March 19

The credit crunch, combined with fond memories of camping near Dittisham as a child have combined to convince my partner and I that this year we are taking the kids (11 and 8) camping for our family holiday. Can anyone recommend somewhere in the United Kingdom or nearby - i.e. France - where we can convince our two youngsters that they are on holiday despite not having access to Sky TV? We'd like to be able to get there within a day and somewhere a bit unique would be great. Needless to say us adults would love some sun, but accept this isn't always guaranteed - we'd take fun instead!
Matthew

If I had to recommend one camp site that was unique it would be at
Clachtoll Beach in Sutherland, Scotland. A truly amazing place and one of
geological importance. You drive through the stunning scenery of the North
Highlands and all of a sudden the hills open up and you find a secluded
beach. The beach itself is probably the most beautiful in the UK and the
children there spend the days in wetsuits body surfing.

A climb up the hill will take you to the remains of a 2000 year old fort which is easily accessible for exploring. In August last year the sun shone the whole time whilst the rest of country suffered downpours and we came back tanned and relaxed.

There is no tacky club there and at night it is very peaceful, although it can be windy camped by the coast so a good tent is recommended. You may even be lucky enough like we were last year to have dolphins come and visit in the bay.
Lee Selwood
Hadfield, Glossop

Simple and perfect answer, go to WOMAD at Charlton Park end of July.
Keith Turner

I'd recommend St Ives, Cornwall; the Ayr Park Holiday camp site has fantastic facilities, and the camping area for tents has the best view overlookng St Ives itself and the surfers beach.

Then there's the town itself; with 3 beautiful beaches to choose from, and easily within walking distance, and if you do think it too far the local taxis are not at all that dear to hire; and a better alternative to attempting to negotiate the wonderfully narrow streets by yourself.

On top of that, there are some really good local attractions close by, the Tate gallery, local tin mines, and great coastal path walks. Some great seafood restaraunts, or simple bar meals should ensure a satisfactory evening out. So, enjoy.
Ian McKenzie

Campsites have transformed out of all recognition in recent years and Britain is blessed with some of the finest sites in the world.

The Westcountry has some absolute crackers - but if you want to get off the beaten track - it's important that you do your homework. Camping, caravanning and static holidays are now so popular that many sites are owned by big corporates and it sounds like you want to avoid that scene.

Have a look at both the major Club websites: campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk and caravanclub.co.uk - it's worth the membership fee if you're looking to get on one of their more intimate members only sites.

Some of our favourite sites in the Westcountry include:

Mother Ivey's Bay, Padstow motheriveysbay.com
Trewethett Farm, Tintagel
Damage Barton, Woolacombe

These are all coastal sites with direct access to safe, sandy beaches and outstanding views out over the sea.

If France appeals, we can recommend these two sites in Southern Brittany. Simply hop on the overnight Portsmouth-St Malo ferry and you'll be there by late morning the following day.

Camping Le Raguenez Plage, Nevez. camping-le-raguenes-plage.com
Camping De La Pointe St Gilles, Benodet. stgilles.fr/GB/index.html

Again, they're both right by the sea, and while the first is relatively quiet and isolated, Bendodet is a 15-minute walk away from some smart bars and restaurants overlooking a pretty little estuary. It’s a bit like Dartmouth or Salcombe, except you can park for free on the seafront and get into most of the restaurants and cafes without booking three months in advance!

And one last word of advice, if this sounds attractive, book now! Advance bookings on many sites are up 25 per cent this year, so if you leave it much longer, you may be disappointed.
Mark Sutcliffe
Lincolnshire

Harlech in north west Wales is an amazing place to go camping. A vast
beach, sand dunes to explore, and the backdrop of the castle clinging
to the cliffs with the mountains of Snowdonia behind. Loads of things
to do: idyllic walks, picnic places, the mountain railway, cosy little
tea shops - and a short drive away from places like the GreenWood eco-
friendly theme park and Electric Mountain, an underground power
station. When the sun comes out the beach is just gorgeous, a real sun
trap.
Kerys Haines
Hong Kong

