30 January

In a nutshell, where can we go for our honeymoon? We want it to be our perfect two weeks, which means that any potential destination has a lot of boxes to tick:
• Travelling August 2009
• Within one long haul flight of Heathrow
• Large, long, deserted white sandy beaches
• Temperature 25 - 30C (hot, but not too humid and certainly not rainy or chilly)
• Luxury resort with friendly and attentive staff
• Choice of excellent restaurants serving fresh, local cuisine within walking distance of the resort
• An emphasis on relaxation, but with opportunities for getting out and experiencing local history and culture
• Cost = up to £2,000 per person

OK, this list may look a little demanding, but we feel that this is the one occasion in our lives where we deserve a bit of perfection.
Looking forward to hearing what you come up with.
Ben and Ems

There's no doubt in my mind at all.
Thailand, and more specific - PhiPhi island. There's plenty of resorts spread all round the island and there's plenty to do such as scuba, sea fishing, snorkelling or just do very little. We went on our honeymoon and had simply the best time of our life. You'll need to get another flight after the long haul but for this one compromise you'll get all the other things you want. We went end of July to start of Aug. First we stayed in Phuket which was amazing and I would recommend the Hotel Cape Panwar built into a cliff, the restaurants are fantastic. People will say it's rainy season but when it does rain and it's not often, its a 25min massive downpour which is quite an experience. Back to PhiPhi, we had our own beach area at the exit of our bungalow undisturbed for approx 200meters with just the tiny shell crabs to keep us company.
Food, people and scenery are all unbelievably amazing. Please go.
Colin Walker

Hello Ben and Ems
I recommend the state of Pernambuco in Brazil, particularly the state capital Recife and its sister city Olinda, and a nearby resort called Porto de Galinhas.
All three have quiet, sandy beaches - Recife's Boa Viagem is the high end of things, where you'll find more expensive hotels, whereas Olinda has boutique accommodation called Pousadas, the most luxurious of which is probably Pousada Sete Colinas. Porto de Galinhas is where Recife's well-off take weekend break. For attentive staff, guides, chaperones and helpers abound in any of the places you stay.

Porto de Galinhas is just down the coast and the day I spent on the beach there was one of the most idyllic of my life - people wander up and down selling you food, drink and whatever else you might need. It is as good as any beach in Rio or Sao Paulo state and yet a lot less crowded, yet not totally secluded deither.
The weather in August is starting to warm up as obviously being Southern Hemisphere, the seasons are upside down, so over there it is spring - which isn't the hottest it gets but if you're stepping off a plane from London, it's going to be a lot better than the weather you've come from but not oppressively tropical at that time of year.

The food available in Brazil is stunning. They have populations of Chinese, Japanese and Italians who migrate up north, plus their own cuisine is based on fish, coconut, coriander and generally is very healthy indeed. Breakfasts are always substantial, consisting of the usual cereals but also cake, papaya, watermelon, and local honey and cheeses.
For local history and culture, the city has a legendary carnival and there is a stunning array of colonial architecture as its backdrop. The old town of Recife (Recife Antigo) has regular live music events and Olinda is home to Maracatu, rehearsals of which go on all year round and which are always interesting to watch. Capoeira is practised in places, and the city also has a wonderful complex called the Casa de Brennand, which houses art by a renowned local artist of the same name.

Many local artists in Olinda exhibit their colourful carnival-inspired work from their homes. And there is also a movement of trendy modern music called Mangue (Mangrove), which is inspired by fusions of carnival drumming and modern forms like Hip-Hop and Ska.
There are direct flights to Recife from London airports, although I remember my last visit being from Gatwick.
Marc Starr

I suggest the Maldives. Stay at Hivafen Fushi and Soneva Gili resorts.
The rack rates at hotels can be discounted - heavily - up to 40% sometimes.
Try linara travel, and atollparadise
both agents provide great rates and you can also get honeymoon packges
with the hotels which include dinners, boat trips as well as massages
all included
Emma

Several Recommendations for you:
East Malaysia - Borneo would fit your requirements almost perfectly - 12 hour flight to KL and then 2 hour local flight to East Malaysia. I have lived in KL for almost 8 years and one of my favourite local destinations is Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. I can recommend the Tanjung Aru Shangri La hotel - it is set on the beach, with boat access to a beautiful marine park, the staff are impeccable in their politeness and dedication to service, the food excellent and the rooms spacious and airy. You would be hard pushed to do much better. However, if you fancy a few days in a little more isolated luxury, the Nexus Karambunai nearby is also stunning. The advantage however of the Tanjung Aru is that it is set closer to Kota Kinabalu town and the myriad of fantastic restaurants. Malaysians love their food and you are ideally placed to experience some of the finest seafood available. Prices of hotels are good as is transport and eating out.

Other than relaxing on the beach, there are lots of things you can do - a steam train ride through the jungles is a great way to spend half a day; You can organise trips to the hot springs and rainforest canopy walkway, to Mount Kinabalu national park; you can even arrange an overnight trip to the Orang Utan Sanctuary in Sandakan in the north of Borneo.It is a 20 minute flight away past Mount Kinabalu - very spectacular
In addition to Kota Kinabalu, Kuching in the southern part of Malaysian Borneo is also worth checking out. There is a great resort at Santubong the Damai Beach and its twin the Damai Lagoon- it was formerly a holiday inn but I'm not sure now. Again, lots to do there - day trip to the Semangoh orang utan reserve, another to Bako national park, around Kuching city itself, and the Cultural park, where the Rainforest music festival is held in July is just across the road. There you can find all kinds of different tribal houses rebuilt and set in the most idyllic landscaping. There are fewer opportunities to dine out here than in either Kuching city or Kota Kinabalu.

Also worth checking is Langkawi - though it has become a little westernised - including prices - in recent years and some of the islands off the east coast of Malaysia - though I would say that most if these, whilst providing the miles of deserted beaches you want are a little bit small to sustain 2 weeks holiday. Also well worth looking at is Bali - you can book a cheap fight from KL with Air Asia - it takes about 3 hours and is a truly stunning island. Check out Air Asia's website for bargains - they fly to lots of asian destinations and also have tie-ups with hotels which are generally very favourably priced. In Bali, I would recommend the Alila Manggis in Candidasa away from the crowds on the east of the island - beautiful boutique hotel set on a deserted beach. Beats the crowded Kuta any day. Check out Ubud while you are there - worth spending a couple of nights in this arsty, very stylish town in the middle of the island The Alila group also have a hotel here which boasts the most spectacular infinity pool overlooking the Balinese rainforest and paddy fields. Really special
Anyway, I hope that this has been useful. Good luck with your wedding and with your honeymoon plans.
Kind Regards
Helen L

I know that I fail the one long haul criteria, but Broome in the North West of Western Australia satisfies all the others and it is perfect in August!
Franklin Gaffney

I'm a Welsh chap who married a Californian 20 years ago. We honeymooned in Whitefish, Montana, in what was the first steps of winter. A house on the lake and the national park a few moments away, it was quite unique in as much as we both came from entirely different landscapes and climes. It was magical as a consequence as it was new (like our betrothal) and a pure experience of newness and possibility, a perfect way to begin a new age.
Not looking for a pair of socks or a teapot just recommending something that carried no baggage, and whichever way you go, go somewhere beyond your past.
Good luck to ya'
Best
Michael

23 January

Two couples (three Britons and one Canadian) would like to take a classic American road trip - little towns, Americana, stunning scenery - for two weeks on the west coast of the United States (possibly including the Dakotas/Vegas if possible) in June. We're planning the convertible, sunglasses, scarves and road trip music but would like some advice on must do places, experiences, routes and sidetrips. We will probably fly in and out of the same city so will need to plan a route accordingly with some planning mixed with meandering. Any suggestions would be highly appreciated.
Valerie

A few days after I got married to an American girl in the summer of 2005, we drove from Los Angeles to Seattle over three days.

Day 1 – LA to somewhere in Northern California

We left in very early morning (5ish) and drove the faster inland route (as opposed to the fashionable coast road) from LA to San Francisco. The coast road would certainly have been more scenic, but it meant we were able to reach SF by early afternoon and the desert route has an atmosphere of its own that justifies the visit. We were able to park fairly easily, and spent a good four hours just strolling along the front. Make sure you eat clam chowder in a sourdough bowl.

We left early evening and headed north, this time sticking to the 101 via the Golden Gate Bridge. Northern California is stunning, and there are any number of small towns with hotels (good and bad, cheap and not so cheap) where you can bed down for the night. Pick one, I really don’t think it matters. Just make sure you stop before you get to the Redwood Forest because this has to be seen in daylight.

Day 2 – Somewhere in Northern California to Portland, Oregon

Starting off at a more reasonable hour this time we kept to the 101, which runs through Redwood National Park. You could easily spend a couple of days here, as there is plenty of camping and hiking, however we had to content ourselves with a couple of stops for food and pictures. As the 101 runs on through Northern California and into Oregon it spends most of its time as close to the coast as possible. If you want a sneak preview go and watch The Goonies. There is a shot of a couple of large rock formations that you’ll see as you drive past.

I don’t remember how far north we went (we spent some time trying to find a distant relative who lived on 101 between towns, and did eventually succeed), before we headed east to pick up the main highway into Portland. At first I was disappointed to leave the coast road, but after spotting Golden Eagles and Elk as we heading inland the suffering became more than sufferable. The main freeway up to Portland is nothing to write home about when compared with some of the roads we’d already driven, but it gets you there much quicker if you’re getting pushed for time. Portland is worth a visit because it’s a reasonable size city, there are plenty of shops and there is no sales tax in Oregon.

Day 3 – Portland to Seattle

At some point between Portland and Seattle is Mount St Helens. Please go there. Almost as soon as you get off the main highway and onto the road that takes you to the volcano you can start to see the immense damage that the explosion in 1980 caused. The tree line still has a long way to go before it even begins to look like the swathes of forest that you have driven past so far. You will get tantalising glimpses of the mountain as the road twists its way to ground zero. The most important thing about mountains like this in Washington, is that you can tell that they are mountains. You don’t have to try and identify individual peaks in a vast unending range. It is right there, in front of you, you really can’t miss it. Even Mr Magoo can see Mount St Helens. There is a visitors centre that is worth a visit, and helicopter rides if you’re feeling flush.

I love Seattle. Washington has a very different feel to the rest of the US. Firstly, nobody has jumped on the environmental bandwagon because they’ve been driving the bandwagon for decades. There is public transport in Seattle, and the city feels almost European. The fish and chips are better than the fish and chips in Grimsby and the weather is remarkably similar. Go and watch the Seattle Mariners. They aren’t very good so getting tickets isn’t very difficult or very expensive.

If you want to include this as part of a bigger trip, you can drive from Vegas to LA in about 6 – 7 hours (been there, done that too). You’ll go through the Mohave Desert and over the top of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. In fact you can drive from Salt Lake City to LA in about 16 hours if you push it but you may as well stop off at Vegas and spread out the journey over a couple of days. It’s worth it just for the drive from Southern Utah (very high up) down through the canyons as you drive through the corner of Arizona.

Thanks
Grant Dyble

The Salton Sea, freaky and beautiful.
Also remember the rule "If its not a V8, its not a road trip".

Thats it.
Ben

I can help you out with a route starting in a Californian city that everyone loves: San Diego. Fly into LA and road trip down to SD. It’s only about 2 hours and a city that shouldn’t be missed. You have the best of everything in this City; city life, beautiful sights, parks and beaches. Take in everything that the city has to offer before you head off on your road trip. Stay in Gastown as this is the hub of all the entertainment. Then head out on the highway across to Flagstaffvia Phoneix. It will take you about 7 hours to get here, stay for the evening in Flagstaffa quaint town that has a very western feel. Start early the following day and drive up to the Grand Cayon. A beautiful drive. It will only take you about 2 hours and then you’ll be in the National Park. From here ensure you see all of the North Rim on the do-it-yourself route. This will allow you to set your own route and time frame and see what you want to see along the rim. Spectacular views of the natural phenomenon can be appreciated in 3-4 hours depending on the weather conditions (heat/cold etc).

