A guide by asbb
Student-type bar near the premier art college in Ireland. Good drinks promotions and music nights with djs in the bar and in the basement. Small, atmospheric, cheap and friendly.
Thomas Street
Bar, where students with less style than they think go to dance themselves silly upstairs to a, frankly, very good indie disco, or just drink and talk downstairs in the basement or in one of the two ground floor bars.
It's a great spot but there are too many wannabe hipsters running around. Still a laugh though.
Near Pearse Street Garda station.
One of Dublin's greatest surprises, tucked away behind Dublin castle. An amazing collection of ancient manuscripts, including some of the earliest texts of the Bible as well as Islamic, Chinese, Japanese and Indian art. A deserving past winner of the European Museum of the Year Award, even the most difficult to please can while away hours on its explorations of world religions. The Middle-Eastern influenced canteen is one of Dublin's best-kept secrets for a good-value lunch.
Tel: (+353 1) 407 0750; www.cbl.ie/
Probably Dublin's finest museum in this writer’s humble opinion. It’s housed in the magnificent Royal Hospital in Kilmainham and boasts regular touring exhibitions, from Andy Warhol and Anthony Gormley to Yoko Ono and Joseph Beuys and all points in between.
The galleries are airy and spacious, sensitive to installation requirements and free of any overt pretentiousness. In other words, you don't have to have a deep understanding of art to enjoy the place. There is a good (if pricey) coffee shop on site.
The grounds surrounding the gallery are suitable for leisurely walking; the main avenue leads you directly to Kilmainham Gaol (about 10 minutes walk). War Memorial Gardens are nearby and the National Museum is one Luas hop away from nearby Heuston Station. Essentially, it forms the heart of the emerging museum district, and the Guinness brewery is close to hand also.
West of the city centre, 10 minutes walk from Heuston Station (Luas and Intercity services). Tour buses from the city centre include a visit on their routes, and regular bus services from city centre (nos. 68, 69, 78A, 79); www.modernart.ie/
In a city of Guinness and generic lagers, Mssrs brews its own beer on site. It has nice views of the water, a good relaxing atmosphere. The food is also good, but quite expensive.
Just off the O'Connell Street Bridge
This bar (pronounced "shinay") is great for late night drinking. A good selection of beer and great music make for an enjoyable atmosphere. Probably not the best place for a Guinness, however.
Ormond Quay, Dublin 1; on the north of the quays, not too far from O'Connell Street heading west
Dublin's best live music venue, in a city which is full of great music, it has been around for years and has live music every night of the week. Also has a great late bar where you never know who you will spot.
25 Wexford Street, Dublin 2; Telephone 4780766; www.whelanslive.com
Just for the company and architecture of the main ground floor bar itself. A regular locals haunt, which accommodates visitors as well. There’s also a well-known venue for various folk and comedy clubs.
Corner of St Andrew Street and Exchequer Street.
(Aim for Brown & Thomas on Grafton Street, 200yards away or just ask a local)
Gerry's offers a range of hearty meals at very affordable prices. Its popularity stretches from banking types to local construction workers to students. A range of hot meal options is offered at lunch (during which time Gerry’s is very popular) as well as soups and an all day breakfast. Service is prompt. Expect to find a good bit of change from your €10 note.
For those who favour a full stomach over watching their cholesterol count!
Just off Harcourt Street, beside the Montague Casino
It's cheap, fresh and really tasty. Grab a sandwich and head for St Stephen's Green.
All over Dublin
Moore Street has become the centre of the new multicultural Ireland. There are lots of traditional old stalls (probably the cheapest place to buy meat and vegetables in Dublin), but there is also an amazing collection of shops and restaurants owned and run by the Chinese, Russian, and African communities.
Moore Street is just off Henry Street, leading to Parnell Street
The real 'left bank' of Dublin. It is everything that Temple Bar aspires to be, mixing art and music with Dublin's finest pubs on one stretch of street. Whelan’s for the best live music and gigs. Carnival for alternative entertainment. Solas for relaxed chat and music. Cassidy’s where Bill Clinton had a pint of Murphys. Ryan’s for some of the best pints in Dublin. The Bleeding Horse, one of the oldest pubs in Dublin. Flannery’s where the country people create a piece of the west in the city. Plus numerous eateries with cuisine from around the world, furniture, fashion and art dealers. What more could you want from a weekend in Dublin?
At the tram station on Stephen's Green take a right away from the Green and you are there.
Their gluttonous "roasts in a roll" are something you'd get in Valhalla - great haunches of meat carved into enormous home-baked rolls with delicious spreads. They make excellent soups, salads and pizzas, but it's with their chocolate brownies that Gruel truly excels: big heavy slabs, crisp on top, gooey in the middle, baked several times a day with quality ingredients.
The atmosphere's good, the staff are enthusiastic and there's a new spacious room downstairs, perfect for mislaying the rest of your afternoon in. This is the best lunch in Dublin.
68A Dame Street, Dublin 2; tel: +353 (0) 1 670 7119
A modern creperie - boasting two branches either side of Grafton St - that serves tasty French treats in a variety of sweet and savoury flavours as well as toasted sandwiches. The main reason that I visit is for the coffee, which I believe to be the best in Dublin.
Dawson St, South William St
The Amnesty International café, right in the heart of Temple Bar, is an oasis of calm (not to mention intellect and compassion) in an area dominated by overpriced restaurants and “pubs” stuffed with stag nights and rugby fans. Good strong and cheap coffee, tasty food, great reading material and much more besides, this place sticks out like a sane thumb.
Address: 48 Fleet Street, Dublin 2.
Telephone: (353-1)6776361
Website: www.amnesty.ie
Email: info@amnesty.ie
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday, 10:00-18:00.
I know, I know, it's a bit hypocritical after telling you to avoid the place in a previous tip, but I actually quite enjoy it there.
It's like going out in a market town in England on a Friday; raucous; loud; packed with fools and too much drink. But it also has some of Dublin's best pubs, live music, galleries and restaurants.
It's rare that the sense of violence, which always seems a wrong look away in London, is felt here.
I wouldn't recommend Temple Bar at night for someone in search of a quiet drink, or a civilized time. The puddles of vomit and p!ss ensure that, but it is great fun if you're in town for a laugh with a group of friends.
the centre of town
