Every week a reader gets a chance to put a travel question to the Been there community. How does this work?

This week's experts are Imogen Hall, publisher at Lonely Planet
and Cesar Gonzalez of argentinastravel.com:

The dilemma this week:

My wife and I, both recently retired but very active and experienced travellers, are planning a visit to Argentina. We have no connections with the country but simply want to see as much of it as possible.

We don't really want to do the organised group tour, unless we have no other option, because we feel that one does not really experience the country and generally these tours involve hopping on and off buses for a quick photo opportunity, eating unexciting meals in the same hotels and at the end of the trip you are left with a feeling of disappointment.

So we would welcome advice on (a) the feasibility of doing it independently, (b) internal travel/transport, (c) where we should visit, (d) time of year to go, (e) anything to avoid or (f) any general tips.

We are both learning Spanish and have just about enough to get by, if matters do not get too technical.
Tom & Josephine

The experts say:

Imogen Hall at Lonely Planet

Independent travel is easy in Argentina. Inexpensive and frequent buses radiate out from Buenos Aires, and for longer journeys comfy cama buses, a bit like a business class bus need only be booked a day or so in advance meaning you can generally be flexible with arrangements.

If you have three weeks you can see a lot of the country, but it’s a big place so break up cross-country journeys. To see the most of the country you’re best off taking a couple of flights. If flying to Argentina with Aerolineas Argentinas, the national carrier, you can get reduced-price domestic flights on them and sister airline Austral with the Visit Argentina airpass. LAN Argentina also have a good domestic network.

Take things one area at a time. Buenos Aires gets better the longer you stay, but you’ll pass through it on your travels, so perhaps two days at each end of the trip is sufficient when planning a rough itinerary.

Two weeks is a good length of time to take travelling down from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, Patagonia, via the Valdes Peninsula or the mountain resort of Bariloche. Then take a few day to seeing the Moreno Glacier and possibly popping over the border into Chile to explore the Torres del Paine National Park.

The Andean north-west of the country, including the beautiful city of Salta and a visit to the dramatic Iguazu Falls will take another week. And that’s without seeing the colonial city of Cordoba, Mendoza and the surrounding winelands and considered taking a ferry from Buenos Aires to Uruguay’s coastal towns.

October, November and February and March offer the best combination of good weather and fewer crowds, but you should always book ahead for accommodation in Buenos Aires.

Bear in mind also that the whale watching season at the Valdes Peninsula runs only from June to December. The weather can be challenging in Patagonia any time of year, and while the Chilean side is much wetter you should come prepared for the worst.

Journey Latin America are experts on Argentina.


Cesar Gonzalez of argentinastravel.com:

You’ve picked an excellent way to travel around Argentina. Leisure travel to the country has boomed over the last five years, making planning an independent trip much easier to organize. Here are the answers to your questions, section by section.

(a) You can definitely plan your trip independently. While there are excellent tours and travel agents that don’t subject you to cattle-like conditions, the excitement and adventure of planning your own trip can’t be overstated. And with so many resources available today both in print and on the web, the task is much easier. I would start with a good print guide and use the web to get more specific and up-to-date information on the attractions that interest you most.

(b) Traveling within Argentina is relatively simple if you’re prepared. There are flights from Buenos Aires to all major cities and tourist attractions, although they can get expensive. For the more budget-conscious, there is a top-of-the line bus system which covers the whole country. We’re talking about fully reclining seats, air-conditioning, movies, and waiter-service here. The distances can be long, but an overnight trip is definitely comfortable, saves you a night of hotel, and puts you at your destination in the morning, ready to go. To book internal travel, you’ll either have to call the airline (usually Aerolineas Argentinas) or bus lines (there are dozens) and use that Spanish you’ve been brushing up on, or get them from a travel agent. You can usually get away with booking your bus travel just a day or two in advance. argentinastravel.com/basics/get-there

(c) When planning a trip to Argentina, I always advocate choosing either going North or going South, making sure to save a decent amount of time for Buenos Aires. In the North, you have the amazing Iguazu Falls, the wine country of Mendoza, and the friendly, slower pace of Salta and Tucuman. In the South you have the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno glacier, the pristine Lake District, and the wildlife adventure of Puerto Madryn (go in September and October to see whales and penguins). In Buenos Aires, you’ll want a good 3-7 days to take in the sights, the history, and the culture. argentinastravel.com/destinations/top-10-destinations

(d) Since it’s the Southern Hemisphere, the seasons are reversed. Unless you’re skiing, you’ll want to go in the spring, summer, or autumn. This translates to roughly to traveling between September and February. If you go South, take advantage of mid-summer when the days will be long and the temperatures still pleasant. If you go North, avoid mid-summer and go in Spring or Fall instead.
argentinastravel.com/basics/weather

(e) In terms of the traveling, you’ll want to avoid trying to see too much in the same trip. Argentina is a large country, and hopping around will eat up most of your time in transit. In terms of destinations to avoid, I can’t think of even one =)

(f) As a general rule, stay safe by dressing down and not wearing jewelry. If you can avoid carrying tourist-packs and large cameras, all the better. The Argentine cities are generally safe, but check with a concierge or a local before walking around a random neighborhood at night. And while in Argentina, you can’t help but try the delicious asado and catch a good tango show while in Buenos Aires. argentinastravel.com/activities/tango/tango-shows

Above all, enjoy your trip!

Our readers say:

Argentina holds some of my best travelling memories, it's a wonderful country. I went with my mum, and we organised the trip through a travel agent, but I did most of the research myself, so it was really just the internal flights that they booked.

Firstly, it's a huge country, so unless you want to stick to one part, say Buenos Aires and the Estancias of the surrounding area, you will probably need to be taking internal flights, unless you intend to be there for plenty of time and want the adventure of car hire/public transport.

Our focus was horse-riding, because Argentina has fantastic opportunities for this, but it's a country that caters for many different interests, especially if you're into the outdoors.

We had just shy of two weeks, so did two nights in Buenos Aires, four nights in the Lake District, four nights in El Calafate and two nights in Buenos Aires before returning home.

Buenos Aires is a must. Most people fly here anyway, but it is a superb city. It's wonderfully old-fashioned, it feels like a European city from decades ago, with a drop of Latin American magic. We stayed in Palermo, a district of Buenos Aires, very leafy with some lovely small boutique hotels. It is, I think, the more expensive, chic part of the city, but has fabulous restaurants. Visit La Bocca for its remarkable colour and San Telmo market and Bar Sur for intimate tango. People recommend the big tango/dinner shows, the tango is amazing, but it feels tackier and much more touristy. We stayed in the Costa Petit hotel, which is small, beautiful, not really hot on service but a very nice place to stay with a small pool, which was lovely. But in Palermo there are plenty of lovely places to stay.

