If you go to a Heuriger don't be surprised if you have to share a long table and bench with total strangers. This is the done thing and - Americans take note - if you try waiting for your own table you'll have a long wait and go thirsty.

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Though the guideboooks will steer you towards the Heuriger ('wine taverns') at Grinzing at the end of the 38 tram line don't go there as they are all full of tourists, busloads of 'em, and are not at all authentic. Head for the real thing in Stammersdorf or Jedlersdorf which are just on the edge of the Vienna public transport network on the S3 or out to Klosterneuburg from Heiligenstadt on the bus or by train from the Franz-Josefsbahnhof. Real Heuriger are tiny, only serve their own wine and food prepared by themselves. Usually much cheaper too.

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Bar in Vienna serving filled Fladenbrote (similar to pitta bread). The original one is in the Kleeblattgasse in the first district though there are now three in total. Walk up to the top of the Graben, turn right, walk along and you'll see the Kleeblattgasse which is a narrow little alley. Mixed clientèle, reasonable prices, dark with loud music. Fladen are great though.

Kleeblattgasse 1010 Wien, www.kolar-beisl.at

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Small typical Viennese Beisl in the 9th district. Dunno if it's still on the menu but I used to say I'd choose an endless supply of owner Herbert's Krautsuppe (cabbage soup) as my desert island discs luxury item. Now very popular with the nearby Wirtschaftsuniversität staff as he does an all you can eat buffet. So try and go at the weekend. Classic Viennese cuisine at its best

Reznicekgasse 10, 1090 Vienna, tel.: 0043 1 317 91 40, take the D tram towards Nußdorf and get off at Althanstrasse or Augasse

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Great local restaurant serving typical Viennese cuisine. Tardis-like in its dimensions it somehow sometimes manages to be full of tourists without seeming touristy. Excellent food, massive portions, really friendly staff. Gets busy so booking recommended if there's a few of you.

Riemergasse 10, 1010 Vienna, five mins walk from the Stefansdom down the Schülerstrasse from where the fiakers (horse-drawn carriages) wait, Tel.: 0043 1 512 6357

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Tiny little restaurant in 17th century vaulted cellars. The second best Bohemian kraut (cabbage) soup in the city (I'm keeping the best a secret) and great mixed (light and dark) beer. Always plays classical music. So hard to find that even a local policeman didn't know where it was but well worth the search.

Ledererhof 9, 1010 Vienna, www.brezlgwoelb.at, tel.: 0043 1 5338811

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