Aix-en-Provence is a small and charming city and the perfect location for a family weekend., says VINGT Paris

“Sous Les Tilleuls” offers a beautifully located base. The large suite available to rent on the 1st floor has a magnificent view on the colourful houses opposite and a gorgeous garden, featuring the famous lime trees of the name. Owner Marie-Christine Ducros prepares a perfectly laid breakfast table with plentiful patisserie and pretty local tableware as well as supplying tips of what to do in the city. She is a proud hostess (chambres d'hôtes are the rough equivalent of a British B&B - with a French flair of course) - her home and garden are comfortable and scrupulously clean. The 1st floor apartment could sleep 2 couples or a medium sized family. A relaxing salon-cum-bedroom space doubles as a playroom or TV room for evenings leaving the tranquil master bedroom overlooking a Provençal garden. The rooms are connected by a huge bathroom with a great jacuzzi bubble bath, tons of space and plentiful towel action.

The only thing I could remember about Aix was the amazing pain aux raisins I had eaten on a 2 hour stop-over years before and I was determined to retrace my steps and find that boulangerie again. After a few hours of circling, anxiety building, I finally found C. Poulain, Boulangerie, Patisserie, Confiserie at 42 rue Espariat. Thankfully historic bakeries generally don’t get transformed into Starbucks at the drop of a hat here. They confirmed, their pain aux raisin hybrid, a “pain aux raisins feuilletté” was what I was looking for…..just the right amount of the custardy stuff, packed with raisins and a light and flaky pastry. The un-healthiest but best breakfast snack in France.

Across from the bakery is a wonderful old toy shop Le Nain Rouge at 47 rue Espariat with a great selection of wooden toys – look for a huge Pinocchio outside on the pavement. Everything in Aix is close and walkable which makes it so relaxing - search for the Dolphin fountain and historic Mazarin quartier to explore the old Mansions from the aristocratic age.




Take lunch at local no-frills joint, Café Cezanne, good specials and a “frito mixte” squid and other seafood served with strong aïoli is delicious. Service is super fast, polite and efficient. You’ll find it at the bottom of the Cours Mirabeau which is the main drag for people watching and the place to be seen (and has been for centuries).

The centre of town boasts a typical Provencal market where you can pick up locally produced honey, garlic, herbs and lavender as well as cheap clothes and bags for those with a penchant for a bargain. To round off the children’s outfit with the grooviest shoes look for YAKA kids shoe shop at 15 rue Papassaudi 04 42 26 46 73 - delightful staff and a space age style interior make it a worthwhile stop. Child playing up? Just attach them to the baby seat embedded in the wall! Interesting styles in natural fabrics and a bit more inventive than yer average Clarks T-Bar Sandal. Ages 1-10 years.

Back at Sous les Tilleuls a fridge, a corkscrew, TV and comfortable sitting room are at your disposal so staying in is not that bad if you have young kids. Instead of a fancy restaurant, pick up some French style take-away at Charcutier Traiteur Verwert, 17 rue Maréchal Foch; a succulent slice of quiche, a portion of sun dried tomatoes, small bell peppers stuffed with tuna and spices, a mixture of cold cuts, local olives, tapendade and good bread from a bakery doing evening service. About 20 euros all in.