The Lake District is a dream for walkers, horse-riders and fishers. It's on the border with Chile and has wonderful scenery. We stayed in Huechahue, which is more for horse-riders, so may not be what you're looking for. But the area is beautiful and, if I remember rightly, only an hour or so flight from BA. We hired a car and drove the famous Seven Lakes Route - not exactly tarmac all the way - but a beautiful driving route, and the car hire company didn't seem to mind us taking their Renault that way.

Then we dropped far south and flew from Bariloche (Lake District) to El Calafate. If you're going to Argentina, I'd recommend making the effort to get to the south. It is a fascinating and beautiful area, and home to a number of major glaciers. Once you have accommodation, it's easy to organise day trips to the glaciers, and trips to the old Estancias in Patagonia. The most visited glaciers are Perito Merino and Upsala - both are just unforgettable, and you are able to actually walk onto the glacier, as well as see them from boat trips. Also visit Estancia Cristina which has a wonderful history to explore. We stayed in Eolo lodge - expensive, but just an astonishing position. And the restaurant is out of this world.

We went in March when it was hot in BA, but cooler as we got into the south (i.e. not lying in the sun weather!). Most people seemed to recommend February-April as the best time of year.

I think you could arrange it independently, then you can book through Aerolineas. Most of the big car hire companies cover Argentina, where you can pick up a car in one destination and drop it in another. The train network is limited, but the buses are good quality and go long distances. Try omnilineas.com for bus routes. You can book these from the UK.

You will be spoilt for choice for hotels and Estancias. I'd recommend trying to find old fashioned Estancias instead of the newer hotels, you're much more likely to feel in the spirit of things. The gauchos are not a cheap tourist attraction, but very much a way of life - most of the bigger Estancias are staffed by local gauchos, and if you're with a family you're much more likely to get a taste of the real thing. Huechahue was ideal for this, but if you're not interested in horses it may not appeal.

It takes a lot of research and time to organise a trip, but it's always worth it. I always go to i-escape.com for good hotel advice, skyscanner.net for flight prices, and of course the Guardian for articles.

There is also a new company called Globalista who for a fee can research a bespoke trip for you - they also have a report on the Argentine Lake District. It all depends on length of time and your interests, but if its anything to do with the outdoors you'll find plenty to do!
And don't worry about the Spanish, I knew virtually nothing, but with a few key words was absolutely fine. Even when it came to rounding up wild horses with a gaucho who spoke no English So I don't think you have any worries there.

I can't think of anything else right now, but I hope that helps, and rest assured that you will have a fantastic trip, I am now feeling horribly jealous.
Best of luck,
Philippa Allen
London

You will have no problem touring Argentina; your only dilemma will be choosing where to go as the country is so vast with so many wonderful places to visit.

Travel is easy and best done by bus which is cheap and efficient (it's like travelling business class on a plane ) with a lot of companies offering services.

Where to go will depend on how long you intend to spend in the country, but I would certainly recommend visiting Buenos Aires, Mendoza, Bariloche and Salta which will give you a very good overview of the country and the people.

My favourite time to visit is November, before the big holiday season there begins.
Regards
Richard


My husband and I spent a month or so in Argentina as part of a year away in 2004. We are in our early 30s but, again, dislike the organised tour thing so did a completely independent trip. We have also visited several other times as we have family in Argentina.

So, in answer to your questions:
a) Travelling independently is very feasible, especially with a splattering of Spanish.

b) Internal travel: we had plenty of time so travelled everywhere using the excellent bus network. We would recommend this if you have the time - there are fantastically comfortable 'sleeper' buses which are very good value. Journeys are long but you will pass through interesting scenery and stop at off-the-beaten track places to pick people up so you get a chance to see more of the 'real' Argentina (and stretch your legs!). If you have less time, there are plenty of internal flights.

c) Some places we would recommend to visit other than Buenos Aires are:
- Iquazu falls in the far north
- Salta and the Quebradas in the north west; the ancient ruins of the city of Quilmes are near Cafayate and worth a visit
- Estancias in Provincia Buenos Aires - the town of San Antonio de Areco is near Bs As and is a very traditional Gaucho town, worth a visit. You can also stay on an Estancia and go horse riding
- Mendoza if you are interested in wine (you can just email a winery to arrange a visit and then take a taxi from Mendoza)
- Barriloche - a very pretty town with some good hiking nearby. If you have time, book journey from here south on the Ruta 40 which is mostly 'ripio' (unmade) and goes through some very typical patagonian landscape with guanacos, rheas and other wildlife. There are Estancias too which you can stop at. The journey takes a couple of days to reach the glacier region
- El Chalten and Fitzroy park in Patagonia which are beautiful with some amazing opportunities to trek in stunning scenery with glaciers, jagged mountains and streams running down with freshly thawed snow from the Andes!
- Perrito Moreno and El Calafate - if you are down this way, you must see this amazing huge glacier.

d) The best times to go are between the end of October and May, depending on how hot you like the weather to be

e) Avoid: don't mention the malvinas!! Be extra cautious in cities with the usual pick-pocket tricks but also be vigilant elsewhere for dodgy taxi drivers and other scams. However, tourists on the whole seem to be fine and it seems to be the locals who are more affected by the high levels of crime.

f) General tips:
It's a wonderful country, but huge so don't under-estimate the time it will take to see things.
Try; the wine (malbecs are excellent), beef, 'dulce de leche (if you have a sweet tooth), 'alfajores' (best ones are made by 'Havanna' - they are delicious!) and also the parilla restaurants where the kitchen is just a big BBQ

Have fun! I hope this is useful
Regards
Sarah Long


I live in Argentine. I can help you about places to visit.
[Been there has got the email address]
Kind Regards
Ruben O. Colombian


I have recently had my parents (aged 67 and 69) to stay in Argentina where I have been living for seven years. They are retired and do not like going with crowds or buses, so in spite of the fact that I offer wine tours in Latin America, I thought I could help answer your questions.

What to do and see: Argentina is simply huge and you haven't mentioned what sort of budget you are on. Internal flights are not cheap nor exorbitant. Unfortunately all originate and connect in Buenos Aires at the domestic Airport, Areoparque. If you are in the
north-east visiting the Iguazu Water falls, you would have to get a flight back to BA to visit the north-west Salta for example. The Lan Argentina part of the Lan Chile Group have less slots but are a far better carrier in terms of efficiency and service.

Long distance buses are extremely comfortable if you stick to the semi cama (cama means bed). If you choose full cama, however, the costs are not vastly different from air travel. It really depends on your time schedule/restrictions. It can be lovely to see the country if you get your travel agent to reserve you the seats on the top floor at the front. But do remember travelling from Buenos Aires is flat and quiet dull for the first 500 kilometres whichever direction you go.

