Readers' guide to Istanbul
With one foot in Europe and one in Asia, Istanbul fuses east and west, old and new. Exquisite Ottoman mosques rub shoulders with new art galleries and hotels. And then there's the food, bars, bazaars... Below our readers recommend their favourites
Places to stay
Sebnem Hotel
Posted by tanich
We recently stayed in this hotel on a long weekend visit to Istanbul and thoroughly recommend it. It's clean, tidy, with good amenities, but best of all the people who run the hotel - Tahir and Emu - are wonderfully friendly and helpful and really made our trip special.
sebnemhotel.net
Hotel Angel's Home
Posted by lucyd
Located in the historic Sultanahmet district with a roof terrace overlooking the Blue Mosque, this is a friendly hotel right in the heart of old Istanbul. Rooms are really well equipped with toiletries, dressing gowns and all the extras, and the friendly staff are very helpful. Double rooms start from around €60 in low season.
hotelangelshome.com
Zeki Pasha apartment in Beyoglu
Posted by HanB
We recently rented this homely apartment and had a fantastic time. It was pretty cheap considering the size and location. There are two double rooms and another room with two single beds, kitchen, living room/dining room, bathroom, balcony and all the mod cons.
The views from the apartment look straight across the Golden Horn with the Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque visible in the distance.
The area (Beyoglu) was fantastic! Not very touristy, but still with loads of things to do, see and eat. Only one thing that might be a problem - it gets a bit noisy on Friday and Saturday nights due to the numerous restaurants nearby. Other than that - is excellent in almost every way.
ownersdirect.co.uk/turkey/TK821.htm
Where to eat
Pandeli
Posted by Rafi
This restaurant, open only for lunch, is one of the loveliest in Istanbul. It is situated inside the northern wall of the Spice Bazaar, and is entered via a stone stairway just inside the gate.
Remarkably quiet, decorated with lovely Iznik tiles, Pandeli is famous for its vegetables, and though it is always said that the food is not as good as it was in its fabulous heyday, one can still find subtle evocations of Ottoman cuisine.
Sample the meze, try the hünkar beğendi. A wonderfully civilised place in which to pass part of an afternoon.
Spice bazaar, inside the gate facing the water.
Tarihi Selim Usta Sultanahmet Koftecisi
Posted by mightywease
Situated among the many eateries of Divan Yolu, this restaurant is basic and functional – but what more do you need? The same could be said of the menu which, apart from kofke and kebab offers lentil soup, rice (pilav), green salad, bean salad (piyaz), yoghurt and bread as accompaniments. It's what you might call comfort food of the first degree, unfussy, straightforward and flavoursome.
Sit downstairs and you are right in the middle of things with waiters scooting about taking orders and delivering food from the grill, upstairs was quieter with excellent views over Divan Yolu. Service is friendly and fast and the price is excellent.
12 Divan Yolu. Nearest tram stop is Sultanahmet.
Destiny Restaurant
Posted by Bluetulip
I think it is the best restaurant in Istanbul. Wonderful atmosphere with friendly service. I was very impressed with the menu and excellent quality of the food.
The Destiny Special is a delightful combination of tender beefsteak with a cream and mushroom sauce, served with a cinnamon cabbage in red wine sauce. Definitely worth a visit. Reasonably priced too.
Bereket Mah. Haci Ali Sok. No. 11/A, Galata-Byoglu, Istanbul. Can be found by walking down from Galata Tower or by climbing up the steps by the Oyak Bank near the tramway in Karakoy.
What to do
Rüstem Paşa Camii
Posted by york137
There are plenty of grand mosques to visit in Istanbul thanks to master builder Mimar Siman, but this small jewel of his beats them all in terms of intimacy and decoration.
The tiles are simply sensational, full of stylised tulips, carnations and geometrical shapes. It is located not far from the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge- it's not easy to spot the entrance. The advantage is that few tourists seem to find it, and you may get to look around in glorious silence.
In the alleyways about 100m to the north-west of the Spice Bazaar at the end of Galata Bridge, not to be confused with the much larger Yeni Camii in front of the ferry terminals. There are two entrances, up steps between small shops - neither of them looks like it leads to a mosque, so persist.
Maidens' Tower (Kiz Kulesi)
Posted by yamans
This tower's history goes back to 340BC. It is in the middle of Bosphorus, and has recently been renovated. It has five floors, the top floor being a bar, and you get a free soft drink here which is included in your ticket from the shore. You also get the best scenery of the Bosphorus from this floor. Don't forget you are in between Asia and Europe here. On the ground floor is a very good restaurant, although prices are above average.
kizkulesi.com.tr/en/collection/default.asp
There are frequent boats from Uskudar, Salacak, it takes aroung3 minutes, but you can also take the boat from Ortakoy (though as not frequent as from Uskudar).
The Yerebatan Saray Sarnici
Posted by babstravel
Istanbul is choc full of exciting things to see, but one spot that easily could be missed is the Yerebatan Saray Sarnici; one of the many cisterns the Byzantines built to make sure they had a plentiful supply of water.
