http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34627 For too long this historic bar had wallowed in its own smoky grime, trading on its reputation of years of epic chess matches, rumours of original tiled bathrooms, and its most famous customer, René Magritte. Coming back I’m astonished at the transformation: it’s almost too new, and so shiny that Magritte would probably not recognise it. It’s certainly no longer a place where I can imagine any scruffy artist at the window trying to sell paintings. I haven’t yet spotted any chess players, either.
It took a private Dutch investor and some regional subsidies to finally save this listed building from leaks and bring it up to modern standards. Sitting in here you feel like a drinker in the first class lounge on the Titanic. I’m told by one of the waiters that Magritte used to sit in the right hand window viewed from outside - in any case, that table is always occupied! Drink one - drink three - but I think the food is better elsewhere - best to head next door for that (or try one of the many other restaurants nearby).]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34627 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32084 Lenin, Hitler - all with brazen red lips and lacy fabric on their heads. Only Magritte’s head has an apple instead, “I thought that surrealism was already strange enough!” Chuckles Bucquoy. Moving over to take a closer look at one of the exhibits, I read the solemn notice:
“Please complete the aforementioned coupon and return it together with your pants.”
So here I am in Brussels’ anti-Museum of underpants, which has persisted in various locations since its creation in 1990, fanning the infamous reputation of its already infamous creator. Of course it’s an anti-museum because it doesn’t just represent dead things: the owners of some of the pants are very much alive! And for Bucquoy this is not art for art’s sake, it is reminding us that we all wear underpants, that we are all ... equal! Giggling aside, perhaps there’s some truth in the juxtaposition
of power and lace: stern portraits of Sarkozy, Clinton and de Gaulle all seem less intimidating with a pair of frilly ladies’ smalls on their head. And what of Bucquoy? “No, the Director doesn’t wear pants”, he says, mischievously.

This small sample of Bucquoy’s extensive collection is displayed in De Dolle Mol, a weathered Flemish bar re-opened after rising rents forced it to close; and now supported by the Flemish community, sometimes hosting musicians and cultural events. Linked to the liberation of women, the birth of the Flemish Amnesty International movement and the B-generation, this place has always been the home of dreamy revolutionaries and self-styled outlaws, and seems to be attracting fans from the school-age generation as well. On Thursday or Friday evenings you may even bump into Bucquoy.

21 May in Belgium used to be the day for Bucquoy’s mock “Coup d’état”. There’s no need for that at the moment, as Belgium has no elected government, no mandate for raising taxes, and for Bucquoy, things are working rather well. So his focus is on future projects: touring the Musée du Slip to New York or London; sending out another 1000 letters to solicit new exhibits; directing the second part
of his film “Camping Cosmos” (which will again feature Noël Godin, perhaps the original and most successful “entarteur” ever – cream pie throwing tormenter of public figures such as Bill Gates and Bernard-Henri Lévy). But, Bucquoy grins, “I always come back to the pants.”]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32084 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19455 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19455 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19454 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19454 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19451 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19451 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16820 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16820 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16109
Don’t bother with the slightly eccentric and haphazard metro system – just walk. Central Brussels is small enough to potter round in a day.

Aim for the splendid Place du Grand Sablon (where you can get the best chocolates in the world) then head downhill to La Bourse and Grand Place and west into the trendy St. Catherine and St. Géry areas.

Make sure you take in plenty of good food and drink along with the stunning Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings that populate so many streets.

The best thing about Bruxelles/Brussel and the bilingual-Belgians is that they know all this; they just don’t go shouting it from every corner of the Grand Place.

I can heartily recommend buying the finest cheeses, meats and bread, beer and chocolates from the above areas, getting back on the Eurostar and turning all the other passengers green with envy as you tuck-in. Brussels is nearer than Paris too!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16109 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16108
Stroll down Chausee d'Ixelles and back via Chausee de Wavre, investigating the shops and bars along the way. The contrast with the rest of the city is heightened by the fact that the area is not out in the suburbs but close to the city centre.

Just the other side of the metro station are the antique shops and grand buildings of the Upper Town.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16108 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16103
Founded by Italian magnate Francesco Cirio in 1903 it remains much as it was a hundred years ago - dark wooded panels, marble and shining brass.

Be sure to try the house speciality of a “Half and Half” - equal measures of champagne and white wine filled to the brim by bustling ultra efficient waiters.

Say hello to the cat “Minou” (French for “Kitty”) and lastly don’t forget to visit the magnificent turn-of-the-century toilets!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16103 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16102
Not so big and overwhelming, with so many "must sees," as Paris, but more than enough to keep you busy.

And there is loads of great chocolate - need I say more?

Don't miss MIM, with more than 1,000 ancient and rare instruments from around the world.

There is a lovely cafe overlooking the city on the top floor.

The best place we've found to stay with kids: Novotel Centre/Tour Noire. It has a cool hammam/indoor swimming pool surrounded by rocks which creates a very cool atmosphere. It is walking distance to Grand Place, also to many waterside restaurants and off-the-beaten path neighborhood places and playgrounds, good ethnic restaurants nearby, easy access to train station.

If you have more than a weekend, take a day trip to Bruges, Antwerp, or any other place in Belgium: distances are short!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16102 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16100
It’s perfect for a delicious tapas style seafood lunch particularly if you are on a tight schedule, it’s also excellent value: small glass of Muscadet €2 (we had several).]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16100 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16098
Pick up a priceless rarity you never knew you needed, meet the locals and exhaust your euros surrounded by classic Belgian architecture, the shouts of stallholders and a unique, animated atmosphere.

Of course, when you can haggle no more, you can collapse at a local café with a glass of red and some sumptuous Belgian food.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16098 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16096
This bar has a superb selection of beers, which are reasonably priced, and is frequented by locals rather than being a typical tourist trap.

The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed and it's an ideal place to meet up with friends for a good natter.

If that isn't enough, last time I went there an opera singer started to sing, with the whole bar joining in. Beer, opera and conversation - perfect!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16096 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16095
It's a great cosmopolitan bar, with a very nice atmosphere, it's not too expensive, and it serves lots of good Belgian beers (try my favourite... Faro.) and great food.

Plus it has a nice terrace , so it's perfect for warm days!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16095 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16092
Have your last drink at Au Laboureur close to the Gare du Midi.

And in between use the CAMRA Good Beer Guide to Belgium by Tim Webb to find your way round Brussels.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16092 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16087 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16087 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16074
It's like a small, tight ground where you get really close to the action and the home fans generate a great atmosphere.

And be sure to enjoy a pre (and post) match pint of Hoegaarden in one of the many bars around the ground.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16074 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16070 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16070 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16068
One of Europe’s oldest university towns, a short hop from Brussels by train, it offers grand architecture alongside quiet gardens, café-lined squares, great shopping and a slower pace of life.

Try out Café De Werf, (for the best breakfast you’ll have anywhere), or nearby Domus, boasting an on-site brewery alongside many other Belgian beers and fine Flemish food.

The peaceful Begijnhof and botanical gardens are not to be missed, and on Saturday mornings the artisans’ food market is a must.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16068 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16067
The name comes from a game they used to play called 421. Back in the day, employees of a local bank would while away their lunch hours playing 421 – and the loser, of course, was “sudden death” itself.

The room is enormous yet somehow each table provides intimacy (away from those crowds). As in a relaxed community of little tables holding hands.

Order a plate of cheese, salami and pickles and slosh back a fruity beer. Perfect when Brussels turns dark. The light in there is almost golden.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16067