The knowledge: 24 hours in Dubai
Every week a reader gets a chance to put a travel question to the Been there community and travel experts. How does this work?
This week's expert is Chris Greenhalgh, Virgin Holidays senior destination manager for Dubai
The dilemma:
In both directions of a journey to Cape Town, I have to break the flight in Dubai. I am a woman, travelling with my sixteen-year-old daughter.
We have a whole day and night each way, and would like to do something other than shop - which interests us not at all. I am also horrified that anyone would open a ski slope in the desert, so I'd rather not go there ...
Any other suggestions greatly received, however - I would love to see something of cultural interest and something of local life.
Clare Thomlinson
The expert says:
Chris Greenhalgh, Virgin Holidays Senior Destination Manager for Dubai:
There are many things to do in Dubai for those that don’t want to spend their time shopping. As you are limited in time, for a whirlwind sightseeing experience you could take a helicopter ride where you will see the coastline near the Burj Al Arab, circle over Jumeirah Palm and, on the way back, the skyline of the modern Dubai and contrasting Creek (look out for the world's tallest tower the Burj Dubai).
As you would love to see something of culture, you could go on the Dubai City Tour which is the perfect way to experience a mix of old and new in the ever changing Dubai. On the tour you can visit the Bastakia, the Dubai Museum and take a traditional abra across the creek to haggle in the spice and gold souks. There are other action packed ways of exploring the desert if that is of interest. You could try the Desert Safari where you and your daughter could enjoy dune bashing as you drive through the desert in a 4 wheel drive. On the Desert Safari you can also take a camel ride and enjoy entertainment from a belly dancer while witnessing the Arabian sunset. Alternatively for a glimpse of traditional Dubai head to Jumerah Mosque which is one of the largest in the Emirates. During the evenings, there are a multitude of restaurants catering for every taste from Michelin stared eateries to local cuisine. During an after dinner walk don’t miss the spectacular fountain display outside the Burj Dubai, the largest fountain display in the world!
N.B Dubai City Tour from £24 per person
Helicopter Ride from £234 per person (excluding transfers)
Desert Safari available locally from US$77 per person
www.virginholidays.co.uk / 0844 557 3860
Our readers say:
It came as a welcome relief to get away from the tacky-glitz and faux-
glamour of the newer parts of Dubai and head to Old Dubai (I think the
area's called Deira). Travelling around on an Abra (tiny people ferry)
then walking around the large Suoq (markets) was a great dose of
traditional Arab culture. I also had one of the best indian meals of
my life at a place on the street called Delhi Darbar that wasn't much
to look at, but a great culinary experience.
If you're after a touch of high-life, then head to the Friday brunch at
Al Qasr. The weighty pricetag is all but forgotten once the jaw-
dropping array of 5-star food and drink is made apparent. The deserts
bars alone are enough to realise why this place has been awarded the
best Friday lunch three years running.
Anthony
I have had a couple of 10-hour stopovers in Dubai in the last decade and very pleasant ones.
I am a middle aged female solo traveler from Australia. I recommend the camel racing, the small restored souks by the creek, the lovely museum and a bit of tripping up and down the creek in the local water taxis.
First time I went, I jumped in a taxi at about 6 am and asked for the camel racing track. My Arabic was poor and the taxi driver couldn't read the map, so I ended up at the horse racing track just in time for the last of the early morning track work (it is essential to start early to avoid the heat). I heard music in the distance and wandered off in its direction and came across an equestrian club where riders were practicing dressage to musical accompaniment. I went round to the front gate and noticed in the distance camels coming and going through the dunes, and as I stepped forward my sandled foot sunk into deep, fine sand; my first experience of a sand desert between my toes!
The camels were regaled with colourful cloths and had sub-continental minders. They looked sleek like racing camels. I soon found their stables; light shelters in the dunes, and eventually also the race track where the local Sheikhs were having a race day with tiny sub-continental jockeys who looked like they were velcro-ed to the saddles. How else did they stay on? I hope they have stopped this practice by now. The camel owners in their big four-wheel drives raced around outside the circuit "encouraging" their camels and riders.
I was the only foreigner and female in sight and had to sit by myself at the empty end of the colourful small stadium. Here, out of the corner of my eye I spied my first hoopoe, which, as I was on my way to Iran, the home of Farid ud-din Attar's classic epic "Conference of the Birds", was a wonderful good omen. Fortunately three westerners turned up and offered me a lift back to the horse race course, where somebody kindly bought me a drink and got me a taxi back into town.
From there I went to the souk down by the creek and spent the rest of the morning wandering about in the shade just watching the locals trading and watching the traffic on the water.
Next time I dropped in, in 2005, it was about 50 degrees in the shade. I went down to the souk on the other side of the creek and found the museum. What a treat! Above all, it was underground and very cool. Built around an old fort, it is exemplary in its restraint and taste. Such a loved and treasured gem was a delightful surprise, so I wont describe it any further.
