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The knowledge: January 2008
Ponte Vecchio, Florence


Do you have a travel query you need advice on? Email it to been.there@guardian.co.uk, or try our travel talkboard.

January 25:

We always go away for long weekend for birthdays - usually somewhere in Europe. Recent high spots have been Porto, Lisbon, Valencia and Hamburg. I'd like to do the same this year particularly as it's a birthday with a big '0'. The problem is that this year my birthday falls on the early Easter weekend and I'm totally stumped about where to go that will be 'open' for sightseeing and generally hanging out in nice bars/cafes etc. Preferably I'd like somewhere with a slightly warmer climate than the UK, with budget flights from an airport in the south-west (Birmingham at a push) and reasonable flight times for just a few days. Any ideas?
Isobel


The city of Nice on the Cote d'Azur has everything for a long weekend: it is set on a wonderful bay with a pebbly beach and the Promenade des Anglais to stroll along, as well as Vieux Nice which is fascinating. There are lots of cafes and restaurants from which to watch the world go by and savour local cuisine. There are wonderful art galleries and architecture; the shopping is excellent (the flower market is a must), as is the transport system, including a brand new tramway within the city, and buses which will take you along the coast and up to hill villages. The flight, with either Easyjet or BA who both go there all year round, takes about one hour 40 minutes with an easy transfer by bus into the city. I'm sure you will thoroughly enjoy Nice. There is something for all tastes and because it will be Easter there will be a real festive buzz. Go! It's wonderful!
Bovriltrudy


I live in Girona, a Ryanair hub (with flights to and from Bristol) which many people use to get down to Barcelona. However it is a great town with plenty going on, top class restaurants, easy access to Barcelona by train (€12 return) or if you hire a car, to the foothills of the Pyrenees and the nicer bits of the Costa Brava. Not necessarily a huge amount warmer than the UK, but generally a lot brighter! The only downside is that it is a bit short on hotels, so you need to book early.
RHunter


A wonderful place to visit over the Easter weekend would be Greece, more specifically Athens. Orthodox Easter is celebrated in Greece, meaning that shops and restaurants wouldn't be closed in observance of western Easter. Athens is a surprising vibrant and cosmopolitan city. The seaside area of Glyfada is filled with fantastic cafes, bars, shops, restaurants and beach clubs. Psirri, an area in the center of Athens, has a booming nightlife and is full of a bohemian young crowd. There is, of course, also a wealth of historical and archeological sites to visit. The average high temperature in April is 20.2 C/68.4 F and many locals swim in the sea year-round. There are low-cost flights available from the UK. A great place for a long weekend in Europe. Hope you have a great birthday trip!
Hestia


As a long weekend break I would highly recommend Istanbul. If the stunning mosques and Ottoman architecture don't fascinate you, there is always the grand bazaar or spice markets. Ferries run up and down the Bospherous, constantly connecting the Dead Sea with the Sea of Marmara. The food is exceptional. Whether you'd like to try a real kebab at the top of Istekal where the stall sells over 10,000 per day, or sit in an outdoor restaurant overlooking the sea drinking very quaffable Turkish wine and eating freshly caught fish, the food will never disappoint. Turks love to dance, and the clubs rival anything in London. In the summer the parties move onto the roof terraces. Locals tend to be warm, friendly and helpful to the point of bending over backwards. I came out here for a weekend earlier last year and now I live here. You can't get a better recommendation than that!
MCrumpton


Go to Greece. The Orthodox Easter isn't until the April 27 so you'll have no problem avoiding national holidays.
AJones


Florence holds a sumptuous medieval fireworks festival: the 'explosion of the cart' in piazza del Duomo on Easter Sunday. Almost all museums are open (except on Monday when they tend to close anyway), and there's some of the best open-air sightseeing in Europe, with the piazza della Signoria, Ponte Vecchio and piazzale Michelangelo to visit. Most bars and restaurants have terraces or put tables out (many have canopies in case of rain too!).
It's usually warm to very warm spring weather. You can fly direct to Florence from Gatwick with Meridiana or to Pisa (one hour train ride) from Bristol with Easyjet. Both flights are around two hours.
Julia