Renting a car in Buenos Aires is an absolute no. There are very few rules obeyed and it takes a while to feel comfortable. You can rent a car once you are out in the Provinces, but always be attentive and at night beware cars and lorries without lights, insurance, brakes etc.!

The highlights of Argentina in no particular order are obviously Buenos Aires; an enormous city with a wonderful buzz and incredibly rich cultural life. Avoid staying in San Telmo and stick to Recoleta or Palermo for a hotel, You can always visit, La Boca and San Telmo. Avoid touristy tango shows. Doing a little research of where to go will go a long way for you.

For restaurants there is no better guide than guiaoleo.com.ar. It is in English too. Beef is really not the only thing on offer here.

You should also think about seeing Iguazu Falls, Salta Region, Mendoza, the glacier in Cafayate, Tierra Del Fuego Namely Ushuia. There is Penninsula Valdes which has incredible wildlife. The Lake regions of Bariloche. Don't stay in Bariloche, get
out to Villa La Angustura (beautiful). The are some wonderful provinces such as San Luis, See Merlot and Trapiche. San Juan. Incredible places like the Valley of the Moon, Talampaya National Park in La Rioja and Cordoba. The only province to avoid is Santiago
De Estero (very poor and nothing of interest).

Argentina is not the bargain it was five years ago. Inflation has made it much more expensive than before, but it is still cheaper than anywhere in Europe, especially once you are out of the urban areas.

There is also a lot of hype about staying at an Estancia, These are just country houses. They can be good for a couple of days to get away, but generally they are not going to give you much insight into the surrounding countryside or culture and generally are quite touristic.

Security in Buenos Aires is much like any major city, but with economic problems mounting don't have anything with you that you would never want to lose. Once you are out of Buenos Aires, lose your inhibitions and people are incredible friendly and will always do their best to help you. They are very proud of the country, Remember internal travel for them is expensive, so during your stay you will probably get to see more of their country than they will in their lifetime.

If you have a month or longer you may get to see some of the highlights, but its a place to relax and enjoy and not try to do too much on a daily basis.

Tourists are generally treated well in Argentina and it is only the jaded ex-pats who complain about being ripped of in Buenos Aires.

Due to the vastness of Argentina there are many climates at the same time. Argentina is best avoided in January and early February due to the heat and everyone taking their summer holidays. March and April plus October and November are the best times to visit.
Happy travelling,
Tim Robertson


As someone of a similar age and who shares a loathing of organised tours, I would say just do your own thing. Even Iguazu can be done without any hassle - just stand aside while the hoards of tourists get shepherded by, then enjoy the wonder of it at your own pace.

Argentina is far from scary. Even in Buenos Aires you can walk safely, if consciously, at night in most areas. Buses in Argentina are superb - the best have seats that fold flat (full cama), serve you meals, up-to-date films and even a glass of champagne or whisky to see you off to the land of nod as you travel across this vast country.

In fact, as much as I love parts of Argentina, it's a bit too tame for me, too much like Europe - so if you have the time, pop across the border into Bolivia where you will experience the most authentic country in south america.
June


I live in Argentina and will be glad to help with any queries and act as a point of contact when you're here if you like. Please feel free to keep my email address (Been There has the contact details) and for you to drop me a line if you need some advice or help. I know it's often reassuring to "know" someone in a country you are visiting for the first time, even if you never use the email address.

Anyway: Argentina is great, first thing. Independent travel is very feasible if you're mobile (as you are) and don't mind long bus journeys. Car hire is expensive, but worth looking into for at least some of your journey because, obviously, there's nothing like it. It's frustrating being on a bus and watching all that phenomenal scenery stream by. Quality of bus companies varies. Crucero del Norte / Sur are good, Via Bariloche also very comfy. Others too, and the additional cost is worth it for the 12-hour + journeys. Don't drive in Buenos Aires. Trains are almost non-existent.

In BsAs, follow a good guide book like the Lonely Planet (horrible condescending traveller sentiment, but seldom lets you down). Be sure to check out Recoleta, Plaza Italia, Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, Cabildo, a ride on the Linea A on the subway. Walk around the area of the embassies, stroll along Av Sta Fe, check out a movie, don't bother with a tango show (you'll see tango buskers and if you ask around you may find a Milonga for free, but most folks will regrettably want to fleece the gringos in the capital for stuff like dat :(

Watch your wallets on the subway and be SUPER careful on buses. Don't take photos on public transport and only take "Radio Cabs" with phone numbers advertised on the roof, not that unmarked death trap Juancito has borrowed from his uncle Albert so he can make a few bob for the weekend. There's no need to tip, the price on the meter is ALWAYS in pesos, so don't let Juancito tell you its dollars or, worse still, Euros (believe me, I've heard tell). I'd get local currency for most transactions as quickly as possible.

I recommend taking the odd bus or two around the city if you feel confident because it's one hell of a ride. People will also offer to sell you weird stuff.

Outside BsAs, I mostly know the south, i.e. Patagonia. All I can say is: "Go to Patagonia". Do everything the guidebook says to do in Patagonia. Come for three months and then come back and visit the north. The south is better set up, there are more places to stay and the bus routes are more complete.

Bariloche (essential but busy - can't not go though). There's an excursion to Cascadas Frias (I think it's called) which is breath-taking but not your cup of tea if you hate crowds - it brought out the homicidal maniac in me. Around Bariloche there's the circuito chico and the grande. Check out the Mounaineers' Cemetery if you can find it - inspiring. You can bike round the circuito chico, I think, to avoid a coach.

Visit San Martin de Los Andes and the essential Camino de los Siete Lagos to Villa la Angostura (always rains when I go there). In Angostura go to the peninsula - take the boat out (book ahead) and walk back - fabulous. Hug trees while you're there and see the estancia where Che stayed. It's quite cool just to wander around La Angostura.

I'd put Ushuaia on anyone's compulsory list, therefore you should come in summer (Nov - Feb etc.). Tierra del Fuego is quite simply phenomenal. There was a home-stay listed in the LP as Familia Something. Very nice people, very comfy home. Canal Beagle, el Foro, seals, the end of the world. Mmmmmmmmmm.

Also, if you come in November, you're in time to see the whales at Peninsula Valdes. Welsh Chubœt is great, and generally less crowded than other parts. Madryn, Trelew, Esquel, Gaiman, Trevelin. Have tea at Nain Maggie's. Is it Nain Maggie's? Pretty sure. Ask around.

You can expect to pay double what residence pay. In reality, we're paying half, ha ha, but it will no doubt gall you. Sorry. If you go to El Calafate to see the glaciers (highly recommend the trek on Perito Moreno with the scotch on the rocks at the end, yum yum) you'll feel like you've been held up at knife point by Dick Turpin. Again, if you detest crowds, Calafate is not for you, but ooh... Perito Moreno. El Chalten might be more your thing - lots of trekking and fewer mod cons (at least when I was there).

