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February 23:

My partner and I are planning a trip to Central America in October and although the market is full of cheap airfares during this off peak season, we would prefer not to fly. We have tentatively researched freight shippassage across the Atlantic, and are thrilled at the prospect of sailing the Panama Canal or docking in New York on the journey, but are finding it hard to fit any of the itineraries into our budget (we will both have just graduated from three years at university). Having decided to spend over a month touring Panama and Mexico it seems unlikely that we can justify a one-way boat trip that costs more than a return flight! Any suggestions for alternative travel that doesn't cost the earth?
Corinne

No, not within a reasonable budget! Just fly there and enjoy the trip. When you're out there you'll find plenty of worthy causes to donate to if you want to put something back in to offset your flights. By the way, one month is far too little for a trip from Panama to Mexico! Just Mexico deserves this long (OK, considerably longer…) If you can't get a reasonable amount of time (say, 2 or 3 months), I'd limit the trip. Guatemala and Mexico, for instance, have plenty to keep you occupied for a month.
Mark

If you want to be climate friendly, don't go. Find somewhere local you don't have to fly to; have you really explored everywere interesting in your own locality? And while you're there, read some books about South America. Travel is really a journey of the mind, in the end; this way you really can go there with zero emissions.
NickB

Go to Palma de Mallorca earlier in the season and work your way around the yachties until you can find a crew that will have you and are going across on the usual migration to the Carribean - would need some sailing, deck hand, hosting (for the bigger yachts) or chefing experience but you will get paid for your troubles - sometimes handsomely (the bonus/tip being larger then the salary in cases) - and from the Caribbean you can make the cheaper transit by sea or air to Panama/Mexico with spare cash to boot.
TWest

Read 'Saddled at Sea' by Josie Dew for her voyage from Dunkirk to Panama (continuing to Auckland in her case) on a tatty container ship. Short of working your passage, that is the cheapest you will achieve and is probably what you have already found to be too expensive. Opportunities to work passages are very limited nowadays, the only practical ones seem to be as entertainers or lecturers on cruise ships. This is not very encouraging, I know, but seems to be the true position.
J.R.Batts


Shamefully, for someone born and bred in the UK, I’ve never been to the Lake District or the Scottish Highlands. I’m determined 2008 will be the year I break one of these ducks and my wife and I are planning a trip over the Easter weekend. The problem is we don’t know anything about either place, other than that they’re meant to be beautiful. Which region do people think we’d get more out of, as first-time visitors, over four nights? Can anyone suggest three-day itineraries that will enable us to experience the highlights and must-sees? Also, if we go to Scotland, we will hire a care but is it necessary to have a car in the Lakes?
Frank


It's a choice between touring a compact area (the Lakes) and exploring a much larger, much wilder one with greater distances from place to place, though more sights of special interest (the Highlands). On petrol costs, the Lakes win. Driving gives freedom but roads can get clogged in holidays. I think buses do exist that are meant to meet the needs of hikers.

The Lakes get very crowded at holiday times and you may not find a bed. But the tourist set-up there may be organised enough to seek one out for you. If there is no bed to be found in the Lakes, you could always try your luck in one of the towns round the periphery: Barrow, Ulverston, Maryport, Workington, Whitehaven etc.

The Easter weather (March 23rd, this year) might be lovely or diabolical or both: in the Lakes it can rain unbelievably hard but this applies to the West Highlands also.

If you pick the Lakes, there's Wordsworth's cottage at Grasmere and Beatrix Potter's at Sawrey, both not far outside the town of Ambleside, which is in a very attractive corner of the district and probably worth a night's stay. John Ruskin's house at Brantwood some miles to the west is worth a visit.

The town of Keswick at the other (northern) end of the district is pretty, geared to visitors/tourists, and well-placed for views etc and would be an automatic choice to stay a night - but may well be packed out.

Ullswater, Derwentwater and Wastwater are especially beautiful lakes -though everyone will have his own preference list. If you've done no hillwalking, don't be tempted to do the mountains until you've walked some lesser hills and read a book on hill-walking. It will (or should) describe the kit or clothing it's sensible to have, and will describe the hazards the hills can present. And they do.
MTill

We did both in one trip, but we had more than four nights. Both are beautiful in their own ways. Highlands are wilderness, and the Lakes are cared-for nature.

If you are looking for great wild scenery, start in Edinburgh, take the highlands-and-islands road to Skye, and come back down by way of Loch Lomond to Glasgow. You will find mountains, lochs, whisky, and the great Caledonian Canal. We stayed in B&Bs, and found a high standard of informative, interested, and friendly landlords. Then call in sick at work, so you can spend an extra two days in Glasgow. It's a great city, and it's worth hanging out there.