Go to Istanbul! You can have an exotic time in a country where things won't be closed because it's Easter. Alternatively Morocco (where it would be warmer, especially Marrakech).
JRundo



I am suddenly and unexpectedly facing retirement through redundancy and thought I might celebrate by spending a bit of my compensation and perhaps two months of my unexpected freedom on travel. I am 61, female, reasonably active and fit – but by myself and a bit anxious about solo travel. What shall I do?
V Davies


First, read 'A Bike Ride', by Anne Mustoe. This former headmistress in her late fifties decided to cycle solo around the world on retirement, despite being unfit and unable to even mend a puncture. You don't have to be planning anything as grand to be inspired by an account which helps to put into perspective any anxieties one may feel about travelling solo as a woman. Then, get the travel mags out and start planning that trip!
PRuddock


Whilst the obvious solution may be to go on a singles holiday, where everyone will be in the same situation and there should be plenty of company for you, I would not recommend this. The problem with singles holidays is that all you have in common with other participants is that you are single. My advice is to go for some type of themed or activity holiday. If you go on a holiday where the focus is on a topic or hobby, whether it's walking, painting, cycling, yoga or learning a language, then at least you won't have to think about how to fill your days, as you'll be doing something that is of interest to you. You will have this common bond with the other participants which will facilitate natural conversation rather than topics such as the length of time for which you have been single or why you broke up with your last partner. There may be some single people on this type of holiday but it will feel less like a cattle market as you have come on this holiday to pursue an interest rather than as a single with the agenda (perceived or real) of meeting a partner. Think of an interest or hobby that you would like to try or develop further. You can't lose, you'll spend time doing something you enjoy and you will be in the relaxed company of like-minded people.
KBryan


Why don't you try a company like Intrepid travel or GAP? They offer an amazing amount of choices all over the world, and the prices are reasonable - the cost reflects the trip you are going on. I have been to Italy, and my girlfriend is doing a three-month trip round Asia. You go with a group of no more than 12 and it takes a lot of the hassle out of travelling. I found that people who go on these trips are usually like-minded and the age range on my trip was from 22 to 50. We had a great time - our guide even came to visit us in Norway.
SLees


"What shall I do?" Go, back-pack Australia. I started aged 68. Can't give it up!
WDrake


Go to the Gambia: great weather, great food, great people. It's very reasonably priced there, only about 5-6 hours' flight and a real eye-opener. It's totally safe or at least as safe as anywhere, although you might feel a bit nervous to begin with. If you do feel nervous, you could get one of the local lads (get one who knows the security guards at your hotel) to show you around for just a couple of quid a day. It's a great place to relax with a book, go out sightseeing or let your hair down. You will certainly make friends there, both male and female, tourists and locals, and if you're looking for romance you might even find that too. Take a guide book with you, or you'll be stuck with just the hotel-organised trips. Hope you take the plunge, you will certainly go back if you do.
Jim


I've walked lots of Britain's long distance paths, and can highly recommend The West Highland Way and The 'Jurassic Coast' stretch of the southwest Coast path. Both have sustained interest and frequent, sociable places to stop. The West Highland Way can have a roving party feel to it as the same folk repair to the same hostelries each night (and yes, the pub in Crianlarich is slanted).
SBarker


Join Women Welcome Women World Wide [5W], which has been promoting international friendship among women for more than 20 years. As a member of 5W, you will be able to contact members in Finland, Japan, NZ etc. in advance for advice, and you can arrange to meet some for meals and outings - stays of a couple of nights at members' homes are also possible. A member for several years myself, I have been lucky enough to make many friends around the world through 5W and have had great times both as host and guest. It's a brilliant way to find out how real people live in the country you are visiting.
Gail


'Adventure' travel companies like Exodus and Explore offer fantastic trips in small groups of up to 20. About 50% of fellow passengers are solo travellers, and there are lots of empty nest couples (in my experience) - you can ask about the makeup of the group before you book. I’ve been on several of these trips and always find the people interesting, well-travelled and good company. You’ll get lots of tour information on their websites to help you decide if the tour is for you. For me, the best thing is how much you can pack in, without stress, because someone else does the hard work of working out which path to follow, which tram to get into town, when the museum closes etc.
FMcGrogan


