A guide by emaf
Our last trip to Marrakesh allowed us to get to know the city more and we are here now to share some of our tips we hope you'll find useful.
If you want to see more of the city, take the guided bus tours. These buses have just been introduced in recent years. They are red, double-deck buses and offer continuous tours throughout the day. Get a 24-hour hopper ticket and you can get off at major stops that take you to Djamaa Lfna, Menara, Saadieen Toms, Koutoubia, Bahia palace, Median, etc. The buses are equipped with recorded messages in multiple languages that provide major highlights of the bus route.
The horse carts might charge more, but have that leisurely stroll around town. May not cover as much of the city as the bus tours. You can however ask the cart person for a short tour that your bus did not cover.
As far as where to visit, start with Djemaa el-Fna or assembly place of the nobodies. This is the centre point of Marrakesh. It is a large square where many of the budget hotels and souks are located. In the evening, there are rows of open-air food stalls, jugglers, snake charmers, storytellers and magicians. Around the square there are rooftop cafes and restaurants with balconies, where you can watch the entire spectacle.
On the other side of the square outside Median walls is the Bahia Palace. It was built in the 19th century as a residence of the grand minister of one of the sultans. It has wonderful gardens, fountains and a shady courtyard. The walls are decorated with Moroccan mosaics, and hand-crafted artwork.
To the front of the square is the Koutoubia mosque. It is the tallest (70m) and most famous landmark in Marrakesh, and is visible for miles in any direction.
The bus tours will also tale you to the Menara garden, which is the most popular among the Marrakshis because it is peaceful and relaxing. It houses the oldest and best-preserved of the three most famous minarets, as well as the largest.
There are many other places we could not see such as The Saadian Tombs, Majorelle Gardens... but I recommend that you don't miss Ali Benmalah or what many call Chez Ali: an impressive memorable Fantasia Show, acrobat, traditional Moroccan folk dance and a dinner fit for a king. A traditional event, it includes an opportunity to see the Berber folklore, the jugglers' performance, the flying carpet, the belly dancing and finally the Fantasia show.
www.ilove-marrakesh.com/chezali/
We had our hotel reservation made through www.asiarooms.com/ which we found offer very good deal on five-star hotels, just make sure you book way in advance.
The bus tour company does not have a site, but was recommended to us by hotel staff, you can't miss it if you ask, some hotels sell their tickets.
There are lots of young men who will accost you as you walk around Marrakech and try to act as your guide to take you to wherever you are going and then demand a fee. This is particularly so once you leave the main square and are heading out to somewhere less easy to find - for example the Bahia Palace, or the Dar Zellij restaurant. Be aware too that some of them will pretend that somewhere is closed when it is not, or will send you off on the wrong direction in order then to get one of their friends to set you right. This is a great shame because it means that, rather than interacting with people, you sometimes have to blank them or even pretend to speak a different language. If you do need directions to somewhere it may be preferable to ask a woman or an older man or a storekeeper - they are more likely to give you accurate directions out of common courtesy without then wanting to accompany you or expecting money in return. If you do end up being accompanied by a 'faux guide' against your will, you may want to explain that you are happy to talk to them along the way but do not wish to have a guide and will not be paying them any money if they accompany you. At least that way, when you reach your destination, you can feel comfortable sticking to your guns and refusing to pay - though be prepared to be pestered repeatedly and to have to hold your resolve. Of course there may be no harm giving a few coins to a boy who has taken some time to get you to the right place, but they should not expect to charge more than this and should be prepared to give you correct and honest information for free. So when one lad demanded 20 dirhams (more than a taxi fare across town) just for telling us which door on the street we were looking for we robustly refused - pour decourager les autres.
Argan oil is highly prized, used both in cooking and cosmetics. Some funny legends about goats - do ask. Shops in Morocco are full of it, but stories abound about fake or diluted products. You can go directly to places where argan nuts are shelled and milled. The cooperatives - usually run by women - are everywhere on the road from Essaouira to Marrakech. On recommendation from my hotel I went quite far - to Cooperative Feminine Argan El Farah in Hanchan, a 25-minute drive from E'ra. Don't know if I needed to go that far, but they had a girl with passable English, which doesn't happen everywhere, so I could ask questions. This was the only place where I could take photos of people at work, more importantly, women at work (they're kind of invisible otherwise). Drivers at the grand-taxi station in E'ra were proposing to take me there for 450 dhrs (30 quid!), but I haggled it down to 150 round-trip and 30 mins waiting (walk away until you really get it your way is one technique). So I talked to the coop lady, took my photos and they gave me a taste of the oil for cooking and some wonderful paste made with argan oil, almonds and honey. Be prepared for a bit of shock when shopping begins. Even at producers level it ain't cheap at all - 250 ml bottle of oil - cooking or massage - is about 10 quid, the paste costs the same. I've reasoned myself with thoughts of the money going directly to the people who work and not to 100 re-sellers in the chain.
