A foodie's guide to Beirut
Siobhan Lismore has just returned from a stay in Beirut where among other pasttimes, she forced her chef friend to take her to some of his city's best restaurants.
And luckily for Been there, she is really bad at keeping secrets. Here are her top five picks for keeping hunger at bay.
Chez Sami
With its long coastline, seafood is also a staple for many Lebanese and there are lots of good seafood restaurants along the many beach resorts, which are open all year. But in Jounieh, Chez Sami offers clean-cut, simple seafood dishes, only offering diners whatever is caught fresh that day. Typical Lebanese mezze is also served up here, so expect to snack on houmous and carrot sticks in lemon while you wait for your entrees.
www.chezsamirestaurant.com
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Centrale
One of Beirut’s most famous restaurants, Centrale, in the downtown district is known not only for it’s innovative architecture – a bombed out building in a beautiful garden with an open top cocktail bar will always raise eyebrows –but also it’s elegant menu and five-storey wine cellar. Food at Centrale is exquisitely crafted, offering classic French dining with a modern twist.
Expect to pay at least $100 a head.
www.centralerestaurant.com
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Al Marj
In the mountainous Faraya district is a completely different type of eatery. Nicknamed ‘eat till you die’ by locals Al Marj serves course after course of delicious Lebanese specialities. Families dominate this restaurant, which is visited mainly on the weekend for the ‘family roast’. Tuck into vegetable mezze to start –tabouleh, houmous, fatoush and salad plates, then comes platters of raw meat, of steak tartar and semi cooked kibi. Grilled meats follow; kofta, chicken, lamb and deep fried chicken wings. Followed by Nifa, a slow braised goats head. Dessert follows with crème caramel, baklava and sweet cheese with honey and fruits.
Cover is around $10 a head.
Hrajel Main Road, Hrajel, Faraya 961 9 720344
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Down Town
In Jounieh, is the popular Downtown restaurant, which specialises in western and middle-eastern fare. Downtown serves pastas, pizzas, steaks and sushi in an elegant setting and is popular with families, young couples and groups of friends. The women’s toilets have a one-way mirror, meaning the women can see into the men’s, through an intricate mesh of muslin curtains.
A meal for four comes to around $200.
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Soto Sushi
It may surprise some to read that sushi is popular in Beirut. Not only popular, but excellently made and delivered at reasonable prices. And in the trendy Gemmayze area is Soto, a sushi restaurant which specialises in making its own unique rolls and Japanese styled cocktails in a funky setting. The sashimi is fresh and the rolls are imaginatively crafted. Popular with locals about to head onto the many bars in the area, people can sit at the bar or in colourful booths.
A meal for two with drinks averages at around $50
Rue Gouraud. 01 573035.
And luckily for Been there, she is really bad at keeping secrets. Here are her top five picks for keeping hunger at bay.
Chez Sami
With its long coastline, seafood is also a staple for many Lebanese and there are lots of good seafood restaurants along the many beach resorts, which are open all year. But in Jounieh, Chez Sami offers clean-cut, simple seafood dishes, only offering diners whatever is caught fresh that day. Typical Lebanese mezze is also served up here, so expect to snack on houmous and carrot sticks in lemon while you wait for your entrees.
www.chezsamirestaurant.com
________________________________________________________________
Centrale
One of Beirut’s most famous restaurants, Centrale, in the downtown district is known not only for it’s innovative architecture – a bombed out building in a beautiful garden with an open top cocktail bar will always raise eyebrows –but also it’s elegant menu and five-storey wine cellar. Food at Centrale is exquisitely crafted, offering classic French dining with a modern twist.
Expect to pay at least $100 a head.
www.centralerestaurant.com
________________________________________________________________
Al Marj
In the mountainous Faraya district is a completely different type of eatery. Nicknamed ‘eat till you die’ by locals Al Marj serves course after course of delicious Lebanese specialities. Families dominate this restaurant, which is visited mainly on the weekend for the ‘family roast’. Tuck into vegetable mezze to start –tabouleh, houmous, fatoush and salad plates, then comes platters of raw meat, of steak tartar and semi cooked kibi. Grilled meats follow; kofta, chicken, lamb and deep fried chicken wings. Followed by Nifa, a slow braised goats head. Dessert follows with crème caramel, baklava and sweet cheese with honey and fruits.
Cover is around $10 a head.
Hrajel Main Road, Hrajel, Faraya 961 9 720344
________________________________________________________________
Down Town
In Jounieh, is the popular Downtown restaurant, which specialises in western and middle-eastern fare. Downtown serves pastas, pizzas, steaks and sushi in an elegant setting and is popular with families, young couples and groups of friends. The women’s toilets have a one-way mirror, meaning the women can see into the men’s, through an intricate mesh of muslin curtains.
A meal for four comes to around $200.
________________________________________________________________
Soto Sushi
It may surprise some to read that sushi is popular in Beirut. Not only popular, but excellently made and delivered at reasonable prices. And in the trendy Gemmayze area is Soto, a sushi restaurant which specialises in making its own unique rolls and Japanese styled cocktails in a funky setting. The sashimi is fresh and the rolls are imaginatively crafted. Popular with locals about to head onto the many bars in the area, people can sit at the bar or in colourful booths.
A meal for two with drinks averages at around $50
Rue Gouraud. 01 573035.