You could try Japan. It's not somewhere many people think of travelling around (yet) but it's cheap (at the moment, the yen - GBP rate is as advantageous as I've known it), safe (I lived there for 15 years and never thought twice about either travelling, returning to my accommodation late at night, or eating out alone) and one of the most genuinely welcoming and friendly cultures in the world. As a foreign visitor, you can buy a one-, two- or three-week Japan railpass to travel on the fabulous national railway system which will save you even more money, and if you take two or three weeks, allow you to experience the huge range of climates, geography and even cultures which exist within this single nation. A three-week pass is less than £300 at the moment - you can even buy a first-class pass for only £100 more. Head to the north coast (Fukui, Toyama and Niigata) for wild coastlines, fish to die for and lots of snow for an extended winter (November - March at least). Go all the way up to Hokkaido for rolling plains, dairy farms, and some amazing examples of nature conservation (such as the tancho cranes on Kushiro Marsh). Visit Tokyo just to get a feel for how crazy a big city can become, but perhaps stay further south in Kamakura, one of the ancient capitals, which has a lovely local feel despite being only an hour from the centre of the capital. On your way south, head into the mountains above Nagoya and wander round the early morning market in Takayama (where little old ladies fall asleep over their wares by about 8am). If you like hiking or skiing, the whole central Gifu/Nagano area is a treasure-trove of mountain walks and ski resorts, depending on the time of year. Kobe is a relatively cosmopolitan city above the sea, which has been rebuilt since the 1995 earthquake. Kyoto is not to be missed and doesn't need me to advertise it. Nara is another ancient capital which is close to Kyoto and worth a short detour. Take the ferry from Akashi (outside Kobe) to Awaji-shima and then cross to Shikoku. You can leave this amazingly laid-back island by train over the Seto Bridge, one of the longest suspension bridges in the world, and then connect and head further south to Kyushu, which is famous for its hot springs and volcanoes.

You can find great accommodation for between £25-£40 a night, which should include dinner and breakfast, in traditional Japanese minshuku (like B&Bs), although you may want to splash out on a ryokan (a higher-class traditional hotel) at times. There are lots of English (well, almost) booking sites on the web - just google 'booking minshuku'. There's also a good youth hostel network and lots of western-style, cheap business hotels (small but clean) located around stations in almost every town. You will get a fabulous meal, served with good humour and attention to detail, almost anywhere you go, and once you've tried a Japanese bath you'll never want to take the British 'six inches of warm water' option again. Not everyone speaks English, but almost everyone will try, and as a rule, Japanese people will go quite literally out of their way to get you where you want to be if you are lost, even if it means they miss their own train/bus/plane (it has happened to me!) or end up being thoroughly late for work. If you decide to go, get some little cards (like business cards) made up with your name and address on them to take with you. People will give you their card all the time, and I would bet you that if you spend a month in Japan and hand out your contact details as you go, you'll be receiving Christmas cards from the people you meet for the rest of your life. Have fun!
Kirstie Sobue


Mooching about alone can be extremely rewarding though the fear is of being trapped or hemmed in by bores; one reason I've never been on a cruise. I would recommend touring Northern Italy. Certainly take a look at Venice and Florence but don't tarry too long as these are the big tourist traps, where one is surrounded by visitors from all over the world, most of them on the most fleeting of visits, ticking off the sights. The real joy lies in the abundance of smaller towns, each so very different. It is hard for a Brit to understand the enormous diversity and beauty of the northern part of Italy. For example, Piacenza is not a famous town and from the periphery seems ugly, but go into the centre and you'll discover a town of great beauty in which to spend a while exploring and relaxing. To change towns is to experience a change in architecture, food, wines, shops. These towns also have a smattering of international tourists, though definitely the more discerning kind. There are smaller towns still, such as Chiavari on the Ligurian coast (perhaps the least famous of the Italian Riviera towns, but it is a dream). The town has porticoed medieval and renaissance avenues, lined with orange trees dripping in fruit, an excellent selection of shops and a quite incredible selection of small restaurants, far better than Portofino down the road. It also has a weekly antique market and the best daily fruit and vegetable market I have seen anywhere in the world.

