Australia
"I want some culture / Never mind the cheese / I just wanna hear music / And originality / I want some culture / Never mind the TV / Just wanna hear music / Down at the 303..."
And so with these lyrics began my quest to track down this must-see live music venue in trendy Northcote, north Melbourne. These are the opening lines of a song called "Down at the 303" by Melbourne's most famous sons, The Cat Empire, a band who my Australian wife had introduced me to over here in grey old England when we were a-courtin'. And I fell in love with her, and with the band. And with Melbourne, though I'd never been there. No matter, my wife and I arranged our wedding and honeymoon so I could see it. We got married in Australia, on the Gold Coast, then flew down to Melbourne for the honeymoon. And I fell in love again. It was July, winter time, totally out of season, but I loved it. The sun shone, it rained, it hailed, all on the same tram ride through town. And on our last night in Melbourne, we made it down to the 303.
Barely noticeable on High Street, Northcote, they don't really even have a sign outside, but it's identifiable as being next door to the Northcote Social Club.
We walked in, my heart pounding. An intimate, cosy bar upstairs, low lighting, and conspiratorial chats between young lovers. We got a drink. We moved downstairs to the venue. It was heaving, and sweaty. Some of the quietest, most beautiful live music I've ever heard was being played by a band I've now forgotten the name of. But there was no hustle or bustle, no angry, angsty pushing and shoving. Everyone was sat cross-legged on the floor. My wife and I joined them, rubbing knees with smiling strangers. It was a beautiful evening.
The Cat Empire's song (see youtube link below) is about the joy of seeing a local band in a small, local, intimate venue. It's about getting out there and finding the girl of your dreams at the gig of a lifetime, not sitting at home watching TV, not listening to cheese.
"Music is for living/ Yes, music is essential/ Music should take risks and be experimental/ In the cultchaaaa!!!"
Go check it out, go find the life of your dreams.
303 High Street, Northcote, Victoria, 3070
+61(0)3 9482 4577
www.303.net.au/
Google map: bit.ly/jUwxA0
youtu.be/bqONT9gzbLc
This place is an amazing little gig venue.
Genuinely intimate and and acoustically excellent, you will be able to get up close and personal with your favourite artists.
The best thing about it is that often up and coming British bands will gig here before they've really cracked Australia so you get a chance to see a band you love in a room barely bigger than your front room.
Oh and stay at the Prince Hotel too - it's fantastic.
www.princebandroom.com.au/
29 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda Victoria 3182
+61 3 9536 1168
Google map: bit.ly/kk3Un9
Melbourne is the place to be in Australia for clubbing. I spent a bit of time in Sydney but Melbourne is a thousand times better in my opinion.
The best places in Melbourne can be found at www.barsandnightclubs.com.au
Google map: tinyurl.com/ybehz6f
The biggest and most glamorous casino in Australia. It also has theatre and concerts and free live entertainment dotted around the complex. Great fun to wander around and admire the kitsch decorative style.
Tram Nos 12, 96 and 109 run past Crown; Flinders Street and Spencer Street Stations are within walking distance. Details at www.crowncasino.com.au/
There's plenty of reasons for eating something as greasy as a souvlaki, but for the life of me I couldn't think of one that didn't include alcohol. For that end of the night food-binge, there's few that can hold a candle to the souvlakis from the King - fresh ingredients, great flavour and just the right amount of garlic sauce. And great service too! Local newspaper The Age rated it as one of the best in Melbourne.
Brunswick St, Fitzroy (not far from the corner of Johnston St)
A decidedly different club down a dirty laneway, this is one of Melbourne's best kept nightlife secrets. Ascend the rickety old stairs and you enter a long space with all the charm you could want - organic design, forward thinking DJs and some great cocktails. It can be a bit exclusive on the door Fridays and Saturdays, so get there before 11 and you should be right.
Duckboard Place (off Flinders Lane, near Exhibition St), Melbourne; www.honkytonks.com.au
A great all-rounder to finish off a day at the beach or Luna Park, the 'Espy' is bit of a Melbourne institution with a reputation for giving up and coming bands their chance - AC/DC played here when they first started and just about every other famous Aussie band has followed suit. Sit outside on the terrace overlooking the bay or find one of the many shady corners inside to watch the colour acts on the small stage until the big shows start in the main hall. Like most Aussie bars this one also has a slew of pool tables at the back, and serves top-notch food at in-house restaurant The Espy Kitchen.
Lower Esplanade, St Kilda
The Espy (aka Esplanade Hotel) is a St Kilda institution. Great location, looking out over the bay and back to Melbourne city centre. Mostly known as a live music venue, but as well as the band rooms, there's a public bar, pool tables, good food availble and the best atmosphere of any Melbourne pub.
11 The Esplanade, St. Kilda
Very good cocktails. The bars on Brunswick Street remind me of being in Hoxton, but without the attitude and fashion victims.
304 Brunswick Street in Fitzroy.
Currently Bust-a-nut, DJ Kano's night Saturday night is a highlight.
393 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy
This was the coolest bar I went to on Brunswick Street. I couldn't believe the red velvet decor in this place - it could be a Paris salon transported to present-day Australia.
401 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy.
Search Been there