I would recommend Southwold as a camping option - mentioned by the Guardian 2 years ago - see this link. There's no fast food chains, arcades or a cinema. There is however a great pier, lovely pubs to eat in and some great views from the small cliff upon which a working lighthouse is based. Being in Southwold is like stepping back into the late Victorian ages - the toy shop is old fashioned and specialises in things like kites or our favourite when we were young crab kits. We often would walk into the butchers, buy some bacon, walk back to the harbour, get the old fashioned rowing boat passenger ferry across the river to Walberswick and just before the sandy beach there's a small creek. We'd fill a bucket up and catch crabs all day long. Lazy summer evenings would be spent walking around the area through the gorseland by the huge water tower, flying kites in the coastal breeze, visiting the RNLI boat station or playing card games. Be warned that the camp site books out almost every summer so book far in advance - the fish and chippy just round the corner has to be one of the best in the UK.
Alex Banks

It was 20-odd years ago but I remember several idyllic family camping holidays at Trencreek Farm Country Holiday Park in Cornwall when I was a kid. There were lots of animals and adventure-type playgrounds, plus a lovely local beach that had a stream running down it - perfect for building dams. Staying on a farm was really exciting. The holiday park still exists and has animals so would be worth looking at their website if your kids like animals.
Anna Hall, London

In reply to Matthew about camping my partner and I went to Covert Cabin in the Dorgondone, last May and had the best holiday ever!
This is really posh camping in a wood cabin with the board games, books, fishing roads, a boat, paints and the additional option of hiring bikes all supplied. It is really a back to basics holiday where you can enjoy just being rather than sitting in front of the TV. Plus Bob and Di are great and there is the option to have dinner cooked for you in the cabin and they are nearby to help with anything. I cannot recommend this highly enough. Situated in the beautiful Perigord Vert Natural Park, in the Dordogne region of south west France.
covertcabin.com/home.html
Rebecca Wyld


My fiance and I are planning our honeymoon for the first two weeks of September 2010. We want luxury, white, sandy beaches and are looking at the Maldives, Mauritius or Seychelles (in the Indian Ocean area). The Caribbean would also appeal, but we're worried about the hurricane season. Also, is there a risk of storms/rainy season in the Indian Ocean? Our budget is around £3,000-£4,000 and we're considering going all inclusive as it seems to offer good value.
Chris

The Maldives are lovely, but only for about 2 days, then things get a tad boring, the sense of being in a vacuum can be suffocating and the staff at some of the high-end spa resorts are a tad obsequious, although to be fair, that’s their job. I’d recommend Sri Lanka instead, you’ll get a lot more for your money. Rent a beach-side villa down south of Colombo, they usually come with staff who’ll prepare fresh meals any time of day and you can then relax on your own beach satisfied that your money is filtering into the local community rather than some corporate chain of mega-resorts. Also, you’ll likely not have to deal with the uncomfortable silences fomented by a restaurant full of honeymooners.
Gareth Roberts

We went to Sri Lanka for our honeymoon and it was absolutely amazing. You fly to Colombo but then get a taxi to one of the many villages on the Southern coast such as Bentota, Hikkadu, or Galle.
The food, weather, beaches and people are all perfect.
I would recommend going to :
- Bentota and staying in Saman Villas (own private infinity pool, private dinner on top of a rock overlooking the beach is free for one night because you are on honeymoon)
- Tangalle – Amanwella (this is top end luxury and very expensive, we stayed there for 5 nights as a treat and was worth every penny. The beach for the villas are around the most beautiful crescent shaped beach, if you are on the beach they bring you white towels and iced cold water, the restaurant is gorgeous and not too expensive, great cocktails). The only down point is that once you have one Aman experience then you will only ever want to stay there (there are 8 in the world)
- If you are interested in yoga there are several yoga retreats in Sri Lanka
Hope this helps.
Kia Kulasuriya

