Every Sunday evening the residents of the cobbled streets of San Telmo indulge themselves in their favourite pastime, the tango. Don't pay for an expensive tango show, simply observe from a bustling cafe these locals doing what they do best well into the early hours of Monday morning.

San Telmo is easily reached from Buenos Aires's main Avenue, Avenida de Mayo, walking for approximately 15 minutes along La Defensa.

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The government mansion, Casa Rosada, stands at one end of the small park. Outlines of human figures are painted in white, each has a name and the date when that person 'disappeared'. On Thursdays, the mothers of the disappeared come to the square to demonstrate silently.

At 6pm everyday the Grenadiers march out of the Casa Rosada. They goose-step out of the main entrance, across the road into Plaza de Mayo where they take down the Argentinian flag from its pole.

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It's the place you associate with Buenos Aires, where the houses are painted in electric pinks, blues, yellows and greens. Buy a small painting from the local artists as a souvenir.

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The city's beautiful sprawling green lung, 350 acres of trees and lakes created by a 19th-century French landscape artist. Visit the zoo, the botanical gardens or the planetarium. The city government provides free outdoor gym classes while others jog, skate, cycle, play soccer or simply soak in the sun.

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Take a leisurely stroll through the old neighbourhood of Palermo Viejo and its hip enclaves Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, where young Argentine artists and the expatriate Americans and Europeans who have made Buenos Aires their home in recent years tend to dwell. On weekends you'll find lots of outdoor activity going on, live music, hippie fairs and art exhibits. It doesn't get more pleasant than this.

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The final resting ground for generations of Argentina's elite. An eerily peaceful mini-city of the dead, featuring marble and stone mausoleums coronated with angels blowing stone trumpets and life-size likenesses of the illustrious departed. Ironically, this is where Evita Perón, who fought the country's oligarchy so fiercely, rests, in the Duarte family vault, under three layers of thick steel to guard her coffin from would-be desecrators.

Junín, 1760; Tel: 4803 1594

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Basically it's a landfill just behind Puerto Madera (three blocks behind, going away from the city and towards the Rio de la Plata). It's been a landfill for many years now and giving various plants, trees and lots of different animals the chance to grow there. If you want to go for a quiet walk, away from the hussle and bustle of the city, this is the best place to go. It's got water and many different species of butterflies and plants, lizards and birds. It's probably the biggest green space I know of in Buenos Aires that you don't have to walk too far to get to.

Avenida Corrientes, follow the avenue down to Luna Park then on to Puerto Madera, and just keep walking - you can't miss it. There are two entrances at both ends each entrance is about 2km apart and then you can enter, absolutely free.

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