A guide by asbb
Run by the Norbulingka Institute, who provide assistance for newly arrived Tibetan refugees, the Chonor House is on the edge of town. You take your life in your hands scrabbling down the slippery path to the front door, but it’s well worth it. Each room has been decorated by a Tibetan artist, depicting themes of Tibetan life. The hotel is particularly good if you’re travelling alone, as people tend to congregate in the large, cosy TV lounge. It's safe, well maintained, clean and secure, and does the best food in town.
Edge of town. From the centre, head towards the Tsuglagkhang Complex, then take the left hand fork. tel: 21006
Great little chai shop in the middle of McLeod, best tea in the whole of India, and a smattering of books to trade. They had some old copies of Private Eye as well. Avoid the meat though, as with most of India.
Orange shop front in the middle of town
Great, saved my life when I was there, kept me full of good veggie food and disastrously tasty banana and chocolate pancakes. Very friendly and decent accommodation too. Great sunsets.
On a little path down to Dip Tse Chok Ling Monastery.
A monastery where you can avoid the usual hustle and hippies of McLeod, cheap clean accommodation, monks chanting- it's a working monastery. Really friendly and quiet- until the morning Puja kicks off at 6AM. I stayed for 6 months, so it must be good.
388 steps down from McLeod, past OM hotel. You can get a taxi from the bus stand, if you're lazy.
When you are in a remote village or such travelling as a group, it is a lot better for you all to order the same meal or dish. By doing this, the rural community you are staying with only has to light one fire in order to produce the meal...saving local firewood, reducing CO2, protecting biodiversity, helping control soil erosion, reducing flash flooding, maintaining soil fertility...and you still get your lovely grub!
Anywhere you are staying with a rural community who produce food using firewood...
Small cafe near the main temple. Large selection of teas- I nearly cried when I found they had Earl Grey. They serve freshly baked muffins and do the very best coffee in town.
Near the Main temple
Good pasta, nice omelettes and great brownies. Lousy service.
Beautiful views down over the valley and of the mountains above from the sun deck more than make up for it.
Delicious wood fired pizza, and naughtily, considering it's within the main temple, it makes great rum chocolate cake.
A nice place to grab a meal after the long walk around the Dalai Lama's residence.
Main temple
Best food I had in the whole of India - not a huge claim considering I was on the strictest of budgets and don't particularly enjoy Indian food.
However, this was really good, served delicious sushi and great spicy dishes. Their home-made lemonade is also good and the atmosphere itself was brilliant, with jazz and blues, and open fire and sitting on logs. Serves meat.
It doesn't have a name that I know of, and is quite off the beaten track, down a flight of stairs, under an apartment block. Go past the internet shop Planet Z, past the nunnery and round the bend in the road as if you were walking down to Dharamasala from McLeod, and it's on your left, down the stair. Ask, someone will guide you.
You have the opportunity to meet the Big DL when in Dharamasala if he is in residence. You have to apply a good bit in advance, in person to the Tibetan regional government's offices, you'll need your passport.
We did it six months in advance and kept bugging them by email. Bring your passport with you and one camera a group. There are also public meet and greetings, although these are rare. Just turn up and have your passport with you.
As well as this if you go in February or March- check when it's on as it moves - you can attend his month-long teachings in the main temple. If you are serious about your Tibetan Buddhism there are many opportunities to gain one-on-one teaching with monks and masters. Also the university runs introductory courses in Buddhist philosophy, Tibetan language, history and so on.
Main Temple
The restaurant's fine and the accommodation is clean and comfortable but the best bit is the bar.
The cocktails are nice enough and the beer is the same as anywhere. Good fun.
A bar and restaurant, food's fair and the beer's the beer. Sells horrible apple wine. Claims Pierce Brosnan eats there. Has a roof top deck as well.
By the bus stand