The Lakes are better if you are looking for nature tamed by centuries of human attention. Wordsworth, Tennyson, and Beatrix Potter are some of the humans who paid attention here. The Steamboat Museum in Windermere is worth a visit, and there's a little Stonehenge overlooking one of the lakes--can't recall the name. Finish up by going a bit south to see the world's first and best topiary garden at Livens Hall. I walked through the gate in the wall, and started laughing. It made me feel so good, that I'm laughing again now, just writing about it.
Paul and Katy

If you only have 4 nights I would suggest the lakes as it is closer and you will have to spend less time traveling per day available on holiday (this is assuming of course that you were planning to take the wonderful Caledonian sleeper train to Scotland, rather than flying, which would be a great shame considering the environmental benefits of your choice to holiday in the UK). The train to the lakes only takes 3 hours and it is beautiful watching the landscape change. While there, a car is helpful, as the local buses are somewhat erratic. Some choice outings are a trip across Ullswater on the steamer - if it's a chilly day sit with your back against the chimney to keep toasty warm, and climb Helvellyn for wonderful views. Ambleside is lovely but crammed with tourists, ditto Windemere, but worth the visit nonetheless. Keswick is a good base for your trip, but for a direct train link Penrith is an easy destination and a nice market town to spend your first night in before heading out.
Faye Scott

Why not visit Scotland by train? Fort William has excellent train links and the journey is beautiful, although Fort William itself is an ugly town the villages nearby have fantastic views of the sea loch and mountains. From Fort William (or a number of small villages along the line) you can get a train to Corrour which is a station with no road links, you walk off the platform and you are slap bang in the middle of the mountains or try a walk down to Loch Treig along the well made track from the station. There’s a B&B and small cafe in the old station house that serves excellent food and drink. Another day can be spent on a bike (bike hire for £15 in Fort William) cycling along the loch side and across the Caledonian Canal to Gairlochy via Neptune’s Staircase. If walking is your thing then a trip up The Ben is a must (just make sure you have an easy rest day planned for the following day!). Oh and please, never, ever call it Fort Bill.
Claire Maw


Over the last three years we have luckily chosen very beautiful and interesting places in which to stay - Sorrento, Taormina, Deia. I would like to find an equally wonderful place to visit this summer but have no ideas and wondered if you have any suggestions bearing in mind that we loved the three places mentioned. We are a family of six - our four children are aged between 18-24!
Kay

Desenzano on Lake Garda will be perfect for you if you loved Sorrento and Taormina. Desenzano is beautiful and a bit bigger than the other towns on the lake. It has excellent rail links to Verona, Milan and Venice and is easily reached from Verona Airport. The views over the lake are spectacular and you can get a ferry for days out to the other towns on the lake. I highly recommend exploring the castle at Sirmione, wine tasting in Bardolino and visiting the Dolomites by cable car from Malcesine. Desenzano has lots of beautiful hotels, shops, cafes and bars. On an evening there is a lovely relaxed culture of having a drink or an ice cream while enjoying the warm evening. I went here a couple of years ago when I was 21 with my sister and parents. We all love Italy and this was one of our best family holidays. Very highly recommended.
AStevenson


February 15:

We are planning our honeymoon for September 2008 and have narrowed it down to three choices: a trip to Malaysia (the island of Pangkor Laut and then 10 days on Borneo doing wildlife and beaches), a holiday in Brazil (probably starting in Salvador and finishing in Rio) or a safari/beach combo in Tanzania. Can anyone help focus our minds? Or perhaps there is another option we haven't considered? We are looking to get away from the beaten track whilst retaining the 'honeymoon' feel of special hotels and stunning locations. A rich culture, great food options and minimal internal flights are also essentials.
ChloeAndJon

We went to Malaysia for our honeymoon in September 2005. It was a nice tropical setting without the typical tropical price tag. It was not overly hot and although there were some heavy downpours due to the time of year, these were over before you had realised they had started. I also enjoyed the fact that it wasn't swarming with people. We went to Lankawi to relax at the beach, staying at a hotel nestled on the edge of a rainforest. We then spent time in Kuala Lumpur and had a trip to the Taman Nagara National Park. This was definitely different to how I imagined my honeymoon - bird watching and creepy crawly searching walks are not usually my thing, but it was great fun.
The food is delicious - lots of seafood and curries and fresh fruit. There are lots of Chinese and Thai restaurants as well. Beautiful scenery and lots of culture - each area or state is very different and the terrain varies a lot.
Johanne and Craig

I've just returned from a year long, 22-country round-the-world trip and found Tanzania to be my favourite place of all. We spent five days on safari going to Lake Manyara, the Serengeti and the Ngorongor Crater and were fortunate to be there during the amazing wildebeest migration. It was our first safari and got us completely hooked - spending a whole day with honeymooning lions watching them alternate between eating a wildebeest and mating about a dozen times. We were also able to see a pair of cheetahs hunting, chasing and killing an impala - absolutely amazing. I'd recommend just getting a flight to Kilimanjaro airport and then a transfer to Arusha. There are many safari companies there and the competition seems to keep prices fairly low. We then spent a month on Zanzibar. Stone Town is worth a few nights just to check out the local culture. The people are really lively and so friendly, we particularly loved the nighttime fish stalls on the seafront where you can just choose whatever you want from the fresh catch laid out on tables and then watch as they cook it for you on the spot. We spent most of our time at Kendwa beach on the north-western coast - lovely golden sand, a few hotels but all fairly small and not too crowded, plenty of life, a selection of bars and restaurants serving delicious fresh seafood and a stunning sunset each night.
It's worth checking out the east coast as well though - much quieter, huge long stretches of deserted beach, locals farming seaweed, proper desert island stuff. I'd also recommend a few days on Pemba, the smaller island to the north, reached by ferry. It's much quiter, very much less developed and has a totally different feel, but, again, it's easy to find a deserted beach and spend the day hanging out with crabs and watching the birdlife go by. Our blog has more details on the full trip.
Jim


