Beyond Rio’s beaches
Tom Moore
The former capital city of the state of Minas Gerais, Ouro Preto (Black Gold) had rich gold mines which not only lined the Portugese coffers during colonial times but also meant that the many Baroque churches dotting its steep hillsides are lavishly decorated, garnering Unesco Cultural Heritage status. The hills also meant that there was no space to expand in Minas and so a new capital city was planned, inaugurated as Cidade de Minas (Minas City) in 1897. Its name was changed to Belo Horizonte (Beautiful Horizon) in 1901. Ouro Preto and its colonial and 19th century architecture was left relatively unscathed and nowadays there is a sizeable population of university students, often dining at the numerous good restaurants concentrated on the street heading downhill from the central square, Praca Tiradentes. Plan at least two days to try to see most, if not all, of the city's churches, particularly the spectacular Igreja do Pilar in the lower part of the city. Everything is within comfortable walking distance and strong legs and hardy shoes are desirable. Ouro Preto is one hour by frequent bus from Belo Horizonte or seven hours from Rio de Janeiro on a daily overnight bus.