I'm going to stop now. Oh, before I do, good on you for Spanish lessons, but unless your teacher is from here, I strongly recommend you rent any and every Argentinian DVD you can get your hands on before you come, and watch them with Spanish subtitles, otherwise you're in for a hell of a shock.

Good luck, and have a great trip. Sorry for crapping on so long.
Nick


I go to Argentina every year, being married to an Argentine man. If at all possible, go before Christmas. After New Year, Argentines have three months of holidays and all is crowded.

Transportation is totally reliable (a friend of mine called it the Switzerland of South America), you can fly or take buses with totally reclinable seats, four drivers (so they can drive through non-stop) and a business class service on board.

It's a big country, so decide what you want to do. Buenos Aires is huge, but very, very beautiful. I have been to Mendoza and the Andes which was amazing, as well as to the upper part of Patagonia (at the Lake Nahuiapl, it's a nature park), at a small place called Villa la Angostura, which was also amazing.

More towards the south it really gets coldish, and then travelling in Patagonia, in my opinion, is all about having time and experiencing the emptiness, not plane-hopping from attraction to attraction.

The Iguazu falls in the north-east are larger than the Niagara, but then it's tropical and very, very hot.

The north-west must also be amazing, very dry so more agreeable, and has some of the oldest Spanish colonial towns (as Argentina was conquered by the Spaniards from the direction of Peru and Bolivia, and not from the Atlantic).

Anyway, my simple suggestion is get a good travel guide (i.e. book) and enjoy!
Susanne

Oooh, lucky you!!
Two years ago we went for a three week holiday - the best holiday we have
ever had...

At the time the flights to Santiago de Chile were much cheaper (we went in October) and looked at flying to Chile and then moving westwards. What a good idea - we got a bus from Santiago de Chile to Mendoza in Argentina - this involves a breathtaking trip through the Andes in spring. The buses in Argentina are better than most flights you could take. For longer journeys spend a bit extra and you get a totally reclinable seat on the top deck. You get a hot meal, pillows and blankets and we managed to sleep pretty well for many of the trips. Waking up at the crack of dawn, deep in beautiful Argentina was amazing every time.

The youth hostels we stayed in were great - clean, friendly and central. I must admit I found the Lonely Planet indispensable and we used it to find most of our accommodation.

We both speak Spanish, so it's hard to remember how much English people spoke, although I do remember hearing a lot of English in the hostels, both from staff and residents.

Our travel took in the Valle de la Luna (San Juan) and we stayed in a great little hostel (the cheapest one in the Lonely Planet, I remember) where we met other people and arranged to visit the Valley of the Moon as a group.

We went on to Cordoba, Sierra de las Quijadas, the Jesuit Missions region further north, Iguazu Falls, overnight bus to Buenos Aires and then flew back to Santiago for our flight home.

Oh, I have so many good things to say about Argentina but not enough time.
Hope this helps...
Helena O'Hare

My wife and I (still quite a bit from retirement) spent some six months in total, travelling around Argentina in 2006. Absolutely no need to jump on the tour bus circuit - this country is well-equipped for the independent traveller, and not too expensive either.

Beyond the obvious Buenos Aires experience - a very "easy" city for the novice (cheap taxis, underground system, etc.), there is much more to see.

We flew down to Peninsula Valdes on Aerolineas, the national airline (quicker than the bus, but notoriously unreliable) and hired a car to explore the peninsula - mile after mile of Patagonian scrubland. The only issue was the dirt roads for much of the peninsula (you'll find out why the hire companies charge extra for 'roll the car' insurance). We didn't get to see the killer whales eat the seals off the beach on this occasion, but the trip was wonderful - and we had our first penguin experience at Punta Tombo.

Way further south is Ushuaia - the end of the world. A very 'weird' town, but worth a visit for the weirdness. Full of Antarctic tourists (see if you can get a last minute deal from the travel agencies there) and surrounded by the glorious scenery of the Beagle Channel. Great for walks, but don't spend more than a week there.

You can take the bus most anywhere in Argentina - and it is a very pleasurable experience (don't think National Express). Modern, well-equipped buses, and huge leather, full-reclining seats for a small amount extra ("super cama / coche cama" is what to ask for); hot food and wine at your seat, too! You need the comfort as the journeys are often 18 hours or more.

Bariloche is a ski resort in season, and a pretty tourist town for the rest of the year. Again - great scenery as the Andes start in earnest nearby.

Further north, Salta sees a change in the culture - markedly more 'Andean' - the food, the people, the scenery. A great place to hire a car and explore Cafayate and Cachi nearby - allow 3/4 days. Probably no need to book accommodation ahead. Spectacular landscape (cacti, lunar rock formations, desert, ghost towns, you name it). Mostly very empty roads, too.

There's much more than this, but really, just go for it!
Luke

My boyfriend and I took a self-guided two week trip to Argentina last September and had a great, hassle-free time. If you are experience travellers, I'd say there is absolutely no need for a guided tour. We didn't speak more than about four words of Spanish between us and got along just fine, so if you're learning Spanish you'll have an even easier time.

My biggest tip is that Argentina is huge and most flights are routed through Buenos Aires, so if you're flying you need to factor in plenty of time for transfers. If you're driving, the distances are vast. Don't try to cover more than 500km in a single day. We had only two weeks and felt we barely scratched the surface. Hopefully you'll have lots more time to properly explore what is a enormous and varied country.

Like you, we wanted something off the beaten track. We particularly enjoyed:

Peninsula Valdes. Fly into Trelew, hire a car, take the three hour drive north-east (some of which is gravel) out to the Peninsula. It's full of land and sea-based animals and has a spooky, almost post-apocalyptic feel to it. If you're there are the right time of year (Jan?), you can even see orcas.

Punta Tombo. One of the world's biggest penguin colonies. A two-hour drive south of Trelew. Well set up for visitors and has penguins as far as the eye can see.

Mendoza. We stayed outside the city at a wine lodge, which was very relaxing. The tourist industry in Mendoza is well developed and you'll be able to arrange hiking, white water rafting, cycling, etc. easily using local providers when you arrive in town.

If you don't want the usual touristy crowds I would recommend avoiding:

Iguazu Fall. Yes, it's one of the world's most spectacular waterfalls, but there are literally people everywhere. We took to referring to it as the Disneyland of the south.

Downtown Buenos Aires. BA has a wonderful European charm, just like the tourist brochures tell you, but it's also jammed with people and rather smoggy. Instead, we stayed in Palermo Soho, which is full of tiny, family owned B&Bs and has a delightful village feel. Also well supplied for cafes and restaurants.
Happy travelling!
Rebecca O'Dwyer

I spent a month in the north of Argentina earlier this year. I travelled independently and met a lot of other people doing the same (but I met nobody on organised tours - often little time to as they were racing against time to get back to the coach!). I would say Argentina is easily discovered independently and that's the best way to do it. There may be some remote areas where a small tour is the easiest, or only real viable, option, but you will find out which these are, and what the best deal is (without agents fees), once you get there.