I hoped someone might have some bright ideas or recommendations about where to fit a little R & R into a little trip my boyfriend and I are planning in early summer. He is a rather reluctant traveller, and usually shows little inclination to leave the UK, but he is actually excited about the idea of my proposed tour through Berlin, Prague, Budapest, Vienna and (possibly, but not definitely) Trieste, using trains to travel between cities, spending a couple of days in each. However, as much as I like to spend my holidays in cities, it would also be nice to spend a few days relaxing somewhere in a lake-like area where we can swim, laze around, walk, and look at beautiful scenery. Neither of us drive, so it needs to be accessible by public transport, and near to one of the cities we intend to visit.
AWard

If you want a good lake, try Lake Balaton in Hungary. It's relatively close to Budapest (from what I remember, about 2 hours by train) and there are a lot of train stops along the edge. Good luck and have fun.
PS: Night trains are not fun when you cross many borders overnight - be careful of that!
JCoombes

Lake Bled in Slovenia's Triglav National Park would fit nicely into your itinerary, being located in between Vienna and Trieste. Bled really is a fairytale setting, with the town's medieval castle perched on top of a 130 metre cliff overlooking the lake, and its tiny island, complete with a 15th century monastery, set against the stunning backdrop of the snow-capped Julian Alps. The area offers an abundance of beautiful scenery and great walks including the spectacular Vintgar Gorge, while the larger and less developed Lake Bohinj is just 10 miles up the road. The area is easily reached from Ljubljana (35 miles from Bled and connected to Vienna by direct rail links) which is itself well worth a visit for its great riverside cafe culture, with excellent Slovenian wines served up for as little as one euro a glass!
Adam S

Croatia has some spectacular scenery along the Adriatic and is close to Trieste. It's also a great value right now - and a well-kept secret!
CEdwards

This sounds like a lovely trip. If you go through Switzerland you
will find many reasonably priced spas. Last summer I went to Leukerbad
in the Valais which has a big range of walking, two large public spas
and some more in hotels. There is a regular train to Leuk and the bus
up the mountain meets the train. Some of the cable cars run in the
summer too, so there is easy access to the high trails.
LGoldberg

My wife and I did most of your projected trip a few years ago. We took in Vienna, Budapest and Trieste. Train service between those cities is excellent and a Eurailpass is the way to go. We took the Eurostar from Waterloo to Paris and then, on the same day, an overnight train to Vienna, with a sleeping compartment. You could include Bled in Slovenia, which is between Budapest and Trieste. Bled is on a lake in the mountainous area of Slovenia and is well served by bus from the capital, Ljubljana. Bled is, if memory serves me correctly, less than a two-hour bus ride from Ljubljana. I was already familiar with Vienna and Trieste, but I have to give high marks to our visit to Budapest, where we spent a week sampling the delights of Old Europe. Trieste is almost my spiritual home, due to the fact that I spent such a happy time there during my National Service in the late 40s. I have been back at least six times. Jan Morris, one of my favourite travel writers, has written an excellent book, 'Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere' - please read it before you go. And I wish I were coming with you - it's a wonderful trip.
John Perkins

My favorite R&R spot in continental Europe is Hallstatt, Austria in the fabled Salzkammergut region. It can be reached by train by changing trains at Attnang-Puchheim, on the main rail link between Vienna and Salzburg. Hallstatt is perched on a slender piece of land between a mountain and a lake, on the opposite shore from the train tracks. A small ferry meets every train to escort you across the water to the town. Hallstatt (literally 'salt place' or 'salt city' in a blend of Celtic and German languages) is ancient, with nearby salt mines providing a valuable resource for millennia (there is evidence of salt mining dating back 7,000 years). It is so significant that an archeological period is named after it (straddling the late Bronze Age to the early Iron Age). Accessible by a tram, the salt mines can be toured, as well as a number of historic sites. You may visit historic sites by accident: Roman ruins, unearthed by chance during a renovation, are visible in the cellar of a sports store on the village square. Though few structures survived a fire in 1750, the town retains its historic charm. Hallstatt’s greatest attraction is its pedestrian scale, quiet ambience, and gentle flow of life. It’s as calm as the mirror-surfaced lake (Hallstaetter See) which it abuts, and its narrow streets beckon a stroll. Everything is within a ten minute walk. Enjoy a swim in the refreshing mountain lake water, take a romantic human-powered boat ride aboard a traditional Fuhr (not unlike a Venetian gondola), or sit in the lakeside park and watch the imported swans. My recommendation is to spend less time sightseeing and more time relaxing. A number of years back, a tunnel was blasted through the mountain, allowing restricted access by car. This, coupled with the town being inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, has increased tourist traffic. But, stay in a pension on the narrow north end of town and you will miss most of the traffic; plus, early summer will have fewer tourists. Ask for a room with a view (Zimmer mit Aussicht, bitte) and your room will open out onto the lake.
Mike Oneby


