A guide by nopassportcontrol
Avoid the modern day intercity for a romantic night ride on train 504.
It departs Athens central station at 22.50 arriving at Thessaloniki at 5.30 just in time for morning coffee and fresh bougatsa (cream pie).
Early booking can secure one, two, three or four bed compartments but the real thing are the six bed compartments in older cars.
True old fashioned experience on one of Europe's oldest trains with the bonus of the lovely city of Thessaloniki at the end of the journey.
A cosy jazz 'museum' in the posh area of Kolonaki.
Enjoy vintage jazz in an appropriately smoky environment and have a philosophical chat with Costas the legendary owner.
Avoid telling him that you prefer modern jazz (that's anything after bebop!), he may ask you to leave his bar!
4 Deinokratous st (oposite St George Lycabetus Hotel)
Kolonaki
210-7258362
Real Cretan food in a nice casual chic environment.
Fresh produce shipped daily from the island of Crete. Owner Stavros Theodorakis, famous Greek journalist is around most nights making sure his guests have a great night out.
Gamopilafo (Cretan risotto served at weddings) is the best you can get outside Crete. Around 40 euros per person including wine and dessert. Reservation recommended.
Vrasida 13 (oposite Athens Hilton)
Athens
+30-210/721-0501
It’s sexist, anti-religious and at times stilted but no other book captures Greek hedonism quite like this one. Alexis Zorbas (so memorably portrayed by Anthony Quinn in the film) is the man everyone wants – and perhaps needs – to meet in a lifetime.
The most atmospheric concert venue in the city. A genuine ancient (Roman) theatre situated just below the Acropolis, which can be clearly seen from most seats. Spectacular indeed, especially on a night with a full moon. Concerts of every imaginable kind. Artists I have seen there include the Japanese Kodo Drummers, Paco Pena, Vladimir Ashkenazi conducting the EU Youth Orchestra, the Boston SO, Jan Garbarek, and the late Dizzy Gillespie.
Dionysiou Aeropagitou Str, Acropolis Metro;
tel:210 3232771/3235582
If you fancy a break from the busy tourist trail around Athens in the summer, but want to continue the sightseeing take a 20-40 minute ferry trip to the island of Aegina. Here you can visit the beautiful Temple of Afaia – one of the oldest surviving and well-preserved ancient temples in Greece.
As it is tucked away on a pine-clad hill, the temple attracts only a few travellers so it’s definitely a place to escape the crowds. I went at the height of season last summer and was joined by just two or three others.
Also once you've visited the temple, you can relax on some of the lovely beaches (either in Aghios Marina, or the ones within walking distance of Aegina Town) and still make it back to Athens before evening.
Take a Flying Dolphin ferry to Aegina from Piraeus port (costs around 10-15 euros). This will take you to Aegina Town - here you can jump on the Aghios Marina bus which will drop you right outside the temple
Who says Athenians only go out to see and be seen? This little cafe/bar is a place to find young media types dressed down, listening to The Jam, The Kinks & the Cure, and putting back a few too many Belgian beers. Journalists and web designers abound.
Karytsi 10, just off Stadiou, near Panepistimio or Syntagma metro. Opposite the Mousouri theatre
On the edge of the capital, this pine-covered mount offers fabulous nature walks and a marvellous view of the plain of Athens cradled by Mt Pendeli and Mt Hymettos. In spring, the forest is abloom with wildflowers, including numerous species of orchids.
National Road 1 towards Mount Parnitha, drive up mountain road or take funicular to summit (€1).
Take in Athens’ archaeological sites with a stroll along the cobbled causeway that connects them in a giant, car-free park. The best starting point is Dionysiou Areopagitou, the stupendous boulevard beneath the Acropolis. This idyllic walk is the stuff of dreams. Unbeatably atmospheric, it takes you through the core of ancient Athens, past all its ancient gems down to the necropolis of Kerameikos and the ghostly remains of a more modern age – the gasworks at Gazi.
Nearest metro: Acropolis
In Athens there are more than one open-air summer cinema. They are a cultural delight.
Aigli – Village Cool Summer Cinema, Zappeion (in the National Gardens), Historic Centre; Tel: 210 336 9369/6970; Nearest metro: Syntagma
Probably the best museum in the world for marble sculpture
Patission avenue, Athens
Athens News, Insider Athens, Kathimerini English edition [inside International Herald Tribune] and www.cultureguide.gr/, which provides the most comprehensive digest of cultural and arts events in Greece and is updated daily.
This is Berlin in Athens.
Run by a creative team, this multi-purpose place is the point of reference for alternatively trendy-cool young Athenians. A large bar with minimal decor and experimental DJ sets, a live stage that hosts international progressive artists, a basement club, and a small cinema, all under the same industrial roof.
84 Pireos St
+30 210 3425335
www.bios.gr
You'll listen to good music, enjoy free tapas with your drinks and mingle with interesting young crowds in a place that is packed every single night (avoid Saturdays).
The food in the small restaurant room is also lovely.
44 Triptolemou St.
Gazi
+30 210 3471844
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