Argentina
The best steak I had in Buenos Aires. A cool, cosy little restaurant in Microcentro. Have the dada steak and go for one of their house cocktails!
San Martin 947, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Google map: bit.ly/pJKHFT
A lovely little corner cafe in San Telmo that serves everything from traditional Argentine food such as steak empanadas and medialunas for breakfast to sandwiches, chips and great coffee. In the evenings it has a buzzing atmosphere and local musicians come and play.
Chile 502, y Bolívar
+54(0)11 4300 7340
Google map: bit.ly/kDFq4V
Best tasting menu I have ever eaten - £20, and we got a 14-course meal, with some of the most original combinatinos I have ever eaten. Truly gourmet, and amazing experience.
Bolivar 865, San Telmo, www.lavineriadegualteriobolivar.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/36thfrv
This is a really nice and complete guide for restuarants and bars in Buenos Aires. It's in English too and provides you with good and helpful information about the places.
If you are just tired of the red meat thing, try the Japanese-Peruvian fusion at Sipan (Paraguay 624). It is really an excellent and consistent restaurant that delivers great creations. Try the tiraditos de maracuya and the awesome ceviche.
Paraguay 624,
y Florida
Google map: tinyurl.com/yj2xj5a
thechukker.blogspot.com
This is the definitive guide for fine dining in Buenos Aires. In English too and also makes comments on wines. Invaluable guide.
Maat is a private dining club in the district of Belgrano in Buenos Aires. You normally need to be a member to eat here but they will accept tourists. Please book ahead and expect a formal dining room and incredible service. The six-course tasting menu is great value. Expect upwards of $100 for two.
Sucre 2168, Belgrano. Buenos Aires
tel 48961818
www.maatclubprivado.com.ar
Google map: tinyurl.com/nkhgrg
Finisterra offers great delights at small prices in the warm and informal atmosphere of the classic Argentinean resto-bar.
5190 Honduras (corner of Uriarte)
Palermo Soho - Buenos Aires
www.finisterra-bar.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/mb8e4s
This stunning, unassuming restaurant in San Telmo has possibly the best tasting menu in the world! About 20 small dishes (with matching Argentinian wines) for 500 pesos for two people, and delightful staff. A bargain since this is not far off Fat Duck standards of food. Three hours of pleasure.
Bolivar 865
4361-865
Google map: tinyurl.com/m8fbyu
La Cabrera is one of the best steakhouses I have ever eaten in. It's based in Palermo the posh area of BA, between Cabrera and Thames.
It serves up the best steaks and malbecs in Argentina and is reasonably priced but choose one steak dish for two as they bring you four steaks. It has some outside seating and is extremely safe.
Take a taxi there and from central it will cost you five pesos.
www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar/
Google map: tinyurl.com/nrudtt
When I went to BA on business for six weeks, my heart sank at the thought of all the bad "sorry did you say you don't eat meat" so-called dinners I'd be enduring. How wrong I was - in BA (admittedly eating in good restaurants, sure it's different beyond the city) I ate superbly almost every night. Yes, my companions were tucking into the most ridiculous slabs of beef at the same time, but I'm used to that.
My favourite two places were Sucre and Miranda, the first a pretty hip restaurant, the second more informal. Always washed down with an amazing glass of malbec.
Palermo
Been to Buenos twice now, this place does the best steak without breaking the bank. Also the huge waiter is hilarious.
Its on Defensa, Between Estados Unidos and Av. Independencia in San Telmo.
Hip restaurant in Belgrano. Good modern Argentinian food, great wine list, cavernous industrial-chic interior, slightly pretentious but the place to go if you want to spend an evening with the BA "it" crowd.
676 Sucre, Buenos Aires
www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar
Google map: tinyurl.com/nhyr2h
After almost three years in Buenos Aires I am pretty much sick of beef and the options for anything else are extremely few and far between. Any food other than red meat is invariably a disappointment no matter how nice the surroundings. So imagine my happiness at discovering a famous Argentine chef's new restaurant just up the road from my house. French trained Paul Jean Azema's restaurant is reasonably priced (although quite expensive by Argentine standards) and the food is fantastic; a mix of French, Indian, US and English and all cooked to perfection. This place is truly a keeper and if it weren't for the fact that i'm leaving BA in a couple of months for Valparaiso in Chile (another amazing place to live or visit) I'd keep my mouth firmly shut and the place to myself. Enjoy...!
Carranza 1875, Palermo Hollywood
Google map: tinyurl.com/nnb6m2
Smoking was recently banned in all bars, restaurants and enclosed public spaces (bars over 100m2 are allowed a separate smoking area). The law appears to be being upheld and respected, although i'm not sure how as Argentines smoke more than a stereotypical Albanian and are not known for their law abiding-ness.
It has made going out much more bearable, even for someone like me who likes a fag now and again. Before, bars and restaurants were under a pall of smoke and it was common to leave with stinging eyes and stinking clothes. It's the second progressive law to come out of the blue in the last couple of years (gay civil unions being the other). This country never ceases to amaze me, lurching from one extreme to the other. Fantastic.
Everywhere
Far and away the best bife de lomo I've had in my three years in Buenos Aires is served in El Trapiche, a huge family-orientated parilla packed every night of the week by locals and tourists alike and which hasn't succumbed to pretentions. I go at least twice a month. Having recently being taken by a friend to Cabana Las Lilas, I can honestly say that El Trapiche not only beats it into submission on the quality of the beef but also in the price.
A proveleta (barbecued cheese), a chorizo (sausage) a shared bife de lomo (one portion is easily big enough for two), a salad, a serving of chips, a decent bottle of Malbec and coffee will come to around 90 pesos (£8 a head) for two. And if you get served by Juan, you'll get the best waiter in town.
Corner of Paraguay and Humbodlt, Palermo Hollywood.
Google map: tinyurl.com/mykr6b
If you really need a curry and a nice pint you should check out the bar Gibraltar in San Telmo, on the corner of Peru and Estados Unidos.
Perú 895, y Estados Unidos, San Telmo, Buenos Aires;
tel: 54-11-4362-5310
Google map: tinyurl.com/me9tev
A stunning converted mansion with a garden. The food used to be good but they changed the menu in November to some sort of Latin fusion, doubled the price and it's now truly awful. Drinks are good though and the actual building is amazing.
Parana 1048, between Santa fe and Marcelo T de Alvear.
Google map: tinyurl.com/kusduu
An excellent choice for carnivores that don’t enjoy touristy spots. The other branch of La Brigada in San Telmo is always packed with tourists.
2475 Peña St (half a block from Plaza Barrientos)
www.labrigada.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/l4tdvl
Only Uruguayans eat more beef per capita than the Argentines so it stands to reason they'd know a thing or two on the subject.
La Celeste, a parilla set in the cobblestone alleys of trendy Palermo Viejo serves an excellent steak dinner with all the fixings, including a decent Malbec for 30 pesos. Plus there is a table soccer game in the outside patio to help you make room for dessert.
Medrano 1475, Palermo Viejo. Tel: 4822 1112
www.lacelestemvd.com.ar
Google map: tinyurl.com/kktjo7
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