Once you have seen what you came to see, head off on the highway towards Las Vegas. This road trip will take around 5 hours, so you will arrive at the strip during rush hour. Every hour is rush hour on the strip, so there is no best time to arrive. Check in to a hotel on the strip (do this mid-week for the best walk-up rates). Spend 2-3 days here taking in all that vegas is famous for and then head onward….the rest is up to another helpful soul… Enjoy, Amercians are very kind and welcoming.
Enjoy:
Bel, Cambridge


My husband and I are planning to visit UK and rent a car at the beginning of May. Would your readers have recommendations for 'beautiful drives' I wonder ?
Thank you,
Elisabeth

This year the Early May Bank Holiday, observed in all parts of the UK and Northern Ireland, falls on Monday May 4th; accordingly the roads are likely to be much more crowded than usual between the early evening of Friday May 1st and the late hours of Monday May 4th inclusive. Bank holiday congestion is not ubiquitous, but it's grim to get caught up in it and scenic roads may well be too crowded to make for pleasant relaxed driving on these dates.

If you're in Northern England, there are beautiful drives West from the A1 in Yorkshire and equivalent roads in County Durham, up some of the Pennine dales: Wharfedale, Wensleydale, Swaledale, Teesdale, Weardale. These routes get you, one way or another, to the M6 and other key roads on the West side of the country. Ordinarily, I don't think they get overcrowded. (You can do them west-east, but the high point of the drive is sooner over; driving from the east with a long progress up the valleys towards the summits creates pleasurable anticipation, and I think is the most "scenic" way to do them!)

I would add that the A66 trans-Pennine route is a fast trunk route, relatively low-lying and less scenic than others through the Dales.
Margaret

Wow, there's so many to choose from (just don't do the M25...).

I would recommend a trip over to Cheddar Gorge in Somerset, and from there to the Mendip Hills. It's absolutely beautiful in the sun and in springtime, and probably not too crowded with tourists. You'll need to take the B3135.

If you'd rather have rugged scenery, perhaps consider the Snowdonia and thus Llanberis area in Wales. The whole area is breathtaking plus there's a few pretty villages and towns to stop at making it great for a weekend trip.
Enjoy!
Susan

16 January

We are going to Nagasaki in March on a cruise for one day. Does anyone have any advice for what to see and do in 24 hours? We have been told there are great hot baths nearby and would be grateful for any 'must do' things people can recommend.
Maggie

Nagasaki is a great little town to visit for 24 hours. There are plenty of small scale tourist attractions within an easy walk, or pleasant tram ride, around the town. There are indeed some great hot springs to visit relatively nearby, the most famous being those at Unzen, a volcanic mountain range which can be reached by hire car in about two hours and probably two and half by local bus. I wouldn't really recommend going to these if you only have 24 hours here though. I think you'd probably be better off exploring the town itself.

Firstly take a stroll along Dejima wharf, a delightful marina development that has a few cafes and restaurants with tables outside. I recommend an espresso at the Attic Cafe. From here, it is a short stroll to the historical Dejima Island, a reconstructed living museum of the tiny gated Dutch traded community which was Japan's only contact to the outside world during its long self-enforced period of international isolation (1633-1853). Next, you can wander along to the old Chinatown district, a pleasant and colourful relic of another of Nagasaki's historical international connections. Stop here for a bowl of "Nagasaki champon", a famous local dish based on Chinese noodles.

You should not visit Nagasaki, of course, without considering the city's terrible recent history and the Atomic Bomb Museum and related peace gardens should certainly be part of your schedule. Not an easy experience, but a very necessary one if you are to fully appreciate the city.

Finally, you can hop on a tram to the other side of town and visit the hugely popular "Glover Gardens"; a collection of Meiji era (1868-1912) foreigner's houses set in beautiful gardens with panoramic views of the city. The main attraction here being the house of Thomas Glover (1838-1911), a Scottish trader who established his home and business in the city, and is credited with helping the country industrialise during the Meiji era, founding many famous companies along the way.

My main advice is to take advantage of the great public transport system and really get out and wander through the town, there's something noteworthy to see on almost every corner.
Richard Culleton
Nagasaki

Nagasaki is a compact city that is easy to walk around but also has an excellent tram system. Single journeys are Yen 100. Day passes, at Yen 600, are cheap but as the city is so compact you may find you never make even six journeys on a single day.

Stroll around Tojin-machi, the old China Town (as opposed to the nearby current China town). Tojin-machi has a distinctly different atmosphere. From here hilly paths, through old residential neighbourhoods, will take you to Glover Gardens. Enter the gardens using the elevator that deposits you conveniently at the top gate.

The Glover Gardens is a collection of C19 houses of European and American traders on a site overlooking Nagasaki inlet. It sounds a bit cheesy but is, in fact, a pleasant place to stroll around. In the grounds is a good coffee shop with views over the inlet. There is also a good short film on the main, local festival, Kunchi. It is shown in a building near the main exit.
For those who like modern art and architecture the new Nagasaki Modern Art Museum is well worth a visit. The museum is situated in newly laid gardens on the inlet. Across the waters are shipyards that provide an interesting contrast.

Dejima was the site where Dutch traders were restricted to during Japan's long period of seclusion from the rest of the world. The buildings have been recreated and these, along with informative displays, provide a very good idea of what life was like. Siebold was a doctor with the Dutch on Dejima and he made an extensive study of the Japanese flora. A museum in the city is dedicated to his work in Japan.

The Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture is a very good museum describing the history of this interesting city. The museum is on the site of what was the official residence of the Shogun's representative and governor of the city. The major portion of the residence has also been recreated.
Regular boat excursions around the inlet are available during the day and evening.

The Peace Park, atomic bomb museum and Urakami Church, which was close to the epicenter, provide an interesting, if solemn, use of time.
A tourist information office is located in Nagasaki Station.
Paul Christie

24 hours being quite short, and Kyushu's transportation system mostly bus based, I would focus on seeing a few Nagasaki sites and a trip to Unzen, which is a great place to go to an onsen (bath). The Nagasaki sites are pretty unique in Japan, with main highlights being the Dutch slope / Glover area, (colonial houses from when Nagasaki and Kobe were pretty much the only ports in Japan allowing trade with the Dutch and Chinese), an ancient Chinatown area and, more involving, the atomic bomb site / memorial.

Buses to Unzen and back leave from the Nagasaki central bus station, and there are a few a day. Upon arrival, ask the person in the bus terminal for the return buses' schedule. It takes roughly two hours to get there from Nagasaki and has some of the best sulphur bath water in Japan along with the eerie steaming "jigoku" hells, a wasteland of steam and boiling pits where Christians were once martyred. Unzen offers an easily walkable jigoku tour and many options for bathing, onsen hopping and staying a night, the best bet being to go for a place offering a traditional inn (ryokan) feel, which might be a little pricey but worth it. Be sure to try the "onsen tamago", eggs hard boiled in the springs sulphuric water.
Have fun
Ben

I would strongly recommend any (or all) of the following to do in and
around Nagasaki in 24 hours:

1) Take the ropeway up to the top of Mount Inasa for a spectacular
spring view of the city and the sea beyond!

2) Wander down to one of the waterfront restaurants and try some
Nagasaki Champon (spicy Korean-style noodles) washed down with a giant
frothy tankard of Japanese lager or three.

3) Visit the atomic bomb museum for a fairly balanced account of what
happened to the city and its people, one morning in August, 1945.

4) Revitalise your bodies and zone out your minds in the aptly-named
"Obama Onsen", supposedly 'The hottest hot spa in Japan!' Just don't
forget to wash yourself before you get in.
Dr Philip Sawkins

Nagasaki is a beautiful city to visit and one of the more "international" cities on Kyushu. 24 hours should be more than enough time to have a good explore.

On my list of "must-see" places within the city include the Peace Museum (a very peaceful space, where you can learn more about the causes and effects of the nuclear bomb there) and the Peace Garden (if only for the bizarre 30 foot sky blue statue, meant as a memorial to peace). You can still see some sights of the old city from before the bombing, including "Meganebashi" (Spectacles Bridge), bridging the canal/river winding out of the downtown area. There is a large and vibrant Chinese community within Nagasaki and the Chinatown area is also worth visiting.

I'd also suggest a visit to the old Dutch quarter, Dejima, also located in the downtown area, as well as the beautiful and newly built docklands area.
For an overview of the city, either make your way up the hills behind the hotels opposite the station, or catch a bus from outside the train station to Mt Inasa, where there is a spectacular panoramic view of the city (as an added bonus, the zipline up the hill is pretty terrifying).

If you have time to get a little way out of town, head south towards Shimabara - some of the most unspoilt and beautiful beaches in Kyushu.
Have a good trip, and it's also worth checking up on local festivals while you're out here - the Nagasaki Lantern festival is held around this time of year, although I can't remember offhand the precise date...
Best wishes,
Hannah Millinship

Nagasaki is one of Japan's loveliest towns and tremendously rich in
history. With only 24 hours, I wouldn't even think about leaving the
town. Though the focus used to be on reconciliation after the war,
this has shifted within the past decade to emphasize its role as an
international port from 17th century to 19th century. Dejima (the man-made island where the Dutch lived) has been reconstructed and in the town there
are five Chinese-style temples (and the former Chinese residential
district).

There are also sites relating to the Christian community, the Glover Garden from the late 19th century (associated with Madame Butterfly), and the Peace Park. Together with a new museum, a series of walking tours was designed in 2006 and you should be able to get information from the tourist office.
Rosina

I was there for four days and I had a local taking me about which helped. Things you should do are:
1. Eat the local food- a hybrid of Japanese and Chinese
2. Go to the bomb museum for an understanding of American brutality
3. Visit Chinatown and follow the beautiful river with amazing stone bridges
4. Visit the cool Taoist temples and the Dutch fort
5. I did the cruise and it was good. Mitsubishi factory area, where the Americans were supposed to drop the bomb but missed is impressive, as is the peace bridge.
6. The tourist office sells cool food items
Good luck!
Edward Coombes

Nagasaki is a stunning city. Of course it has its downsides, like they eat whale meat, but Madame Butterfly comes from here too. Read up on the history of Nagasaki as this was the only place in Japan where Japanese could make contact and trade with foreigners.

Amazingly a Scotsman; Thomas Glover, modernized Japan in the late 19th century introducing coal mining, the railway, electricity and even beer! Glover Hill in Nagasaki is named after him where his house and gardens are preserved. In Nagasaki there are beautiful temples, great antique shops, even Castella, a Japanese version of a Portuguese sponge cake from the 16th century.

However in Nagasaki you must go to the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum. It is harrowing as you would expect, but if you visit Nagasaki it is almost your duty as a human being to visit.
Stephen

It might seem strange to suggest you start by getting back on a boat, but the island of Iojima is a 20-minute ferry ride from the downtown Ohato ferry terminal. A short walk from where the ferry arrives is the Yasuragi Iojima onsen, a traditional bathhouse with a range of different styles and temperatures of bath. Sitting in a sunken hinoki (Japanese cypress) bathtub filled with steaming spring water, looking out over the sea is something that you’re unlikely to forget. Japanese spas are quite different from Western ones, so it’s a good idea to read up about onsen etiquette before you go. The ticket for the onsen is extremely cheap- less than 1000 yen, including the return ferry ticket, and can be bought in the Ohato ferry terminal.

Back in Nagasaki City, across the road from the Ohato terminal is Dejima Island (now surrounded by reclaimed land), which once served as the ‘gateway’ to Japan. While the rest of the country was closed to foreigners until 1853, merchants, traders and prostitutes conducted their business on the tiny island. Nowadays, the original wooden buildings on Dejima have been rebuilt, giving visitors an idea of what life must have been like for the earliest European settlers (smelly, cramped and exposed to the elements).

Another historical site that you should visit is the Atomic Bomb Museum and Peace Park. Although many of the tourists visiting Nagasaki will be familiar with the basic timeline of events surrounding the bombing, the museum uses found objects and photographs to show the impact of the blast on individual residents and families. Exhibits include collections of items recovered in the aftermath of the explosion, such as scorched children’s lunch tins and partially destroyed house facades. Although I would recommend it as a ‘must see’, visiting the museum is emotionally draining.

An alternative smaller museum that deals with the impact of the bombing is the Nagai Takashi Memorial Museum. Takashi Nagai was a doctor who worked in Nagasaki with bomb victims, before dying of leukaemia as a result of exposure to radiation. His living quarters have been preserved along with some of his handwritten records including a letter from Helen Keller. This small museum brims with evidence of one man’s personal response to the tragedy in a way the main bomb museum obviously cannot.