Cocoa Island in Maldives run by COMO is heaven on earth, we went for honeymoon and on the first morning thought the staff must scatter the petals under the canopy of trees because it was just too perfect. It is a small private resort of absolute luxury – but understated and blissfully relaxed. We also spent a week staying at the Four Seasons and it felt large, commercial, busy and without soul, when we arrived at the Four Seasons my wife cried wanting to go back to Cocoa. It is your honeymoon don’t think about saving money on all inclusive – maybe go for less time.
Alistair Wotton


March 13

My girlfriend and I are planning a trip to Peru for two weeks in the summer. We don't want to do organised excursions, but would like to sightsee at our own pace, go on public transport and see parts that aren't so touristy. Can you help us with any advice, suggestions, places to start from etc?
Greg

I'm Peruvian and have lived here all my life, so I think I could pass on some advice regarding travelling to Peru without plan excursions.

For starters, wandering around in Lima (and most big cities in Peru) without prior knowledge of the city or at least the language can be pretty dangerous, so I wouldn't advise you take public transport. Peru's public transportation network is a complete mess - well below the levels of efficiency and security of neighbouring countries such as Chile and Ecuador. There are virtually no instructions on buses on how to get from anywhere to anywhere, there is no subway nor any kind of mass transportation networks and interurban bus companies are insecure and chaotic. So if you want to go on your own, try calling a cab. Most cities have private taxi services than you can call upon, which are far more safer and effective. They are also pretty cheap, for a foreigner at least (public transportation in Peru is ridiculously cheap).

Most tourists coming into Peru opt to bypass Lima and go directly to Cuzco or other cities. I'd strongly advise you not to do this, as Lima is a pretty interesting city with lots of things to do. Try visiting the historical downtown, one of the nicest in south America. Try also bohemian neighbourhoods such as Barranco and Miraflores, where you can watch public shows and art demonstrations in public parks. Also, try visiting the beaches in Sur Chico (specially in the summer), which are among the best beaches in the Pacific coastline - way better than California!
Ronald

Two weeks is not a lot in Peru - it's big and bus trips take time. Go and see the candelabra near Nazca as a quieter alternative. If you want to see the rainforest, go to Pilcopata from Cusco and organise a trip from there. You can walk to an indigenous village in a couple of hours and they can then show you around their forests and you can sleep in a hut with no other tourists.

Your time is too short though in my opinion. Contact me if you want contacts out there (Been there has got the contact details).

Good luck
Charles

To discover the real Peru, start with the local gastronomy. It's the
most democratic and delicious culture. By eating you will discover a
lot of other things. Here some tips:

In Lima:
1. Bar Queirolo de Pueblo Libre. There you
can eat the most wonderful butifarra (the local sandwich) and the
traditional pisco. Try the 'capitan': pisco and vermouth.
2. La Gloria. Considered the best
restaurant in town. It has a a country version in a place outside the
city called Pachacamac.
3. La Gran Fruta. If you want to discover the delicious fruits of
Peru, here you have a lot of different juices. Ideal for
breakfast.
4. Mercado de Surquillo. You have to go. It's a beautiful mix of
peruvian products and people. Here yo can smell the country.
5. Pescados Capitales. The best
'cebiche' ever! And right next to it's an interesting art gallery.

In Cusco:
Chicha. It's the new restaurant of our star chef Gaston Acurio. It's
located in the Plaza de Armas. Here you can discover the local food
with a lot of sophistication.

Otherwise, to know Peru you have to see the local artists. Here some
advices in Lima:

1. MALI (Art Museum of Lima). Here you will see contemporary artists and traditional ones. It`s located in the chaotic and wonderful "centro de Lima".
2. Lucia de la Puente gallery. This gallery has young artists like Sandra Gamarra (The MOMA has just bought some of her work). Also this gallery is located in Barranco, one of the most traditional and beautiful districts of Lima.
Diana

While I understand why you want to avoid tourist traps, part of me wants to ask - why go to Peru and miss Machu Picchu or the Nazca lines? Yes, they are popular sites and will be busy, but that's because they're so fantastic.