El Hanchan, on the main road from Essaouira to Marrakech or any coop closer to E'ra
Souk Cuisine is run by the very friendly Gemma Van de Burgt, in English. She met us in Jemaa el Fna square at 10am and took us around the souks. As she knew all the stall-holders we were able to learn a lot from them and take photos, which can otherwise be quite difficult.
We bought the ingredients then went back to her house which is properly set up for up to five people. We learned to cook about six traditional dishes, including ones not found in restaurants. It was a whole day's entertainment for about £20 including lunch and wine - amazing value and the most fun thing we did.
info@soukcuisine.com
www.soukcuisine.com
+212 73 80 49 55
For some reason or other, superstition or plain dislike of being actors in our holiday snaps, Moroccans hate being photographed. Makes any street photography a nightmare, although most people prefer to quietly step away or lurk in the shade as opposed to making a scene. If you need a close-up portrait, do ask and expect a request for money. I strongly suggest not tipping even at the expense of not having that colourful mint seller in your album. Some folks do agree to be photographed for nothing, but bizzarely, while tuning my lens on one seller I had a policeman coming by and checking that I've got my subject's consent. Children on streets are ready to put a price tag on their father's footprints, so expect some young chap proudly demanding a price. Gently send them away.
When buying leather goods, particularly bags and slippers, check the lining as paper is often used instead of leather. I know this from personal experience.
Over the last twenty years it is harder to find real bargains and the shopkeepers have wised up to European prices and will often ask outrageous amounts for their goods. Be prepared to spend a lot of time to barter the price down to a third of the asking.
This is worth doing for the experience even though you will still probably find the equivalent item in a fixed price shop cheaper.
Still, an amazing city to visit. Wander round and get lost in the souks to soak up the atmosphere.
The central square of Marrakech. It is fantastic, especially in the evening. Smoke rises up from the dozens of food stalls which all offer beautiful piles of vegetables, merguez sausages, kebabs, tagines and more. The cooks will call to you as you walk by, but take your time as you're protected by the watchful eye of the tourist police. When you've chosen, sit down and watch as they theatrically pour out mint tea for you. Bread and sauces are provided. Point out what you want cooked, and then prepare to be defeated. About £5 for much more than two people can eat.
In the daytime fresh juices are on offer. Orange for about 10p, mandarin/clementine for 20p.
The medina offers everything, from dried rose petals to the thuya wood ornaments, and sweets,but was the only place where I was groped and pestered.
And down the road from Djemaa el Fna (the Koutobia Mosque side) is a lovely hammam. Segregated times (so men go in the morning, and women in the afternoon). From Koutobia cross the main road as if you are going to Djemaa el Fna. Take the narrow side road, and follow it down. About 500m down on your left is the hammam. A very cheap, very interesting and relaxing experience.
The centre of Marrakech - you can't miss it.
You have to try it at least once. Most of the stalls are geared to tourists. These usually have large displays of food and hustlers persuading you to eat at their stall. Treat it as a bit of fun but keep control of what you want to eat. For not much more you can eat in one of the many restaurants around the square and get more for your money. The gem is probably the packed stall selling fish (and chips), mainly to locals. Squeeze in when you can & enjoy.
I went to Marrakech for a girls' holiday last weekend, for four days and it was terrible. I had been before with my husband and really enjoyed it, but this time the annoying experiences outweighed the good ones. We were harassed to the point of being sworn at in Djemaa el Fna’s souks, especially the shops near to the square. We had a good idea of how to bargain; they quote a price, you quarter it, and the haggling begins. This was possible in the souks further inside, but the shopkeepers nearer the square were so hot tempered and arrogant that we couldn't be bothered to explore half the time.
Also, at the weekends, medicine is impossible to find. I fell ill and every pharmacy I walked past was closed. When I asked the hotel where I could find one that was open, they directed me to a pharmacist (a short walk away) and told me to read the sign showing which pharmacies were open. But not knowing French made it impossible to decipher this list. I walked 20 minutes in one direction with a hotel bellboy (who I requested to come with), only to find the pharmacy had closed down. And shops and supermarkets sell everything from TVs to nappies, but no aspirin or paracetamol! Our hotel was useless in this situation and showed no sympathy or support.
On our last night one of my friends was robbed as we were waiting for a taxi. Two young boys came up to her and with a knife while she was holding her camera, she gave it immediately. We tried to call for help but we didn't know who to trust. After making our way back to the hotel, the receptionist couldn't even call the police and ask them to come to the hotel to take a report (for insurance). Instead we were advised to get a taxi to the police station (bear in mind we didn't want to go back out because we all felt angry and upset). Having spent an hour in the police station we couldn’t wait to get back to London. We know robberies take place everywhere but the lack of support, care and sympathy in Marrakech was outrageous!
If you want to experience a local hammam try the Bab Doukkala hammam next to the mosque. It is 16th century and has a stunning wood carved ceiling in the changing area and a magnificent domed and arcaded warm room. Men mornings and late evening, women afternoon. Locals only too willing to help you if you dont know the ropes, and you can get a gommage (exfoliation which feels like you are being rubbed with sandpaper). Guys wear trunks and modesty is the order of the day. They say not so for women. A memorable surrounding and experience.