Despite recommending the above historical sites, I think the most pleasurable thing to do in Nagasaki, and the best way to get to see the city, is to jump off the tram when a neighbourhood catches your eye and explore. My favourite area was around Suwa-Machi (Kokkaido-Mae tram stop), one of the older districts. Here you can find Megane-Bashi, a double-arch bridge that is said to resemble a pair of spectacles at high tide (and is the oldest stone bridge in Japan), and Tera-Machi, a winding street lined with wooden temples. Behind the temples the crowded cemeteries roll up the hillside into the forest, and snakes can occasionally be found basking on the gravel pathways.

Exploring the narrow streets between Tera-Machi and the river is a great way to spend the afternoon. Nagasaki is a city of quiet beauty, and as you make your way on foot through the old, cluttered neighbourhoods you can discover tiny shops hidden on residential roads selling handmade clothes, second-hand kimonos, mysterious vegetables and castella cake, a local delicacy. This area is peppered with cafes, so is the perfect place to stop for a rest. There are traditional Japanese teashops, French patisseries (Nagasaki takes its French cakes quite seriously) and coffee shops with an infatuation with sleek Scandinavian design. Don’t worry about getting lost while wandering; if you lose your way just head towards the distant rumble of the streetcar.

If you only have one evening in Nagasaki, then one of the best places for dinner is at Dejima Wharf. Along the boardwalk there is a range of restaurants, from Japanese fare to Italian and Chinese. If the evening isn’t too cool then you can sit outside at a table overlooking the bay; during the colder months the restaurants normally provide blankets to wrap up in if you’re determined to get a table with a good view. These restaurants may seem a little touristy, but their location is unbeatable.

To end the day with a panorama of the whole city, head up to Mount Inasa. The easiest way to get there is to take a taxi to the ropeway station, and then a cable car to the hilltop. From the viewing platform at the summit you can see Nagasaki stretching away from the bay, along the narrow valleys between the wooded hilltops, threaded with rivers and canals.

If you have any energy left then the best place to get a drink is in Shianbashi entertainment district, a maze of narrow alleys lined with bolthole drinking establishments. Although the smaller bars will only have drink menus in Japanese, the staff are generally friendly and patient, and the word ‘beer’ is the same in Japanese! One tip for drinking in Japan: avoid anywhere with the word ‘Snack’ in the name, unless you want to pay for the privilege of having a hostess sitting at your table.
Brody
Tokyo


I have just recently been granted a placement at ABA Art in Palma de Mallorca doing their graphic design work and I was hoping someone could help me find the most cheapest and efficient place to stay in Palma for six months. I was thinking a hostel but can't seem to find any.
Jayde Brown

My best tip is to try loquo.com, it's a massive listings site where you can find anything and everything, principally accommodation but also pretty much anything else you could want such as beds, concert tickets, job offers...

I assume Jayde speaks Spanish/Catalan/Mallorqu’n, otherwise if not then she should click on parts of the Vivienda section. I'm not 100% sure that it lists hostels but you can find flats to buy/rent or rooms in apartments. Just give it a whirl - it's probably your best bet!
I hope she enjoys her time there, it's a fantastic island!
Best wishes from Barcelona
Tom Coulton

Go to idealista.com (Compartir, vivienda, Mallorca=shared flat) and have a look. In Spain always the best option is to share a flat - better than living in a hostel. Other options is once in Mallorca have a look in the University premises where you will find board with offered flat shares.
Good luck
Marc
Barcelona

If you're only going for six months a hostel would probably end up costing the earth. Try these property websites: enalquiler.com; fotocasa.es; segundamano.es; milanuncios.com. They've all got search engines to look for flats/houses/flatshares etc. I would imagine that sharing a place would be the most economic way about it, and there's the added bonus of getting to know more people through your future flatmates. Idealista.com has a search option for sharing.
All the best,
Matt Doughty

Try the marinas in Palma and the area. There might be house-sitting jobs or yacht crew wanting to let or sub-let their place whilst they are away for the winter season. Most yacht crews and those involved in the industry are English speaking and they are generally a friendly bunch.
Good luck!
Helen

Try Loquo, which is Spain's best online site for small ads, especially accomodation. There are lots of cheap rooms to rent on there at around the 300 euros a month mark, which is a lot cheaper than any hostel would be. Six month rentals are common, so that would be no problem.
Joe Hodgson
Spain

9 January

I am heading to San Francisco on my own in May and have two main criteria - eat as much of the wonderful food as I can and then burn it off. I'm a keen surfer and cyclist so would love advice on good surf spots and any biking there might be. As for food, can anyone help by recommending specific places? I'm not too keen on guide books but don't want to miss any local gems. Thanks!
Pete

Two Surf spots not to be missed: Linda Mar Beach (Pacifica State Beach) in Pacifica and Miramar Beach (Half Moon Bay State Beach) between El Granada and Half Moon Bay (there's a popular shore break on the northerly, El Granada end).

As for bike trips, there is a nice (2-3 hour) one between these to beaches that takes you over the Montara hillside and down along the coast:

Start and Linde Mar Beach, head up Linda Mar Blvd all the way to the end (Oddstad Blvd), then turn left into Trout Farm Road. This will put you at the base of nice, winding climb up into San Pedro County Park. At the summit, there's a great view up and down the coast. Find your way back down to Montara, then ride onto Moss Beach.

Take a left off the highway onto Vermont Street and ride on until it becomes North Lake Street. You're now at the beautiful Moss Beach Marine Reserve. There are short bike trails, up along the cliff edge, and south through the cypress trees. Follow these until you reach Cypress Ave. Continue in a southerly direction onto Ocean Blvd which will eventually, itself, become a bike trail. This will lead you down along Ross's Cove, towards the Satellite Dish, and to a view of the famous Mavericks surf location (bring your binoculars).

The trail ends at West Point Blvd, but follow this down to the port of Princeton-By-the-Sea; turn onto Princeton Ave and continue south until you reach Capistrano Road, along which you will find Barbara's Fish Trap. Eat. Then make a break for Miramar Beach. Actually, as you ride along south from this point, you can almost turn left off the highway anywhere and have a fruitful wander of the mountainside.

*About 20 miles south of Half Moon Bay. There's another day trip, not to be missed, and in some beautiful California countryside: You can set off from the San Gregorio General Store (really, it's more bucolic than it sounds).

There, you can follow the peaceful, meandering Stage Road south, all the way to the timewarp small town of Pescadero. There you can eat at the landmark Duarte's Restaurant. Fill up on the Cream of Artichoke or Jalepeno Soup (or, ask for the two blended).

Cycle on to the Pescadero Creek Road and turn left. Turn right onto Cloverdale road and ride down one of the most exquisite back roads in California. After 15-20 miles, you'll reach Gazo's Creek Road. Turn right, and this will take you west, back to the highway. Once there, you can either take in the wonderful Pigeon Point Lighthouse or spend the evening at the AMAZING and eco-friendly Costanoa. The food and the rooms are great there, so I'd recommend spending a couple days, especially as there are bike trails galore and also surf locales nearby.

Hope this helps,
DK

One of the best places is Mo's Grill on (1322) Grant Avenue (North Beach end)… it serves fantastic burgers, both meat and veggie with brilliant toppings (I always had the garden burger with mushrooms and onions). They do breakfast too but we only went there in the evening. All the guide books tell you to go to Mama's on Washington Square and yes it is very good but don’t go at the weekend when people queue for ages…go mid week if you can. North Beach is generally pretty good, there are a couple of good little bakeries and one of the best Italian places is Panta Rei Café (431 Columbus Ave) which has the best cherry cheesecake!

There are good coffee shops in the Haight and the Magnolia Pub and Brewery (1398 Haight Street) does good bar food to go with their microbrews.

Though we didn’t cycle or surf there are apparently many good areas for both, best to check out the web but I think up north in Marin county is probably good for cycling and further south for surfing.

Have a great time.
Best,
Nichola

You're likely to be surprised how cold it is. The seashore south of San
Francisco has some great surfing spots (Half Moon Bay for example) but
the water's cold and the surf may be a bit powerful for all but the most
experienced. Consult a local. The temperature will go up rapidly as you head inland.

As for scenic bicycle rides, that's a bit of a no-brainer, you will be
spoilt for choice. You may find riding around parts of the city a chore
unless you're one of those riders who's into hill climbing. The easiest
scenic ride is to take PCH (Route 1) from south of the Golden Gate
bridge south for as long as you are able to do. This road is one of the
more scenic in California, most of it hugs the coast on the way down to
Los Angeles (about 450 miles). You don't have to go all the way, of
course -- it just depends on the amount of time you have and how fit you are.
Martin Usher

If you are heading toward San Francisco then you might want to check out The Loneliest Road in America - Rt 50 through Nevada. It is much better than the interstate, if nothing else - the lack of repetitive signs.

I went through twenty five years ago with my friend Flash, he on his Yamaha 650 and me on my Bonneville. Toward dusk we pulled off on a dirt road that led to the top of a treeless hilltop. We threw out our bed roll and had a perfect view of the valley below. It was utter silence with a sapphire blue sky and a new moon. In the morning Flash didn't bat out his boots (as seen in cowboy movies) and a Scorpion who decided to spend the night there bit him. He was feeling a little queasy so I followed him to the little town of Elko. There, we heard about a guy who might know about scorpion bites, his name was Daniel Bearfoot. He's a turquoise jewellery makers and he gave Flash some hometown remedy. Apparently the bites from these type of scorpions just make you nauseous. We spent about $20 for some Turquoise rings and headed on our way. It's worth checking out.

P.s: Keep the shinny side UP!
Ian Crossley
Belvidere, New Jersey

I am a Londoner who has been lucky enough to call San Francisco home for the last ten years. This city is truly an epicurean capital with no shortage of world class restaurants to chose from. A short BART train ride to Berkley will take you to Alice Waters' world famous Chez Pannise, the main restaurant books out months in advance and has a set menu, however the less formal Cafe upstairs is a much better deal and relatively easy to get a table. In San Francisco the top restaurants are well sign posted (from Quince to Aqua to Gary Danko). It's the local gems that are the real treat, my overall favourite is Firefly in Noe Valley. Others worth considering are Delfina in the Mission, Chapeau in Outer Richmond, Blue Plate in Bernal Heights and Chez Papa in Potrero Hill. With regard to cycling there is an abundance of amazing rides. The Marin Headlands offers the most accessible from the city. But anywhere along Highway 1 north of the city will deliver breath taking rides and great places to refuel - like Olema or Point Reyes Station
The best online resource for restaurant recommendations is yelp.com, which provides user generated reviews.
Tony Hynes

I lived in San Francisco for seven years and can recommend a few
places. Osha, which is in the Mission district and Embarcadero, does
fantastic Thai food. Papalote, also in the Mission, as well as the
Panhandle district, does delicious Mexican food, with amazing chips
and salsa. Then there is also Q in the Richmond district, which does
the best burgers I've had, and also out there is Burma Superstar,
obviously Burmese.

Enjoy.
David

Cycling routes:

1. One of the most enjoyable and beautiful rides starts in the Presidio Park, through which you can access and cross the Golden Gate bridge. After crossing the bridge you have a choice—take the first right (east), down and under the bridge and through Sausalito (and cycle paths then lead across the marshes all the way to Tiburon and beyond). Or go left (west) from the bridge into Marin county, where dirt cycle paths criss-cross the hills, leading all the way out to the Pacific. It is stunning and doesn’t get much better than this. If you’re lucky you might see a mountain lion.

2. Cycle from the city, west through the Panhandle and Golden Gate Park (it will be hard to resist the temptation to stop at the Japanese Gardens, arboretum, or to see the roaming buffalos) several miles until reaching the Pacific, where you can pick up the paved cycle way alongside the coastal ‘great highway.’ I would recommend turning left (south) along the path, cycling to the end of the Sunset district, near the Zoo, where you can lock up your bike and explore on foot the dunes, cliffs, and beaches that extend along the Pacific here—hang gliders are usually launching from the high cliffs in this area and the view up and down the coast is unbeatable. If you opt to go right (north) along the highway, you can explore the Cliff House, the amazing views from Sutro park, and continue along the cliff-edge walk toward the Palace of Legion of Honor and Baker Beach. You can loop back into the city along Lake Street from here.

Food:

1. Avoid Fisherman’s wharf....

2. Best vegetarian restaurant—Greens at Ft Mason (near the Marina). Pricey and you need to book, but truly world class. Also perhaps the best restaurant view in the city (of the bay and GG bridge). Good for a special occasion—but request a table by the windows.

