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Philharmonic orchestra, Vienna
Photo: David Sillitoe/The Guardian

The peak of civilisation
Vienna has been a tourist venue for at least 200 years, and for good reason. As capital of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire, it was the highest point of civilisation of Old Europe, and the wonderful buildings reflect this. Now, as a modern city as well as an old one, it combines old-world charm with all the modern accoutrements.

We went on a city break, but there are numerous ways to go and loads of different places to stay. Lots of people speak English, if you cannot manage Wiener-deutsch! It is no longer a cheap place to visit, but still worth every penny. Dining out is comparable to any other modern capital, but trams, buses and the metro are very reasonable, especially if you buy a fistful of tickets in advance.

If you love old palaces, there are plenty, but I suggest you see them in this order: Belvedere lower (old) palace, Belvedere upper palace, the Hofburg, and Schoenbrunn last. Nothing can follow Schoenbrunn! It is a short way out of the town, but easy to get to on public transport, and they have small concerts of Viennese music there in the evenings for those unwilling or unable to pay the top prices in the Musikvereinsaal.

Don't miss the fashionable Old Danube area, now cut off from the main river, and visit the Prater Park while you are out that way. Do sample the Viennese food, but beware of the gorgeous cakes and pastries in the coffee houses, or else forget your diet and enjoy them.

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