Can anyone give a sense of what Montenegro could offer as a family holiday destination? We would like to stay in a villa for a few days and maybe travel round by car. Our children range from 16 to 7 and we enjoy sport, especially tennis and swimming, good food, visiting new places and ancient sites. What is the cost of living and how expensive is eating out? How safe is it? What are the beaches like?
SHymas

I have been to Montenegro with my family (kids aged 5 and 8) several times and I can highly recommend it. Although it is less sophisticated than Croatia, which it resembles, Montenegro has a more charm in many ways. You have probably seen enough photos to know Montenegro is a stunning country and while the beaches (which are great) get very crowded in the high season, the interior of the country is virtually uninhabited and well worth exploring. The Jezero lake is vast, and has a series of secret beaches and islands, and the Nera Gorge is said to be the most dramatic and deep in Europe. There is also a great wilderness area on a peninsula near to Herzeg Novi, just south of Dubrovnik. What is particularly appealing about the country is the people, who are more friendly than in Croatia and other more developed countries - where one feels like just one of millions of foreign tourists. The food is good - especially the pizzas and the fish - and the prices are reasonable. But do remember that it gets very crowded in August - the roads as well as the beaches. I can say it is one of the safest places in Europe. Although they were near to the Bosnian fighting of the 1990s, and they have a reputation for resisting the Turks in battle, the Montenegrians are very peaceful and there is no sense of casual violence or aggression one feels in many places in the UK. They might be dangerous in a war, but these people will make sure you come to no harm. I am based in Romania and I go to Montenegro by sleeper train from Belgrade - an incredible adventure which takes you through the most impressive series of forested mountains that I have ever witnessed. It is one of the most attractive and intriguing destinations in Eastern Europe. Go there before it gets spoiled.
Rupert Wolfe Murray

Having spent two weeks in Montenegro in September 2006, I would recommend it as a holiday destination without hesitation. It is easily accessible from the UK and offers a range of attractions to suit any taste. Whilst the base for the majority of our stay was the family-run Villa Balic in Sveti Stefan, we found that we were able to take lots of day trips which were affordable and well-organised. The restaurants and entertainment of Budva provided a welcome break from the relatively tranquil Sveti Stefan. Buses ran regularly from 8am until 1am from Sveti Stefan into the heart of the town for only 1€ and we got to know the narrow streets, historical monuments and bustling squares of Budva’s Stari Grad (old town) rather well. I would not recommend hiring a car during your stay as many of the roads are coastal, narrow and unlit. Owing to the work going into improving the general infrastructure of the country, some major roads were closed or under repair when we were there. I would whole-heartedly recommend making the most of the organised tours and transport as buses are inexpensive and seemingly a lot less stressful than driving on the roads I saw. In terms of ancient sites, Montenegro has many. I would recommend taking the time to visit Kotor. Its medieval architecture - particularly its churches and palaces - earnt its status as a UNESCO listed site. It is also well worth visiting Tivat for its market and marina and also Cetinje, the capital of Montenegro. Cetinje is interesting from a political and historical perspective as many wars have been fought there. What is striking with all of these places is the beauty and the stark difference to what we are used to. Montenegro is a culturally and historically captivating place and it would be a shame not to witness firsthand its fascinating heritage. It is also fairly easy to visit Croatia and Albania from Montenegro and I would certainly recommend seeing Dubrovnik whilst you are in that neck of the woods. That’s not to say that more frivolous fun cannot be had in Montenegro! You will find that there are lots of opportunities to partake in watersports, ranging from jet skiing on the Budva Riviera to white water rafting in the Durmitor National Park. We found the beaches clean, uncrowded, safe and unspoilt. There are lots of beaches to be discovered. It is commonplace to see open-air theatre around Budva and musicians in lots of the restaurants, which added to the friendly and sociable atmosphere we enjoyed. Eating out is very cheap. In Sveti Stefan (apparently the most expensive resort in Montenegro and frequented by celebrities) we found that eating out in restaurants was not expensive compared to other holidays, however, the food was very mixed. We found certain restaurants were far better than the limited menus offered in others. It is best to ask the locals and find out where they eat. In doing so, we were able to eat some really good, affordable food and we tried lots of the local delicacies – particularly Prsuta ham, a few local cheeses, Krstac wine and Nik beer. Hope this helps!
AStiles

Montenegro is one of the most beautiful places I have seen. Its unspoilt beauty is breathtaking and the drive along the cost from Dubrovnik (Croatia) to Kotor in Montenegro is not to be missed. I spent my time in Kotor and around the Budva area. There are wonderful old towns, nice beaches, mountains for walking and plenty of ornate churches and buildings to visit. There was a fair bit of hotel building when I was there last year and they have the full range from hostels to spa hotels - prices are fairly reasonable. I found public transport between towns a bit difficult to navigate but car hire was cheap enough. I felt safe when I was there and there are plenty of pizza places and fish restaurants to eat in - all of which are very reasonably priced. There are exquisite boutiques for clothes shopping - some of the best shoe shops I have ever come across. I was there out of season but I did notice a lot of tennis courts and there are the usual pedal boats and water sports availale at the bigger complexes. I would definitely recommend it - and if you are thinking of touring the area then Dubrovnik is not too far away.
Johanne