Coaches in Argentina are the best I've experiences in the world - cheap, comfortable, with decent films (dubbed in Spanish) and food. A good website to plan coach travel is plataforma10.com. This isn't always completely reliable (inconsistent and sometimes doesn't show any/all options) but can indicate the companies and the range of prices on offer for any particular journey (prices can range hugely and we always found the suspiciously cheap journeys to be fine).

Argentina is generally safe (although you have to be careful with what you do and what you take - like in any city or place you're unfamiliar with), developed, and well established on the traveller map (so you can expect to meet other independent travellers from all over the world in all but the most remote of destinations).

Speaking Spanish will help a lot, but I met a lot of people who got by fine with very little Spanish knowledge and a lot of smiling and good will. If you have the time it may be worthwhile starting your trip with a language course in Argentina - the prices will be better than what you'll pay in the UK and you'll get an early chance to discover the different pronunciation in most parts of the country (compared to Spanish from Spain that you'll most likely learn in the UK) and to meet some Argentinian people.

You don't have to leave the UK with a completely developed plan (that you'll probably change when you're in Argentina) but just some of the key things you want to do and an idea of what you can squeeze into your available budget and time. You're going to meet a lot of people when you're there who will give you all kinds of insights into what's worth doing and the best way to do it (without paying an agent).
Enjoy.
Nathan

I spent over two months in Argentina from March to May last year and had a brilliant time there. So, to answer the questions....

(a) Without doubt anyone can travel independently. It is by no means a developing country so it is more travelling in Spain than Senegal. The main issue would be the language as English is not widely spoken in many places. You should also be aware that the Spanish in South America is slightly different than Spain so it might be useful to bear in mind that not all words will be the same.

(b) The are vary few trains in Argentina, but the network of coaches is vast and reliable, covering a range of budgets on the more popular routes. It is only in the south (i.e. Patagonia) where travel is not so straight forward, but a bit of forward planning is all it requires and the places you can go down there are among my favourites in the world. Generally buses/coaches are very affordable, clean and on time.

(c) Patagonia is a fantastic place if you are into outdoor activities. You should also consider visiting the Chilean side of Patagonia (Torres del Paine national park, La Carraterra Austral). Buenos Aires is a great city. The North west feels more like Bolivia and has some good natural attractions as well as historical sites. Mendoza is the wine capital and a nice city in its own right. Iguazu Falls in the North East are incredible. Every corner of the country is different but has something to offer which is why it is so good travelling there.

(d) You should go to Patagonia between October and April (their summer). I went in April and the Autumn colours in Torres Del Paine, Parque national los Glaciares (El Chalten) and Around Bariloche were beautiful. Weather there is unpredictable all year though so you have to be lucky!

(e) Can't think of anything off the top....

(f) Even the cheapest wine is usually good, so don't fret about buying it! More expensive wines (e.g. 2/3 quid a bottle!) are very good.
David

Well I think I can help as I'm Argentinian and am going back there this Friday after finishing my MA at Warwick.

You can do what you're planning, though you need loads of patience as things don't always work as you'd expect.

I live in the Patagonian region, which is a must on your tour, together with Buenos Aires, the Iguazu Fall and north-west Argentina. You can fly, but the problem is that you always need to fly from Buenos Aires as there are no domestic flights from NW to the Falls (which is terrible, indeed). People have been SO nice here that I feel I must pay forward. Feel free to contact me if you need a hand with your trip as regards hotel bookings, places and other issues (Been there has got the contact details).
Dario


Well, definitely I have been there. Actually I was born there.

a) I think it is possible for both of you to do an independent trip to Argentina, especially considering that you are learning some Spanish. People in Buenos Aires and other main cities (Rosario, Cordoba, Mendoza may speak (some) English, and also you will be able to communicate in English in the main National Parks (Perito Moreno Glacier, Iguazu Falls, etc.). However the more you go "independent" the more you tend to travel to small towns and places were you find folks who don't speak English. So Spanish will definitely help.

b) Remember that Argentina is a long, long country (4000km from Tierra del Fuego to the Northern border with Bolivia). So depending on how long you will be there and how many places you want to visit you may need to travel internally by plane. For example, if you want to visit Bs. As., Iguazu Falls, and Perito Moreno Glacier in, say, three weeks, you may want to travel by plane (there are several airlines which cover those routes and others).

If you have more time and/or you don't plan to visit many places that far away from each other then you may not need to take planes and can travel by bus. There are good comfy bus services pretty much to every place in Argentina. Keep in mind that from B.A. to Perito Moreno may take more than one day! Same if you travel to Iguazu Falls or the Northwest.

I don't recommend renting cars in B.A. You don't need them there. You may want to rent a car if you go to some far away place like Patagonia and plan to stay there for a few days. But again, rent the car once there, I don't recommend to travel from B.A. to, say, Patagonia or Iguazu by car!

c) Where to visit? Well, this is too open a question to answer. Tell me your interests first. You like cities? you like history? you like museums? you like outdoors? you like national parks? You got everything down there. The constrain will be rather money/time. Below there is a very simplified (stereotype) brief of some characteristic areas:

Buenos Aires: big city, arrival point, museums, restaurants, shopping, football, and other interesting stuff.

The Pampas: all around B.A. Estancias, barbecues, horses, quite places to visit.

Cordoba: the so called Mediterranean province, nice sierras, good combination of tourism and history. First university of Argentina in Cordoba City.

Mendoza (Cuyo region in general): this is the wine country of Argentina per excellence (not the only one though). Also good sky resorts in winter (e.g. Las Lenas, etc.). The glorious Andes are there (Aconcagua the highest mountain in the world outside Himalayas). Climbing and trekking very possible.

North-west: Jujuy, Salta, the most native-American part of Argentina, nice old Spanish colonial stuff, a new tourism industry is growing there with based on outdoor places. Visit Quebrada de Huahuaca, Tilcara, the 7 colour mountains, remains of the Inca Empire. In Salta province you got good wines too. More of the Andes here too.

Patagonia: well, a lot here. on the west part the mountains and several great national parks: Perito Moreno, Alerces, etc. Tierra del Fuego and Usuhaia are worth visiting (now is snowing like crazy in Usuhaia, the southernmost city in the world). On the eastern side you have the Atlantic ocean. If you like orcas, whales and penguins this is the place to go (in particular Peninsula Valdes). There are seasons of the year where the orcas and whales arrive though, usually September.