3. Mexican—these abound, but the best cheap, fresh, densely packed burritos are in the Mission, near 16th and 17th Sts (also many other restaurants around there).

4. Chinese—sort of counterintuitive, but avoid Chinatown downtown for eating (though it is worth visiting) and opt instead for Clement St in the Richmond. Harder to get to, but this is the 'real' Chinatown and not so touristy, and the food is better. There’s a wide selection. There's also a very good used bookshop there called Green Apple, on Clement St.

5. Thai—good places all over the city, but if you are out in the Richmond district on Geary Ave., Khan Toke is one of the best known (and best loved) for its excellent food, stylish decor, and its unusual low-level seating.

6. Chez Panisse in Berkeley is also one of most (justifiably) acclaimed dining experiences in the state—and not as expensive as it could be.

7. Coffee: Peet’s is an institution and the coffee lives up to its reputation—around a dozen locations around the city.
Jeff Geiger

The San Francisco food scene is so deep and diverse that the best way to experience it is often to avoid the tourist centers such as Fisherman's wharf and the piers area and venture into one of the many districts. That having been said here are a few gems that should not to be missed. Canteen restaurant on Sutter Street, next to what used to be the old commodore hotel is outstanding. Their menu changes weekly and is seasonal. A recent menu is available on their web site, (sfcanteen.com). Though it should not be counted on to be up to date, it will give you an idea of the kinds of things that you may find. It is a TINY space, (only 20 seats or so), so calling ahead for a reservation is strongly recommended even for a party of one and should be made several days in advance for larger parties. Expect to spend around $40 before wine, tax and tip. I recommend arriving early and heading up the block to Cup-A-Joe for a very reasonable happy hour pint before dinner. If your adventures take you to the Richmond district, (and they should, as it is between golden gate park and the presidio, both fantastic places to cycle), stop into Halu on 8th ave at clement street for some fantastic, non-sushi, Japanese food in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. The owner is in a band and usually has The Beatles, the Stones or similar if smaller bands playing on the sound system. It should also be noted that Halu has a terrific selection of sake.

For burning off those delicious calories the waterfront in the western part of the city provides lots of pleasant cycling including the golden gate bridge which will lead to the Marin headlands and wonderful cycling for as far as one could want. Golden Gate park is in the western part of the city and stretches as far as ocean beach where on pleasant weekend evenings one can find many friendly bonfires and tended by equally friendly folks. The interior of the city is also ripe for cycling though traffic can make it considerably more treacherous. If you have the time, San Francisco is a very walkable city. For sightseeing exercise I recommend starting anywhere and walking uphill. At each intersection you come to choose the steepest uphill direction. When all roads lead down take a moment to look around and enjoy some of the best views of the city to be found.
Ben M

Here are a few tips for great cheap eateries that provide Salvadorean flavours not so common in the UK and a taste of Indian food that can't be beat in the San Francisco Bay Area:

Balompie Cafe
3349 18th Street
San Francisco

This is the place to try Salvadorean cuisine. The breakfasts are a great start to the day with chorizo con huevos -- spicy sausage with scrambled eggs -- beats the traditional English breakfast. The best lunch and dinner plates are called "traditional plates," such as pupusas, griddled corn cakes filled with cheese and topped with vinegary slaw. You might try steamed or fried yucca, served with pork, or pacayas, a kind of vegetable that's a bit like spaghetti squash. Oh, and you can catch football on the telly during World Cup season too.

Vik's Chaat Corner
726 Allston Way
Berkeley
Tues - Sun 11am until 8pm (I think)

This chaat (translates literally as "lick") Indian cafe is a special East Bay scene. At lunchtimes during the week, the menu includes special plates, with daily rotating curries, rice, dahl, and chutneys, and a crowd of local professionals. At the weekend, the families arrive from Silicon Valley, sometimes by the busload, enticed by an expanded menu that includes an absolutely wonderful chicken biryani, as well as masala dosa. Their famous speciality though is Bhatura Cholle, a huge puffed ball of fried bread, served with pickles and a delicious chickpea curry sauce. Not to mention fabulous chai, a wonderful collection of Indian sweets, and bhangra or Bollywood music to complete the authentic atmosphere.

I'm not a surfer so no tips there but I can point you to some friendly cyclists, the Grizzly Peak Cycling Club. They have great routes, rides, and even a century race, held each year in May. Contact them via their website: Grizzly Peak Cycling Club

Have fun!
Cheers, Katy Shotton

One of my favourite places in San Fran is Mocca's deli in Maiden Lane just moments from Union Sq.

The tri tip sandwich is to absolutely die for, but to be honest, everything here is great. The tomoto soup, the sea food salad, the chicken sandwich.....I could go on, but my mouth is salivating. Plus its a great place to eat alfresco and just watch San Fran go by.
Tim Harris

Here are a great site for a 'foodie' to visit prior to any food-oriented trip to SF: chowhound.com
Go into the SF/Bay Area board, post your criteria (location, price, ethnicity, decibile levels,dates) and you'll soon have plenty of specific recommendations..

Because some of the best of our many restaurants can go
out of business at the drop of a hat, guidebooks become obsolete
rather quickly, here is another site that can give you the latest
'uphill' or 'downhill' report on any of those you're researching: yelp.com
Again, refine by San Francisco restaurants and you'll be fine.

Good luck and have fun in our fair city.
Sharon

Far and away the best place you will ever have breakfast is at Mama's, on Washington Square. The queue starts forming around 7.15 on Sunday, as brunch there is nothing short of divine. You would do well to be there by 7.30. All the component parts of a good American breakfast can be had there, and the specials always have something tempting and interesting on offer. The location, on Washington Square, is only a short walk away from Vesuvio, a renowned Beat Generation watering hole that opens its doors at 6 AM. Just enough time for a few Bloody Mary's before joining the queue at Mama's... perfect.

Mama's
1701 Stockton Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94133
+1 415 362 6421

Cheers,
Nika Obydzinski

Exclusively about food:

The lovely thing about San Francisco is its neighbourhoods. If you spend even a little while wandering you'll get a good sense of how distinctive areas are.

You're probably going to get lots of big name recommendations (probably all fantastic) but seek out the local, low key but still excellent establishments which allow you to experience a bit of neighbourhood life.

The Mission District is very active and exciting and has some great places to eat. Very good authentic Mexican food at Puerto Alegre, 546 Valencia Street. Very good margaritas. Cheap and a great atmosphere. Nearby, Delfina, 3621 18th Street, has very good, Italian style cuisine. There's a main restaurant and a less formal pizzeria next door to one another. I think the pizzeria better; it's still elegant, but much livelier and easygoing. Just down the street is Tartine Bakery, on the corner of 18th and Guerrero. It's a great place for a breakfast of pastries and they do a beautiful bread pudding. They bake bread three days a week and there's always a line out the door. Their sesame bread is delicious. Cole Valley is a classic San Francisco neighbourhood, close to Duboce Park and Haight Ashbury but hidden to most visitors. Zazie is a great local french restaurant which is good for brunch or an excellent evening meal, 941 Cole Street.

If you're going to San Francisco you have to go to Berkeley, and if you're there you'll have to go to the "gourmet ghetto", home of Alice Water's famous Chez Panisse. Over the road from Chez Panisse is the Cheeseboard Pizzeria. A collectively owned and operated vegetarian pizzeria. Also cheap but delicious.

Have a great time and happy eating.
Alan

Although there are some excellent Chinese and Thai options in SF I'd firstly recommend The Stinking Rose - a restaurant by Chinatown/Northbeach that specialises in garlic dishes. My wife and I moved to SF from London in the mid-90's and this was always the place we wanted to eat in - thestinkingrose.com. As for cycling, just peddle over the Golden gate and into Marin, Take the underpass at the far end of the bridge and head up into the hills overlooking the ocean. It's heaven. Have fun.
John

I visited San Francisco last summer and highly recommend Pacific Catch which specializes in fresh fish dishes. There are three restaurants around the bay area, but we visited the Marina which served mouthwatering Mahi Mahi and I think you will enjoy it after all the physical exertions of biking and surfing. This is an absolute gem, and not to be missed.

Have a great time.
Sajjad, London

I recently travelled with a friend on the classic Californian road trip up Highway 1 from LA to San Francisco, with the intention of surfing and eating as much as possible. My two prime recommendations after an amazing week in the city would be to surf the north end of Ocean Beach on a rising tide. A beach break with plenty of room to handle the crowds, with a decent swell there are right and lefts breaking Hossegor style and a decent vibe in the water. I surfed approaching dusk and it felt quite sharky, but the other surfers in the water were friendly and reassuring in their number and seeming lack of concern at the men in grey suits beneath the waves!

A good session was bettered only by dinner at local french restaurant Plouf, located in a delightfully atmospheric pedestrian only corridor besieged by similar looking restaurants in the financial district, all of which looked good. Plouf got our vote for its superb seafoods (the moules were superb), extensive wine list and the brilliant contrast of its staff, from the typically French waiter who clearly considered it below him to wait on us to the extremely friendly hostess Devon, who joined us for coffee and sightseeing tips after dessert. The later you dine, the better the atmosphere - we ate around 9.30 and it was perfect.

Enjoy!
Duncan Madden

My favorite source of food information in major metro areas in the U.S.A. is Chowhound. This includes San Francisco, Chicago, New York, New Orleans and other areas in the U.S. They also cover foreign locations but I'm not overly familiar with those at this time.
Munn

First: don't call it "San Fran". If you say that while there you might get thrown out.

Food:
Best Sushi:
Ebisu on 9th and Irving
Sebo in Hayes Valley

Best Oysters and California Chardonnay spots:
Foreign Cinema on Mission St.
Hog Island Oyster Co. in the Ferry Building at Market and Embarcadero

Best Cheap Stuff:
Taqueria Cancun at 19th and Mission
Tulan Vietnamese at 6th and Market
Yum Yum Sushi at Irving and 23rd
Chow at Church and Market

Best Chinese:
Old Mandarin at Vicente and 42nd St. in the Sunset

Best Late Night greasy stuff:
Sam's on Broadway and Colombus in North Beach
Bacon Wrapped Hot Dogs, sold at from push carts, usually around 19th and Mission, or outside the Rickshaw, on weekend nights.

My Qualifications: I grew up in San Francisco and have lived there off and on my entire life.

Have fun!
Mathew

I travel regularly to San Francisco for work, and I always make a point of returning to restaurant on Russian Hill, which I was introduced to by a West Bay local. Since then, I have mentioned it to many a San Franciscan foodie who concurs...this is the best unknown "Neighbourhood" Restaurant in the city. So here you go (just keep it to yourself):

Frascati Restaurant
1901 Hyde Street (and Green)
San Francisco, CA
94109
Frascatisf.com
*booking is necessary

Yours,
Marc Tumson

For a retro style diner, try the 24hr Pine Crest on Geary. It has a large window which makes for great viewing on city life while you tuck in to traditional favourites like chili and french toast. If you like BBQ, then you can't go wrong with Memphis Minnies on Haight. Its a bit out of the way, but worth a stop-off on the way to, or from Haight-Ashbury. The mixed plates are great value and allow you to try combinations of the best BBQ in SF.
Lee

I moved from Europe to San Francisco one year ago. I can recommend
three places:

Anchor and Hope Fish House
63 Minna Street, Off Second Street
SOMA
San Francisco
415-501-9100

Excellent fish and seafood (try the oysters), great wine list,
interesting room. Can be nice to sit at the 35 foot zinc bar and watch
as the sous chefs prepare the ingredients.

Cafe Zoetrope
916 Kearny Street,
North Beach
San Francisco
415-291-1700

In the famous 1906 Sentinel Building, Francis Ford Coppola's bistro
serves great antipasto (try the Picada tray) pastas (try the superb
Carbonara or the Linguine Vongole), pizzas (try the Tony Special or
the Sophia) and specials (try the Chicken Cattitori). Excellent
Coppola wines you'll only find here or at the Napa winery. The room is
filled with memorabilia from classic Coppola films including
Apocalypse Now and The Godfather. Weekdays you'll find Peter, a true
denizen North Beach, tending the bar.

