Cosy pub run by the Schwinzerl family and frequented by a complete cross-section of Graz society. Excellent traditional food. Try the Grauburgunder wine; the Most (cider; a typical product east of Graz, but rarely served in pubs in the city); the knödel mit ei (fried slices of semmelknödel with egg and parsley - a work of art); the frankfurter mit saft (poor man's gulasch- just the gravy, with a pair of frankfurters); the gulasch proper. And if you want a serious dessert (smallest serving is for at least two people) try the gibance ("kipp-an-tse"), a fat pancake oozing with creme fraiche and jam - it's a local legend.

The coffee is also very respectable. Order a verlängerter (say "eee hett gairn an kafay, an ferlengerten bitte").

A wonderful Graz institution, hanging in there in an age of yuppification.

It’s on Mariahilferstrasse, which is the street parallel to the river and one block away from it, behind the Kunsthaus (blue bubble). Stroll across the blue pedestrian bridge by the "island" and head through the nearest gap between the houses - the pub is at the back corner of the house on the left.

Mariahilferstrasse 16;
Tel: 316 71 20 08;
Tram stop: Südtirolerplatz;
Closed on Thursdays and Fridays, otherwise (unlike many establishments in Graz) it is open all day, including public holidays.

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On top of "Plabutsch" (the high hill behind Eggenberg Palace) on the western edge of city. From snacks to a full blown meals, all food and drink is locally sourced or homemade (including homegrown Venison!) Not easy to find but has the best views over the whole of Graz. The centre of Graz has a market town feel, so guests are always surprised to see that it is much bigger than it seems, especially after dark when the green suburbs light up and visitors look down on a sparkling sea of lights... There is a viewing platform above the restaurant.

8051 Graz, Fürstenstandweg 100; tel: 585 700;
Open: Wedneday-Sunday 11am-11pm (but closed in winter as the road is very steep!);
Access: It is a lovely but tiring walk to the top of the Plabutsch. (take a map!)
Car/Taxi: Only way up is a minor road (Fürstenstandweg) branching off from the Steinbergstrasse, if driving yourself you will need a city map.

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