There are plenty of countries that don't get hourdes of tourists every summer, but are still worth visiting. If you really want to get off the beaten track for a couple of weeks, why not consider going somewhere different this year?
S Pinna

The first thing to remember is that Peru is a large country. In order to see anything other than a brief, typical, highlights visit, two weeks isn't really going to do it. Before going you have to decide whether you are going to go on the typical gringo loop, which is eminently doable and also very interesting, but also very popular. Usually it involves landing in Lima, then going by bus and stopping on the way south at places like Pisco (to see the Ballestas Islands, maybe four hours away by bus), then Nazca (to see the Nazca Lines, a further four hours), then Arequipa and the Colca Canyon. This last stop will help you to acclimatize before going on up in altitude. This is why flying directly to Cuzco isn't necessarily a good idea if you get sorroche - altitude sickness. This could knock 10-20% off your holiday as you're being sick in a hotel. Then on to Lake Titicacaby bus, or more likely train or short flight. Definitely go to one of the islands of Taquile or Amantani, then on to Cuzcoand, and of course Machu Picchu - often the culmination of many people's trip to Peru. It's worth spending several days here. Then maybe a day or two at the Tambopata rainforest reserve in Puerto Maldonado. Then fly back to Lima to return home.

I used to manage the South American Explorers' Club in Lima and I would recommend you joining what has now become the South American Explorers (saexplorers.org). They can provide lots of up to date information. Also, look at the Footprint Peru handbook (or the continent wide South American Handbook), and a couple of others to see where you want to go.

The best way to get off the beaten track is by going North to Cajamarca, Trujillo, Chachapoyas and lots of other places, and consequently avoiding too many tourists. You might have to choose whether you want to see more archaeology, mountains, rainforest or desert. And don't forget the food either - although I'm slightly biased, I think Peruvian food is the best in South America, with Brazil a close second.

In two weeks, I would recommend going to the following places:
Casma, to see the ruins of Sechin
Huaraz for some beautiful mountains
Chachapoyas for some amazing ruins including Kuelap, a huge fortress that the Inca never managed to take
Cajamarca for los Ba–os del Inca - the town where Atahualpa was captured, and where you can enjoy some lovely hot springs.

Make sure to eat some guinea pig while you're up in the mountains. You might also want to go to Trujillo and even to the surf town of Huanchaco. If you don't like the smell of fish factories avoid Chimbote but if you take mostly buses (they are very comfortable if you go with some of the major companies) and just the odd flight you could do it, and make it feel like a real adventure into the bargain by avoiding the gringo trail to some extent. If you want to go into the rainforest in the north, you can do so by going to Tarapoto and then onto Yurimaguas.

However, there is one piece of advice that is imperative - learn some Spanish if you don't already have some. Your time on public transport will be much, much more enjoyable if you can speak, even if only with some words, with your fellow travellers.

It's an amazing country. Try to go for a month instead!
Richard


I want to book a week's holiday this summer for me and my partner. We haven't had a vacation for seven years and literally don't know where to start. Ideally we'd like to stay in Europe, but not in a tacky tourist resort or in a big city. Also we don't drive and - the killer - we need to eat wheat free, vegetarian food. We're in our late twenties/early thirties and are on a budget.
Mary

Tricky question. As a rule of thumb, vegetarians have a much better time in Northern Europe than in the South. In countries like France, where I live, wheat-free vegetarians are even less popular than Nicolas Sarkozy.

However, let me offer you a few suggestions:

Firstly, you could consider a self-catered cycling trip in the Basque country or Brittany. Catch a train to Saint Jean-de-Luz and head for the hills (they are big hills, you'll get fit!) or a lazy ferry to St Malo. If you are on a tight budget bring a tent. Here's the thing though, don't stay in a 'camping', which are hideous, overpriced holiday complexes - stay in the network of 'camping la ferme' which, as the name suggests, are farms which offer a few campsites. Some of them are still working farms. All of the ones I've stayed in have been chilled out and friendly. Alternatively, you could go wwoofing, where you stay for free on an organic farm in exchange for a few hours farmwork. Check out their website wwoof.org. A great option for vegetarians on a budget.