Mo's
1322 Grant Street,
North Beach
San Francisco
415-788-3779
North Beach

If you want a great breakfast and don't want to wait on line (why do
people do that?) stroll in Mo's. Try the blueberry and banana pancakes
(sweet) or the scrambled eggs with tomato and scallion (savory). Also
a great place for hamburgers. Most food is cooked on an interesting
revolving grill.
Jerry

One Market. Right on the bottom of Market, opposite the Ferry building. Superb. Not cheap though, although to be honest nowhere in SFO is cheap, with the exception of Denny's :-)
John Bracken

If you ask any reputable chef when it comes to food, who is an inspiration?, then most will undoubtedly include Alice Waters in their list. Her restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California has been described as the birthplace of Californian cuisine and it really does live up to its reputation. It is a Mecca for foodies probably because of the intelligent preparation and cooking of local ingredients, which are organic and ecologically harvested, that sounds a bit extreme but the proof is in the tasting. Last time there I had Winter squash and chestnut risotto with caramelized pears, Becker Lane pork shoulder braised with juniper in Riesling, with savoy cabbage and apples and celery root and parsnip purée, bittersweet chocolate fondant with prune and Armagnac ice cream. Delicious! There is a restaurant downstairs and a less expensive café upstairs. The menu changes daily. No visit to San Francisco is complete without a visit here and if you don't make it? You can be sure that any other eaterie you stop by in has been influenced or has someone who has previously worked at Chez Panisse. I rest my case.

Chez Panisse Restaurant and Café
1517 Shattuck Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94709-1516

Thanks,
Robert Smith

If your on your own in San Fran how about Teppanyaki? Japanese food cooked at the table (the chefs put on a great show) and if you’re on your own it’s a great way to meet people as tables are usually for 8, but often made up of smaller groups and sole diners.

Benihana, Japantown, Pacific Heights is good value and one of the most popular in town, with a not too bad Sake selection.

Benihana
Pacific Heights
1737 Post Street
(between Buchanan St & Webster St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 563-4844

Another option if you like garlic is The Stinking Rose. It’s a garlic restaurant located on Columbus Avenue, and great for Californian-Italian, all of which is prepared and adorned with garlic (they serve 3000 pounds of the herb each month): thestinkingrose.com

Regards,
Jonathan Dyke

If you have a sweet tooth I would highly recommend renting a bike and cycling over the Golden Gate to Sausalito. There you will find an amazing sweet shop which sells delicious Saltwater Taffy in all colours and flavours, from big open buckets. The best thing: you're allowed to sample everything!
Still makes me drool.

Best wishes,
Alex

Amazing food and calorie-burning are probably two of San Francisco's most easily enjoyed pleasures. One's entire visit could be spent ricocheting between the city's neighbourhood cafes and restaurants, by way of its many hills, waterside walkways and bike paths.

In terms of food, there is a slew of restaurants serving what could be called, broadly, California / New American cuisine, with an emphasis on freshness, local sourcing and seasonality. The best of these include Range, a top-notch, Michelin-starred yet informal restaurant in the heart of the Mission district, with a small, rotating menu, excellent staff and some of the most innovative cocktails in the city. The wine list is pretty interesting as well. Salt House, downtown, and Nopa, near the Lower Haight, are two slightly hipper venues serving a similar style of food to slightly younger crowds. Both of these are open late, which is somewhat of a rarity in the city, and have fun bar scenes in addition to consistently solid daily menus. Zuni Cafe, though slightly more touristy than the others, is still considered the best, most classic option for this sort of dining experience.

If California cuisine starts to bore, which probably will happen, there are plenty of other options. For the freshest local oysters on a nice, sunny day, head to the Ferry Building and grab a waterside table at Hog Island Oyster Company. The best banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich) and one of my all-time favourite 'meals' can be found in the heart of the grubby Tenderloin at Saigon Sandwich. The prices are suspiciously low but the line reassuringly long; be prepared to bark your order from the back of the line to the women serving spicy chicken and pork sandwiches behind the counter. Saigon Sandwich has no seating, so take your banh mi to a bench in the park facing City Hall, a few blocks south. Another cheap but fulfilling street snack that is essential for any visit to San Francisco is the Mission burrito. There's a lot of debate about who dishes the best carnitas or carne asada-stuffed tortillas, but my personal favorites have always been Pancho Villa (16th Street) and La Corneta (Mission Street). Finally, for sushi, it's still hard to beat Ebisu, one of the best in the city and not too pricey. Take the N-Judah Muni train to the charming, laid-back Inner Sunset neighborhood and be prepared to wait in line to get some of the city's freshest fish. An excellent version of cioppino, San Francisco's tomatoey seafood stew, is usually on the menu at Pesce on upper Polk Street.

I would also put in a good word for San Francisco's coffee. Blue Bottle, which runs a kiosk in an alleyway in Hayes Valley, is one of the best and the atmosphere is familial and pleasant. Ritual (packed) and Four Barrel -- both on Valencia in the Mission -- take coffee seriously and have lots of seating for reading or internet-browsing.

As far as calorie-burning, simply walking to and from each of these places should do the trick. Surfing conditions are notoriously variable, though most of my surfer friends seem to vacillate between the smaller waves in the Sunset district-stretch of Ocean Beach, on the city's west side, and the small surfing communities directly to the south of the city (though these would be harder to get to without a car). For cycling, there are a number of beautiful but very challenging paths in the Presidio. Traversing the Golden Gate Bridge from the City is still one of the most invigorating cycling routes I've taken. Once across the bridge, you could continue up the western coast of the Pacific some miles to Stinson Beach. For a slightly easier ride, continue east along the bay once across the bridge and take the detour to Sausalito. The town is quaint if a little touristy, but also offers the opportunity to take a ferry back to the city if you're completely wiped out from the ride over.
Gregory

I can't really help you on the surf and cycling front but on the food.....

Best Burrito:
Tommy tequila, 5929 Geary and 25th, tommystequila.com - best tequlia selection in the world and has become a SF institution

Puerto Allegre, 529 Valencia. Proper authentic mexican food and surroundings, great location and best jugs of margaritas

El Castillito 136 Church Street. My personal favourite for just a good on burrito and a can of root beer

Best Burger:
In 'n Out Burger, 333 Jefferson St - ask for your fries Animal style

21st-amendment.com - go before or after a game for best atmosphere and wash down with a pint of 21A IPA

Best Restaurant:
Chow

Probably my favourite restaurant in the whole wide world. Simple great food, nice people, the one next to the park is probably the best setting, especially upstairs. Be nice after a bike ride.

The best thing about San Francisco is it is almost impossible to find bad food anywhere.

Thanks and have a great time.
Tom Ward

One of my favourites would have to be Revolution Cafe (22nd Street and
Bartlett Street) in the Mission district. Nifty little spot with
smashing sandwiches and the most bit-part crowd you're likely to see.
Marc

Raw vegan food: Cafe Gratitude (I am NOT vegan, but I love this
place)....2400 Harrison St, San Francisco, CA 94110 or 1336 9th Ave, San
Francisco, CA 94122. There is one in Berkeley too.

Crab: Crustacean 1475 Polk Street San Francisco, CA 94109 or Thanh Long
4101 Judah Street( corner of 46th Avenue) San Francisco, CA 94122 - Get
Garlic Noodles and Crab

East Bay (Oakland) cheap Sunday lunch with style: Thai Buddhist Temple,
1911 Russell St, Berkeley 94703

Best beers (though the place is a dive....) Toronado, 547 Haight, San
Francisco,94117 - that's LOWER Haight, not up by the park and Amoeba...

Not telling you where the best sushi is - its a small place and I want
to be able to get a table still....
Neil

There's a good surfing spot in the Pacifica/Lindamar area due south of
San Francisco. If you feel like traveling further, about an hour south
of the city, there's always one of the top surf towns in the world,
Santa Cruz. There's a world renowned surfing spot there called Pleasure
Point. Check out the several sites with wave reports before you go.
There are rental shops in both those locations.

As far as food, I recommend several spots on Clement St. in the
Richmond District: Burma Superstar is a popular choice. Try any of the
taquerias in the Mission, the Indian food in the Tenderloin, and Italian
in North Beach. There's no shortage to choose from. Try a site called
Yelp that has reviews of every conceivable place here in San Francisco.
Ask any of the locals, they are usually more than happy to give advice.
Pete

There's great Mexican food in the Mission District. Grab a Burrito at El Faralito at 24 and Mission... Cheap local grub... Whatever you do. DO NOT surf at Ocean beach. A Scottish bloke who thought it would be cool to surf in California died a few years back. In fact don't surf anywhere around here. This is Northern California - not LA. The surfers around here are hard-core, coldwater dudes...
Jimmy

I've just spent five days in San Francisco, and my top tips for anyone looking for good food around Union Square would be: Uncle Vito's (700 Bush Street) has good, honest, inexpensive pizza (best by the slice if you're on the go, walking up to or down from Nob Hill). Sanraku (704 Sutter St) has sublime sushi, with friendly service and an impressive Saki list... (if you pick one thing from this list, pick it!). Akiko's on Powell (near Saks) is a good hole-in-the-wall for a quick sushi lunch. Fish & Farm (339 Taylor St) has great locally produced food, much of it organic, simply prepared. A little further south, Amber (25 Yerba Buena Lane) has very tasty Indian food (classy decor, good service, inexpensive). Walk the Tenderloin district to find hole-in-the-wall establishments, and trust those that seem to have a local following.
Andrew van der Vlies

San Francisco restaurants can be very pricey - I will try to recommend inexpensive to moderate places that are hospitable to solo travellers.

1. Hamburgers, etc (late night): Frankie' Bohemian Café [Divisadero at Pine]; Baghdad Café [Market at Noe]; Grubstake [Pine between Polk St. and Van Ness]; Sparky's [Church St. near Market]; Mel's Diners [several in the City].

2. French (moderate prices): Baker Street Bistro (near Lombard and the Presidio Gate); Chez Nous (Upper Fillmore near Bush St.)

3. Burmese: Mandalay (California at 6th Avenue, Richmond District)

4. Chinese (authentic: i.e. not touristy or oriented to western tastes): Lucky Fortune (22nd Avenue and Geary Blvd.); Ocean (Clement St. and 9th(?) Avenue)

5. Pizza: Pauline's [Valencia near 14th Street]; Red Star Pizza [Divisadero near Golden Gate Ave. and Eddy].

6. German: Suppenkuchen [Hayes at Laguna Street] - moderate prices, but great beers and friendly atmosphere at the communal tables; Walzwerk [South Van Ness between 14th and 15th Street].

7. Sushi: Warubune [Church St. at 15th Street]; Nagano's [Geary Blvd. at 2nd Avenue - south side of the street]

8. Spanish: Esperpento (tapas) [ 22nd Street between Valencia and Bartlett]

9. Peruvian: Fresca [Fillmore between California and Sacramento Streets]
Cyrus

Some San Francisco food hotspots, for me, are House of Nanking Chinese restaurant (their service is gruff but their food is great) and The Stinking Rose garlic restaurant in the Financial District, Escape From New York on Haight Street for its delicious pizzas whole or by-the-slice (especially the 'You Say Potato' pie) and Mama's on Washington Square for its mouthwatering breakfasts (with a line out of the door to prove it), to name only a few. I certainly doubt you'll be disappointed by the range of great restaurants and diners. As for working it all off - biking across the Golden Gate bridge, as I'm sure you will, is an incredible experience. Try carrying on a little further on when the bridge ends and you'll find the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, a popular cycling spot, and Sausalito, which has some pictureque waterfront views and a thriving artist community. Enjoy your trip!
Adam Burton

I lived there for seven years and now live in NYC.

Marin County (just across the Golden Gate Bridge)
Point Reyes National Seashore
An absolutely beautiful to cycle to or drive to and cycle within is Point Reyes National Seashore. It is defies description so just go. You can cycle there from SF, but I would probably drive there and cycle around the park and the surrounding area.

Following you bike ride head to the next town Point Reyes Station where you can get a fantastic pint and burger (or more heathly, but also organic food) at Station House Cafe.

After lunch walk around and definitely go to Cowgirl Creamery and taste killer cheeses, grab a cookie at Bovine Bakery and maybe a souvenir at Toby's.

There are spots to surf out there too, but the surf is pretty rough and there are shark incidents.

Bolinas is a cool town outside of SF on your way to Point Reyes. That is a very popular surf spot as is Stinson Beach right next to Bolinas. It is also a good cycling spot.

In SF:
Definitely go to the Farmer's Market on Saturday morning and eat and drink to your heart's content.