North-east: Mesopotamia region. The jewel here is Iguazu Falls National Park, in the border with Brazil. The place where the movie "The Mission" with Robert DeNiro and Jeremy Irons was filmed. A lot of history with Jesuit missions ruins in the midst of a luxurious rainforest.

d) Time of the year: Depends on the place. See point above. B.A. is OK all year around, though can be rather hot in summer (December to March). If you want to ski then go in winter (June-August). The whale season in Patagonia is usually in September.

e) Avoid looking like a tourist in B.A. to decrease chances of being pick pocketed That is, don't show off big cameras walking down the street. Don't go to some neighbours in B.A. at night.

f) If you make the effort to learn some Spanish, it will pay off.

Hope it helps. Please, feel free to contact me.
Octavio


Not an OAP, nor particularly adventurous on the whole, I had a wizard time when I went to Argentina about 10 years ago.

The one thing I would recommend is to take the bus from Mendoza over the Andes to Santiago. It is not a ludicrously long journey, but the views are utterly spectacular, and the descent down into Chile down about 50 hairpins on a vertiginous cliff is beyond description!

And as for getting out at the top for passport stuff and grabbing an empanade to eat. Well. We wandered away from the coach for a bit, and being that high up was something else. (I think it is about 3200m/10,500')
Regards
Richard

P.S. Finished a two-litre bottle of water at the top, screwed the top back on and forgot about it as I started another one. When we drove into Santiago I was getting my stuff together and noticed the bottle I had closed at the top was crushed utterly flat by the air pressure back down closer to sea level. Seriously thin air up there!
Richard Rowe


Its easy to travel around Argentina, as long as you have a reasonable amount of time, as some of the bus journeys are very long. Flying is also an option. LAN are excellent and if you book a LANPASS from the UK then you can get cheap, flexible flights for all of South America.

Although there are a huge number of bus companies, they generally stick to certain areas. Go to the bus station the day before you want to travel and walk around, looking at the different companies. In Retiro - Buenos Aires' station - they are clustered by region. Go for the more expensive looking booths - they are not much more expensive in reality and often come with meals, drink and sometimes stewardess service. The buses are generally excellent and the bus stations fairly clear - you can also plan some journeys from the UK by looking at omnilineas.com for bus journeys from BA. The larger companies' websites often have timetables and route planners too.

We went to the Esteros del Ibera in the north-east of the country. It took a while to get there - we took a bus to Corrientes (very oppressively hot in summer, also the setting for Graham Greene's The Honorary Consul) and then a bus to Mercedes. From where we were picked up by a lodge based in the Esteros. This all took two days in total, but it was worth it.

The Esteros have very few tourists – building work is very limited and only the current lodges are allowed to take tourists. We got an all-in package, including three days of ranger guided tours, kayaking and on launches, throughout this beautiful wetland. The only other tourists we saw were Argentinian; it was fantastic. People in Corrientes were surprised and pleased to see Europeans, and it felt very different to the gringo trail.

We stayed in Palermo Viejo in Buenos Aires, where there are dozens of fantastic restaurants. Walking around, there were lots of tourists queuing up and waiting for tables at La Cabrera, a well known tourist haunt, when a couple of blocks away superb restaurants such as Don Julio, Miranda and Standard all served fantastic food.

As long as you can speak some Spanish you should be OK. Everyone was friendly and open on our trip, and although it took a little longer to get everywhere on our own compared to a tour, it was easy and reasonably priced.

Enjoy it!
Adam Morris


I have travelled in Argentina and the buses are amazing, you can go absolutely anywhere in them and they are extremely comfortable.
Vivienne Benson


I visited Argentina three years ago without any organised tour and on somewhat of a shoestring budget, yet was still able to have a great time. Me and two friends went for three weeks and travelled as much as we could, the highlights being Buenos Aires, Bariloche and Puerto Madryn.

The country itself is massive, and there's no real train network to speak of, so in for long trips its flights or coaches. Being students, flying wasn't an option for us, so we took coaches. If you plan on taking a coach there's a few things you should consider. Firstly, book the ejecutivo first class seats. Journeys can last over 24 hours and you'll need sleep, so having fully reclinable seats is a must. Secondly, pack some sort of food. Although the companies provide a meal, it's usually microwaved, unpalatable and unlikely to keep you going for the duration of the trip. Finally don't be afraid to talk to people. Everybody is incredibly friendly, probably due to some from 'siege mentality', and are more often than not locals of the place your travelling to who can tell you local treats not found in guide books. Despite being long, these journeys can be a lot of fun, with bingo games for bottles of wine and films (in English with Spanish subtitles) helping to pass the time. Get tickets from the coach station on Av. Jose Maria Ramos Mejia a few days in advance to guarantee the day of travel.

Regarding places to eat, I cannot recommend El Desnivel in Buenos Aires enough, a parilla of the highest order where the waiters often speak fantastic English. It's cheap, cheerful and can feed you for less than a fiver.

Apart from Buenos Aires, Bariloche is the place to go. An alpine town in the Andes on the edge of a lake, the views are stunning and a plethora of outdoor activity is offered, including skiing, canoeing and parapenting (a real thrill!). The place to stay is Hostel 1004, which has private double rooms. Located on the tenth floor of a 60s concrete monstrosity, it offers panoramic views of the mountains and lake. It boasts the best view in all of Bariloche, a sentiment echoed by the locals who say it's because you can't see 1004 from 1004!

Puerto Madryn is also worth visiting; the gateway to the Valdes peninsular. Day-long wildlife tours leave the town and visit penguin colonies, elephant seal breeding grounds and include fantastic whale watching boat excursion.

Hope this has been helpful and you have a great trip.
Chris Bannister

I travelled in Argentina during February, March and April last year. I arrived via boat from Montevideo, Uruguay, to Buenos Aires and then travelled independently with buses, all the way down the east coast to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, after which I went back up again through the Andes before entering Bolivia via Salta.

I can whole-heartedly recommend the buses; they are for the most part both cheap and comfortable with the option of getting a "cama" or "semi-cama" which means you can stretch out in nigh-horizontal position and even get a bit of sleep. I never had any reason to feel afraid, anxious or nervous on these buses, though it is wise to take basic precautions such as locking your bags, not leaving any personal belongings unattended etc.

In general, Argentina is a safe and friendly country to travel in, though there are suspect parts one should avoid (La Boca in Buenos Aires at night-time, for instance). The bad spots are quite local in character; that is, there is no region as a whole one should avoid but rather one should research a little bit on the local level, asking around in hostels, bus stations and the like.

My favourite bits were by far the Southern and Andean regions (Patagonia, in particular, being absolutely magical). If wine is an interest, the Mendoza region is a must-see, where one can visit vineyards and get brilliant deals on their Malbec vintages. Especially worthy of mention are some of the bits we visited in the south-west of the country - El Calafate (which, charmingly, means "The Blueberry") and El Chalten were probably our pick of the bunch.

