Old-fashioned buzzy bar on the edge of the square where at weekends you can watch tango and browse the flea market. Speedy service from the ageing waiters... grab a table outside if you can, order a chop and watch the comings and goings in the square.

Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo

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My favourite mid-day retreat, a small cafe with outdoor tables and a tasty €4 lunch menu on a corner facing Plaza Armenia in fashionable Palermo Soho. It's a welcome change from the bustling downtown area, a meeting place for expatriates, and after coffee or lunch, I get to inspect the nearby trendy boutiques, designer studios and bookshops.

Costa Rica, 4602; Tel: 4831 1083

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