The knowledge: Two weeks in India
Every week a reader gets a chance to put a travel question to the Been there community. How does this work?
This week's expert is Roger Wade from Bootsnall travel network
The dilemma this week:
My girlfriend and I are flying to Mumbai in October for two weeks where we plan to travel down the south-west coast.
Initially we were thinking of catching a train to Goa, spend a few days on the beach then fly to Cochin where we spend the rest of our time in Kerala getting to Trivandrum overland. Is this too ambitious? We only have two weeks so do not want to be rushed.
The alternative is to fly directly to Cochin and spend the majority of our time in Kerala (which has more appeal to us). If we have time leftover we could head North into Goa.
Oliver Putler
The expert says:
Roger Wade from Bootsnall travel network:
Your plan of first stopping off in Goa doesn’t sound too ambitious at all, but then again, the subject of how much time each person prefers to spend in each place is very subjective and has been the source of endless debates among independent travelers. Some people get bored after three days anywhere, and others feel that even one week is always too little time.
With that said, Goa and Kerala feel like two totally different countries. Goa has its noticeable Portuguese influence, lovely beaches, the Anjuna flea market, and rave culture (mostly from December through Easter). Kerala is known for its greenery, wildlife, and more traditional Indian culture with a southern twist. I wouldn’t pass up a chance to experience them both if I were so close.
Also, that time of the year you should have no problem finding good (and cheap) accommodation almost anywhere with no notice. Most hotels outside of India’s cities can’t be booked online and do a brisk walk-up business, plus you’ll be traveling outside the busy seasons. In other words, you can wing it without worrying about finding a place to sleep.
One thing though, the train system in India requires some study. Finally, you can now book tickets online in advance, but still you’ll want to read some train travel tips for India if this is your first visit. The long distance trains have carriages that are nicer than you probably imagine, but the booking and schedule system is almost nothing like in Europe.
Readers' replies:
If you are interested in spending time on the beach, but would prefer to
concentrate on Kerala rather than Goa, then it is very easy indeed to travel
south from Cochin by train and to stop at somewhere like Varkala on the way.
Varkala is a beach resort, but not as crowded and touristy as many Goan
beaches, or Kovalam beach which is further south towards Trivandrum, and you could spend a pleasant few days there.
Trains are easy and straightforward from Cochin to Trivandrum, and it
doesn't take all that long. Most travellers make a stop in Alleppey to visit
the backwaters. You can find some nice homestay accommodation* in the
backwater villages and take a trip on a rice barge. Alleppey is between
Cochin and Varkala, so it might make sense to stop there first.
The coast of Kerala is beautiful - although personally I prefer the almost
deserted beaches of Northern Kerala to the more touristy south.
However, you should certainly consider taking a trip into the mountains. The scenery is spectacular, and here they grow the spices, tea and coffee that Kerala is famous for.
There's also a chance to see some wildlife. Periyar wildlife sanctuary in the Cardamom hills is probably the most accessible from Cochin. You need to set aside at least three days for this, and although you can travel to Thekkady by bus, if your time is short you might prefer an organised tour, or to hire a driver. It is probably easiest to get to Periyar from Cochin, so plan to do this at the beginning or end of your journey.
Do you know why you are going to Trivandrum? Just asking, because if I were short of time, I would give it a miss, and spend more time in the mountains or on the beach according to my preference. Cochin is by far the nicer city, and you should leave a couple of days to explore it on the way in or the way out.
Enjoy yourselves! I spent three months in Kerala earlier this year, and have
been longing to go back ever since.
Anne
* This tip on homestays in Kerala was posted by Tilly:
GK’s Riverview Homestay, Kerala
Nestled between emerald green paddy-fields, luscious palms and meandering canals is George Kutty’s homestay in the heart of the Keralan backwaters, in the village where Arundati Roy grew up. For $10 a day, guests are provided with en suite, air-conditioned rooms and invited to eat with the family: mouth-watering meals using fresh fruits, spices and vegetables from their garden. Days can be spent navigating the waterways in the Kutty’s canoe, exploring the surrounding villages and wildlife or venturing into the nearby market towns of Kottayam and Alappuzha. George Kutty’s enthusiasm and knowledge is boundless, providing visitors with an insight into and understanding of rural southern India’s culture, traditions, religion and day-to-day life.
Tilly
My suggestion is that instead of Mumbai, you should divide your stay between Goa and Kerala. The timing of your visit is such that the festival season in Mumbai will be in full swing (lots of crowds, traffic jams and noise) while Goa will be peaking for its preparation of Christmas/New Year.
Likewise, Kerala will provide you a more peaceful (a soothing of nerves experience) and a relaxed atmosphere. Once you are in Kerala, you can sneak into Pondicherry or Trivandrum for a couple of days. My suggestion to you is:
Land in Mumbai and take a connecting flight to Goa. Mumbai to Goa by is a one-hour flight
Days in Goa - four days are enough
Travel to Kerala - flight shouldn't take more than two hours. Alternatively, you can take a train which might take up to eight hours
Days in Kerala - five to six days
Travel to Pondicherry - I think train will take three hours
Pondicherry stay - two days
Travel back to Mumbai - flight/train - three hrs/ 15 hrs
Fly back
Disclosure: I was born in New Delhi, worked in Mumbai and am now staying in UK and still feel Mumbai is the best place in the world. But it's a city that grows on you and only if you stay there for good. From a tourist's eyes, it seems filthy, dirty, over-crowded and avoidable. That was my first impression when I landed there the first time. But then magic struck me and now I simply love that place.
Have a nice trip!
Regards
Rachit Gupta
In April 2008 my boyfriend and I went to India for two weeks. We flew into Mumbai and stayed there for three nights then flew down to Goa where we spent four nights. This didn't feel rushed at all. We felt like we got to see enough of the hectic city of Mumbai before chilling out on a quiet beach in Goa.
From Goa we took the train to Cochin. If we were more organised we would have booked an overnight train, but we enjoyed the experience of the taking the train in the day. Spent three nights in Cochin where we chilled in the town, did a lot of walking, eating and visited the backwaters. Then drove over to Kumily, where we visited the wildlife park and took in the beautiful tea hills. We hired a driver and it only cost us £20 for an eight-hour journey! Three nights there, then they drove us back to Cochin where we took a flight back into Mumbai. One night in a hotel by the airport and off the next morning.
It may sound like a lot, but the towns are quite small and easy to get around. If you're a beach person you could cut down your time in the city and spend more time in Goa. We had an amazing time and plan to go back to take in more of the country. Enjoy!
Emma