Montenegro is a beautiful country - food great, safe and great
people... but one thing to beware of: just because it's only just been
'discovered' by Britain, doesn't mean it's unvisited! Don't go in July or
August if you are expecting long stretches of unspoilt beach - it is
absolutely packed, much more than, say, the Costas or Majorca. Russians,
Serbs, Hungarians and assorted East Europeans have been holidaying here foryears and it is full. We stayed at Perast in Kotor bay. It is breathtaking and for me one of the most beautiful views anywhere in the world - the only fjord in the Mediterranean. Water is fine, but no real beaches here, just little bars and swimming platforms. Kotor itself is enchanting and driving inland to
the ancient capital Cettinje is amazing - although the city, bypassed by
recent history, is pretty run down (if fascinating). Food is brilliant - I really recommend it - but avoid the beaches in the height of summer.
Mark

Montenegro is a wonderful place. As Europe's newest nation, and one created from the wreckage of Yugoslavia, it has a broad range of atmospheres: from ancient ruins through post-Communist austerity and onwards to nouveau-riche millionaires' playground. Travel is simple enough as the roads are adequate, notably the coast road which provides a good basis for exploring the beaches. This road also give great access to arguably Montenegro's most attractive feature, the largest fjord outside Scandinavia. To circumnavigate this is a real joy, and comes highly recommended.
Food in Montenegro is still cheap, and for the most part quite good. That said, the Montenegran coast was always one of Yugoslavia's tourist destinations and restaurants are priced accordingly, while service quality is still somewhat Communist in nature. Montenegro is a perfectly safe place, at least it is as safe as both Croatia and Slovenia, both established tourist sites. If anything it is safer.
Chris Green


February 8:

I will be travelling to Ireland with my wife on holiday, picking up a rental car in Dublin and spending one or two nights in Ennis, Killarney, Dungarvan and Wicklow. We have never been to Ireland before (we're from New Zealand), and would love some ideas for interesting places to stop off - gardens, historic sites, tearooms, pubs etc. We're both 60 and enjoy good food and wine. Can anyone help with suggestions to make it a perfect holiday?
DFerguson

Definitely don't miss Muckross Abbey, a ruin just outside Killarney on the road to Kenmare. Kenmare is another don't miss spot, with a gorgeous stone circle right in the middle of town, a nice used bookshop, and some good restaurants. Not to mention nice walks - get an ordinance survey map and spend time chasing old ring forts!
TFisher

The Slieve Bloom mountain range is definitely worth checking out on your way from Dublin to Ennis - it is the most beautiful mountain range in Ireland and quite undiscovered, with millions of forest trails to walk around. You could then stop in Kinnity in one of the pubs for a meal before heading off to Ennis. From Ennis, the drive to Killarney will be fantastic, taking in some of Ireland's best scenery. You'll pass places like Dingle (worth stopping and having a lunch/dinner here in one of the numerous cafes) and Ventry/Dun Chaoin (home of Páidí Ó Sé, Kerry football captain) for a pint of Guinness!
In Killarney, bikes can be rented and a day's cycling can take place encompassing both the massive lakes of the area. If you are really brave, rent a boat and go trout fishing for the day and cook your catch with some butter and lemon! Perfect... The road from Killarney to Dungarvan will also be a great drive. In west Cork: try the mussels in Bantry, the meats and cheeses from Clonakilty and then in Dungarvan go for another pint of the black stuff! In Wicklow, relax in Powescourt spa and treatment centre, and eat in the award winning Avoca restaurant.
TMcMahon

First - why aren't you going to include Cork on your itinerary? If you want to experience some of the great scenery of Ireland you should visit Cork. For lovers of food & wine, it's a great place too - highlights include Cafe Paradiso in Cork City, Fishy Fishy Cafe in Kinsale, Hayes's bar in Glandore and Casino House in Kilbrittain - and especially the English Market in Cork City!

I'm no expert on Ennis or Killarney, but just spent a weekend travelling in the Waterford area. Do include a visit to Lismore - it's lovely! Check out the gardens, art gallery, castle and cathedral there. It’s on the road from Killarney to Waterford. From there head to Dungarvan. The Tannery is a great place to eat there. They also have a B&B. Consider taking the coast road from Dungarvan to Tramore - the villages that you would drive through are very quiet and there aren't too many opportunities for food and wine that I know of, but the scenery is breathtaking.

Consider taking the ferry from Passage East across to Wexford (although this would mean bypassing Waterford City). Dunbrody house is close to the ferry on the Wexford side - never been there but it gets lots of great reviews. Then stop by Tintern Abbey on your way on towards Wicklow.

Just South of Dublin at Kilpedder on the Wicklow-Dublin road is a lovely cafe called Marc Michel's which would be a great stop for lunch. Avoca is just beyond this - good spot to shop for souvenirs before you head home, and there's also a cafe here but the food is better at Marc Michel's in my opinion (although good here too)! Hope you have a great trip!
AO'Sullivan


Our son is studying at Oregon University for a year and we plan to take a family holiday in the north-west of America for three or four weeks in July. We have a vague plan to start in San Francisco and drive up to Vancouver, taking in Portland and Seattle on the way. There are six of us so we'll probably rent a house at some point - possibly on the Oregon coast, but the rest of the time we'll stay in B&Bs/hotels (definitely the Ace hotel as recommended by Beth Ditto). Are there places we shouldn’t miss? Maybe inland would be more interesting than the coast? I need to start planning but am paralysed by indecision...
DHall

