Hidden behind the imposing National Museum, the Historical Museum in Sarajevo is a deeply moving, eye opening and inspiring experience. Documenting the atrocities of the Bosnian war with a touchingly impartial pathos, the simple yet affecting exhibition stopped me in my tracks and the hours spent at the museum will stay with me. For someone born in 1990, the images, artefacts and written accounts of the conflict brought home the reality that these horrors occurred within my lifetime. When this is combined with the ubiquitous scars of war which cover the country, the humility and compassion of the Bosnian people in the aftermath of their recent tragic history is all the more striking. Among young people in the UK not enough is known about this conflict and I can think of no more essential starting point than the Historical Museum in Sarajevo.

www.muzej.ba/
Zmaja od Bosne 5, 71 000, Sarajevo
+387 33 226 098

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The Garni Hotel Konak is situated on the edge of the old town with easy access by taxi (10 Bosnian Marks from the bus station). It is very clean and modern with extremely helpful, friendly and pleasant staff. A few metres away on the opposite side of the road is Sartours, an excellent, highly informative (they are very passionate about their city) and inexpensive family run tour guide agency. We had an excellent 20th century tour in their own car.

www.hotel-konak.com
Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 54, 71 000 Sarajevo
+387(0)33476900
Google map: bit.ly/lb8l6K

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The tours (especially war tours) are really done in the interesting way with these guys. We did the Sarajevo War Tunnel Tour, which was really interesting with quite a lot to see. An interesting detail was a video they play in the car on the ride towards the tunnel so it enables you to see some interesting streets and corners in Sarajevo during the siege.
Recommended.

sarajevofunkytours.com/

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Skakavac Waterfall is the highest waterfall in Balkans (98m), and is only 12km from Sarajevo.
It is the perfect opportunity for a day hike. Start by taking public transport (Minibus 69, from Sutjeska Street) then it's an easy hike for about two and a half hours.
Just follow the main road and signs saying Skakavac and enjoy the beautiful forests, views, clean water, and the Waterfall at the end.

www.visitsarajevo.ba/maps-guides/around-sarajevo/mountains/skakavac-waterfall

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Sarajevo is famous for its old town and lively cafe culture but you're never far away from the mountains and Barice offers one of the most rewarding weekend morning excursions. Located just a few miles outside of the city, the pastures provide a fantastic view through the valley and over the capital. On arriving in Barice, after a steep, coiled ascent, you'll find a hikers' hut with benches outside. Fare is simple but the welcome is roaring. Try a Bosnian coffee, some slivovica (local brandy) or the 'ustipci sa kajmakom', savoury donuts with local goats' cheese. And, if you're feeling ambitious after all this, there are hiking trails from Čavljak up to Bukovik and Crepoljsko.

The best way to get to Barice is by car or taxi. While hiking is possible in the area, the very real danger of landmines means that you should only be off road with an experienced local guide and on the marked hiking paths.

From Sarajevo, start in 'Hrastovi' area of town and look for the street 'Osmana Nakasa'. This road leads into a street called 'Put za Barice' (which means 'Way to Barice') and this will bring you to the hikers' hut.

www.navigator.ba/maps/sarajevo/dispmap.php

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It is a Bosnian dish of grilled spiced mince meat sausages stuffed in a flatbread served with chopped onions. It is found all over the Balkans but I had the best ones in Sarajevo.

Any café in the Baščaršija area.

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A handful of rooms tucked behind the tourist agency in the old town square of the Turkish quarter, this place is small enough to feel like you're joining a family for a few days.
The war tour the hostel operates is a must (if not to be taken with a pinch of salt) and helps you truly understand the importance of the place.
The setting of the hostel is great, with a bakery next door and the markets and cafes sprawling off the square all close by.
The guests enrich themselves during the day and enjoy themselves in the evening - the hill behind the hostel, where the final scene of ‘Welcome to Sarajevo’ was filmed is a great spot for some alfresco rakia drinking.

www.hostelljubicica.net/

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