This is a beautiful guesthouse which is really close to Brussels but in a beautiful countryside area, ideal for cycling and hiking.

The landlady, Caroline, was a very caring hostess and made our weekend perfect.

The prices are a real bargain.

Vlezembeek, 10km from Brussels at Bekersveldstraat 3.
Tel:00-32-2532462
mobile: 0032 476949118
www.bekersveld.be/
www.hotelara.com/travel/belgium/accommodation/brussels-accommodation.html

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The Union is a bohemian piratical bar in a bohemian, piratical area (St Gilles). It was originally the home of the Union of St Gilles football club (holders of the longest unbeaten record of any football club in Belgium) and now plays host to punks, hippies, and stoners of every description (although I wouldn't recommend lighting one up there, new Belgian legislation regarding cannabis notwithstanding).

The décor is composed of insane clowns, grinning pirates, a nice poster of Screamin’ Jay Hawkins and various other head toys that will both amuse and fascinate the casual observer. Some nice runework in the loos is representative of the anarchistic spirit of this counter-cultural icon.

St Gilles, the 'Parvis'; nearest tram stop: Parvis de St Gilles

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For 30 euros this is an essential piece of kit if you want to get a good feel for the city's culture. You can buy it from the tourism office on the Grand Place and it offers free entry to a number of museums, as well as discounts from restaurants (including Chez Leon) and shops.

The best bit, though, is the free 72-hour travelcard and route map that comes with it, which is invaluable, letting you travel on metro, tram and bus. The metro is fantastic - clean, airy, easy to follow and very quick, but the trams are best if you want to watch the way the landscape and architecture change as you travel through the different areas of the city.

Tourist Office, Grand Place; www.visitbelgium.com

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Everyone says that the best "frites" to be found in Brussels are at Maison Antoine on the Place Jourdan. I don't agree... they're overrated and you always have to queue for ages. Instead try the much less clichéd and much more tasty Frites Flagey at Place Flagey, just near to the hip Café Belga and the venue Flagey "factory of sound and images", a cinema and concert hall. Not only are the chips better, there is almost never a queue, there is service with a genuine smile (a rarity at Maison Antoine) and they are cheaper too!

Frites Flagey, Place Flagey
Tram 81, 82, stop Flagey

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The most famous place for chips in Brussels in Place Jourdan. A basic portion costs €1.70/1.90. You can add an assortment of sources and meats.

1 Place Jourdan, Quartier Europeen; Tel: +32 02 230 540 56; Nearest metro: Schuman

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Walking tours (lasting about three hours) around certain districts in Brussels. The tours give a fascinating insight into the city's distinctive wealth of art nouveau architecture, led by knowledgable and friendly guides. Lovely!

Visit www.arau.org/ct_home.php or get info from the tourist centre in the Grand Place

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This place has a really authentic Italian feel about it. There's no trendyness or pretentiousness like you find in other city centre Italian places, whose food generally turns out to be a big disappointment.

Here you can find the best pizzas north of Rome, served by a guy who would be more at home in a gladiator outfit, and the red-checked tablecloths and paintings of Italy on the walls tell you that he's probably a little bit homesick.

It's also relatively cheap, so it's a great spur-of-the-moment restaurant (you don't need to book). In 8 months of living in Brussels, this was my favourite restaurant by far.

Rue Jourdan 5, (just off the top of Avenue Louise)

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Well located next to the Parc Cinquantenaire. Double room costs €65.

24 Avenue de Tervueren; Tel: +32 2 733 0819; www.hotel-derby.be/

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