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Carnival, Rio de Janeiro
Photo: Renzo Gostoli/AP

The beach rules
Wherever you look in Rio the beauty is mesmerising. No other city has landscape as audacious – mountains of rainforest, enormous granite rocks hundreds of metres high, a heart-shaped lagoon and the perfectly crescented beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Even the favela shantytowns, high on the hills, twinkle at night like Christmas lights. The Cariocas – as the locals are known – are gorgeous too. No other Brazilian city is as racially mixed, and the streets and beaches are a catwalk parade of every possible colour, size and shape (usually fitted into tight and tiny swimwear).

Because the beaches dictate the pace of life, there is a wonderful – if sometimes frustrating for us Europeans – informality and spontenaiety. You never plan – you just do. The climate means that you can be outdoors all the year round – for a walk through rainforest, for a parapent over São Conrado or for just a lie on the beach. When the sun sets a different side of the city opens up. There is a music scene you would expect – samba played in bars into the early hours – but you will be surprised at how well you can eat here.

From the juice bars that stock fruits you have never heard of to the churrasco all-you-can-eat barbecues – where each cut of meat has its own waiter - Rio’s restaurants are full of exotic, lipsmacking tastes. (And incredibly cheap too.) This is a city that pleasures all the senses.
Best view
Corcovado
God may have eyes everywhere, but in Rio Jesus has the best view. The Christ statue sits atop Corcovado hill, a dramatic granite plinth that towers 710m above the city. From here you can see Rio in all its glory – from the southern beaches to the northern suburbs and from the city centre across the bay to Niteroi.

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Best thing to do for free
Arpoador Inn
Of all the many budget places this always wins out because of its seafront location.

Rua Francisco Otaviano 177; Tel: 021 2523 0060

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Where to watch the world go by
The beaches of the South Zone on a Sunday
Which is to say, anywhere along Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon. On Sundays the coast road that joins them all is pedestrianised and it seems that the whole city comes out to walk. The beach – because it is free – is the most democratic area of Rio and you see all social classes and ages.

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Nighttime hangout
Rio Scenarium
Situated in a large 19th-century building and decorated with Brazilian exotica – as well as a bar and concert venue, it is the main props house for the local film and theatre industry – this is where you come to soak up Rio’s bohemian past. In the evenings - from Tuesday to Saturday – it is the best local showcase of traditional music, such as samba, forró and chorinho.

Rua do Lavradio 20; Tel: 3852-5516; www.rioscenarium.com.br/

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Cultural highlight
Palácio da Ilha Fiscal
This is a neo-gothic castle that was built in the bay to monitor the boats coming in and out, although it is most famous for being the venue of the last Imperial Ball before Brazil became a republic in 1889. It now holds exhibitions about its history.

Avenida Alfredo Agache, Praça Quinze; Tel: 2104 6721

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Bring back
Caipirinha pestle
To make a proper caipirinha cocktail you need a pestle to crush the lemon. So as not to use the garlic or cumin-stained pestle you have at home, it’s a good idea to pick up a wooden pestle from the Hippy Fair in Praça General Osório on Sundays. They are only a few reais and come with different hand-painted handles.

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Leave there
Stuffed piranhas
Firstly, these piranhas – that come with their own wooden stands – are menacing and desperately ugly to look at. Secondly, they don’t come from Rio. They come from the Amazon – almost 2,000 miles away.

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Time for love
VIP’s Motel
They are called “motels”, but this is a euphemism – they are places where you go to have sex and pay by the hour. I first thought they were sleazy, but that was before I went to one. In fact, they are frequented as much by married couples as they are by illicit lovers and can be as romantic as you want them to be. At the top end, like at VIP’s Motel, the rooms have a wonderful ocean view, a pool, sauna and jacuzzi, as well as disco lights, sound system, TV, mirrors on the walls and ceiling and a large room service menu.

Avenida Niemeyer, 418, Leblon; Tel: 21-3322 5868 or 21- 3322 1433; www.vipsmotel.com.br/

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Best-kept secret (till now)
Joatinga beach
All of Rio’s beaches tend to get packed – except the small, idyllic Joatinga beach, which feels like you could be on a deserted island. Locals go there on weekends, so if you turn up on a weekday you will be one of the only people there.

The only way of getting there is in a cab – and you need to check he knows exactly how to get there. It’s at the end of the Estrada de Joá and through a private condominium, where there is a precarious trail down to the beach.

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The thing to eat
Açai
At the juice bars that line the beach, the most popular choice is açaí. It is the purple fruit of an Amazonian palm, and is served as a frozed slush mixed with banana, guaraná and – often – granola. The taste is unusual, like a chocolate-blueberry sorbet with a mildly medicinal aftertaste. Its high levels of antioxidants make it a “superfood” and it also gives you energy and (apparently) sex drive.