The second suggestion is to organise a house/flat swap with someone. There are lots of websites that help you to organise this. I could recommend some of the smaller cultural cities in Europe such as Gent, Strasbourg, Stockholm and especially Berlin, which, although a big city, is relaxed and offers good food and transport options.

Good luck and bon voyage
Adam Le Nevez

It's not technically Europe but easy to get to... I recommend going to
Turkey via Veggie Ventures, staying at a place called Yuva on the coast
near Fetiye. My husband, I and our 8-year-old son stayed there over
Christmas and New Year for 10 days and loved it. The food is great. I
am wheat intolerant and we are all veggie and they catered for us fine. In fact it is all veggie or vegan. Beautiful setting, wooden huts or bungalows set in herb gardens and pine forest by the sea. The last bit of road is very bumpy, but the owners arranged transfers to and from the local airport. It's a great place to chill out or take walks in the mountains and forests, swim in the coves, even in winter.

The owners, Attilla and Caroline were low key, but welcoming. Caroline provides Indian head massage, Aromatherapy massage and reflexology, yoga in the mornings - all highly recommended for increasing the relaxation factor. In the evenings you could join up with the other guests and share, skills, jokes, games or just sit and be. Amazing starlight. An evening by a bonfire with the beautiful arabic flute music of Nihat, one of the staff who has great knowledge of the local nature and walks, completed it for us. Even our son was captivated and had a happy time clambering on rocks, playing ping pong on the home made table outside and exploring. We made a trip out to a local town, a market and turkish bath. There is a vast tourist beach a few miles down the road if you want, it but we felt very content where we were - a very special place. Go there!
Chris

I can only recomed Praia da Luz, the Portugese town which was unfortunately made infamous by the disappearance of Madeleine McCann. There is a wonderful independent health food shop in the town, and the town itself has really suffered economically ever since the events of 2007. It is accessible by public transport from the town of Faro.
Pete

As a fellow vegetarian and gluten-free traveller, wherever you go in the UK or Europe you will, as you know too well, be open to problems when eating out. Self-catering is usually the best way to deal with eating when abroad. Go to local markets or supermarkets and put together a great meal from local ingredients. This method is also great for your budget.

Now for the car-free bit. I think Corsica ticks all the boxes. It's the best place in Europe for unspoilt beaches, no fast food outlets, local foods promoted enthusiastically and great regional wines. If you want a beach without a resort or tackiness and easy access, then head to the small town of Ile Rousse. It has its own ferry service to the French mainland and you can get to Nice or Marseilles from the UK by train. The beach on the town seafront is wonderful, and you can bus it or hike to remoter and wilder beaches. There is a train service on the island. The train chugs very slowly through the island so you can explore inland with ease. The food in Corsica is delicious and the town square in Ile Rousse has loads of restaurants and bars just a 20-second walk from the beach.

There is a regular food market in the town centre which offers local vegetables, fruit and honey. The local pharmacy stocks gluten free bread, biscuits and pasta. The supermarkets have no gluten-free goods, so take your own favourite supplies with you as the pharmacy has a limited range of goods.

Corsicans love the Brits; read about Nelson of Calvi and you'll find out why. Steer clear of local nationalist politics as demonstrations are noisy and volatile. However, local nationalists tend to be active out of the tourist season so as not to upset the economy. Avoid August as it the season for the French holiday crowd and the crush on the beaches is not fun.

Corsica is never boring and alway beautiful.
Charis



March 6

I am planning a trip to India where I will be going by train around the country. I have heard the ticketing system of Indian Railways is a nightmare and the queuing system shambolic. Can I book my tickets in advance or on-line? Can I use my credit card or will I need cash? How far in advance will I need to buy my tickets? Grateful for all advice.
Josh

I spent four months last year travelling all over India, by rail, bus, rickshaw, jeep, plane and boat. My first bit of advice would be, don't worry about it. Contrary to all you may have heard, the Indian railway system is very well organised. I made probably 15 to 20 different rail journeys, and didn't have a problem with my tickets once. In Mumbai, Delhi, Calcutta and Chennai, and other cities, there are ticket offices at the main stations that are dedicated solely to foreign travellers. They have a quota system which allows for a certain number of tourists to be guaranteed a seat on the train. Not all trains, mind, but certainly those between major destinations.

