Brazil
This is a lovely little area of Rio. Catch the bonde up the hillside and wander through the streets or sit a while in a cafe. It is an area which has been taken over by hippies and artists and is definitely on the up again. Lovely architecture.
Take the bonde up the hill.
We had a trememndous stay at this B&B in a 'real' neighbourhood. The energetic owners are qualified city guides and they completely transformed our holiday. They regularly organise all kinds of tailor-made itineries at very reasonable prices, from hiking in the forest to beach trips and city/cultural tours. Amazing.
10-15 minute walk from Botafogo beach
Tel: 55 21 2554 8980
www.oveleiro.com
You can take a cab or just walk into the forest in Horto to get away from the city for a while. Within minutes you see monkeys and waterfalls, and are surrounded by serene and peaceful forest.
You can take Pacheco Leão up into the forest from Jardim Botanico. I didn't have a car when I was in Rio, and this is convenient to get to by public transport or on foot. From Leblon or Ipamena you can take the Horto bus straight there.
Arpoador is the area where the neighbourhoods of Ipanema and Copacabana meet. The coastline becomes a rocky promontory and you can walk along trails here. The jagged geography creates high swells in the sea, so this is where surfers come, and you can sit and watch them ride the waves.
The light in Rio is spectacular, especially on the beach. Take a walk from Arpaodor to Leblon which takes about 45 minutes. Do this when the sun sets. It sets just behind the Dois Hermanos (two brothers) and the light is light blue/pink most of the time. The sound of the waves, people and Ipanema to your right make this a very special walk and keeps you fit. In the morning the sun comes up from Copacabana, so a walk from Arpoador - do check out the fish market - towards the Copacaban Palace is lovely too. Locals doing morning exercise, fishing boats coming back. I want to be there now!
Arpoador>Leblon Arpoador>Copacabana
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
Your tips about Rio de Janeiro