From El Calafate it's an easy trip to visit one of the most spectacular and accessible glaciers on the continent, the Perito Moreno, which is well, well, worth the time. El Chalten offers hiking around the Fitz-Roy and Saint-Exupery peaks, and both places cater to travellers. Never a problem finding a hostel or camp site, and more civilized accommodation can be dug up, too. This region is called Parque Nacional los Glaciares and was my favourite part of the trip.

In the north, I can recommend taking a tour around the Andes around Salta - keep an eye out for "El Tren de Los Nubes" or car tours following those same tracks.

You will have a much easier trip if you speak Spanish, though it is possible to get by in most places without it (but it leaves you dependent on other travellers, hostel staff and so on). I found people in general being very happy to go the extra mile to understand me, but it's certainly not a case of everybody, everywhere, speaking English.

My trip took place during their early fall; I hit Tierra del Fuego in early March which felt almost precisely like September in Europe, with trees turning yellow, a clear but sometimes chilly air, yet still reasonably warm sunshine. I found the weather almost perfect for hiking, photographing and other outdoor activities, but I would advise to bring some warm clothes as it could drop down occasionally, especially at altitude.

The hikes I took were not particularly challenging (I am not an athlete or anything) but one should be reasonably physically fit since some of them involved walking upwards of 12-13 miles a day in occasionally rocky and steep terrain. You shouldn't be put off though - I met several people in the 60s and 70s who seemed to be getting on just fine.

You will love your trip in Argentine - at least I know I certainly did.
Kind regards,
Jakob Ronander
Copenhagen

You don't say how long a trip you're planning, but assuming that you're looking at 3-4 weeks, you should be able to see all the major sights at a pace that allows you to get to know the country properly.

I travelled the country recently and met couples of your age that managed well with basic conversational Spanish. Ensure that you are familiar with the "sh/zh" pronunciation of the y and ll, and the local "vos" form. The Argentines are generally extroverted and communicative.

As regards safety, the country compares to southern Italy - watch your bags, but don't worry - this is not Colombia.

If you are comfortable with long distances, bus travel is excellent. Sleeper buses allow almost horizontal rest and it's a common and cheap way to get around. Otherwise, try local airlines - LAN Argentina is good.

You will obviously have Buenos Aires on your list; don't miss the Sunday market at Recoleta (near Eva Peron's burial place), and if possible I'd strongly recommend a visit to nearby Tigre (one-hour by train) for the delta boat-trip. I'd urge you to cross over to Colonia, Uruguay, by ferry across the Rio de la Plata - this is a really charming colonial town for a day trip, and you don't even need to change your pesos! Tickets for both can be bought whilst you're in BA. Buenos Aires can have cold winters (July) and sweltering city heat in January, when most of the locals clear out.

If you are interested in visiting Patagonia, some territory is not passable in the extreme winter months, so you would be better to travel before April, ideally before March. Ushuaia is a brilliant place to go - it has a Nordic / "end of the world" feel and there is plenty to do for three days. Bariloche is beautiful and mustn't be missed. There are plenty of activities going on, but at least take a boat trip and visit the tranquil local town of El Bolson, an old hippie haunt.

You could catch the whale season in Peninsula Valdes provided you came before April; you can fly here but it is quite 'out of the way' for travel. The beach-town of Puerto Madryn is pleasant but not an essential visit unless you come for the (seasonal) sea life. Anyone with Welsh heritage could go and marvel at nearby Trelew, where Welsh immigration years back means all the male locals look like Tom Jones.

El Calafate is a very dull made-to-measure tourist town but is a convenient base for trips e.g: to the unmissable Perrito Moreno glacier. Just don't allocate any time for the town itself and certainly don't buy the overpriced souvenirs.

The Iguazu falls are a stunning must-see, far better on the Argentinian side, but it's easy to cross over by taxi to Brazil for a contrasting view and some fascinating wildlife. The Argentinian side takes two days to see and the Brazilian one day. Iguazu is best reached by plane unless you can handle an 18 hour bus trip from BA.

There is obviously much more to Argentina than this and you'd need to get off the main tourist trail to see it. Salta in the north provides an insight into the only region of Argentina with an indigenous culture (you can sample similar food and buy handicrafts like the ones you'd find in other Andean regions- i.e. Peru, Chile and Bolivia). The wine region around Mendoza is also wonderful. I'd recommend the Thorn Tree Forum at the Lonely Planet website for more ideas and answers to specific questions on itineraries. Lastly, where a 'menu del dia' is offered, this will provide you with a three course meal at lunchtime for incredibly good value.
Buena suerte.
Alina

We visited Brazil and Argentina in December/January this year, and spent five days in Buenos Aires and six in Patagonia (as well as time in Rio and Iguazu).

I would say it is definitely possible to travel independently. Aerolineas Argentinas cover much of the country and a single flight costs around £100. The method of booking is a little strange, (you book on the site and then have to phone to give payment details), but we travelled with them from Puerto Iguazu - BA and BA - El Calafate return.

Buenos Aires is a very European-feeling city and although there is plenty to see, it isn't a must-do. That said, you will end up travelling through there, so it's best to plan some things to do. A bus tour of the city can help you get orientated and takes around half a day. You will want to spend additional time in La Boca, (particularly if you're a football fan) and Recoleta. The tube is the best way to get around the city, a single journey costs around 20 pence, taxis are cheap also.

We stayed in San Telmo, again I would recommend this. The Plaza Dorrego is a great place to sit out for a beer and there are a number of good restaurants and bars around, Palermo is the more upmarket end of town and is easy to get to.

Patagonia: We stayed in El Calafate for the purpose of visiting the Perito Moreno glacier, if you are fit enough I would recommend one of the ice trekking excursions where you can walk on the glacier. We did the four-hour one, but they run one for an hour. If not, then watching from the platforms as the ice chunks break off is spectacular. You can also visit Torres del Paine in Chile from here, but I would not recommend it as it is the type of bus tour you have said you do not like and it takes too long to get there for the time you get to spend in the park.

We also went to El Chalten for a few days and trekked near the FitzRoy massif. There are excellent paths from the town near both Cerro Torrre and Cerro Chalten (Mt. FitzRoy). The walks are long (> 10 miles), but the scenery is spectacular and the town has some charming bars and restaurants, (Rincon del Sur in particular).

We stayed on the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls and visited the Argentine side. The Argentine side is probably the better of the two, but ideally you want to see both. Getting a boat near some of the falls is also well worth doing. You will need two days to see both sides of the falls, and longer if you plan to walk some of the other nature trails on the Argentine side of the park.

