Belgium
In my vocabulary, Bruges means beer!
Start with a morning brewery tour, there are two within walking distance of the centre with free tastings! Then, head for lunch at one of the swanky restaurants by the fish market (go on splash out - you only live once) where you get a different beer with each course and even your own beer waiter!
Then head for one of the taverns near the Cathedral to try a Kwak or two, just for the glass it comes in (think chemical warfare and you'll get the idea). Then if you dare, try climbing the Belfort Bell tower for comic effect or sober up with a walk around the city walls or by sampling a chocolate or waffle or a chocolate waffle!
Finally, end the day sipping your favourite beer while eating mussels and watching the world go by at one of the many restaurants in the Markt Square. Perfect!
You cannot go to Bruges without trying out a few of the best Belgium beers at 't Brugs Beertje (Little Bear) bar - there are hundreds to choose from and they go very well with their "nibbling plate" of cheese, salami and pickles.
The bar staff can help you pick a suitable brew and they have fruit beers to try too. The morning after could include the hiring of a bike and a brisk cycle to Damme a few miles distant along the river, where a decent coffee or hot chocolate boosts you for the home leg.
Great old-fashioned beer cafe with brown walls, beer posters and two dimly lit, smoky rooms. Friendly staff and not really a tourist trap place. There are over 200 bottled beers on the menu, plus five draught beers. Brugse Zot is a good one to try.
't Brugs Beertje
Kemelstraat 5
8000 Brugge
www.brugsbeertje.be/
Two-storey pub/bar down a tiny cobbled side alley between the Markt and Burg squares (you'd be lucky to stumble across this if someone hadn't recommended it.) A medieval building with creaky, sloping floors, it actually feels like a place for locals rather than a tourist attraction. There are hundreds of beers on the menu, and tasty cubes of cheese to nibble on. Their housebeer is recommended, but watch the stairs after trying a few glasses of the 11% Brugse Tripel!
De Garre 1, Bruges
A bar and brasserie on Markt with helpful waiters who are only too happy to make beer recommendations for you - I tried a number of trappist ales here. It's on the west side of the square, and the few metres between it and the tourist-heavy row of bars and restaurants on the north side seems to keep it reasonably popular with locals. An ideal place for a good, convivial night out.
Markt 16
www.craenenburg.be
A tiny bar squeezed into an alley between Bruges's two main squares, Markt and Burg. Half a dozen tables downstairs and a few more in the equally cosy (non-smoking) upstairs bar - so don't be surprised if there's no room. The beer is excellent, including their own De Garre triple on tap and the tasty Brugse Zot local brew. Instead of the usual peanuts you get a small bowl of delicious cheese as a snack. The choice of beers is not as extensive as at the better-known Het Brugs Beertjes, but I preferred De Garre - it's friendlier, cleaner and feels more like a proper bar rather than a tourist attraction.
De Garre 1, on the right as you walk from Markt to Burg. Hard to spot until you are right on top of it.
Yep, this fantastic bar serves over 300 types of beer. A bit daunting but the beer menu allows you to choose by region, brewing style etc ... and if you're still unsure the bar staff are happy to recommend one.
Given the bar's excellent reputation it can get busy so you may find yourself squeezing onto a table or into a small standing space. Make the squeeze though, the beer and the atmosphere (a great place to chat, gossip, discuss and put the world to rights - in a friendly way - all fuelled by the marvellous beer) is well worth it!
Kemelstraat 5
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