Also, I always just paid cash for my ticket. Your guidebook might tell you that certain stations only accept dollars or pounds from foreigners, but I paid in rupees every time, with no problems. And perhaps most important, when you go to the station always, always, always have your passport with you, with your visa in it, as that is probably the only way you will encounter major problems.

You would be very lucky to turn up on the day you want to travel and find a seat available. I always had to buy my tickets in advance. Sometimes one week, sometimes one day. My advice would be, as soon as you know where you want to head, start exploring your transport options. You may find you can't get on a certain train at a certain time, but if you are prepared to travel later or earlier, you will get a seat no problem.

I had one experience travelling between Agra (where the Taj Mahal is) and Mumbai, that shows just how well the train system is organised. I went to the train station in Delhi to book my ticket four days before I would be travelling. They could not find me a seat on the train from the main station in Agra to Mumbai. However, the guy searched the system and found me a seat on the same train, if i was prepared to catch the train from the next station down the line, which was still in Agra and only 15 mins away by rickshaw.... no worries!

There are also loads of private travel companies who will book all your tickets for you, at a slightly higher fee, but not much higher. I used this a few times. Once in Cochin I forgot to tell them where I was staying, so one of their guys spent well over an hour going to all the hostels and hotels where travellers often stay to try and find me, then knocked on my door and handed me my ticket without accepting any money for his troubles.

Most of what I learnt about the trains I learnt from speaking to other travellers, they were always happy to pass on advice. After a while, when you get used to the swing of things, you find yourself doing things automatically. Also, everything you could possibly want; food, water, crap toys, toilet paper, is available on the train or at the stations along the way.

I have some great memories of train journeys in India. Pulling out of Bangalore station at 6am, with the sun rising, playing chess with an old Indian guy sat opposite me, watching thousands of people trying to get on a train in Mumabi all at the same time, the chai wallahs, the cockroaches, the dodgy transvestites who try and seduce you (you will know when you see it), leaning out of the open doors as far as you dare when the train is going full speed, and of course, the incredible view from the window on every journey.... amazing!
Hope you enjoy your travels!
Keith

You can book tickets online, using a credit card and print them out. The railway website is indianrail.gov.in. The site does work, but you do need to be patient and not give up.
There is a small "foreign tourist quota" for rail tickets.

If you are travelling in summer/during school vacations you have to book well in advance. Some routes need to be booked way in advance all year round!

There is something called the "tatkal scheme" (should be on one of the pull down menus on the website) which lets you book a ticket for a little extra five days or so in advance. On major routes tatkal tickets get booked up fast.

It's almost impossible to get a reserved seat/berth on the day or day before you expect to travel. However, you can usually buy a ticket on most trains that lets you travel in the unreserved compartment - a sort of black of hole of cal on wheels.

There is normally a special credit card queue at major railway stations.

Connections between major towns/cities are pretty good, and hence also to smaller places along those routes. However, branch lines and non-express trains are usually slow and made slower by delays. The railway used to allow travellers to "break journey" several times on a single route. You should check if they still allow this.

Try and take one of the hill trains (Darjeeling/Ooty/Matheran), they are fantastic.
Anjali

I spent January hopping round India this year and picked up some tips. The most useful thing to have is the Indian Rail timetable. It is sold at bookshops and has routes and times. Having this and being able to plan your trip makes booking the tickets considerably easier than it might be. I found buying tickets through travel agents frustrating because everything is computerised and some of the agents couldn't answer questions such as which destinations were linked by direct trains - which as I was making up my itinerary as I went was infuriating.

At peak season the overnight journeys book up, so if you know your routes you can book online. (I'm sure one of the other readers will have the website). For example, Margao (Goa) to Hampi was booked up three weeks in advance in mid January, but then I managed to get a seat from Udapur to Mumbai (one change) just three days in advance.

The best booking experience I had was at the New Delhi Train Station. Touts will say it's closed, but it isn't, it really is upstairs and quite well signposted. I booked most of my journeys from there because they weren't charging a commission and were polite and efficient. They liked me because I knew the train numbers that I wanted before going to the desk.

