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Barcelona local: Peter Guest

gaudi chimney pots and Peter

I fell I love with Barcelona as soon as I arrived in January 1976, shortly after the death of the fascist dictator, Francisco Franco.
Forty years of energetic repression and ice-cold ostracism had left the city grey, dilapidated and dirty. However, easily seen under the grime and neglect there were jewels: the incredibly atmospheric Gothic Quarter, the amazing variations of the modernista buildings in L’Eixample, Gaudi’s flights of fantasy suddenly appearing in the most surprising locations.

Gothic Quarter Barcelona

Then there were the people themselves. Inclusive, embracing, eager to like and be liked, Barcelona’s inhabitants, while more than keen to stand up for the city’s Catalan culture and language, were just as keen for newcomers to join in and take part in the sense of fun and joy they brought to everything.

As time passed and democracy became firmly established, the city took on a new, even more energetic impulse and, while retaining and strengthening all its Catalan roots, Barcelona became fascinatingly modern … and eventually coolly fashionable with the city’s designer bars and clubs attracting people from all over the world.

The city is just the right size, large enough to be a vibrant, cosmopolitan hive of cultural and popular activity and yet small enough for everything to be within easy reach; you can get from the beach to the Tibidabo funfair in half an hour. At the same time, the density of the population means that Barcelona is always bustling with people working, playing or lounging on the terrace of one of the many excellent bars. There’s always a feeling that something’s going on.

And it certainly is.

There are festivals for everyone: poetry, flamenco, jazz, dance, guitar, theatre, the “sky” festival with aeroplanes, kites and gliders… the city’s own local and major fiestas, firework competitions, the list is endless.

The popular Rambla is a kind of permanent festival in itself, an on-going display of the diversity of creatures making up Barcelona. Visitors themselves play a leading role here of course.

Museums contain exhibits ranging from Romanic art to Chocolate, Perfume, Roman streets and hands-on science displays, Amazonian forests complete with anacondas.

Gaudi building, Barcelona

Passeig de Gràcia is among the most expensive shopping real estate in the world; all the leading luxury brands hotly competing to occupy the elegant modernista buildings of Barcelona’s widest street. The Spanish mega fashion brands of Zara and Mango pull thousands of visitors everyday while exclusive fashion designers like Silvia García Presas offer beautiful bespoke and unique designs to the discerning in a quiet street only a few yards away.

Dotted around the city are curious, interesting and exciting specialist shops of all kinds, some of which have been serving their clients for two hundred years and some of which sell second-hand punk clothes and paraphernalia.

Food is an essential part of the Barcelona experience, from Juanito Bayen’s Bar Pinotxo in the Boquería market to Ferrán Adrià’s new tapas and cocktail bar on the Paral.lel. Between these two extremes of Catalan food is an extraordinary range served in venues of all kinds, at all prices and suiting all tastes. Plus, of course, the fusion style cuisines ranging from Nordic-Mediterranean to New Orleans-Vietnamese-Catalan cuisine.

Nighttime diners in Plaza Real, Barcelona

Enjoying the rich nightlife is an art in Barcelona. Because a night out may begin around 8.00pm with pre-dinner drinks, followed by dinner itself then a spot of music before heading to a club at around 3.00 am, pacing oneself is essential.
Venues vary tremendously in offerings and price, from the trendy wine-bar type around el Born or the hip stylish places in Gràcia, to select, up-market clubs by Tibidabo or the noisy (but now smoke-free) bars of the Raval-Ramblas area favoured by younger people.

As this section develops, I‘ll be offering glimpses of some of the curious, interesting and exciting things the visitor can enjoy in Barcelona. I hope you’ll enjoy discovering them as much as I did.
Fins aviat!
Peter

Peter Guest is currently building a website on Barcelona:
www.barcelona-tourist-information.info

You can follow all of Peter's tips here

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