Cosy pub run by the Schwinzerl family and frequented by a complete cross-section of Graz society. Excellent traditional food. Try the Grauburgunder wine; the Most (cider; a typical product east of Graz, but rarely served in pubs in the city); the knödel mit ei (fried slices of semmelknödel with egg and parsley - a work of art); the frankfurter mit saft (poor man's gulasch- just the gravy, with a pair of frankfurters); the gulasch proper. And if you want a serious dessert (smallest serving is for at least two people) try the gibance ("kipp-an-tse"), a fat pancake oozing with creme fraiche and jam - it's a local legend.

The coffee is also very respectable. Order a verlängerter (say "eee hett gairn an kafay, an ferlengerten bitte").

A wonderful Graz institution, hanging in there in an age of yuppification.

It’s on Mariahilferstrasse, which is the street parallel to the river and one block away from it, behind the Kunsthaus (blue bubble). Stroll across the blue pedestrian bridge by the "island" and head through the nearest gap between the houses - the pub is at the back corner of the house on the left.

Mariahilferstrasse 16;
Tel: 316 71 20 08;
Tram stop: Südtirolerplatz;
Closed on Thursdays and Fridays, otherwise (unlike many establishments in Graz) it is open all day, including public holidays.

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