Later, I went down to the charmingly restored souk and caught a local water taxi across the Creek. There's nothing like being on the water with a breeze to relieve the oppression of the Gulf heat. Everywhere there were sub-continental men avoiding eye contact. Suddenly a man stepped on the boat and smiled at me broadly. We recognised each other as compatriots, although we were strangers and looked cultures apart. I ran into him in my local street in Melbourne some months later, reminding me of the small pleasures of Dubai.
Cheers
Anna
Melbourne
To get a sense of the culture, it's worth visiting Dubai museum in Bur Dubai, followed by a walk through the souk and a boat trip across the Creek with the old abbras (quick and cheap). Once in Deira, go for a walk along the waterfront where the dhows are and visit the spice souk - go around 6pm in the evening. From the spice souk it's a short walk to the gold souk which is a delight to Western eyes.
For a sundowner, visit the Dubai Creek Golf Club & Yacht and have dinner on the deck at the Yacht Club with wonderful views of the river and skyline. Alternatively, the Irish Village on the grounds of the tennis stadium is a lively place as well.
Enjoy!
SW
While the rush to the future and beyond has left much of Dubai's culture in the past, there are some stunning things to see and do in Dubai if you're there for only a day and a night:
1) You could get a one-day desert tour through Arabian Adventures. Falconing is a traditional sport in the UAE and they offer that as a tour.
2) Nal al Sheeba is the host of the Dubai World Cup Horse race. I believe they train out there all year round and it's beautiful out there.
3) You could rent a dhow (traditional Arabic boat) for a sail out in the Arabian Sea - catch one on Khor Dubai in Diera waterfront
4) You could go diving out in the Arabian Sea, some good reefs out there. Al Boon Diving in Jumeirah Beach is the place to hook up with.
And lastly,
5) I know you said "anything but a mall", but the water fountain show at the base of the Burj Dubai, the world's tallest building, is spectacular and a must see at least once if you're there in Dubai twice. Just look for the 850 meter tall needle and go to the lagoon at the base of it - you can't miss it. Good Thai food restaurant there as well.
Hope this helps - Enjoy Dubai whatever you end up doing!
Cheers,
John Galloway
Firstly, don't discount totally the idea of visiting a mall; the number of people in local dress attest to the fact that this is local life in Dubai and the Emirate's temples to spending are a sight in themselves.
Mall of the Emirates has been around for a while, and everyone has heard of the indoor ski slope, but in the 50-plus heat, there's still little to beat an hour on the fake snow.
The newer Dubai Mall is also worth a look; if you're brave enough, shark diving in the gargantuam aquarium is a unique experience - if not, a trot round the indoor gold souk is great for souvenir-buying. Visit in the evening and you can also cross the bridge to Souk al Bahar, a pretty souk (it looks like Disney Yemen) with restaurants that look out over the Burj Dubai (the world's tallest building - not yet finished) and The Dubai Fountain (the world's tallest fountain - spot the theme).
If you're determined to brave the heat, take a taxi to Bur Dubai and get dropped off at the Dubai Museum. Avoid the museum itself, but minutes away are the historical Bastakiya district and its pretty cafes and chi-chi art galleries, and the textile souk, which sits right next to the Creek. Take an abra (a traditional boat) across the Creek and alight in Deira, where you can visit the spice and gold souks. On Saturday, Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday, you can also take a tour round the Jumeirah Mosque.
CL
Dubai Museum in Bur Dubai is a good starting point and a bargain at 3 dirham each to get in (about 50p). Give yourself about an hour for the museum, it is open until 8pm.
After, you can walk through the fabric souk then take an abra (tiny open ferry) across the Creek to the Gold souk. The abra is another bargain at 1 dirham (about 15p) each way and a fun way to travel. The souks tend to shut in the afternoon, so try visit after 4pm.
You could hire a private abra for an hour (100 dirham) and this gives you the chance to view the older part of Dubaifrom the water. There are lots of working dhows docked along the Creek, which make interesting viewing.
Alison Thirlwall
Dubai can offer a visitor a lot more besides ample opportunities for shopping.
I would suggest you try and discover what is left of the old Dubai pre-1970s urban explosion! The old district of Bastakyia holds some architectural gems. It is essentially a collections of old Arabian townhouses arranged around narrow streets, an entire neighbourhood left intact. There is renovation ongoing. There are galleries and the Dubai Museum is just around the corner. That should be good for at least part of the day; remember it is likely to be hot during the day so walking around for too long might not be advisable.
Also you might find a stroll around Dubai Marina quite interesting. It is a new development, so no ol'-time ambience here, however, the place is packed with cafes and street vendors and it is very, very lively.
In the evening, not sure if there are plenty of 'alternative options', but Dubai is full of restaurants catering to every need. I would stay near the Creek, try the excellent sushi and enjoy the evening!
Hope you have a great time!
Yiannos
I would suggest a visit to the excellent Dubai Museum, and from there take an abra across the Creek to the spice souk, followed possibly by the Gold Soukh.
On the return journey, a must-visit is the Bhastakhiya area in old Dubai: shady little streets and restored wind-tower houses, with a number of excellent coffee houses to take shade.
Guy Roukaerts
Dubai Museum is a time less classic and a bargain at AED 5.
Mark Simon