It's a vast underground space full of elaborate columns and arches, which are reflected in rippling water. Everything is bathed in coloured light and there is soft soothing music. There's an eerily fascinating atmosphere. You climb the steps and suddenly find yourself in the bustling streets around the Topkapi Palace. It’s a great place to go if the streets above are hot. Cool and peaceful.
yerebatansarnici.com
Sultanahmet Square at the northeastern end of the Hippodrome, just off Divan Yolu.
How to relax
Getting a shave under the Galata Bridge
Posted by Klausy
It's actually harder than it would seem to get a Turkish shave in Istanbul. We asked a waiter who recommended us via letter to his mate who runs a very busy hair salon, under the Galata Bridge.
There is a central internal corridor under the bridge, which all of the outward facing restaurants and bars have entrances on to on the Eminonou side. It's bright green and the staff all wear green and has no other signage. It's extremely cheap too and you get a great pampering shave for about £1!
Galata Bridge, Eminonu side
Şark Çayhane
Posted by Rafi
It's only a simple cafe in the Grand Bazaar, but the tables on the "street" provide a lovely, inexpensive spot to sit and watch the world go by.
You'll find it at a junction just north of the musical instrument section, not far off the goldsellers' street.
Visne Suyu and Vodka Visne
Posted by yabez
My favourite drink in Turkey is Visne Suyu or sour cherry juice. It's so refreshing and tasty. If like me you want to make it a bit more "fun", add some vodka in your juice and enjoy a vodka visne!
Best places to shop
Rustempasha Market
Posted by andreakkk
Head towards Rustempasha mosque, away from the Egyptian Bazaar or Spice Market. You'll find twisty streets full of tiny shops, including many selling wooden implements such as paddles for pide ovens, huge sieves, forks and spoons. The spice shops here are half the price of the Egyptian market, too, and if you're lucky you'll see the hamals (market porters) at work, or find a cubbyhole selling cay (tea) inside one of the old han courtyards.
Around Rustempasha mosque, Eminonu.
Household goods shop-Spice Bazaar
Posted by Explorer456
If you want to buy tea glasses, head for this shop just behind the Spice Bazaar. There's a wide range and, as it isn't a tourist-oriented shop, you can buy them cheaply and individually (thus avoiding the overpriced sets a few metres away in the Bazaar).
Go out of the exit at the junction of the 2 sections of the Spice Bazaar and turn right.
Grand Bazaar
Posted by mightywease
Noisy, busy, easy to get lost in, hard to get out of but always fun.
If you enjoy shopping and bargaining you'll love it. If you find bargaining and being approached by people a little uncomfortable, then the Grand Bazaar is probably not for you. Yes, it's very touristy. There are endless shops selling tea glasses, Turkish coffee cups, belly dancing outfits etc. However you can also buy beautiful jewellery, fine fabrics, good value leather goods and, of course, carpets and kilims.
The shop keepers can be persistent but are always hospitable. Often an invitation into a shop will be accompanied by an offer of apple tea or Turkish coffee. If you don't want to buy anything just politely refuse. If you do, then get set to bargain. Offer about half the asking price, or below, and work from there. Have in your mind what you want to pay and stick to it.
Remember, always be polite. And if you do get exhausted with haggling there are plenty of little cafes to sit down in, have a drink and admire the bargains you've bought.
There are various entry points to the bazaar including Nuruosmaniye Gate, near the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and Beyazit Gate, near the book bazaar and Beyazit Square
General advice and caution
Istanbul - perfect weekend break
Posted by MCrumpton
As a long weekend break I would highly recommend Istanbul. If the stunning mosques and Ottoman architecture don't fascinate you, there is always the Grand Bazaar or spice markets. Ferries run up and down the Bospherous, constantly connecting the Dead Sea with the Sea of Marmara.
The food is exceptional. Whether you'd like to try a real kebab at the top of Istekal where the stall sells over 10,000 per day, or sit in an outdoor restaurant overlooking the sea drinking very quaffable Turkish wine and eating freshly caught fish, the food will never disappoint.
Turks love to dance, and the clubs rival anything in London. In the summer the parties move onto the roof terraces. Locals tend to be warm, friendly and helpful to the point of bending over backwards. I came out here for a weekend earlier last year and now I live here. You can't get a better recommendation than that!
Price of alcohol
Posted by DouglasPaddy
The price of alcohol is very high with an average bottle of Turkish wine costing about 32 lira or £14. The imported vodka, whiskey, wine etc is equally exorbitant in price due to high taxes.
Just a word of warning in case people think Istanbul is like one of the resorts!
Funicular Railway
Posted by raystravels
It costs 1.3 lira (50p) for one journey on the modern funicular between Taksim Square and Kabatas and is much better than taking a taxi. The trams and the ferry costs the same amount and the ferry, crossing from Europe to Asia, is a must.
Buying carpets
Posted by jezo
I've read about this in the travel guides and just saw it in action today: after lots of friendly talk and having come down in price only 25% (remember you MUST haggle, you are respected for this in this part of the world) the seller waited for me to go and get cash . When I got back, he started wrapping the carpet in a tight parcel - only it wasn't the one I chose!
Remember to see your carpet wrapped. Don't forget to haggle, and get some idea what carpets are about. Things are beautiful, but naive buyers are being had ruthlessly.