This museum is just the right size for an afternoon visit and includes some of the best Flemish 'primitives' I've seen. It includes a fabulous Eve by Cranach (better than the version in Florence) and a spectacular Judith.

For a drink return to the Grote Markt and look at the Town Hall. To your right on the corner of Wisselstraat there is a wooden floor and benches bar that is the best and friendliest in Antwerp.

Avoid the port at night unless you like a fight. Don't even think about the red light district. It is divided into sections according to race/nationality and is extremely violent - it makes Amsterdam's look like a children's playground.

Leopold de Waelsplaats

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A former army camp used by the Nazis to imprison and murder victims. Incredibly moving but fascinating place and reminds us that not all concentration camps were miles away in eastern Europe. Well worth a visit if you have the time and a car.

Approximately 15 miles south of Antwerp, off the A12 road to Brussels, near Willebroek

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The house Rubens had built for him, where he lived and worked for many years. Contains many artefacts and works associated with him and is itself of great architectural interest. A pity the visitors' centre had to be built right in front of the building, thus ruining the view of the place.

Wapper 9-11, Antwerpen Tel: 03/201.15.55 Website: museum.antwerpen.be/rubenshuis/index_eng.html

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