Get a petit taxi to the Bab Doukkala mosque, or walk
This great little patisserie and juice shop is on Rue Dabachi about 50 metres west of Chez Chegrouni (the NW corner of Djemma el-Fna) - the sign is in Arabic only but you'll know it's the one because it's just at the corner of Route Kennaria D. It is open all day but particularly humming with life at about 10-11pm. Join the locals in choosing what to have in your freshly made smoothie/milkshake. Try milk and almonds (lait et amandes), or peach and plum (peche et prune), or a mix (panache - pronounced panashee). Ask for it without sugar if you prefer (sans sucre). The fruit is wonderful. They also do pastries, yoghurts with fruit etc. And they'll make up boxes of Moroccan mini-pastries for you to take home for your friends - a big box holds up to 500g (the cost is very reasonable - think it was 60 dirhams per half kilo). Smoothies and milkshakes are around 9 dirhams each - excellent value even by Moroccan standards. And the staff were very friendly - we became evening regulars and were quite sad to leave. Why doesn't someone set one of these up in London?
Patisserie Al Jawda, Rue Dabachi 16-18, Marrakech, tel 024 38 73 05
In no way a suggestion to be over-suspicious or paranoid, but first time visitors to Moroccan cities please do know that any offers to show you something usually mean you will have to reward (and unexpectedly heavily) in the end. More obvious in Marrakech, but even in the more laidback Essaouria I had a very friendly old chap who was very keen to show me old boats being repaired in the harbor. As it was just there, on the spot, I haven't thought he was thinking of himself as a guide. But naturally, a request for 50 dirhams followed. That's about 3 pounds, so five minutes of gazing at the underbellies of ships translates into something comparable to National Trust. I thrust five dirhams into his hand and walked off - the good thing is that people rarely make fuss. But the sad fact is that almost everyone who approached me during my week there was really keen to promote some sale or receive a payment. This does wear you out.
If it's daytime, and you are travelling within the medina or the New Town, insist the meter (le compteur) is on. It starts at about 1 dirham 60. If they say it's broken, tell them to stop and get out. There are lots of other taxis.
The only ones you negotiate with are the Grand taxis. Petit taxis only take three people. Taxis can be difficult to get during rush hours, 8 - 9.30, 12 - 2 (that’s when they change over drivers too) and 5 - 6.30.
At night, they charge 50% more. Rides in the medina are generally about six dirhams, from the New Town to the medina generally about ten dirhams.
Make sure you have small change.
Getting a taxi from the medina to the airport on the meter is about 25 dirhams, but getting one from the airport to the medina is negotiable. Published tarif is about 60 dirhams, but you may have to pay 100, depending on number of people and amount of luggage and time of day.
After that, how much you tip is up to you.
Pleasant spot in souks area for a refreshing soft drink or light snack (sorry no alcohol as with most places within the medina!). You can sit on the roof terrace watching over the spice souk. Young and friendly staff.
75 Rahba Kedima off Rue Samarine (one of main roues into souk)
8am - 8pm daily
The botanical garden is absolutely mesmerising, as you stroll along the walkways you pass several plants and trees that are waiting to be photographed. In the middle of the garden is a fantastic ornate cobalt blue building. Also housed inside the garden is the Islamic Art Museum. But don't forget to take around 15 Dhirams with you for the entrance fee, you'll also notice that the hustle and bustle of the city suddenly disappears.
Jardin Majorelle Marrakech Maroc
Tel : (00212) 044 30 18 52
Shopping in the souks is an experience that no one ever forgets. But it is a shopping experience quite unlike any other. In order to get the best from the souks, haggling and shopping around is a must as the sellers significantly inflate their initial price for an item you want. There are no hard and fast rules just walk away from a price you are not happy with, but at the same time keep a smile on your face! Remember no trader will ever sell at a loss! Also take a compass to find your way out again - it is so easy to get lost!
Just off the Djamma el Fna
Get a grand taxi to these amazing waterfalls, about 2 hours drive from Marrakech. The most impressive waterfalls in Morocco, they are a welcome break from the madness of the souk. An added bonus are the mischievous barbary apes in the surrounding countryside.
Ask any petit taxi driver to take you to the grand taxi depot for cascads d'ouzoud. Grand taxis only leave when filled (6 people, 4 in the back and 2 in the front passenger seat!). However, if you're willing to pay the cost of six people, you can leave right away.
One of the few restaurants in the medina that serves alcohol. The food was nice but to be honest the food in many of the places surrounding Djemma El Fna was equally nice and cheaper.
14 Derb J'did near Place Des Ferblantiers in Mellah area in the south of the medina.
Les Premices is a great, cheap restaurant with an excellent location over looking the Djema el fna square. It has excellent service, food, and cocktails, and is the perfect place to watch the square come alive.
Overlooking the Djema el fna.
This government-run craft shop has a wide range of souvenirs available at fixed prices. Whilst they may be a bit more expensive than the souks, at least no haggling is needed and the quality is good.
Ensemble Artisanal, Avenue Mohammed V, not far from the Koutoubia Mosque.
Search Been there