Close to Portofino and not on the main tourist route is the far more beautiful Camogli. 25 kilometres up into the mountains are towns like Varese Ligure, head of Europe's most 'sustainable' valley, which is entirely organic. Cross over the high pass and into Emilia Romgana and down into the Taro Valley, to find perhaps the highest quality of life in all Italy. Another stunning series of beautiful and fascinating towns, Borgotaro (very much a 'slow town'), Bedonia, Berceto and Bardi, birthplace of most of London's Italian millionaires! The port city of Genova is often ignored by tourists, yet boasts a huge array of public art, churches, and statuary. There's not time to get bored. Locals are friendly, more so than the large cities. Train travel is very cheap, compared to the UK, and clean and usually on time! Wherever one goes, people are polite and friendly and helpful. A lady alone can generally feel safe and there are no drunks. Italian youth may be noisy and exuberant but they don't get drunk. The places to avoid are obvious and any troubles, which are tiny in comparison to the UK's, are limited to those areas. There's a vast area between Genova, Venice and Florence; each town truly unique, and a variety of countryside, hills, mountains, plains, coast: a richness and diversity unparalleled on earth.
CDark



January 18:

We're going to the US in April and would like to spend a couple of days renting a classic American car - we're flexible about where but we don't have a huge amount of money. We want to drive and eat in diners
and stop in motels - we'll be starting in New York but can train or fly to another point to pick up a car. All advice gratefully received...
Steph

For the question about where you go, it's tough to beat driving up the Pacific Coast highway from Los Angeles to San Francisco. Stop in Big Sur on the way and glory in the scenery. Otherwise, if you want to stay on the Eastern edge, it's worth a trip down at least part of the Blue Ridge parkway. The actual parkway has a 30 mph speed limit (if I remember correctly), so it gives you time to take it easy and enjoy your classic car!

One thing I would definitely recommend is the book (and website) Roadfood by Jane and Michael Stern. They're a husband and wife team who specialise in writing about food and travel. They also file regular reports for the radio show 'The Splendid Table' broadcast by Los Angeles-based public radio station KCRW (which you can podcast from kcrw.com). They're constantly in search of wonderful holes-in-the-wall, diners, shacks or anywhere else that serves good American "classics" - from clam chowder to hot dogs to meatloaf to pecan pie, and everything in-between. The book is organised geographically, so wherever you end up driving, it's likely that they'll have covered the area and will offer some good choices.
Jessica, a hungry American ex-pat living in Bristol


Getting a truly 'classic' car may be prohibitively expensive, but consider getting something like a 2006 Mustang. It has retro looks but comes without the mechanical worries. Last year my friend and I rented a convertible Mustang from Hertz in Boston for 3 weeks and it only cost $799 (£403), but you really have book it early as demand is high. There is also a drop-charge if your start and endpoints are different so it's best to drop it where you picked it up.
J Comyn


Diners are easy to find when driving in the US, but the food won't always be good and you'll often come across the same chains again and again, especially if you're driving on the Interstate highways. If you're looking for something more varied and exciting, I really recommend using Roadfood to plan where you stop and eat. The restaurant search has lots of cheap diners with classic American regional food. Once you have an idea of where you'll be going you can also post on their forum and locals will give you more recommendations. This really made a different for us on our trip. Motels are also really easy to find unless you're in a very remote rural area. Pick up any coupon books you see in gas stations, tourist attractions and motel lobbies. They give good discounts on chain motel rooms and can be really useful. As for where to go, the Byways website has ideas of interesting routes.
EM


I would highly suggest looking into Flagstaff, Arizona. Flagstaff, while a small city, is the major hub of Northern Arizona. Not only does it reside on the old Route 66, perhaps the greatest of American roads in a classical sense, but Flagstaff is in the midst of some of the most stunning desert landscapes in the US. A couple of old school diners and dozens of motels are located there, the Grand Canyon is a short drive away, and the weather is usually perfect for a jaunt in a convertible. I would highly recommend visiting Wupatki National Monument, which is a series of American Indian ruins. Sedona, the jewel of Northern Arizona, is a short yet breathtaking drive south from Flagstaff. Skip Interstate 17 and take the scenic route, replete with switchbacks, into Oak Creek Canyon.
J Godfrey


