I thought long and hard about going on the tour of Rocinha, Rio's largest favela or shanty town. The voyeristic and danger sides to it did not appeal but after speaking with others that had been on the tour I was ready to see the unique kind of city dwelling made famous in the movie 'City of God'. The tour started on the back of a motorbike, racing up one of the only streets in a huge favela, where house upon house is built, up the jungle-covered mountain. At the top we slowly walked down through the tiny passageways, stopping to visit an artists' studio, a kids' day-care centre and some friendly locals who were learning about the politics and laws of living in a place where police and rubbish-disposal removers rarely enter.

The favela was far from scary and we realized that it is truely a city within a city, home to some 300,000 of Rio's citizens most of whom are not teenage drug gangs, although we did see some members armed with gold-plated guns which was a little too close for comfort. Overall the tour company was highly sensitive and respectful to the residents' privacy. It operated what could potentially be a dangerous and non-PC tour in such a way as to show the real side to daily life in the favela, complete with internet cafes and supermarkets. The company, 'Be a Local', also takes tourists to Rio's amazing Baile Funk parties - like their own home grown grime scene but with more smiles and bass.

Rocinha Favela Tour, Rio de Janeiro. Recommended tour company: www.bealocal.com phone: +55.21.9643-0366

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Before Rio’s rich started to live in gated towerblocks, they built wonderful mansions in Santa Teresa – a hilly area near the city centre. To travel through Santa Teresa take the “bondinho” or tram – a rickety yellow metal carriage that winds its way up to the beginning of the rainforest.

Take the metro to Cinelandia Station, go to Rua Senador Dantas, then walk along to Rua Profesor Lelio Gama – the tram station is on this street. Price: US$0.40

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