Yes, it is full of tourists and the waiting staff are just the acceptable side of rude, but what a location and the coffee (that is, if you drink proper coffee) is to die for. Seven euros for a Viennese breakfast - perfectly soft-boiled egg, as many rolls as I needed, ultra-fresh orange juice and that coffee! It was good value in Vienna.

Cafe Central
Ecke Herrengasse/Strauchgasse
1010-Wien
Tel: (+43.1) 533 37 64 - 26
Fax: (+43.1) 533 37 64 - 22
cafe.central@i-like-no-spam.palaisevents.at
www.palaisevents.at/cafecentral.html

Google map: tinyurl.com/lcnor4

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Europe's largest cemetery; beautifully laid out and well worth a visit. There are sections for the main denominations and a large military section.

There's a stunning domed church in the centre and after strolling past ornate graves of politicians you've never heard of a discreet sign points to the "Musiker" almost shyly hidden away.

Schubert, various members of the Strauss family and two big names beginning with B: took my breath away. Monument to Mozart, whose grave is mysteriously "lost" somewhere in the St Marx cemetery.

S-Bahn (tram) no. 71 to Zentralfriedhof
Official site: tinyurl.com/p4jrdn

Google map: tinyurl.com/nhmujw

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In Vienna, visit the amazing summer palace of the Habsburgs. The palace was built with the same architecture style of the Versailles in Paris.

Schönbrunner Schlossstrasse 47
Underground: U4 Schönbrunn
www.schoenbrunn.at/en/site/publicdir

Google map: tinyurl.com/qotqrb

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One of the places you must visit in Vienna is the Cathedral of St. Stephen's Cathedral or Stephansdom a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.

Stephansplatz 1 Vienna

Google map: tinyurl.com/ltou7w

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Fancy giving the Hapsburgs a bit of lip? Then, if your nerves are up to it, go to the creepiest crypt in Europe.

The Kapuzinergruft (Capuchins' Crypt) lies is in the depths of the Capuchins’ Church (also known as the Church of St Mary of the Angels) and contains the bodies of over 100 members of Austria’s former imperial family – the famously lippy and chinny Hapsburgs.

The administration of the building remains in the hands of the monks, so your visit gets off to a suitably spooky start as a heavily becowled figure emerges silently from behind a curtain to collect your entrance fee and, crooking a bony finger, leads you down to the stygian gloom of the crypt itself (OK – I might have seen too much Scooby Doo in my youth).

And there the whole gang are. Not buried, you understand, but just lying about in their coffins. Sarcophagi are arranged in neat rows as if the Hapsburgs are saying “we may be dead and our empire may have crumbled to nothingness – but we’re not about to let our standards slip”.

The most elaborate tomb belongs to Emperor Franz Josef (the one with the unfeasibly large whiskers who reigned for ages and died in the middle of the first world war). He is flanked by his wife, the Empress ‘Sissi’ and his son Rudolf – tragic principal in the notorious Mayerling affair. Round the corner is Empress Maria Theresa to whom Haydn dedicated a symphony and her son Emperor Josef II – the so-called ‘enlightened despot’ – whose own contribution to Vienna’s musical life was to lambast Mozart for producing “too many notes”. “What a despot!” Mozart was heard to remark (or something very like that).

It is more than a little macabre but visit the Hapsburg stiffs in the Capuchins’ Crypt – where history comes, um, alive.

Neue Markt Square

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The State Opera House. If you're too late to buy tickets for a performance, don't miss the opportunity to take a guided tour of this fascinating building. Bombed in world war two, it was rebuilt almost exactly as it was in the 19th-century.

Opernring 2. Nearest metro station: Karlsplatz. Nearest tram: Oper

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If the glorious architecture of the city centre starts to get a bit overwhelming, take a look at some of the word war two flak towers (Flakturm) dotted around town. The sheer brutality of these impressively ugly concrete monstrosities is enough to bring you back down to earth.

There are two fine examples at the Augarten, about 20 minutes' walk from the big wheel

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Spectacular palace and gardens. The journey to the top of the hill is rewarded by a fine cafe. The world's oldest zoo is here too, a great place to take the kids.

U-Bahn Schönbrunn

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A beautiful street that was built under the famous king Franz Joseph the first. It is situated around the inner city of Vienna and separates the city center from the other districts.
Many tourists visit the "Ringstraße" every day, to see the most important and historical buildings. The townhall of Vienna, the "Burgtheater", the parliament and many other buildings make the imperial times come alive.

Tram number 1 around "Ringstraße"

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The palace is the former home of the emperor of the Austrian empire, and is open to the public for guided tours. It is the grandest palace that I have ever seen, and a fine example of how Vienna used to be. In contrast to the faded grandeur of much of Vienna city centre, this palace has been restored to its full glory, and is a must on any visit to the city. The gardens by themselves are worth making the trip for and, unlike the guided tours, are free.

Take the U4 (green) underground line towards Hutteldorf. Alight at Schonbrunn station and follow the signs
Schloß Schönbrunn, 1130 Wien; Tel: +43-1-81113 0; www.schoenbrunn.at

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Visit the catacombs in St Stephen’s Cathedral, where the remains of over 11,000 people are kept. Just be warned - if you start taking pictures you get told off (but I still got a few). There’s no cost for walking around the cathedral. A must-see when visiting Vienna.

Stephansplatz 1, Vienna, Austria
tel: 515 52 3526
email: office@stephansdom.at;
Catacomb tour information: info.wien.at/article.asp?IDArticle=3108

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A must for any Klimt fan is the Klimt Villa, his last surviving studio.

Hidden in Wien-Hietzing, it is one of the creative centres of early 20th century art. Gustav Klimt (1862 - 1918), the main representative of Viennese art nouveau and co-founder of the Wiener Secession had his studio there during the last six years of his life. Only in summer 1998 was the existence of this studio undoubtedly proved, which led to the foundation of the Gustav Klimt Memorial Society. Soon after Klimt´s death, the original studio house was furnished with a second story and turned into a villa.

The Klimt Villa was declared as a protected zone in 1999, which was enlarged in 2000, but still has not been placed under protection like a historic monument. However, the original concept of the ensemble Klimt used - his studio, his reception room and the side rooms together with the adjacent garden and park - have survived nearly completely.

It must be pointed out that a great number of Klimt´s most important works were created in this studio. Here Klimt portrayed many ladies of society and finished painting some of his wonderful landscapes (especially Attersee motifs).

Feldmühlgasse 15a / Wittegasse;
Directions: Catch underground U4 to Unter St. Veit
or the 58 tram to Verbindungsbahn;
Admission: free, but donations are welcome;
opening times: check website (appointments may be necessary);
www.klimt.at

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