If it were me, I'd hop a flight to the West - that's where the glorious heartland is, to my mind. As well as some of the most awe-inspiring scenery I've ever seen. If time is very limited, (though I hate to say it...) fly into Vegas and drive down to the Grand Canyon, north rim, via Bryce Canyon or Zion National Park. Not only will you get a taste of life on the road here, I guarantee you'll be blown away by the landscape. You can find motels or lodges on National Park land for little money ($50 (£25) a night will get you a decent place) and all the crappy diner food you could ever want.
D Byrne


If you only have a few days and are starting in New York City, I might suggest following US 1, a highway which goes from Maine to Florida Where available, you can choose to take US 1A (also known as Alternate US 1 - it's not a contiguous highway) for a more scenic coastal route. From New York, you can head north into New England (cool days, chilly nights in April). Or, for warm weather, head south from New York along the Mid-Atlantic coast into the South and all the way to Key West, if time permits.

Some of the best American regional cuisine is located along the East Coast. Most of the seasonal diners, crab shacks and lobster pounds will be open by April, but not yet crowded. My personal favorites include: the Maine Diner in Wells, Maine; Essex Seafood in Essex, Massachusetts; Durgin Park in Boston, Massachusetts; Mrs. Wilke's Dining Room in Savannah, Georgia; the Dixie Crossroads in Titusville, Florida; and Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House in Miami Beach, Florida. There are simply too many to list; you need to get the Roadfood book or see their website. Happy travels and happy eating.
M Oneby


While perhaps not romantic in the Route 66 way (that particularly iconic road doesn't really exist anymore, in any case), driving through the Hudson Valley and into the Catskills will offer you more than enough opportunity to stay in roadside motels and eat diner food. Plus, the spring scenery in that region is just astounding. Drive up the east side of the Hudson along Route 9 for the best views. There is Colonial American history aplenty on the east side of the river (Rhinebeck is particularly charming), but for the aesthetic you seek cross the Hudson at Beacon on I-84 and head north toward the Catskills. The mountains are lovely, but what really makes this area are the semi-forgotten resort towns that used to draws thousands of city folk every weekend (before they discovered the Hamptons). Here you'll find motels and diners until the cows come home, as well as some incredible restaurants and antique shops.

For us, the cream of the Catskills is a little place on the north side called Roxbury. This town is so small it barely registers on most maps, but it's well worth finding for the Roxbury Motel (www.theroxburymotel.com). This used to be the rough-and-tumble sort of roadside motor court you're looking for, until two former theater designers bought it and tricked it out. The brand-new theme rooms are particularly cool (try the Shagadelic). Oh, and to complete the triumvirate of things to do in big ol' American cars, you should take in a drive-in movie at the Hi-Way Drive-In in Coxsackie, right near the Hudson to the northeast of Catskill Park. Good luck!
Jake


My fiance and I are trying to book our honeymoon for the last two weeks of July. We're keen to go somewhere further afield than our usual holidays in France and Italy, and have been looking at India and China. But we've been warned off travelling to these destinations in July due to the hot and wet weather conditions. Should we avoid these countries at this time? Where else can we go where we can have an adventurous, exotic, culture-filled honeymoon? We're looking to spend about £2,000, including flights. Hope you can help!
A Lumley

How about the island of Corsica? Utterly charming, with amazing beaches - particularly throughout the south - where the sea is Caribbean blue and there's some serious hiking throughout the centre of the island (as well as some superb canyoning!). It's full of history and culturally very different from the mainland. Of the towns, Calvi, Bonifacio and Ajaccio are all lovely places to visit, and then driving into the interior is like another country again - Corte and the Castelnaccia regions are great for daily walks and hearty food. The Corsicans are kind and helpful, especially if you're not French! The only downside is that, particularly if you're there in July and August, you won't be alone - the French know how wonderful it is, and flock there - and it gets pricy. Outside of French school holidays, it's a completely different story. And it ticks your 'eco-friendly' box - you can easily get there by train and boat, and avoid that ugly carbon footprint.
J Wood


I would suggest you also consider Northern Chile and Bolivia (San Pedro de Atacama + Salar de Uyuni), coupled with Easter Island. Both places offer amazing landscapes, adventure and relaxation.
F Bortolini


