Saturday and Sunday near the Recoleta cemetery about 100 stands set up and create an open air market of artisan goods. Silver, leather, clothing, pottery, art- nice quality for better pricing than the stores they sell to.

Google map: bit.ly/qfjlRw
www.feriaplazafrancia.com/

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This could be quite possibly the plushest shopping center you may ever visit. Located on Florida Street and Cordoba Avenue, the exterior alludes to the amazing features inside, with its golden lighting and full length window displays. Enter through the doors and it’s almost like you have entered the halls of Grand Central station, with the superb bonus of having a stunning biblical mural painted upon the ceiling. The designer shops on offer are second to none in the city, as fashionista’s will find themselves in shopping heaven.

Corner of Florida Street and Cordoba Avenue

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A shoe store with the trendiest and best made shoes I've ever worn! Models designed after 50s sport shoes. Great colour combinations, and made by hand! The owner told me he sells most of the shoes and sneakers in Denmark and Japan. They have a museum with tons of 40s and 50s sport shoes.

Gurruchaga y Gorriti
Palermo, Buenos Aires
www.28sport.com

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Buenos Aires is one of the most remarkable places I have ever been. It's clean, classy, safe, and dirt cheap. The leather bags are at least 400 pounds cheaper than what you would buy on the high street.

Also they have miles and miles of shops on Florida and Avenida Santa Fe where you can buy anything for one third of the price in the US or UK.

We stayed at the art hotel in Recoleta which was a boutique hotel with contemporary art in the foyer, free internet access, great rooms and wet room bathrooms.

Beware the fake taxis in Buenos Aires. Because we'd been there for four days we realised that if they don't have a proper meter in the right hand corner and photographic id on the back of the driver's seat then don't get in. We used a taxi which charged us three times the price of a journey from the airport. We refused to pay and threatened to call the Policia!
If this happens to you get to your hotel and ask the concierge to translate... avoid at all costs.

Otherwise, BA is one of the safest cities in the world and the people are very nice. Palermo is great and so is Recoleta. Avoid San Telmo if you have to. Use taxis rather than buses as they are very cheap and the metro is great for getting around centrally. In taxis from the Newbery internal airport it should cost you no more than $14 and to the international around $50.

Try and go to the best steak restaurant in the Palermo area called La Cabrera, it's economical but BOOK AHEAD as it gets very busy.

Various.. please email me if you want any tips neillhenderson@hotmail.com(no spam)

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It's all about the best wine in Buenos Aires you can find, but what stuck out more in my mind was the great wonderful service you get at La Botica del Vino.

It's like taking a big variety-type wine emporium blended with the attention you would get from a family store. You can't beat it, ask for Hernan. Argentina´s red wine is world class, but the prices still aren't.

Florida 971, local#9, Galería Larreta
phone: 54-11-4894-2054
mail: info@bdv.com.ar
www.bdv.com.ar

Google map: tinyurl.com/nt6us3

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For a first good grasp of Buenos Aires, stay for a minimum of seven full days. Think about four or five days for the city and two for outdoors (Estancias, Tigre & Delta islands boat tour, Colonia in Uruguay).

Premium guided in-depth walking tours are a must for first timers and for second timers too. Even Porteños may benefit on it. Take one or two that fulfil your specific interests.

Plan in advance your BA walking tours and BA visit with a map of the city, tourist guides such as Time Out, books of BA as Bad Times in BA by Miranda France. Google things and participate in travel forums as Trip Advisor before arriving.

Cycling in BA is dangerous, except in Bosques de Palermo and Plazas (parks).

Shopping is one of BA’s top attractions. Cash is king, and you won´t have to pay off your credit cards when you get back home.


Search for reasonably priced apartment rentals, don´t expect to find cheap ones in Recoleta. Try renting direct from the owner of the property if possible, there are people (locals) that own three or more apartments and they manage their business through word of mouth. Prices for a full month’s rental of a well-located apartment should cost about U$S 600.

Argentinians in general are tourist friendly. Some knowledge of Spanish will help you more than you might think.

Websites that may help in your search:
www.interpatagonia.com
www.welcomeargentina.com
www.guillebaires.com
www.guiaoleo.com

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Having once stayed in Recoleta, I discovered that Palermo is the only place worth staying in Buenos Aires. Tree-lined low rise buildings in the most fashionable trendy part of the city with all the cutting edge bars, restaurants and hotels.