Farmer's Market at the Ferry Plaza
Acme Bread
Cowgirl Creamery
Blue Bottle Coffee
Hayes Valley Grill (great egg, bacon and tomatoe on a baguette)
Primavera (great Mexican breakfast)
Boulette's Larder (amazing)

Food Spots in SF
Delfina
A-16 (FT did a review of them. Great spot)
NOPA
Gary Danko (high end)
Citizen Cake

Fun bike ride is to bike over the Golden Gate Bridge bike the headlands and then grab lunch and a drinks at Sam's on the deck.

Have fun. Feel free to email with questions.
Margaret

A place I was really surprised to have had good food in San Francisco is Beretta on Valencia and 23rd. If you like Italian food I really recommend it (and I'm Italian, so... ;-)
Bye
Federica

If you can book in advance, do not miss Alice Waters seminal Chez
Panisse across the bay. Sorry that this is in every guide book, but
it really is worth the expense and planning, a beautiful Arts & Craft
dining room and wonderful food and the reason why SF has such a
foodie aura. Another high-end eatery worth the effort is Slanted
Door, on the Embarcadero.

On the other end of the spectrum, Yu-et Lee's, is a hole in the wall Chinese restaurant, lauded by Calvin Trillian.

My favourite Chinese however is in Noe Valley, called Eric's, a very tasty compromise between Californian cuisine and deep fried protein.

Other places - Cafe Trieste - a beat era cafe still going worth the
visit for atmosphere. Personally, I also like Puerto Allegra on 16th
street for Margareritas and Mexican, but everyone has their
favourites. Crepes on Cole deserves a visit for a cheap friendly
local brunch.

Two resources - yelp.com/ and opentable.com/ - invaluable reviews. SF's restaurant scene changes reasonably rapidly - Yelp takes care of the on the ground reviews, and Opentable gets you reservations in most (not all, eg Chez Panisse).

I wish I could give you some more recent rising stars, but since we
have an 18mth old, we haven't eat out more than twice in two years...
Winton (SF resident since 2001)

A great place that is full of life as well as food is The Fisherman's Terminal on the Embarcadaro. You not only find some great restaurants and food stalls, there are also wonderful places to buy just about anything a foodie could want. And if it is a nice day, sitting outside with a view of the bay can't be beat. I could live there!!
Cheri

For Pete, the cyclist and surfer, we recommend the Grand Cafe in San
Francisco for dinner. On Geary Street, and only 2-3 blocks from Union
Square, we ate there twice just before Christmas and enjoyed
excellent food and wine, and outstanding service. There is a cafe/bar
and a restaurant. Both are well worth a visit. So is the Urban Tavern
at the Hilton on O'Farrell. After returning from SF we learned that
it had been featured in the most recent edition of Elle Decor.

For lunch, try the cafe at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art or
the Samovar Tea Lounge in nearby Yerba Buena Gardens. They, too, are
both worth a visit.
Martin and Kim,
Washington, DC

I’m a Brit who moved to San Francisco seven years ago, and who adores food. So here are my tips:

If you want the very best in classic Californian cooking, with a nod to Italy and with some local neighbourhood feel, book now for a table at Delfina. Skip dessert and walk just a few minutes along 18th street for the city’s greatest home made ice cream at the Buy Rite Creamery, and be sure to have the salted caramel.

One of the restaurants that pioneered California’s organic food movement is Zuni café, and many of its dishes are legendary, particularly the roast chicken with warm bread salad, the finest Caesar salad I have ever tasted, the hand rolled gnocchi, and the oysters. Start the evening with a glass of wine at a fantastic little wine bar/art gallery around the back, called Hotel Biron.

Some of the best meals I have ever had in San Francisco weren’t at up-scale restaurants, but at places that are more unassuming and off-the-beaten track. There are hundreds to choose from, but some of my favourites are Pagolac (one of the best kept secrets; a tiny but stylish Vietnamese restaurant in the “Little Saigon” section of a somewhat gritty part of town called The Tenderloin; the legendary Burma Superstar on Clement Street (a street packed with Asian groceries and restaurants, as well as one of the best bookstores, Green Apple); and Sam Tung for the finest steamed dumplings on earth.

My four other top tips are Emmy’s Spaghetti shack, which has a tin roof, a clothes line, live DJs, street art, and a superb menu ranging from super tasty and cheap meatballs and spaghetti through to serious entrees (it might well be the hippest spot in the city); Front Porch for the crab and polenta; Little Star, which is famous for divine deep dish pizza with a cornmeal crust; and Nopa, a high end late night stylish neighbourhood place that has been buzzing since it recently opened, and that has won some awards already.

I’m going to leave you with my tips for two world class cocktail joints that are bringing back traditional recipes from the era of Prohibition: the Alembic, and Bourbon and Branch. Get to the Alembic early, as it fills up fast, and be sure to have their Blood and Sand (the food is also first rate). At Bourbon and Branch, you need to book a table (they give you a password that you have to recite for entry, which is all very speakeasy; the décor is wonderful).

Happy eating and drinking!
Gavin

Check out Mel's drive in Van Ness Avenue that I tested in December 2005. The place looks like a 1950s restaurant with Spanish cooking and music. In fact the people working there are more Mexicans than Spanish!

My point of view is Spain hasn't really got good food...
With kind regards,
Jorge-efrain

Ah, having just returned from four days in “The City” I recommend the following:

Fog City Diner: Located on The Embarcadero at Battery Street, Fog City offers casual dinning in New American cuisine. 1300 Battery Street, San Francisco Phone: (415) 982-2000

Buena Vista Cafe: Located near Fisherman’s Wharf at the end of the Hyde & Powell Street Cable Car line, you must stop and warm up with their famous Irish Coffee drinks. 2765 Hyde St, San Francisco. Phone: (415) 474-5044‎.

Kuleto's: Located one block south of Union Square offers Northern Italian cuisine including house-made pastas, traditional Italian salads, fresh fish and flavourful meats. 221 Powell St San Francisco. Phone: (415) 397-7720
Michael

The burritos in the mission district are unmissable, and the size of your forearm. I don't know enough about the subtleties of steamed v. grilled to rule on which is the best taqueria, but these two come pretty close: Taqueria Cancun on Mission at 19th & El Farolito on Mission at 24th. If you prefer to eat at a table rather than on the street, Delfina is the locals' tip, best Italian food I've eaten, at 18th & Guerrero. I can't recommend any surfing or cycling spots, but I can suggest places to eat near beaches! The Parkside Cafe at Stinson beach is much better than it looks, order the Mexican specials. And drive further into Marin to the Pine Cone Diner in Point Reyes for brunch in a proper 1950's diner.
Kate Ball

Try Jacqueline's in North Beach for a wonderful meal. This small piece of heaven provides a menu of divine soufflés that you’ll remember for life.
Gareth Johnstone
Sheffield

So close to the coast it would be rude not to have some seafood. I went to SF late in 2008 and found Scoma's seafood straight out of the bay. Brilliantly fresh fish, and a wide range of dishes. Run by Italian Americans, there are platters, seafood pastas, soups, or simply fish. A vegetarian friend came with us and he was catered for perfectly too. Some of the best seafood I've ever had, and being down on Pier 47 a great atmosphere too.
Plus there was a Hooters nearby (ahem).
Seriously, has to be done.
Ollie
Madrid

Last year we made a trip to San Francisco. We were supposed to move on
to Yosemite Park, but we fell in love with the city and decided to
stay for a full five days. In those five days we ate at least four
times at the 'House Of Nanking'. I can only speak in superlatives of
this restaurant. The place itself looks like any ordinary Chinese
restaurant, but - oh the food! No need to order, just tell the waiter
or waitress what you like to eat, sit back and wait for the plates to
arrive. My boyfriend and I never ate Chinese food like this before,
the taste is so unique. Despite good intentions, we did not manage to
leave without overeating a single time as everything is so delicious.
We would travel back to SF just to eat at the House of Nanking again.

If you still have space for breakfast the morning after visiting House
Of Nanking, Dottie's True Blue Cafe is the place to go - even if the
Tenderloin district may not seem too inviting. Lines form outside the
cafe every morning but it is well worth the wait. The breakfast menu
is overwhelming and the food certainly matches the high expectations
with home made bread and huge portions of all the classic American
breakfast dishes.

Enjoy!
Zuzana

For breakfast, go to Mamas at 1701 Stockton St (head for Washington Square), an absolute gem. Zagat's describe it as the best breakfast in SF and I'd agree. Arrive early or be prepared to wait.

For evenings, try Roys at 575 Mission - delicious.

The whole Fisherman's Wharf area is a bit touristy but the seafood is probably better than most on offer in the UK.

Cycling, if nothing else, be sure to ride over the Golden Gate Bridge.

Enjoy it, a great city
David

I visited SF several years ago and one of the places that I will absolutely revisit should I ever return is Dottie's True Blue cafe.

Go there for breakfast (but remember to turn up early and be prepared to queue!) and try their pancakes, French toast, burgers - in fact, we went there almost every day after we discovered the place!

Another great place to eat is Green's restaurant - a vegetarian restaurant that serves great food, but the best thing about it is the view of the Golden Gate bridge. Green's is right on the water, so if you're lucky you can book a window seat at sunset and watch the last rays of the sun pierce the fog under the Golden Gate bridge while you eat.

Dottie's is at 522 Jones St, while Green's can be found at the Fort Mason Center, Building A.

Hope these help!
Matt

The Mission District is hipster paradise these days and features delicious food at unassuming prices.

I would like to recommend two cheap but worthy candidates.

1) Papalote: this is "Mission-style" Mexican food, a staple of Northern California dining. Absolutely everything they sell is a treat. The salsa in particular is so good you can purchase it separately to take away.

2) Frijtz: Belgian pomme frittes served with flavoured mayonaises, omelletes and Biere Blanche. Perfect base for an evening of drinks.
Regards,
Deborah Mancino

There's lots of great biking around San Francisco. The classic tourist route is to rent a bike in Fisherman's Wharf and ride over the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito (about 10 miles) and then taking the ferry back. If you're a keen cyclist you probably won't be happy with the rental bikes there though - they are clunky hybrids, poorly maintained (in my admittedly limited, but very disappointing) experience. If you want a nice bike you might prefer bringing your own, or investigating online if somewhere rents out decent bikes. For longer and more challenging trips, try heading up into the Marin headlands - head left off the Golden Gate Bridge up Conzelman Road and follow it over the hills to Rodeo Lagoon and the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Or go through Sausalito to Mill Valley, and then head up Mount Tamalpais for amazing views in all directions. A ride from the city center will be about 40 miles return. The San Francisco Bicycle Coalition (sfbike.org) have links to many online maps from their resources page, and you could also check out www.bikely.com for ideas.

Whether you want a pre-ride breakfast, or a post ride feast, you'll find something for pretty much any budget and palate. If you want a burrito to power you up the steep hills, you could do worse than check out Taqueria Cancun or La Corneta in the Mission district. My favourite dinner spots include Zuni Cafe, Chapeau! and Michael Mina. But there are so many restaurants that even after three years living here I feel like I'm still constantly trying new places, and only rarely eat somewhere more than once. Yelp.com is an incredibly popular site where people rate restaurants, bars, services and more. Look up your hotel, or look up your favourite kind of food and see which places serve it.
Magnus

Pete will need to get outside SF to get the surf in and to get decent cycling. 75 miles down the coast (south) is Santa Cruz which is a surfing and cycling Mecca. Beginning to expert surf spots exist in the Santa Cruz area along with plenty of surf shops to rent boards. Plenty of challenging mountain bike trails exist in the Santa Cruz mountains as well as some great roads to ride.

On top of this there is a happening music/club scene and plenty of very good eateries.
Bob
Santa Cruz

Spotted the query about good (yeah - calorific!) eats in SF, and feel compelled to recommend two places (they're not big secrets, btw):

Universal Cafe - place of infinite yumminess in The Mission District. Tried to go to their website and was turned back at the digital stanchion by my not possessing the latest version of flash (irritating, as I could swear I downloaded the latest version not two weeks ago . . . ). Instead, I turned to reliable yelp.com, which had a number of nice reviews and pictures.

Tartine Bakery. Also in The Mission. Big weekend scene. Great coffee, great croissant, etc. Go lie in the grass in nearby Dolores Park if it's sunny. Voila'.