I went on Honeymoon this past summer to Tanzania for a safari then stayed on Zanzibar. We choose the southern parks as they are supposed to be a lot quieter. You are apparently guaranteed to see most of the main animals without them running away in the north, but have to share the privilege with plenty of other people. We stayed first at the Sands River Resort in the Selous and in our four days of safari only saw another group once. The resort is amazing as well. They look after you really well and the rooms are first class - huge with just a mosquito net over the bed and no front to them so you feel as if you are sleeping under the stars. We then went to Mwagusi camp in Ruaha which again was lovely although slightly busier. They do a great evening meal in the bush round an open fire which can be taken privately if required and is well worth it.

A trip to Ecuador/Galapagos would also be fantastic, there are lots of great walks and beaches in Ecuador and nothing compares to the Galapagos - it really is like walking into a nature documentary. As they have no natural predators, the animals have no fear of humans and carry on as normal as you walk around them. The diving is fantastic and you get very used to life on a cruise ship. If going for this trip I would also recommend Isla de Margarita in Venezuela which is a beautiful Caribbean Island next to Trinidad that hasn't been too commercialised with great food and fantastic weather.
S Booth


We have recently returned from our honeymoon to Belize. We chose Belize as it ticked lots of boxes - it was somewhere 'special' and provided a mixture of adventure and relaxation that we both wanted, as well as opportunities to learn about the local culture and stay somewhere 'non-touristy'. While we only went for 11 days, there are plenty of places worth exploring nearby, both in Belize and Guatemala. We travelled independently, staying at Chaa Creek Lodge, where we visited the temples at Tikal (Guatemala), and canoed from the lodge downstream to the local town, bird and iguana spotting all the way down. We then travelled across to Ambergris Caye, the small island off the coast of Belize. Here we stayed at Mata Chica, and relaxed in the boutique-style hotel, complete with palm-roofed beachside cabanas. Belize's coral reef is a short canoe trip off the beach, where you can snorkel among all the fish. It was only 11 days, but it felt longer and was perfect.
E and M Jones


Consider a trip including a beach stay in Thailand. Combine with a trip to Northern Thailand, crossing the border to Laosat Chiang Rai. Then travel by slow boat down the Mekongto Luang Prabang with an overnight (or more) at an eco lodge en-route. Further travel through to the capital offers treks, elephant rides, kayaking and other water activities. Reasonable cost too. I have recently returned from Luang Prabang – delightful place with good, reasonable accommodation.
Jenny Rivers


For June/July time I would definitely recommend Ladakh in Northern India for both couples. Fly to Delhi and then over the Himalayas to Leh. The landscape is awe-inspiring and the culture, although distinct, has much in common with Tibet. We did several 3-5 day treks where you can walk through some of the most scenic landscape on Earth and stop in small villages for lodging and food for a very small amount reducing the need to carry much. Either plan it yourself or a travel agent in Leh should be able to help. It is possible to book with company that guarantee the majority of the lodging money goes to the families you stay with. Additionally there are plenty of day trips and overnight trips to temples and monasteries, and also to Pangong Tso, a 100km azure lake. It's main selling point for a honeymoon is that it is very distinct and different but essentially rural and relaxed so there is plenty of time for sitting and reading while admiring the the view of the Himalaya.
MK


We are getting married in June in southern Germany (Füssen/Bavaria). We'd like to go on a 3-4 week honeymoon that combines some adventure activity like hiking and rafting, interesting flora/fauna and landscapes, and a week or two of beach-style relaxation. We have thought about long-haul destinations like Ecuador paired with a visit to the Galapagos Islands/Costa Rica, or New Zealand, or a safari in Africa combined with a stay on Zanzibar or Mafia Island. But we're also open to closer-to-home destinations, possibly taking Füssen as our starting point. We’re interested in eco-friendly travel and learning about local cultures. We just can’t seem to make our mind up - can anyone recommend some amazing trips?

