A guide by pennyrua
Lisbon's botanical gardens are - like most things in Lisbon - on a precipitous slope; they're also lush, tropical, usually empty and feel like they've been there a million years. A beautiful, cool oasis right in the heart of the city.
Rua Escola Politécnica, Principe Real;
Open every day from 9am - 7pm
What is happening to Parque Mayer? This atmospheric hodge-podge of theatres, music halls, restaurants and cinemas just off the Avenide da Liberdade has been slowly crumbling away for years, and plans were announced to tear down the lot and replace it with a Frank Gehry-designed complex. Those plans seem to have been abandoned and the beautiful art deco Teatro Capitólio, despite a local campaign and listing by World Monuments Watch, is still being left to rot. Go for a wander around while you can: it's like being on a David Lynch film set.
Parque Mayer, Travessa do Salitre;
Metro: Avenida
www.wmf.org/resources/sitepages/portugal_teatro_capitolio.html
Beyond Estrela lies the smart, chic and self-contained district of Campo de Ourique: a grid of tree-lined streets with an almost Parisian feel, with plenty of small shops, cafes and a fresh produce market. Off the beaten track, but a pleasant (and mercifully flat) area for a stroll. South-west of here is the huge Prazeres ('Pleasures') cemetery, which has great views across the Ponte 25 de Abril.
At the western end of the 28 tram route: some trams end their journey at Estrela, so make sure the sign on the front of the tram says 'Prazeres'.
It's just a normal tram route but it traverses the centre of town and takes in the castle, Baixa and the Bairro Alto.
Catch it going in either direction from the Praca de Comercio, or anywhere else on its route.
One of the nicest hostels I've stayed in anywhere in Europe and at a good price too. Run by the owners, who are exactly the kind of people who should be in charge.
Rua do Duque 41;
tel: 21 346 1058;
email:lisbonpoetshostel@gmail.com,
info@lisbonpoetshostel.com;
www.lisbonpoetshostel.com
Small simple elegant hostel/hotel. Spotless with impeccable wooden floors everywhere. Very close to the action and with a tiny park in front - used by winos, but the police station is next door. On the bus route to the airport and close to the central station. Very reasonably priced. A real snip!
Praca de Alegria 12;
tel: 213 220 670;
email: mail@alegrianet.com;
www.alegrianet.com
This isn’t the most impressive of buildings from the outside – it looks rather squashed between the current day buildings – but inside it is very gorgeous indeed.
The main part of the cathedral is viewable in the usual way, but there is also an ‘archaeological area’ which you pay to enter, where you can see layers of building from the Greek and Roman periods as well as the middle ages.
The Duomo also contains two phials said to hold the solidified blood of San Gennaro which nevertheless miraculously turns back to liquid twice a year. If it fails to do so then a disaster is imminent.
Via del Duomo 147;
tel: 081 449 097
'Spaccanapoli', the historic centre, is the heart of Naples. Go to Piazza Gusu and pick up a map that shows the locations of the architectural treasures of this area. There are numerous churches, monasteries, palazzos and some great cafés. Whatever you do, don't miss the monastery of Santa Chiara. It's breathtaking. Scarturchio's café has some of the best pastries and coffee in Italy.
Keep your wits about you and you'll be fine.
Piazza Dante underground station. Enter the historic centre through Port'Alba, the city gate behind the statue of Dante.
The castle dates back to the 13th century, but it includes impressive Renaissance additions which make it an imposing sight. It's also worth paying a few euros to have a look inside, where you'll find the Barons Hall, a chapel, a disconcertingly glass-floored room that you can walk on to view original foundations below, and an exhibition of art and artefacts. It also has excellent top-floor views over the bay.
Piazza Municipio;
tel: 081 795 2003
A large, marble-floored, glass-roofed space, impressive as a piece of 19th century architecture in itself, that now houses various shops, cafes and restaurants. It's a little expensive to eat and drink here, but the surroundings somewhat compensate - just wander around and take a few photos if you don't need nourishment. You're also likely to find performances of various kinds going on, but beware the usual hawkers trying to sell you stuff.
Via San Carlo;
www.italyguides.it/us/napoli/umbe.htm
A fine youth hostel. The dorms are well airconditioned, close to the city centre and transport links to places such as Pompeii. The staff are exceptionally helpful and friendly and there's internet facilities, a laundry service and common room for meeting fellow travellers.
Fantastic museum full of modern art - if nothing else, it contains Picasso's incredible (and enormous) Guernica. Like a lot of the museums in Madrid, admission is free on Sundays.
Metro: Atocha; www.museoreinasofia.es/
Watch your bags etc especially outside the Reina Sofia Gallery - Madrid has one of the highest crime rates against tourists in the world and they particularly prey on people outside this gallery, creeping up from behind on the varying levels at the front of the gallery
Goya and Velázquez are reason enough.
Paseo del Prado; Tel: +34 91 330 28 00; Closed Monday; Admission: €6; museoprado.mcu.es/
After a morning spent immersed in the European art of the Museo del Prado, the Royal Botanical Gardens next door provide a rejuvenating (and cheap - 2 Euros) variation.
Surprisingly peaceful, when considering that it's situated in the centre of Madrid. Sit in the shade under one of the many trees, or learn a little about the many plant species.
Real Jardín Botánico
2, Plaza de Murillo
28028 Madrid
Underground station: Atocha, Atocha-Renfe
I recommend using buses rather than trains for getting between towns and cities in Spain. They are both cheaper and quicker than the trains which tend to take indirect routes and are unreliable. The best routes to use the train for is between Barcelona to Madrid (2 hours) and Madrid to Seville (2 hours). These routes are covered by the AVE - an express train which covers the large distances between both points in a couple of hours rather than the usual 6-7 hours which the much slower regional 'express' trains take.
A town in central spain that you can easily get to from Madrid.
It is my favourite place in Spain - it has an amazing aquaduct, a beautiful castle which is supposed to be the inspiration for the Disney/Cinderella Castle, a lovely cathedral and the usual well kept central plaza with lots of great bars/restaurants.
You can get a local train from Madrid to Segovia station.
Take the metro from Barajas airport to central Madrid for 1 euro - and every single trip costs the same. We bought a weekly card and did not use it. Everything in central Madrid is so close that we walked - from the Palacio Real to the Prado is only 20 minutes, provided you can avoid the bars!
Big art gallery in central Madrid. Goya and Velasquez are good but Bosch steals the show for me. Very strange and very dark.
This looked a good thing, but we found that by walking and judicious visits to attractions, it was not cost effective. I can appreciate families may have youngsters, but we oldies can walk and we spent far less than the card in our week in Madrid.
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