Ghent is the third largest city in Belgium and the capital of East Flanders. Genters have a tradition of rebellion and still pride themselves as being willfully different to everyone else in Belgium. Witness the City declaring itself independent from Belgium a year or two back in protest at the ongoing row between Flanders and French speaking Wallonia and the debate around separation. That was an officially sponsored April 1st hoax, complete with a 7,000 strong demo and pan European TV news coverage which completely freaked out the rest of the country, particularly the King.

Getting there from Brussels or Brugge is a piece of cake - there's train to Gent St Pieters roughly every twenty minutes and it takes half an hour or less. The best way from the station to the Centrum is by tram. Once you're there, get a free map from your digs or the tourist office.

The place seems at first like a grimy version of Bruges as you'll note when you're on the tram and pootle up through the authentically seedy student area. However, once you emerge by St Niklaas you'll see what the fuss is about. Next to St Nik's you get the Belfort with the dragon on top then St Baaf's Cathedral with its staggering Van Eyke altarpiece, (sadly not kept on the altar - they charge you around euro1 to see it.)

Then you have the very splendid Kornleiand Graslei on either side of the river with some well restored C17th Guildhouses and the much older Vleesmarkt. Just across the river from the Vleeshuis is The Castle Of The Counts. Best described as a gentleman tyrant's bijou town castle it has a fine display of torture implements. There is a thriving music and cultural scene with two first class art galleries and excellent night life. There are plenty of other things to see so just go ahead and stumble over them.

Food and drink is everywhere. I think there are over 250 restaurants and countless cafes and bars. Food varies from cheap and cheerful to Michelin star standard. Most cafes and restaurants will have a beer list of at least 10. Best areas for restaurants are Paterhof, the network of little streets near the Gravensteen, Vrijdag Markt, (for lunch and people watching) and Vlanderenstraat. If you're feeling flush, try the Belga Queen on Grasslei for a gastropub experience to die for, (as you may well do when you see the bill - two courses euro 40 upwards). There are at least a dozen specialist beer cafes with menus up to 200 strong, virtually all within easy walking distance of each other and many other fine places each with their own individual character.