F Mayer

We're off on honeymoon in August. You mentioned looking for a mix of activity and chilling on a beach - we were after the same, and have decided to go for a mix of western Canada and Hawaii. Specifically, we're flying into Calgary and will visit the likes of Banff, Jasper, Whistler and Vancouver Island before flying over to Hawaii for some beach time. We're very much looking forward to it!Sam

If it's a honeymoon you want, with all the comfort and glamour that is needed at such a time, along with the activities and facilities to keep you occupied, I cannot recommend the Caribbean city of Cartagena, on the north coast of Colombia, enough. I went for two weeks with my girlfriend and we never wanted to leave. Within the fortified old city are charming cobbled streets lined with immaculate Spanish colonial architecture, statues of fallen heroes and smiling people talking in the squares. Overhead will be baroque church steeples and domes, punctuated with colour spilling out from window flower boxes. There are superb restaurants offering fine seafood and other local
specialities, a thriving, but not intimidating, nightlife and the full spectrum of accomodation, all enclosed within the walls. And the sun will be shining, but not so that you have to stay indoors, and advantage of the gentle Caribbean breeze.

Outside the old city are the white sands, green waters and palm trees the area is worshipped for. Take a boat trip to the offshore islands and see the island you'll both buy when you win the lotto! It is remarkably safe, and don't assume you will be queuing the entire time either - this is no Disneyland - you can have sweet little restaurant all to yourselves, or a park with a fountain, or a stroll atop the city wall, so romance is hard to avoid. However, if you feel like a film and a pizza, just grab a cab over to the new city and send an email home while you're at it. Definitely a winner - the most romantic place in the world.
H White


January 11:

I can't climb any steps (however small), walk far or walk on ground that is at all uneven. So, I use a wheelchair outdoors and (for my own safety) in all public spaces. My husband and I would like to visit the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra and Jaipur), but have concerns about:

- Toilet facilities: we'll be fine in the kind of hotels we reckon on using, but suspect that toilet provision elsewhere will be both minimal and non-western (i.e. squat pan type, which I can't manage)
- Access to temples, forts, palaces etc. I'm quite used to seeing only the ground floor of such places in Europe, and then waiting while my husband looks round the upstairs bits, but wonder whether I would be too vulnerable doing that in India. I'd also like to know whether accessibility would be so limited as to make the whole trip too frustrating

Several tour operators, and our very good local travel agent, have advised against such a trip, but I don't want to give up on the idea without exploring all the possibilities. Since I can't get on a coach, we plan to hire a car and driver for the duration, for instance. Does anybody have any tips, please?
SC

We have travelled extensively in India and found the route that you described the most 'tourist friendly' and westernised in the country (except Goa). With regards to toilets, I took a shewee - a 'portable urinating device' which sounds comical but is actually very useful. Takes a bit of practice but could be the answer to all your problems. All good hotels and most western-style restaurants will have western toilets.

Hiring a car and a driver is a fabulous idea - your driver will speak the local language and will be very sensitive to your needs. He may well act as a guide for you in towns as well - and he will be able to seek out western toilets very quickly. Mobility will be a problem. However, there are always people willing to help out. I have seen Indian people carry wheelchair users upstairs (for a fee of course!) so in a way, access to forts etc. may be easier than in the UK!

If you prefer to stay on the lower floors on your own, you may be hassled a bit more than usual to buy things - but then anyone would. I cannot imagine you would be more vulnerable than anyone else. If you stay with your driver he can ward off any unwanted attention!

The most important thing is that Indians are well used to people with reduced mobility, are in the main very kind and patient towards people with such issues, and will always lend a hand.
CP

Are you really sure you want to stick to the Golden Triangle? Whilst I agree that the sights are incredible, it's just so incredibly hectic and intimidating, that I can see so many problems arising. A much better alternative would be the south; Kerala, Goa, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka. Not as many awe-inspiring sights, but far more naturally beautiful and - importantly- a lot less crazy!

However, if you've your heart set on the north, I'd advise you to stay in South Delhi whilst in the capital, as it's a lot less urban, and has increasingly more attractions. For commuting into the Red Fort etc. it's best to get there as early as possible, and absolutely avoid being anywhere near the more popular attractions in the afternoon. There's not much tarmac in the area in front of the fort, but once you're inside it's well paved, with few changes in elevation around the grounds.

In Agra, you should try get tickets for the moonlit Taj tour, far less people and a much more impressive experience. I would absolutely avoid Rajastan. The ground is almost exclusively desert track, and the touts and narrow alleys will be impossible to avoid.

