A guide by MacBeat
The best record shop in Spain. Yards and yards of rare and wonderful jazz, rock, funk, soul, and soundtracks on vinyl. And a cat called Marcel.
Riera Baixa 14, deep in the heart of El Raval; tel: 93 442 37 03;
www.wah-wahsupersonic.com
This is a real find - a spectacularly good restaurant off the beaten track. We were lucky enough to be taken here by friends from Barcelona or we would never have ventured far enough into the Barri Gotic.
Tucked down one of the many winding, cobbled roads that makes up the old part of Barcelona, this is not the cheapest restaurant in Barcelona (not expensive by London standards though) but it's the best one we found. It's got a real character with a lovely mezzanine level, friendly staff and romantic decor. The food is so good my step dad was moved to ask to shake the chef's hand - whereupon he and my mum were treated to an impromptu cookery class! Now that's a good night out...
Carrer del Cometa
A lively, exciting part of town, where the trendy Catalans hang out and without the Brits abroad found chugging back cans of San Miguel as you will find on the Ramblas.
El Born has amazing bars and restaurants. Calle Banys Vells houses a great Cuban called Vieja Havana, and a cosy, romantic wine bar called Va da Vie. During the daytime El Born is home to great boutique clothes and shoe shops, although be warned, they close on Mondays.
Nearest metro station: Jaume II; main roads: Calle Argenteria, Calle Banys Vells and Passeig del Born
These are my favourite Barcelona restaurants (in no particular order) if I want to celebrate. None of them are cheap, but in comparison with for instance London it’s laughable!
1. Abac: Rec 79-89 (opposite La Estació de Francia; near Barceloneta and El Born). One Michelin star. (www.epicurious.com/restaurants/erg/barcelona/highend)
2. Drolma: (in Hotel Majestic, Passeig de Gràcia 68; corner of Valencia). One Michelin star (www.frommers.com/destinations/barcelona/D55400.html)
3. Gaig: Aragon 214 www.epicurious.com/restaurants/erg/barcelona/highend)
4. Hofmann: Argenteria 74-78 (between Vía Laietana and Princesa; near El Born) One Michelin star (www.hofmann-bcn.com/
5. Neichel: Beltran i Rózpide 8 (in the most elegant part of Barcelona, near Avenida Pedralbes) 2 Michelin stars (www.dininginfrance.com/Neichel_Bown_review.htm)
6. El Racó dén Freixa: Sant Elies, 22/ C. Balmes. www.epicurious.com/restaurants/erg/barcelona/highend
7. Els Pescadors: Placa Prim 1 (in Poble Nou, near Port Olimpic) (www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/Article.aspx?TabID=2&MenuID=7&ArticleID=162)
8. Alkimia: Indústria 79 (between Sicilia and Sardenya in Gracia) (www.frommers.com/destinations/barcelona/D55401.html)
9. Jean Luc Figueras: Santa Teresa 10 (www.toptable.co.uk/details.cfm/qs/rid%7C2433/spos%7C5)
10. Caelis/ Hotel Palace: Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 668 / Roger de Llúria
(www.toptable.co.uk/details.cfm?rid=2362)
I could easily make another Top 20 list, so enormous is the number of restaurants on offer in the city!
If you venture outside Barcelona, the three obvious choices (now that El Bulli is no more) are: Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar (three Michelin stars), El Raco de Can Fabes in San Celoni (three Michelin stars), and El Celler de Can Roca in Girona (two Michelin stars).
Alongside la Sagrada Familia, this park is probably Gaudí's most famous creation. Apparently his intention was to recreate English-style public gardens, but if so, he failed spectacularly. Spectacularly, in that the Park Güell is a fantastical mix of green spaces, mosaic benches, multi-coloured walkways and colonnades. Topping it all off, it affords one of best views of the city sprawling below.
C/Olot; Tel (Casa Museu Gaudi): 93 219 38 11; Nearest metro: Lesseps
This cable car - the Transbordador Aeri - takes you from Montjuic Park to the beach at Barceloneta. It travels over the harbour, suspended across two 400m-high towers. Not advisable if you are in any way scared of heights, but the views across the city are amazing, particularly around sunset.
Leaves from Montjuic, Barcelona's World Trade Centre and the Torre de San Sebastián. Usually open 10.30am-5.30pm and later in summer. Single journey €7.50 or €9 return.
A little paradise of a street. Forget Poble Espanyol, this is an authentic tour around the best in Spanish food and drink as well as an assortment of museums. Don’t miss the anchovies or the cava at El Xampanyet, indulge in the Textile Museum’s ice creams, listen to the dulcet tones of an oboe and cello while sampling top-quality whiskey at Espai Barroc and sample the avant garde wines at the Va de Vi.
Banys Vells, No 16; nearest metro: Jaume I
Groundbreaking architectural delight, it is located in a secluded part of Montjuic ideal for contemplating the colourful sculptures on the rooftop terrace with the Med in the background. The museum is basically a deconstruction of Miro’s creative DNA with temporary exhibitions by other artists.
Marques de Comillas, nearest metro: Paral.lel
This gallery is devoted to the work of the 82-year-old Catalan painter Antoni Tàpies. A rich experience not to be missed.
Aragó 255, 08007 Barcelona; tel: 34 934 870 315; nearest metro: Passeig de Gràcia;
www.fundaciotapies.org/site/article.php3?id_article=2931
Some bars resemble shrines on which the faithful worship the gods of good drink, good food and good companionship. This is one of these. Just a hop from Picasso Museum (Barri Gotic), it melts ageing local customers, trendy young crowds and the odd tourist into revering its wonderful cava (really affordable) and great tapas (don´t miss the anchovies).
C/Montcada 22, Barcelona, phone(00 34 93) 319 7003
This elaborately decorated, art nouveau (modernista in Catalan) concert hall is an absolute must see. It's exciting enough looking at it outside, but the whole of the inside is exhilarating with a riot of sparkling stained glass and swirling forms. There’s a huge expression of colour and light, especially in the auditorium itself with its stunning, golden-brown, stained-glass ceiling - a highlight in every sense. Guided tours only, some in English, last just under an hour, and it's best to book in advance. Don't be put off - this is really one to remember.
Calle Sant Francesc de Paula, 2; tel: 902 442 882; nearest metro: Urquinaona
While everyone flocks to Gaudi’s still-in-progress spires, it’s very much worth remembering that there’s a medieval cathedral still standing proud in Barcelona’s old town. There’s perhaps a touch of irony too, in the fact that the finishing touch was not applied to this building, in the early 20th century, until nearly 700 years after its inception. It is beautiful, as are its surroundings, and revealing of how the centre of this city has shifted according to fashion. Don’t pass it by.
Placa de la Seu
When you go to Sagrada Familia, don’t jump back on the Metro but persevere up Avinguda de Gaudi. You’ll eventually come across this still part-working hospital that you are free to stroll around and ogle. Unesco protected, this lesser known of the Modernista works is a visionary place created by Domenech i Nontaner for Barcelona’s medial needs at the turn of the 20th-century. It would have been worth getting ill just to have been able to stay there.
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