A cultural centre in the majestic building of the Bank of Brazil (built 1880), on Av. Presidente Vargas in the centre. Excellent offerings in theatre, music and the visual arts.

CCBB Rio: Rua Primeiro de Março, 66, Centro, Rio de Janeiro - walking distance from the Uruguaiana stop on the Metro;
tel: (21) 3808 2020
Open: Tues-Sun, 10am-9pm;
www.bb.com.br/cultura

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Jesus may have the best view of Rio, but the best vista of the City of Marvels - taking in Christo Redentor and the Sugarloaf - is to be had from the curvy entrance ramp to this early 90s masterpiece by Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Across Guanabara Bay in Niteroi, depending on your sensibilities, the building looks like a morning glory blossoming in the sun or an alien spaceship perching on a promontory. Inside, its spiralling galleries and curvy walls are incredibly inviting, and the panoramic blue-on-blue view from the observation level is matchless.

Needless to say, none of the art on show can hold a candle to the structure itself.

Mirante da Boa Viagem, Niterói; www.macniteroi.com/

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This is a very cheap (approx $0.25) and exciting tram service that starts just beyond the white viaduct arches of Lapa and winds its way up into the hills around the glorious Cristo, into the area known as Santa Teresa, and is the last remaining tram service in South America.

Jump on and buzz through the scenic backstreets as schoolchildren jump on and off for free in an excited frenzy. Its a great journey which takes about thirty minutes from bottom to top and shows you the very best of the old Rio. At the top you can take the walk back down via craft and antique shops, wonderful little eateries, museums and the occasional art exhibition.

Truly a magnificent mini trip to fill an afternoon away from the beaches, amongst the true and vibrant spirit of Rio, with the added bonus of some of the best views of the city.

Estação Carioca is found near the city centre opposite the Petrobras Building. It is a bit tough to find but persist and it will pay off.

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