A guide by VANYA
Avoid the queues and get a Paris Pass, which gets you straight to the front of the queue for most museums.
Take a trip/ picnic into the country from Paris to the beautiful Foret de Marly (where Louis XIV used to hunt) on the 'petit train' from Gare Saint Lazare to Saint Nom La Breteche in less than an hour.
The station is in the middle of the forest. Much of the forest is now closed to traffic, which enables pleasant walking and cycling away from the hubbub.
Visit 'Little Russia', complete with pre-revolutionary Cathedral and exquisite cafes around Cathédrale St-Alexandre-Nevski (12 Rue Daru, just behind the Arc de Triomphe).
If you are staying for several days buy a Carte Orange, zone 1 & 2, to use metro/buses etc rather than the Paris Visite tourist pass which is more expensive.
Tickets can be bought at most metro stations, you will need to ask for the wallet and card from the ticket desk, then attach a passport-sized photo and you have free travel from Monday to Sunday. As this is a weekly pass, aimed at Parisian commuters, be careful with the dates, it runs from Monday to Sunday.
There is a beautiful little Polish/Jewish delicatessen just off the rue des Rosier. It's called Chez Marianne and is amazing. Amazing smells and food...lovely!
Visit the Rue Mouffetard for great traditional French food either in pretty French bistros or sitting in the street cafes.
If you are tired of traipsing around the Louvre and Quai d'Orsay head for the Rodin museum and garden.
Have a good look around the main house museum then head out to the lovely gardens. At the very bottom you will find some shaded sun loungers where you can catch your breath and even be sketched by the life drawing class that goes there most afternoons.
The downside of a weekend in Paris, people say, is that it closes on a Sunday. Not around the Rue des Martyrs it doesn’t.
Just by St Georges Metro, fifteen minutes from the Gare du Nord and Eurostar, lies this wonderful untouristy very French part of Paris with a Sunday morning market to buy your pastries, cheese, charcuterie, fish, wine, chocolate and second hand books.
Stay in the Trois Poussins hotel for discreet affordable luxury, and who could resist the No Stress Café across the road which does exactly what it says on the tin?
Everything is to die for! And, as the owner, Arnaud Delmontel, is the winner of the best baguette challenge, he is the supplier of the Palais de l'Elysée. Here you can have the same bread as Nicolas Sarkozy!
39 rue des Martyrs
+33 1 48 78 29 33
Metro : Pigalle
www.arnaud-delmontel.com/
A lovely little Jewish/Greekish deli in the Jewish part of the Marais. They have a cosy little restaurant attached where you can select from the deli items. Great value for money, high quality and very tasty. Plenty of Parisien(ne)s.
2, Rue Hospitalières St Gervais
75004 Paris, France
+33 1 42 72 18 86
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