Also on yelp.com are reviews of many of what I'm sure are fantastic taco joints in the city. If I were you, I'd try these out.
Bon Appetit, bonne voyage!
Tracey

We were in San Francisco in the summer of 2005 and ate at an excellent seafood restaurant called Pier Market seafood restaurant on Pier 39 at Fisherman's Wharf. The meals are very filling and good value for what you get. My partner really enjoyed the chowder, I loved my shrimp brochette. The desserts are big and if you can't eat it all they will give you a doggy bag! Enjoy your trip!
Elisabeth Telcs

All the well-known places to eat will be listed in books and online, but the best place you're not likely to stumble on by yourself is brunch at Ella's; 500 Presidio St and California St. They do serve dinner, but brunch is amazing. The menu changes weekly, and the ingredient combinations they come up with for omelettes are divine. Don't leave without trying a buttermilk biscuit - a bit like a scone, but lighter and fluffier.

You don't say whether you want road biking or mountain biking, but for the latter, Tamarancho is one of the premium places in the Bay Area. It's up in the North Bay, and owned by the Boy Scouts, so you have to pay a $5 fee, but it's worth it. Don't do it if you don't have skills (if you're not sure if you have skills, don't do it). More info at boyscouts-marin.org/, or from any bike shop in the Fairfax area.

For a no-skills-but-a-lot-of-lung-power-required (mountain) bike ride, visit the Marin Headlands. The views are amazing, and if it's foggy, many of the hills are high enough that you'll actually be above the fog. Info here: nps.gov/goga/marin-headlands.htm

Have a great trip!
Jen

Cha Cha Cha at Shrader Street in the Haight-Ashbury district is my all time favourite place to eat in San Francisco. It's a mix of Caribbean and South/Central American food which is reasonably cheap and always excellent. For me though, it's as much about the atmosphere as it is the food. For a solo traveller, this is a great place to sit at the bar with a sangria and enjoy a chat with the friendly and relaxed bar staff and customers or just people-watch and soak up the fun of the place.

If you cycle from the city over the Golden Gate Bridge to Marin, a good tip is to get the ferry back from either Sausalito or Tiburon. These ferries are set up to take a lot of bicycles but they're much cheaper than any of the official tour boats and the views are just as spectacular.

Have fun!
Janet

Lucky you Pete, wouldn't mind going myself.

SF is our favourite city in the world - has everything, and you can WALK around it! No need for cars!

Food you'll have no problem with - our favourite was a little Italian place called L'Osteria on Columbus. Don't know if it is still there but it never failed us.

My knowledge of surfing is pretty poor, but I seem to remember Half Moon Bay just south of SF was known for big waves at Mavericks - if you like 50ft-ers!

Cycling was my thing and you will be spoilt for choice. You could head across the Golden Gate into Marin and burn a few calories on Mt Tam or aim further north towards Bodega Bay, but as we lived in Berkeley for a couple of years I would suggest taking BART across to the East Bay and cycling in the hills up behind Berkeley. Three Bears was my favourite ride - you might even bump into our old neighbour Stephen who first showed me the ride! You can take your bike on BART (as long as its not the first carriage!) and from downtown Berkeley head up Spruce and through Tilden Park and then down Wildcat Canyon (gnarly descent). At the bottom the choice is to do the route clockwise or counter-clockwise - more often we went left and did the ride clockwise, leaving the three climbs in the order 'mama', 'baby' and 'papa'. Take the left on San Pablo Dam Road and then make a right at the first houses you reach (Castro Ranch Road) heading towards Alhambra. At a y-fork be ar (pardon the pun) right on Alhambra Valley Road towards Lafayette/Martinez, and eventually you'll come to Bear Creek Road. Make a right and then enjoy the Three Bears. At the end of the climbs you'll be back at the base of Wildcat Canyon, and a quick two-mile climb back ithrough Tilden and into Berkeley. Depending on the time of the year, you could leave Berkeley in cool, drizzly cloud and once out of Tilden Park be in blazing sun - in summer Three Bears could get very hot. You're bound to meet other riders on the road and most were pretty friendly in my experience. I loved that ride.

There were many others - www.bikely.com - seems to have most in the Bay Area covered pretty well. Good luck and enjoy SF.

Cheers
Al

We'd recommend Sushi Ran - a Michelin star rated place on Caledonia St
in Sausalito. They serve delicious sushi and sashimi as well as plenty of
vegetarian options. I loved the fact that they welcomed me in my shorts and sandals – a contrast to similarly rated restaurants in this country.

I also loved the wee Indian cafe along the road from it - but the name
escapes me.

Hope this helps
R

Hands down top food tip is House of Nankin.
Forget the menu - you tell the chef the number of dishes, if you want meat/seafood/veg and anything you don't like - then let him create.
You can of course order from the menu - some things are too good to not get. I personally cannot go without getting the chilli-soy calamari. (No batter and tartar sauce within miles of that amazing delight)

As an added bonus, House of Nankin is close to city light bookstore - history and an amazing bookstore all in one, and around the corner from Vesuvio. So buy a book, eat at House of Nankin and then have a glass of wine and some Kerouac

sanfrancisco.citysearch.com/profile/917590/
citylights.com/
vesuvio.com/
C.Reif

You have to try the clam chowder in sourdough bowls down on Fisherman's Wharf - any number of places sell it and it's virtually the law that you eat it in The City (never - as The Guardian has, and should know better - call it San Fran btw) and then there are hundreds of really good multi-ethnic restaurants dotted all over the City. Avoid the Tenderloin area though - not just for eating but in general.

As for cycling, you HAVE to go to Yosemite. About 4 hours drive north of the City, there are numerous day tours that set off from Fisherman's Wharf. I'm not sure if you can take your own bike on the coaches but I'm pretty certain you can hire them in the park. I went in May a few years ago and I left my heart there and ache to go back - the sights are STAGGERING and in May the waterfalls are roaring. There are plenty of well maintained tracks on the valley floor but if you're looking for more strenuous cycling I'm sure that there are hundreds of trails available to choose from. I know that you don't like travel books, but take a while to look round the following website: yosemitefun.com - a phenomenal resource set up and maintained by another Yosemite nut - Phil Hawkins. Make sure you take a camera, spare batteries, flash cards or film. You'll never forget the time spent there.
James

Bit of a short response as I'm on the iPod but, for excellent evening
eating you have to try a place called Gary Danko's. It's a few blocks
back from fisherman's wharf. Ask to eat at the bar.
Paul

Coffee rubbed pork shoulder at Range

Tea salad at Yamo

Sodabread at The Phoenix Bar
Matt

The most famous surfing break in San Francisco is Fort Point, a
left-breaking point break right underneath the Golden Gate bridge
itself. It is not for the inexperienced though, with rocks, rip tides
and crowds all making life difficult for the visiting surfer. Just
round the corner is Ocean Beach, a long stretch of sand which receives
all the swell that the Pacific can throw at it; it is less crowded,
but due to a lack of any sort of sheltered channel, paddling out
beyond the white water can be tough!

After a tiring morning in the water there is nothing better to fill
the tummy than heading up into Chinatown for lunch at one of the
numerous Dim Sum restaurants - just remember to keep an eye on how
much you're eating, the bill can easily add up!!
Alun

My suggestion is 'Le Colonial' (French/Vietnamese) - near Union Square
Joe Bugler

My recommendation is the aptly named Greens vegetarian restaurant - fantastic food, beautiful views over San Francisco Bay, easily accessible, and very friendly staff.

Regards
John Buckley

A must is House of Nanking, well known Chinese restaurant. Go early or late, but be prepared to queue on the pavement, very sparse decor, but the food is fantastic, plentiful and cheap! Just tell the waiter what you like, chicken, beef, seafood, and let the staff order for you!

As a biker, just for a change of wheels, do a Segway tour of the Wharf. Great fun and well organised!

Use the streetcars to get around on a three day Rover ticket.

Great town! Enjoy!
Geoff

You souldn't miss one very good bike shop near Union Street: City Cycle!

You'll meet a great and experienced team there. I'm sure that they
will provide you with the best tips and information on spots for
cycling around San Francisco. And you can found all needed accessories
and equipments, apparels, cycles (of course), maps on the areas and
national parks, as well as infos on local clubs, races...

As I'm a trail runner, I did run in the Marin County (Marin Headlands,
Mount Tamalpais), a great great place to enjoy wonderful outdoors
while being at 30mn from downtown San Francisco. There are bicycles
trails as well. You can check out these pictures taken last spring:
http://picasaweb.google.com/lesimpalas/TrailsMarinCounty2008#

Enjoy,
Kristof


In response to the query about places to eat in San Francisco - we lived in the city for several years and just returned for a visit, revisiting some classics and finding a few great new places as well. We'd recommend...

Burma Superstar... incredible Burmese restaurant, with an mind boggling tea-leaf salad, in a great pan-Asian neighbourhood that is seldom visited by tourists. There's a wait at the restaurant, but it gives you a chance to go across the street and dive into some Hong Kong style pancake balls (309 Clement St).

The Alembic... a great bar on the Haight. Great after a walk in Golden Gate Park and perhaps a visit to the DeYoung Museum, California Academy of Sciences, or Ocean Beach. The wild boar bulgogi jerky and squid are brilliant as are the drinks (1725 Haight St)

Swan Oyster Depot... a classic SF institution. One long bar serving the best local seafood. The lobster and crab are expensive, but a bowl of clam chowder with crusty San Francisco sourdough and a glass of anchor steam can't be beat (1517 Polk St).

Cruising for coffee on the Valencia corridor and beyond... visit Ritual Roasters (1026 Valencia St) and Four Barrel (375 Valencia St) on Valencia for great coffee and a window on to the Mission hipster vibe. Dynamo Donuts (2760 24th St) is also a great place for coffee as well as brilliant gourmet donuts, as odd and brilliant as those sounds. Of course, a visit to blue bottle is a must and the quirky kiosk is worth a visit in its own right (315 Linden St).

And, naturally, a burrito and a glass of Horchata for each day of your visit. My favourite place, which will raise groans of protest, is Pancho Villa at 3071 16th St, but half the fun is trying out different places in the Mission and coming up with your own fave.

Have a great time (not that you will need any encouragement in this department).
Mike Hooper and Carina Wendel

You can try the "The Frugal Foodie Menu" at the Eric Tucker's Millennium Restaurant... Eric is an inspired chef and with Millennium, he proposes a very creative vegan cuisine. You'll experience what could offer a truly plant-based gastronomy without noticing it. Which means that you don't have to be vegan or vegetarian to enjoy your dinner. The icing on the cake, you'll fest with great food being guilt-free and in the best form ever the day after to go cycling on the trails of the Marin County!

Millennium Restaurant
580 Geary Street // San Francisco, CA 94102
Tel: 415-345-3900
Located in the the newly refurbished Hotel California (http://www.hotelca.com/sanfrancisco/)
Kristof

I am in and live in San Francisco. It's hard to make a recommendation not knowing his preferences. Also, when I have hosted friends from England here, they seem to drink like fish then be happy with WHATEVER! (I say this in a kindly manner).

Regarding surfing: He must know the Pacific is FREEZING (55 F) cold all year round and he must use a wet suit. The entire western end of San Francisco is Ocean Beach and surfing is popular. There is no surfing inside the bay. South of SF any place there are people there is surfing - especially in Pacifica, Half Moon Bay, and then farther down to Santa Cruz. He must Google "Mavericks" which is a big surf area south of SF. It's a tow-in area with enormous waves. By May, winter storms are past so the surf won't be that big.

There is wonderful Korean, Chinese, Mexican, and California/American places to eat all over town in all price ranges. Many English seem to be afraid of Mexican. I am a working class older gay guy but discovered something - burritos are like Cornish pasties (a meal in a wrap) and bi bim bop (Korean) is a meal in a bowl. Being gay or not, the Castro district has a lot of really good restaurants. The Mission district has great Mexican, Central American, and South American cuisines. There are many great vegetarian places all over town. Chinatown has a lot of Chinese restaurants but go someplace else for Chinese - Clement Street. Clement Street is lined for blocks with Burmese, American (my favorite is 'Q'), French, Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, etc at very reasonable rates. Despite the cliches about tourist areas, Fisherman's Wharf area just doesn't have the best food at all - stay clear.

Across the bay in Oakland (downtown and Jack London Square) has some really interesting restaurants and also in Berkeley (Chez Panisse sort of began the California movement). North of the Golden Gate, Sausalito and Tiburon have some great but rather upscale places. Getting up into the Napa and Sonoma Valleys (wine country) there are places I can't afford (smile) but are legendary. One in particular is French Laundry in Yountville.

Bon voyage!
Larry

1) For the love of God, go to Delfina, my favourite restaurant in SF for good reason: it's Cal Ital goodness has never disappointed me in years and I have lived in the Bay Area for 12. I've worked in Bay Area restaurants for
10 of those years and I live with a chef.