About five years ago, my husband and I spent three nights in the Olympic National Park along Washington's north-west coast. The park is home to crystal-clear glacier lakes, stunning mountain views, and the still and almost ghostly Hoh River Valley - a rain forest filled with Western Red Cedars that can live for 1000 years and grow 20 feet in diameter. It is a bit 'off the beaten track', but we rather enjoyed the overall lack of tourists with their vehicles and noise. Hope this recommendation is helpful.
JCheslock

It is an enormously long drive from San Francisco to Portland, so take the scale of these large western states into consideration before you commit yourself. It might be better to fly to Portland, then take a trip out to see the beautiful Oregon coast. The train ride from Portland to Seattle is beautiful, and you'll see the Cascade mountain range peaks. Seattle to Vancouver is best accomplished by ferry, or you can take a ferry out to many of the islands in Puget Sound. You would really only need a car for the Oregon coast part - you won't want one in the cities.
Done that drive before in a Volkswagen Beetle with five people

Great idea. I recommend starting in San Francisco. Check out the Italian restaurants in North Beach; with luck there may still be one or two of the old fashioned diners, where you sit down at a long table with other customers and choose from a limited menu of good old-fashioned Italian "dishes of the day".
Take route 1 across the Golden Gate Bridge into quaint Sausalito (I wonder if the hippy houseboats are still there) then follow it all the way up the coast. Jenner Russian Gulch Park is worth a stop. I found a B&B around there called the "Victorian Guest House" that was furnished like my grandparent's was. As you follow the coastal highway you'll find the views are simply breathtaking; be certain to have a video and a good stills camera with you.
Past Rockport you'll have to leave Route 1 and take 208 over to 101, this (208) is a twisty road through magnificent forest with tumbling streams. As you continue you'll find yourself amongst the giant sequoias (redwoods), another magnificent site.
Garberville is an interesting spot. Half the town is redneck loggers and the other half are rich hippies with marijuana plantations hidden in the nearby hills. The main street is the divider between the two groups.
Further along, Eureka, when I was there, was described to me by a resident as a town where rich divorcees retired to.
Somewhere north of Reedsport there is a logger's restaurant that makes a fascinating detour, but unless one of the locals can tell you where it is, don't try to find it!
I can't take you any further north because my own intent was to visit Crater Lake, the scene for "Close Encounters of the Third Kind". I took 199 from Crescent City, following gorgeous scenery along the Smith River. All along the Redwood Highway through Selma, Grants Pass, Gold Hill, then 234 to the amusing town of Shady Cove. I asked a local about the name and he said it was probably the shady deals done there, laughing.
At this point I found that my non-4WD vehicle couldn't negotiate the mountain roads covered in snow and ice (it was December, after all) and turned back, heading for Nevada, and crossed the mountains, ending up at Reno, worth a visit and a nicer town than Las Vegas.
All in all this is a fabulous journey and one that you will fondly remember for the rest of your days.
Clive Warner

You know, in my experience, crossing the border there has been such a miserable experience, that I try to find ways around it. I suggest: either avoid Seattle, or depart Seattle for Port Angeles. Catch a ferry there to either Victoria (with fun exploration up Vancouver Island), and a second ferry to Vancouver, or there might possibly be a ferry from Port Angeles to Vancouver direct. Enjoy!
ZAppleton (San Francisco native)

The Tu Tu' Tun Lodge on the Rogue River, a few miles north of the California/Oregon border, is beautiful. More expensive than a B&B, but if you're in the mood for a splurge, it's beautiful, has a great kitchen, and is on a splendid spot on the Rogue River. Worth a detour.
A.W., New York

As an Oregon native, I'd say give yourself four weeks, especially if you want to include San Francisco. Don't underestimate how long Highway 1 will take to drive: long days in the car yield 250-300 miles max. Redwoods National Park, however, is spectacular and well worth it if you're in the area. Consider saving San Francisco for another holiday and getting a commuter flight to Fort Bragg, California, where you could rent the car for the rest of your trip. This would spare you a torturous (if scenic) 200+ miles of driving and still allow you either to see a lot of stunning coastline on your way up to Redwoods or to cut inland for some fine vineyards, or both. If you are a fan of kitsch, do stay at Motel Trees, opposite the Trees of Mystery roadside attraction. Clean, comfortable, hilarious (yet filling) breakfasts, and a view of the world's largest Paul Bunyan statue out your window ($65pn).

From there, you have two options: the first is to head up the gorgeous Oregon coast, stopping at Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, Newport, and Yaquina Head and Beverley Beach; past Lincoln City, stay at Cannon Beach for a few days and use it to explore Manzanita, Oswald West State Park, and Tillamook Bay. From there, you could drive inland on Highway 26 or Highway 30 to Portland.

