Down by the river and the life-and-death archery ground, the market is alive with the aroma of dried or fresh produce, animals, abundant chillies and every sort of herb, fruit and vegetable. Colourful locals and stallholders pass the day chatting and choosing the ingredients to go with the obligatory chillies. Monks try out bones fashioned into wind instruments and traditional masks conjure up holy spirits.

Central Thimphu down the hill to the riverside.

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