I really hope you're able to have a fantastic trip. The Golden Triangle can be intimidating and, frankly, nuts; so remember to take plenty of lazy afternoons by the pool, or in a nice air conditioned lobby!
JL


I have just returned from an amazing trip to India and whilst I would highly recommend it to anyone with a sense of adventure, it probably isn’t a place suitable for people with mobility problems. Firstly the toilets, even at the major tourist attractions, don’t always come up to western standards (although the Taj Mahal does offer cubicles for both western-style toilets and Indian style holes in the ground). Also, many attractions, particularly forts and some temples, are often only accessible after a wander up some fairly steep slopes and steps.

However, I would point out, that I found the people to be very friendly and I very much doubt you would feel vulnerable if you do still want to go.
JS



January 4:


My son was born in Brighton - we have not lived there for over 18 years. I visit regularly but do not stray far from my usual much-loved haunts. We are having a long weekend there to mark his 21st birthday. Can anyone suggest the most interesting and iconic places in Brighton that we could visit to get the true flavour of contemporary Brighton?
JB

I’ve just returned from Brighton (where I used to live). Try Bill's Produce Store for a spot of lunch. It’s ‘the in place’ at the moment but it still feels very genuine. Good prices, friendly service. The North Laines area is also worth a visit particularly for last-minute funky presents. The new library building should also be seen (Carluccio’s café and shop is just around the corner too). Enjoy your stay!
Lorenza

You will no doubt have visited the Pavilion before, but its glorious decadence might well merit a return visit. At the moment, there's an interesting display of costumes from La Cenerentola in the elaborately orientalist Music Room. You'll have worked up an appetite for lunch after all the gold and dragons, so head uphill to Bill's Produce Store on North Road, where you can enjoy colourful platefuls of homemade pizza, quiche and salad in a huge room lined with delicious-looking preserves, pickles and other goodies. You'll be near North Laine now, so go for a post-lunch potter amongst the shops selling anything from vegetarian shoes to kooky sex toys. If you have any space left after Bill's, a visit to the Bar du Chocolat on Middle Street is a must. Run by the iconic Brighton confectioners Choccywoccydoodah (Duke Street), the hot chocolate is top rate. For one last gastronomic treat, make sure you book a table at Terre a Terre, one of the top vegetarian restaurants in the country, and one of the few to serve up 'haute cuisine' vegetarian food. After all that indulgence, Sunday morning can be a bracing walk along the seafront towards Hove, past the dejected looking West Pier and towards the ice-cream coloured beach huts.
RFentem

Help! My parents (very able-bodied 70+-year-olds) have been holidaying in Turkey and the Greek Islands for many years - always in a self-catering villa in a small resort or village (Gumusluk for the last few years). They would like to try a different Mediterranean country/island, but when they look at brochures they can't find any self-catering villas that don't already include car hire. As my parents do not drive, this narrows down the choice. Are there any good package companies with self-catering villas in quiet/small resorts that don't require car hire?
RF

Sunvil offer a great range of villas and self-catering apartments, many of which do not have car hire included. They also have a really helpful phone booking service.
JBlake


I would recommend that you check out Pure Crete, a specialised company that organises holidays in the Greek Island of Crete - the properties are mostly located outside of Chania. I would recommend looking for properties around Kavilas - it is very close to the beach and the village itself has a baker, a post office and an absolutely gorgeous Greek restaurant where they do lovely anchovies! The offers don't include car hire and travelling off-peak is a lot quieter and cheaper. Hope this helps!
AAwal


I'm looking for gay or gay-friendly accommodation in Havana. I know that there are some casas particulares where the owner is gay or gay-friendly, but I don't know the address or contact email. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Roberto

The guy to ask about gay-friendly accommodation in Cuba is Yunior. His parents have a Casa Particular in Vinales and Yunior probably knows the deal in Havana. Also, you could try the Been there user's recommendation here.
Jamison

I was in Cuba couple of years ago and my experience was that the Cubans have a very liberal attitude to sexuality. I stayed at the Hostal Valencia which is cheap and great, and very central. It’s a great place to stay and the staff are very friendly and helpful. Hope you have as good a time as I did,
Criszimac


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