Or the other option, which I would slightly recommend, would be to cut inland on Highway 199 out of Crescent City, and either stay a night in Ashland or head straight up to Crater Lake National Park (their lodge is expensive but worth it). From there, head up Hwy. 97 into central Oregon, either via the Cascade Lakes Hwy (mountains, rivers, lakes, and a hiker's paradise -- Green Lakes trail is a day-hike favorite) or the Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Either rent a house at Sun River Resort or spend a few nights in Bend at the McMenamin St. Francis School: either are good jumping off points for the area. Once you've had your fill of the excellent restaurants, rafting, riding, kayaking and maybe even late-season skiing, head north again on Highway 97. Drive through the Warm Springs Reservation on Highway 26, and consider staying a night at the top of Mt. Hood at the 1930s W.P.A.-built and majestic Timberline Lodge. Instead of continuing on Highway 26, loop back down the far side of the mountain on Highway 35, which will give you a beautiful drive along the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic area (about two hours) into Portland. From Portland, you could either loop back down the Oregon coast a bit, drive up through Astoria and back into Portland, or you could simply head up I-5 to Washington.

In Washington, it is well worth it to detour and see Mt St Helens; from there you could drive through Mt Ranier National Park and into Seattle. Your penultimate stop should be Vancouver Island. Spend a couple of nights in Victoria, which is like a twee version of Westminster (their Parliament lights up like Disneyland) but is a beautiful and easily traversable town. Obviously, as with anywhere in the Pacific Northwest that's coastal, the seafood is highly recommended. One of my favourite places on this planet is Ucluelet, reached via Highway 4 via Port Alberni. On the windswept western side of the island, there are empty, dramatic beaches, wonderful hiking and tourist-friendly hotsprings. Strathcona Park, Tofino, and increasingly Nanaimo are all worthwhile destinations. The further north-west you head, the emptier and more stunning the scenery. Finally, take the ferry from Nanaimo to Vancouver.
KAnderson

I have driven Vancouver-San Francisco-Vancouver several times. July is a busy month but nevertheless, if time permits, I advise the coastal route. The I5 is faster and you will still see majestic mountains and breathtaking scenery, but the coastal route is so much prettier. Once I saw a rock that seemed to be moving and on closer inspection it was a whale.

Laconnor on Puget Sound is a wonderful place to stop and sit by the sea while you eat. The Chuckanut trail from there to Bellingham is a must - winding road with spectacular view of the Pacific on one side with lush forest on the other, it will make it hard to keep your eyes on the road. It should not be missed. It leads back to the I5 through Bellingham to get you to the Canadian border within minutes, maybe 20.

There is a peninsula of USA that can only be reached over land by going through Canada, Point Roberts. I can't remember if the perimeter is 16 miles or 16 kilometres, although I lived there for a while. Pretty little town and I believe it's the only place in the US that sells gas by the litre. It's a slight detour off the 99 in Canada leading to Vancouver. "Point Bobs" is about 35 minutes from Vancouver depending on traffic. It has been referred to as a spiritual chakra of the world.

The sea-to-sky highway from Vancouver to Whistler is the most scenic highway I have driven. Should you decide to do it, take the marine drive route through West Vancouver, the richest community in Canada. Beautiful view of the sea, with homes dotting the coast until you reach Horseshoe Bay where you connect to the highway. Horseshoe Bay also has many good seafood restaurants. There are vista points along the way where you can stop and admire nature's most beautiful artwork.

The Pacific North West is among the most beautiful places in the world. I am writing this from Argentina and I have lived in Thailand, Chile and Peru as well as eastern Canada and the prairies. I have seen many beautiful places and only one spot in Chile rivals the spectacular Pacific north-west. I wish you good weather and a great holiday.
DO'Brien

You can't go wrong driving the coastal route north from San Francisco. It is extraordinarily beautiful. You might find it enjoyable to continue up the Olympic Peninsula (perhaps with an excursion to the Olympic National Park) followed by an auto ferry trip across the Strait of Juan de Fuca from Port Angeles to Victoria on Vancouver Island. Vancouver itself is not far away. Do note that this route is lightly populated and rugged. There are places without cellphone coverage and some of the routes across the Coastal Range in Oregon should only be attempted by drivers who find Swiss mountain roads acceptable. I live in Seattle and grew up in the US. The flexible traveller will find this a superb place to be indecisive. Decisions can be made (mostly) on the fly.
RLeach

As an Englishman living in Vancouver I have made the most of visiting Washington and Oregon states on weekend trips, savouring the rugged but beautiful coastline and warm hospitality that many of the coastal places there have to offer. My two recommendations would be Portland and Cannon Beach, both located in Oregon. Portland is more relaxed and picturesque than its northerly neighbour Seattle. I would recommend heading downtown to sample one of the many micro-breweries (the city is the nation’s microbrew capital), some of the best beer in North America in a very scenic setting.

Following this, I would head up to Cannon Beach on the Oregon/Washington coastal state border. This sleepy town sits on the edge of some of the most beautiful sprawling beaches on the West Coast. This town (and neighbouring Astoria) was the setting for the classic movie The Goonies and the landscape is every bit as breathtaking as in the film. The people are extremely welcoming and the accommodation very reasonable. I would suggest booking a B&B in one of the old colonial houses in either Cannon Beach or Astoria. Hope that this helps with your itinerary!
AEmmerson


February 1:

I am an upper 6th form student planning on taking a gap year, and I'm looking for suggestions for books or websites which offer not-for-profit volunteer projects (preferably in Asia)? Ive been looking for ages and they all seem to be very expensive and only for the benefit of the student.
Fred