The actual trains... as I wasn't booking much in advance I didn't travel in anything above SL class - the lowest class sleeper. The fans are huge and noisy but essential, and the beds are basic. No linen, just basic six-births with a thin layer of padding, not bare boards, and not clean. In some states they change gage which can get clanky and shunty during the nights. The toilet's aren't so clean, so pack your own toilet roll and hand disinfectant. For women the top bunk provides the most privacy (although that means no views), and it's fine. I wasn't hassled because I'm a woman, as I have been in other parts of the world travelling alone.

I found people to be polite and friendly, although there was a fair bit of midnight tabla playing that wasn't so fun to try to sleep near! And the hawkers (chai chai chai) can be pretty noisy. The trains within the cities - Mumbai in particular - are really regular and I was happy to find the Ladies only sections.

Some other routes are pristine - such as Delhi to Chandigarh where you have to pay more because they feed you like on a plane. It's the business line, and the food is pretty good with veg or non-veg options (no other options though so if you're lactose or gluten-free just hope for the best).

The stations vary from state to state, but are generally really badly signposted so just ask at whatever desks you find and check that your name is on the print-out they post on the platforms before you get on the train. It should correlate with your ticket. You can take back unwanted tickets, they only keep a smallish %, so there is some flexibility once you've booked.

Have fun! It's a remarkable experience with the most incredible views in many ways! Just don't catch a night train and expect to feel rested and refreshed by morning!
Catherine

We booked our tickets (Delhi-Kolkata) online, but when we got to New Delhi Station we found that they were only standby tickets and we had to re-book after a long wait in the foreigners waiting room. Then we had to go to Old Delhi Station, where we stayed the night in a truly weird and awful overnight room (now we can laugh about it).

I recommend not booking too far in advance, but allow loads of time to buy your ticket at the station, i.e. the day before, if possible. You'll have to queue for a long time. The Indian concept of a queue is to push in at the front, so everyone is coming in from the sides at the front while the polite Brit type will wait forever, seemingly never getting any closer. You just have to forget politeness and do it their way: shove. People behind you will shove you too, so keep a close eye on your stuff in the queue, though we never had any trouble of that sort. When you get to the front they will take your passport for your details, so try not to get swept back into the queue once you get there! Once you have the prized ticket you'll be fine.

When the train comes in (I recommend A/C 2-tier class if you're on a long trip) the passenger list will be on the side of the carriage. If anyone is already sitting in your reserved seat/bunk you just have to tell them it's yours and please move, or they'll be there for the whole trip and you won't have a place. Secure your pack with a chain and lock to the seat frame, and push it underneath if possible.

The train food is delicious, but don't look in the galley! The train toilets are unbelievable, so be prepared. But it's the only way to travel! If your journey is shorter, you could try a non A/C class and sit by the window and watch the magic and majestic beauty/squalor whiz by, with a nice breeze/faceful of dust. Make sure the seal on any water bottle you buy is unbroken. And drink wonderful chai. Regarding not booking in advance - I recommend the same for accommodation. Just check in somewhere you like the look of when you get there. I'm afraid I can't remember about using a credit card to buy tickets - I THINK you can check the Lonely Planet guide. And there are lots of websites and forums about travel in India worth checking.
Mikey

For longer journeys, Indian Railways used to (in 1999) hold an allocation of
tickets for foreigners and tourists. Given the difficulty to get tickets for
some journeys, this is not very fair, but it can save a lot of hassle. Tickets
are often available up to 24 hours in advance of the journey. Look out for
the special windows at railway stations for tourists, foreigners, and in the
case of Jaipur, freedom fighters.
Peter Burgess