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Green space
Botanical Gardens
Lined by 40m-high royal palms, the Jardim Botanico is a haven of peace and tranquillity in this noisy, bustling city. It was founded in 1808 as a nursery for European specimens and is full of rare bromeliads, orchids and cacti. There are monkeys in the trees and I once spotted a sloth on a wall.

Rua Jardim Botanico, 1008; Tel: 274 48 98; Open: 8am-5pm, Tues-Sun; www.jbrj.gov.br/

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Best ride
The Santa Teresa Tram
Before Rio’s rich started to live in gated towerblocks, they built wonderful mansions in Santa Teresa – a hilly area near the city centre. To travel through Santa Teresa take the “bondinho” or tram – a rickety yellow metal carriage that winds its way up to the beginning of the rainforest.

Take the metro to Cinelandia Station, go to Rua Senador Dantas, then walk along to Rua Profesor Lelio Gama – the tram station is on this street. Price: US$0.40

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Keep the kids happy
Lagoa
The Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon at the back of Ipanema has a cycle-path and a park around its perimeter. There are kiosks serving food and you can rent pedalos, bikes for kids and on weekends have a go on an elasticated harness.

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Escape the crowds
Don’t try to escape the crowds
You don’t really want to escape the crowds in Rio. To avoid the chances of getting mugged, try to always be around people.

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The film to see before I go
City of God
This film about drug wars in the shantytowns isn’t exactly sponsored by the tourist board. Yet it gives a great insight into why Rio is like it is – a question you will ask when you see the vast favelas on the cab ride in from the airport. The energy, music and visual splendour of the film exude the flavour of the city.

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... and the novel to read
The Posthumous Memoirs of Bras Cubas
(Also translated as Epitaph of a Small Winner.) Or anything else by Machado de Assis, Brazil’s greatest novelist. He wrote at the end of the 19th century, when Rio was the capital of a newly declared republic. His prose is so witty and insightful it’s an absolute delight to read.

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Where to eat (budget)
Any restaurant that says ‘a kilo’
A great Brazilian invention is the restaurant where you pay by weight. There are hundreds of these throughout the city and many of them are really good: you go to the buffet, and pile up the plate with salads, barbecued meats and cooked dishes. At the end you weigh your plate – and pay for what you have served yourself. Its unlikely to be more than 20Br$, or £5 for a sizeable feast.

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Where to eat (moderate)
Zazá Bistro
In the last few years there has been a boom in nouvelle Brazilian cuisine – it’s very like Pacific rim, but with local fruits and adaptations of traditional dishes. One of the first – and with a great interior – is Zazá, which is a block from Ipanema beach.

Rua Joana Anglélica 40, Ipanema; Tel: 021 2247 9101; www.zazabistro.com.br/

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Where to eat (posh)
Gero
The best restaurants in Brazil are in São Paulo, a city of Italian immigrants, and the owner of the best restaurant in São Paulo recently opened this outlet in Rio. It’s where Rio’s celebrities hang out. When they’re not checking each other out they are eating sophisticated Italian food that wouldn’t be out of place in top-of-the-range Milan.

Rua Anibal de Mendonça 157, Ipanema; Tel: 021 2239 8158; www.fasano.com.br/

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Where to stay (budget)
Arpoador Inn
Of all the many budget places this always wins out because of its seafront location.

Rua Francisco Otaviano 177; Tel: 021 2523 0060

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Where to stay (moderate)
Ouro Verde
I like this hotel because it DOESN’T have a pool, restaurant and gym. Which means it’s not full of groups of tourists. It is in a great art deco building with original fittings and falling into disrepair in a charming way. For the location – right by the Copacabana Palace – the prices are very reasonable.

Avenida Atlântica 1456; Tel: 021 3332 5000; www.dayrell.com.br/ouroverde/gouro.htm

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Where to stay (posh)
Copacabana Palace
Modelled on the Carlton in Cannes, this is the location that gave Rio its glamour in the 1950s. Even if you don’t stay here its worth coming for a caipirinha by the pool.

Avenida Atlântica 1702; Tel: 021 2548 7070; www.copacabanapalace.com.br/

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Find out what's on
Veja Rio
News weekly magazine Veja has a supplement 'Veja Rio' with listings, as do local papers Jornal do Brasil and O Globo on Fridays.

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Get there from the airport
Airport transfer: Taxi
Rio's State Tourism Authority has a desk at the airport where prepaid taxi vouchers can be purchased. Travelling in metered or unofficial cabs is not recommended. An hourly shuttle bus is also available which stops at key hotels on its route into the city.

www.infraero.gov.br

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