I also spent months trawling the internet to find a non profit organisation for my gap year and cam accross a complete beauty: Development in Action. I spent the best two months of my life in Pondicherry, South India but there are opportunities for two- or five-month projects all over India from women's empowerment to HIV/AIDS education to teaching English. There are also opportunities for becoming involved afterwards with a magazine and committee. I just cannot recommend it highly enough, especially if you have never been to a developing country - they give you support and help throughout the whole process. Sounds perfect for you!
ANewman

When I went on my gap year I did it with a charity called Project Trust, which I thoroughly recommend. The amount of money you need to raise is very reasonable and includes your flights; also the projects are either foreight months or a year which means you really get to experience the culture. I spent eight months teaching in Uganda, but I think they do placements in Asia. I would definitely recommend checking their website out.
Vicky

I spent six months living on a farm on the Austrian Czech border with EVS (European Voluntary Service) when I was 19, and it was one of the best experiences of my life. I was a volunteer at the refurbishing of a horse railway museum, for which I received sponsorship covering full board annd lodging, pocket money and language lessons. It was a really brilliant experience and I returned with near fluent German and almost as a different person. It really was a life changing experience.
Z Davis

There are a number of well structured volunteer programmes that would suit
someone embarking on a Gap Year. An organisation that brings together the
best operators in the UK market is the Year Out Group. All of the members abide by a charter that ensures best practice in areas like health and safety and responsible travel. Not all of the members are not-for-profit but a little bit of research will soon establish which of the organisations will suit you best. Good luck with your travels!
RNimmo

You've probably come across this one in your searching, but Project Trust is the way to go. I don't think I could recommend anything else more highly. It's a charity that offers much more than the usual profit-taking companies, who only really focus on the short-term. Once described as 'the Rolls-Royce' of Gap Year organisations, Project Trust offers genuine voluntary posts across the world to students who want to do something more fecund with their time overseas than most travellers. There are a range of posts to fill, but the majority are teaching, of which most involve teaching English. I spent 11 months in Sri Lanka 2006/7, living in a Buddhist temple, teaching English to kids from seven to 17 in state schools that were suffering from a lack of resources. Our time there was productive, thanks to PT's training, and rewarding for all involved. The only trouble is that being in the upper sixth form, you'll have very little time to raise the required sum of money. I hope that you work something out anyway.
DKennedy

I am in exactly the same position, and with a great deal of research have come up with very little. Interestingly the other letter featuring this week gives one option - Worldwide Opporutnities on Organic Farms - which involves trading room and board at one of many farms aound the world, for your help on the farm. VSO is not-for-profit, but the schemes are one year long, and still cost around £900. If money rather than altruism is the main issue, the scheme I am going with is called Original Volunteers and for some unknown reason is much much cheaper than all the others. A friend has gone to Peru with them and says they are totally trustworthy. The final option is to go to wherever you want to be, probably with a friend, and turn up at any school/orphanage you happen upon and ask if they need help. Anecdotally this seems to be highly successful (but only for the brave!). Best of luck, and maybe I'll see you out there in the big wide world.
Anna Sheinman


My partner and I are finally getting round to doing something we've
been promising ourselves for years: we're going to take our girls out
of school for the spring term 2009 (they'll be nearly 10 and 7 1/2) to
go and spend a good chunk of time in a different country. I speak
Spanish and I'm teaching it to the girls, and my partner knows a bit, so we want to go to a Spanish-speaking country, but not Spain as we want to visit somewhere more culturally different - ideally somewhere where we can get away from rampant consumerism. We don't want to spend the whole time moving around, but would rather get stuck in somehow -
we've looked at WWOOF (worldwide opportunities on organic farms) and are interested in that kind of thing. Has anyone done this? Any
suggestions on countries, or organisations? Any tips on how to best
prepare, especially for the kids?
Miranda Armstrong

You could do worse than Finca la Flor, a vegetarian farm in Costa Rica (not too far from Cartago, one of the biggest cities in Costa Rica). Lovely setting, plenty of work to do. Nice animals to work with - the kids'll love the kids (goat kiddies)! You can do Spanish courses if you choose, but they also have informal Spanish English classes for Spanish kids, so I'm sure your kids could end up playing around with Ticito's and speaking better Spanish than you in no time at all.
IBrophy

My parents took my sister and I out of school for a term when we were 14 and 17 to live overseas for three months. Although your children are younger, you'll have the same concerns about them getting behind their peers, but a term is a short time in relation to all the years of school they have ahead of them, so they're unlikely to fall too far behind. The benefit to them in other areas is huge - they'll learn to interact with people who speak another language which will build their confidence, and they'll experience another way of life which will really expand their worldview. My only advice would be to sit them down and talk about what they're expecting from the trip, and don't force them to cram in too much sightseeing if they really don't want to: sometimes just being in another country is enough to adjust to for kids.
SMcCallum

Have a look at Farm stays in Chile - it has three farm options. They're accommodation rather than volunteer-style projects, but you could try contacting the owners directly to see if you could work out a reduced rate for some help around the farms.
JPaley

Cross-cultural Solutions has a section of their website dedicated to families who want to go on volunteering holidays - scroll to the bottom of the homepage and there's a link to testimonials from families who have taken part. There's also good tips on when/where to go and what you can do. Good luck finding the perect trip!
MBruce

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