Iguazu Falls and the Perito Moreno glacier were not just the highlights of this holiday but well up there with the highlights of any. Given more time, we may have spent time in the Argentine Andes in the north, (around Aconcagua), and would definitely have travelled down to Tierra del Fuego, (again, Aerolineas Argentinas fly to Ushia for this purpose.
Jonathan


The best time of the year to go is September, right when Spring begins.

If you're planning to take planes between cities inside Argentina, expect delays.
Avoid travelling by Aerolineas Argentinas. Try LAN, which has a nice coverage.

If you'd like to go to quiet beaches in the province of Buenos Aires, try going to Costa del Este or Mar de las Pampas. Be aware that Punta del Este is in Uruguay - it's a different city; Costa del Este is a small, retired, quiet place.

In Buenos Aires, don't just visit Palermo and La Boca neighbourhoods. Try going inside the huge city. Try Devoto, where Maradona and Peron's family lived - it's 40 minutes away from Palermo, but worth it.

Read the article on the Guardian about the bars in Buenos Aires; there's one Memorable Bar in Devoto, worth the trip.

If you go to the South, try San Martin de los Andes - it looks a little like being in an old German town...
I hope this has helped!
Best,
Carmen Ferreyra


I travelled extensively in Patagonia and would advise contacting a travel agent in Argentina to sort out almost everything for you and it wont cost you anything as they make their margin on hotel rates etc.

They know all of the bus times / accommodation and practicalities, I would have hated doing it for myself and lots of mistakes would have been made:
cat-travel.com

I would recommend these guys. Sure they can take care of the whole country and they added a lot of value to my trip.
Matt

I lived in Argentina for a few years and it's a wonderful country to visit. A lot of travel options depend on how long you're planning to stay, your budget and what kind of attractions you prefer.

Argentina is a huge country that ranges from dry and desert regions to lush forests and lakes. I haven't travelled much in the south, since it is very expensive and time consuming to get anywhere.

One of my favourite areas is the north-west. My husband is from San Miguel de Tucuman and we have travelled on our own around the small highways in the Andean plains extensively and you can easily manage on your own.

I would suggest travelling by plane to San Miguel de Tucuman. This city is not very attractive and is quite dirty (so avoid having to sleep there if you can) but it is an excellent starting point to hit the Andean plains. In Tucuman, rent a car and head to Tafi del Valle. This is about a four-hour drive along a winding road that starts as a tropical rainforest and then turns into your typical mountain desert. Take your time on this road, it's very narrow and often locals go rather fast... You can spend the night in Tafi del Valle - there are several hotels. If you have time, visit Museo Casa Duende. They are a couple of friends (Lucrecia and Alejando) that have a museum of local legends, art, and sculptures. They are wonderful people that will give you great insight into the valleys myths and legends.

From Tafi del Valle, you continue along the main highway to Cafayate. This is a stunning town full of vineyards (Coppolla reportedly owns a vineyard here). In Cafayate there are hotels as well. There is an excellent hotel in the Quilmes Ruins, though I'm not sure about the price.

From Cafayate, you can continue along the same highway to the city of Salta (I think it might take about three or four hours, driving leisurely) which is a beautiful colonial city worth a couple of days stay. From Salta you can head to San Salvador de Jujuy (uneventful city) and head straight to Pumamarca. This is a tiny and absolutely stunning little village that you can use as a base for visiting Tilcara, Humahuaca and several other Andean towns near the border with Bolivia.

This route is well served, there are gas stations in towns and the entire road is paved, so you can easily do it on your own without worries. If you're not comfortable driving, you can go by bus from one town to the next (in Salta, make sure to take the bus along the Ruta de los Caracoles, not the highway route).

Just remember that Argentina is a huge place. Plane tickets can be expensive (they also charge foreigners more than residents) but I think there is an air pass that allows four trips from any city. So you might want to look into that.

Other places I've visited and that are well worth considering:
Salinas Grandes (in Jujuy, not far (relatively speaking) from Pumamarca.
Valle de la Luna in the province of La Rioja (or San Juan... I can't remember)
Mendoza and the Andean Mountains
Perrito Moreno glacier
Ushuaia (the southernmost city in the world... if you go, dress warmly!)
Iguazu Falls (although this is very touristy, I guess it might be worth the 16-hour bus ride).

Things in and near Buenos Aires:
Recoleta
Palermo
San Telmo
La Boca
El Tigre (river delta, about one-hour by train from Buenos Aires)
A ferry ride across the river to Colonia, a quaint little town in Uruguay.

Things not really worth making a trip:
Mar del Plata... this is like going to Marbella in Spain, it's overcrowded and there isn't much to do but go to the beach.

I hope this helps!
Regards
Cecilia Etchegoyen


I'll be happy to help, since I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

First thing you need to know is that Argentina is a really big country, with many different possibilities.

You'll probably get to Buenos Aires, a city that has much to offer. Typical neighbourhoods to stay at are San Telmo; the colonial style one. Has got lots of tango places, antiques, nice bars and Recoleta, which is the sophisticated - near downtown - fancy spot.

Don't take an organised tour! There's no need to. You can get to know the city by using the bus or subway (really cheap), the tourist double-decker that has got a great route (buenosairesbus.com) or taxis (specially at night, its best to call one to pick you wherever you are). You might want to see some art museums (MALBA and Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes are worth it), eat some meat (what we call parrillada).

There are some visits to the countryside. Ranches that offer a day visit with gauchos and horse riding and so. Not quite what we do in the city, but a different experience, that's for sure. La Boca and Palermo are also a must. Weather is today 10C/50F - it's almost midday and it's average for winter. January is extremely hot, but November is OK for visiting.

Ok, that's about it for Buenos Aires. At the north, heading east, by the border with Paraguay and Brazil, there are some lovely waterfalls called Cataratas del Iguazœ. Over there, the climate might be warmer and you'll be able to walk and enjoy the nature.

In the north-west there are ruins and deserts in the provinces of Salta and Jujuy. Also, this places is very special because of the nature and people - it's where some of the indigenous traditions are maintained. You can travel to these place by plane (probably the best way to travel the whole country) and there you might want to do some organised tours. Food is always a tradition: empanadas and locro are the key.

Then there is the south, getting colder and colder. Bariloche is a city in the Andes mountain chain. At this time of the year it is the place for skiing - this season has been perfect for winter sport lovers. There is a glacier at Calafate in Santa Cruz (that's the province of the current president) that is really impressive. If you go "to the end of the world", as we say, you'll get to Ushuaia. I absolutely love this city. Bear in mind that in the south provinces are all about snow, rain and cold. There are many lodging options in the south, lovely places to eat fish and some welsh cakes and tea (there's a huge community there).

As in every big city, watch out from cab drivers, dark areas and people who don't seem reliable. Learning Spanish is an advantage, specially if you're travelling north. Still, you many find English-speaking people almost everywhere. People are very friendly!

Hope you enjoy my country, and please do write to me if you have further doubts,
Lucy

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