BA is bursting with cafes and confiterias, a number of which are now firmly on the tourist track. If you would like to try something a little more 'locale', check out Confiteria Las Violetas, a few stops west on the Subte (underground). It is a slice of real BA 'confiteria culture' with its grand tables, fine stained-glass windows, traditional service, not to mention a rather tempting menu - particularly for those with a sweet tooth.

Rivadavia 3899; nearest undergorund: Castro Barros;
tel: 00 61 4958 7387

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The best ice cream in Argentina, which is saying more than a lot, is based on the gelati traditions from immigrant Italians and improved with the superior milk from Argentine dairies.

Salguero, 2591; 9am-2am

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Of course you should eat the beef whilst in Buenos Aires, but at some point you might seek something a little different. If so, try Filo, an Italian restaurant, right in the heart of the city, by Plaza San Martin. The pizzas are divine, the wine sublime, and the tiramisu is the best in the southern hemisphere. There's even a tasteful gallery in the basement.

Address: San Martin, 975
Tel: 011 4311 0312
www.filo-ristorante.com

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