Dear Josh,
I am based in Bangalore, India and use the railways a lot.
The ticketing system is NOT in shambles. In fact it is very good now. You can book e-tickets. And I think you can use credit cards. I don't generally do, it as I don't have a credit card. Also, if you reach the counters by about 7-7:15am and queue up, by the time it opens you can book easily. There are special counters for foreigners and there may even be passes for using several trains at the same time. There are also some luxury trains - these are expensive though.
The tatkal system helps you book a ticket just five days in advance of the day you travel in case the seats are all booked. You have to pay tatkal rates.
The following websites should help you.
indianrail.gov.in
indianrail.gov.in/intert.html
I hope you have a good time travelling by train in India.
Asha

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We are a family of four (kids aged 11 and 10) travelling from Rome up to Siena, and we need to spend a night somewhere en route. Where would you recommend we stay for what will effectively become a one-night stop over with a little time for sightseeing?
Rob

We did a similar trip a couple of years ago, but in reverse and slightly further: Sienna to Sorrento. Our two children were slightly older at 14 and 12.

Taking the main routes and with a few stops for lunch etc we did the trip in a day, about eight hours. So my advice is grit your teeth, save yourself some money and skip the overnight stay.
Owen Lennard

You have to visit Val d'Orcia. It's a UNESCO World Cultural Landscape, and it's where all the typical Italian photos of cypress trees and rolling hills are from, and really, it is that beautiful.

Pienza is the (very small) city to head for, about half hour drive off the A1 between Rome and Florence. Just outside Pienza is the villa that was used as the home in the film Gladiator, and hundreds of car commercials are filmed around the area. Pienza is small enough to explore in a couple of hours or less, and the walled village of Montichiello is a tiny example of the fortified towns all over Tuscany.

But this is an agricultural landscape, so why not stay on a farm? I stayed at the first ever agriturismo in Val d'Orcia (agriturismobarbi.it), and organic to boot. It has three flats, two of which can sleep a family of four. It's self-catering, but of course in Italy you're never far away from a great restaurant.

Have a great holiday,
Abigail Fulbrook

Nice tip for travelling in Tuscany, try Villa Pignano. It's a lovley old palace near Voltera with the most amazing swiming pool, run buy a bunch of old/new hippies living in stagering surroundings.

If you fancy a bit of rough, then you can try my place. We get our water from a spring, there is a massive climb up the hill to get there, and there is no electricity, but we've got fantastic trout stream and woodland full of animals.

Capraia

John Heseltine

Orvieto - just past the cathedral - fabulous
Tomcan

I highly recommend stopping at Agriturismo Le Case in Castiglione D'Orcia if you are travelling between Roma and Sienna. Fabio and Valeria are the perfect hosts. But more importantly the views are amazing from their beautiful old farmhouse. It's cheap and quiet, clean and so relaxing. Romantic and child friendly - an unusual combo.

The local village has a wonderful castle to visit: Rocca D'Orcia. And it's only ten minutes to Pienza, which is the first renaissance city. Also Motalcino and Montepulciano are close by.

However, the real secret gem is the hot springs nearby which are a free paradise in the nearby woods: Fosse Bianco. It's really, truly, worth going whether for a couple of nights or a week.
Bellisimo
Marc Allen

Try Lago di Bolsena, a beautiful volcanic lake exactly half way between Rome and Siena. Great swimming for the kids, and great wine and food for you two. The little town of Bolsena, on the shore, is really charming (with a medieval castle and lively streets) and there are good restaurants along the lake shore and around town.

A fabulous half-day excursion is to take a boat out on the lake to Bizentina Island - formerly the summer playground and hunting retreat of the Renaissance popes. If you can fit in an extra day, Orvieto is just over the border in southern Umbria, about 20 mins drive from the lake, and makes a great day trip.

You can get to Bolsena on the main motorway (A1 north, following for Firenze) and then at Orte get off and take the main road to Viterbo. From here follow signs to the lake (Bolsena) passing through Montefiascone. After your stay, continue on the very lovely 100km drive along the old single lane Via Cassia (SS2) to Siena. It passes through lovely Sienese countryside and you'd be able to stop at a number of nice little towns en route.

Where to stay? There are a few good looking Agriturismi around the lake. Nowhere in particular comes to mind, but if you Google “agriturismo lago di Bolsena” you'll find plenty of options.
Enjoy!
Dan

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