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Exotic, delicate and sophisticated women's shoes, a chic boutique with hand made shoes inspired by a Hindu princess.

El Salvador, Palermo Hollywood; tel: 4777-6371
You can find this place on free maps of palermo and shopping zone magazine

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A new and very cool bookstore in the heart of Palermo Hollywood, where most of the local TV,
radio and film studios are located. Set in a typical Casa Chorizo, this beautiful libreria framed in mahogany bookshelves, offers meals in a quaint setting, with a full bar and cafe set in the back.

An ample selection of English language books plus local guides make it a perfect stop for
a quiet moment for a 'cortado' after eating at one of the local eateries or before checking out
the BA nightlife.

Honduras 5574; tel: 4774-4100;
www.eternacadencia.com

Google map: tinyurl.com/mjrfw4

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A small, cluttered, brilliant bookshop. The staff are not pushy but they know about books and like talking about them. An essential visit for anyone who reads Spanish and even more so for anyone interested in Argentine literature.

Av. Las Heras 2225. Tel +54 (0)11-4807-2039
Google map: tinyurl.com/nmu4sc

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I moved from Europe a year ago to BA, and found my home in Palermo. The centre for the best art, creatives, music and fashion. The boutiques here are amazing, for men Felix is my favourite, combining Paul Smith casual wear with BA street style to fantastic effect, they have the most amazing jeans for 20 odd quid. When I go back to London all my fashiony friends continually rave about it. They also do a very nifty line in exclusive Nikes.

There's also a fabulous Addidas shop and then there are great bars for afters. For girls I reccomend Mishka "shoes for princesses". But there are a host of others, particulaly "Lupe". Most importantly check out the Palermo maps, they are the bible.

Music wise nothing beats the clubs and record shops in Europe, but Make sure you check out Club 69, Thursdays at Niceto (from 1am for me the best club in South America... and I've been to loads) make sure you stay for the show at 4am, and also Rumi (bit posher but still good) on Wed night.

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Perhaps you fancy a trip to a Paul Smith style men's shop (full of old tin toys and swinging London/indie paraphenalia) and a new wardrobe for £150? The stuff on sale in Felix is great quality and WILL be commented upon back home ... my stripey scarf is remarked upon by many a female - great purchase.

Palermo Vieja - in the midst of the boutiques

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Since devaluation in 2001, hundreds of talented, young designers have emerged from the woodwork in a bid to make a living during the economic crisis. Most of these appear to have opened small boutiques in Palermo Viejo, where one-off designs can be purchased for just a few pesos. For even better bargains, however, wait until the weekend before paying a visit to the area of Palermo Viejo surrounding Plaza Serrano. This is when the local bars play host to the city's design fair. Literally hundreds of local designers (most of which are still unable to afford to set up a shop of their own) flood the Plaza, offering everything from hand-made belts, customised shirts and one-off cocktail dresses. Arrive in the early afternoon to avoid the crowds.

Most of the bars surrounding Plaza Cortazar, Palermo Viejo

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Everybody has been raving about all the new films coming out of Argentina -r oad movies, neo-realistic dramas, amateur actors and so on. But before you even get on the plane, try to see the film Sur - it's a lyrical evocation of Buenos Aires' lost tangi soul. It will help you to see ghosts where there are voids and see beauty where there is only damage.

Good video libraries, you can buy it in BA on the side streets of Florida

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Pick up some of the great new fashions from young Argentinian designers. They look good, feel great and with the favourable exchange rate, are exceptionally affordable. Palermo Soho is peppered with cosy boutiques. Men should pay a visit to Felix for casual clothes with a colourful dash, while women looking for something chic and bohemian should try Cat Ballou where clothes are made from traditional Argentinian materials and velvet dyed by the owners.

Felix: Gurruchaga, 1670; Tel: 4832 2994; www.felixba.com.ar/; Cat Ballou: Costa Rica, 4520

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When in Palermo, visit Mercer if only just to see the shop - the huge space is decked out like some bizarre Jules Verne/circus extravaganza and the clothes are pretty nifty too.

Personally I wasn't too fussed by Felix, but the slightly smarter clobber in Bolivia, El Cid and Antique Demin definitely got my wallet's vote.

Mercer, Bolivia, El Cid and Antique Denim are all in Palermo, on or around Gurruchaga

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