2) Try Bar Tartine, always delicious. And the Slanted Door never disappoints. The Bartender at SD, Jennifer Colliau is a total gem. She has her own business creating organic pre-prohibition cocktail syrups.

3) Eat Mexican food at the Sat. Farmer's market outside the Ferry Building, and savour some Hog Island oysters inside the Ferry Building.

4) Go get Dim Sum in China Town

5) Don't leave without checking out Buy Right Ice cream in the Mission. It's the best Ice Cream in the world.
Carolynn

I have some great suggestions to eat since I'm from the Bay Area. Too bad you'll just be exploring SF, but I still have a great list.

Breakfast/Brunch:
1. Dottie's True Blue Cafe in the Civic Center/Tenderloin
522 Jones St (between Geary St & Ofarrell St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
Ph. (415) 885-2767
An excellent breakfast spot that's well known among locals and the guidebooks unfortunately. There's always a huge line b/c everyone comes here after a night out.

2. Brenda's French Soul Food
652 Polk Street
Cross: Eddy Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
Ph. (415) 345-8100
Small little cozy place near the Civic Center. The French toast is absolutely the best as well as their specials. After breakfast/brunch, you can walk around the civic center and go to the Asian Art Museum, city hall, main library etc.

Burgers/Americana:
I would suggest going to the Ferry Building near the Embarcadero, Financial District. It's an amazing area filled with lots of independent, organic stores, and with delicious food. There's a really cute bakery, oyster restaurant, and a burger place.

1. Taylor's Their burgers and hot dogs are really good. And, you can have wine to go with your burger. Milkshakes are a must.

Latin/Spanish:
The Bay Area offers some great Latin flavours and you can find them anywhere, but mostly situated in the Mission District.

1. Picaro Tapas Restaurant 3120 16th Street Everything on the menu is excellent and affordable. I would suggest the paella, which takes 30 min. to prepare, garlic potatoes, fried calamari, and rabbit stew.

2. Pancho Villa Taqueria3071 16th St They have excellent burritos that's fresh and mouth watering. There's also one near the ferry building as well. This place is great b/c they offer health alternatives like brown rice, whole wheat tortillas, etc. And, they have really fresh juices. But, most burrito places in the Mission are pretty good anyway. Just pick one.

3. Laurel's Cuban Restaurant
Neighborhood: Hayes Valley
205 Oak Street
(between Gough St & Octavia St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
Ph. (415) 934-1575
I only know about this place b/c of my Cuban/Chinese friend. It's a really sweet and small local joint. The food is absolutely delicious and crave worthy. The plantains are amazing, steak, and sangria.

Asian:
1. San Tung Chinese Restaurant
Neighbourhood: Inner Sunset
1031 Irving St
(between 11th Ave & 12th Ave)
San Francisco, CA 94122
Ph. (415) 242-0828
I've gone here a couple of times, and every time, its excellent! There's always a line, but its worth it. Everything on the menu is great, especially the dry fried chicken wings and black bean sauce noodles. It's so great that my friends call it "Tasty Chinese."

2. Sunflower Authentic Vietnamese Restaurant
Neighbourhood: Mission
506 Valencia St
(between 16th St & 17th St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
I'm not a Vietnamese food connoisseur so the only knowledge I have of Vietnamese is pho and rolls. After coming here w/ a friend, it totally changed my mind of what Vietnamese cuisine can offer. The staff is really friendly and very helpful if its your first time.

3. Great Eastern Restaurant
Neighbourhood: Chinatown
649 Jackson St
(between Beckett St & Cooper Aly)
San Francisco, CA 94133
Ph. (415) 986-2500
I'm rather picky with my dim sum, but this place is really good. It's authentic and well known among locals and tourists.

4. San Wo Restaurant
Neighbourhoods: Nob Hill, Chinatown
813 Washington Street
(between Grant Ave & Waverly Pl)
San Francisco, CA 94108
Ph. (415) 982-0596
I've never been here, but my dad says its a place you have to try at least once. It's a landmark. It's so well known that Conan O'Brian made fun of it everyday when his show was in the city.

Misc: 1. Tangerine Neighbourhood: Castro 3499 16th Street corner of 16th and Sanchez St (between Dehon St & Sanchez St) San Francisco, CA 94114 Ph.(415) 626-1700 My friends and I love this place. It's such a great spot for brunch or dinner. For dinner, I would suggest the duck, or tofu. And, all of the appetizers are amazing, esp. the corn fritter. Yum!

2. Belden Place Neighbourhood: Financial District It's a little alley way that features European restaurants. It's like you're in a different country. My favourite restaurant is Plouf and their bowl of mussels and side of french fries.

3. Naan-N-Curry
several locations
642 Irving St
(between 7th Ave & 8th Ave)
San Francisco, CA 94122
Ph. (415) 664-7225
A great place if you're craving Indian food. I'm happy there's several locations so if you have a hinkering for a snack, its easy to find one.

4. Crepevine Neighbourhood: Inner Sunset 624 Irving St (between 7th Ave & 8th Ave) San Francisco, CA 94122 Ph. (415) 681-5858 My go-to place if you want a sweet or savoury crepe. It's always good, no matter what. And, if you don't want crepes, they have excellent sandwiches and salads too.

Okay, so if you decided to go outside of San Francisco, I would suggest one place! It's in Berkeley and right across the bridge, and I just discovered this gem.

900 Grayson, and that's the name and address. I had chicken and waffles, and it was totally amazing. As well as their shoestring onionrings with a srircha aioli.

I hope you have a fabulous trip to SF.
Sherry

I'm visiting SF at the moment. I live in NYC and am a bit of a foodie on a budget. In a city like NYC or SF, where there is so much competition between restaurants, it's very doable to have a great meal for $15 to $30. I don't care to experiment much, as I'll only get to eat out a dozen times or so while I'm here; so asked some locals in the mission district what's up. . .

Cha-ya - veggie Japanese - came up a few times. tried it, was excellent.
Range - all free range - a few doors up, also excellent
and
Tartine - came up from everyone i asked - the BEST for tarts/ breakfast quiche/ bakery coffee shop etc I think I've got to experience in my limited experience. There'll likely be a line but it is really so worth it.

Peace
John

For very tasty Chinese food, go to:

House of Nanking
919 Kearny Street
SF, CA 94133
(415) 421-1429

It can get pretty crowded. The last time I was there, the owner came out, took our menus without us ordering, and prepared a 4 course surprise meal at a very reasonable cost (3 people, around $55). (Of course, you can order whatever you want, as well!) Definitely a great experience.
Parker Trevathan
P.s. For biking, I might try Tilden Park in Berkeley. For surfing, I would probably head down to Santa Cruz. Have a great time! I love the Bay Area and miss it dearly.

I love a restaurant/bar called 'Luna Park' on Valencia. The food is
Americana and quite good fun. The best element of the place is the
vibe though. It's dark and loud with booths down one side and a bar
at the other. The staff are very cool and it's an interesting place
to hang out. Get there on the weekend and it's buzzing. I don't
know if that's what you're looking for, if not then there'll be
something there for you. It's a very cool town indeed. Have fun.
Julian

Some of the best seafood in the city is Scoma's in Fishermen's
Wharf, down the corner of Al Scoma Way and Jefferson Blvd, tucked
behind some of the bigger restaurants that mostly feed tourists. You
eat just above the boats that caught what you'll have for dinner
earlier that day, and the menu is vast. I especially recommend the
Cioppino, its the best in the world. I also recommend the Ferry
Building, which is the old world trade center turned into a market
along the Embarcadero; its a little yuppie-ish but you can piece
together a good meal from the various merchants there.
Matt, Sacramento, CA

Lori's Diner is just off Union Square in the Downtown SF district;
it's a 50's style diner (there are a handful of them around the city)
that offers garlic fries with burgers, etc. We always go there when
in town, and would certainly recommend it. Have fun, SF is in my
opinion one of the most beautiful cities on earth, certainly equal
with Paris, France.
Stephen

I’d suggest you try The Front Porch which is a locals’ dining obsession. The food is described as “Caribbean Comfort” and the fried chicken is the best I’ve ever tasted. It’s slightly off the beaten track and has great atmosphere.

If you’re looking for a great brunch spot, you should go to Boogaloos. Mexican flavoured breakfast menu with a splash of Mission District style. Nobody serves you unless they’ve been pierced or painted. Just show up and sign up…it’s worth the wait.

Regards,
Lewis Heathcote

That is an excellent question. As some one born and raised in SF I recommend The Ferry Building (Boccalone's), Mission District (Dosa, Medjool, Monk's Kettle, Roosevelt Tamala Parlor), Tenderloin (Brenda's French Soul Food or cheap but delicious Vietnamese sandwiches across the street from the Phoenix Hotel) and almost every neighbourhood in The City. Meatball Monday's at Zare are excellent as are the noodles at Katana-Ya on Geary Street in Union Square Avoid the tourist traps (Fisherman's Wharf) and feel free to hop on a ferry and go to Oakland's Jack London Square for dinner at Miss Pearl's Jam House and a show at Yoshi's or Tiburon for brunch at Sam's or dinner at the Caprice. Check out tablehopper.com and sf.eater.com. Depending on how many days you have and how adventurous you are culinarily, you may eat more than you surf or bike. If you get thirsty, a freshly made cocktail at cantinasf.com should hit the spot nicely. As for Asian food, any restaurant with a line outside is good. The Dim Sum at Gold Mountain and Yank Sing is excellent. Pack stretchy pants. Kimberly

In response to Pete's question about the best places to eat in San Francisco, he will not want to miss The Stinking Rose in the heart of little Italy. The restaurant is somewhat of an institution, boasting a menu comprised entirely of garlic-based dishes. The food is excellent, the atmosphere a tad surreal (one of the world's longest 'garlic chains' hangs from the ceiling), and the service is friendly. Just remember your after-dinner mints.

Best,
Hasan Dindjer (London)


Every summer my mate and I go for two weeks motorcycling in the French Alps. This year we have three weeks to play with, although they will be in Spring, and we would like to venture further afield, although still in Europe. Does anyone have any experience of good road trip routes for bikes?
Denis


The Pyrenees never disappoint - get the ferry to Santander (civilised Brittany Ferries), cross into France north of Pamplona then use the passes (most of which are used in the Tour de France) to travel eastwards. The Pyrenees are not as bleak as the Alps, and not nearly as commercial but have very interesting roads. Then go across to the Cevennes (the Route des Cevennes is a must). Following that, up into the Auvergne. More lovely mountain roads.
With three weeks, you could also return to the Alps.
Ian

Last year I rode down through France, and into Switzerland, and then
down into Northern Italy and across to Slovenia and then followed the
Croatian coast down to Dubrovnic. Have look on the map, and you will
see that this road is a perfect twisting route along the coast with
plenty of places to stop and stay. From there you can cross Bosnia
and drive up to Sarajevo and still going north you come out into
Croatia again. From there I drove across to Zagreb and then up to
Austria and home via Germany and northern France. Depending on how
much time you have you can choose to bag as many borders as you can by
going through Belgium Luxemberg and Holland, or as I did cut through
France and visit Verdun. As a rough guide I did just over 4000
miles. It was all easy, but I advise you buy maps before you go, as
the people in Dubrovnic for example, were less than keen on selling
maps for Bosnia for some reason. Also as you have ridden in
Switzerland I do not need to tell you that the passes in can be closed
quite late in the year. In May I had to make a few detours before I
could drop down to Lake Como.
In France I stayed in Besançon. A beautiful place to stay a days ride
from LeHarve and a perfect place to set off from for Switzerland. In
Slovenia stayed in the only hotel in a town called Novo mesto (half
way between Ljubjana and Zagreb). It was a very strange experience,
as I watched two fishermen on a punt on the river fall overboard
because they were so drunk, then a raft made out of a caravan and an
outboard motor sailed past, and because I had asked about the war (I
had driven through a few shelled towns south of there) a plain clothes
Policeman tried to befriend me and explain how his country was not
racist, it was just that they hated Gypsies.
On the French German Boarder I stayed Wissembourg, in a really
friendly old wooden hotel on the square, and in Austria I stayed in a
fantastic town on the German border with a street music festival going
on. Two places I would like to go back to.
Christopher Reading


See previous questions and answers

If you have a travel query you need help with, find out how The Knowledge works, then email us your question: been.there@guardian.co.uk