- Salvador
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Brazil
I see Porto da Barra has once again made it onto the Best Beaches list. There’s a lot that’s fun about this beach – the communal spirit, the song of the gambas sellers, the five minutes of madness before the sun goes down – but it also has a dark side. As I watched the sun set I was accosted on this beach by a man with a blonde afro who grabbed my leg, held it under his arm in a vice-like grip and dug his fingernails in for several minutes. When he finally let me go he claimed I owed him money for reflexology. I had only the money for the deckchair on me, which the vendors don’t collect till the evening so they are not robbed. Foolhardy it might have been, but I felt the deckchair man deserved my money more than this conman and also that these deckchair men could somehow protect me. They blanched when they saw this guy. He threw some capoeira moves and asked me to take him to my apartment and give him money. I went instead to the hotel that had rented me the apartment, rang the doorbell, the hotel manager pulled me, slammed the door and said “That guy’s really dangerous. He just got out of jail for raping and beating up a girl.” When the sun goes down, which happens really suddenly and very early, the streets empty and you see the deckchair men and snack sellers literally running to safety. Though my last image of Barra was the beautiful, poignant silhouette of people throwing flowers into the sea to protest against the murder of a gay journalist, I never want to see this beach again. My 40th birthday was spent prisoner in my apartment with Mr Reflexology waiting outside and he dogged me for days.
Salvador de Bahia
As the door of the room swung open, there it was. The bed. The most enormous bed I've ever seen. Forget the Pelourinho, forget Salvador, forget Brazil even. I just wanted the bed. It was delicious. A great plain of white sheets. I didn't see my boyfriend all night.
To be fair, I was sold on the hotel just with the image of that bed. Yes, there was a pool, and it was in the heart of the Pelourinho, and you could have breakfast at any time. Any time. Four in the afternoon if you so desired. But the bed. There was nowhere else to go. I don't have a bed fetish (well actually I sort of do, is anywhere finer?) but I had slept for two months on the worst mattress, it was as effective as putting a yoga mat on pallets. I'm sure its limp foam still holds the imprint of my discomfort.
Casa do Amarelindo is a French owned boutique hotel, right in the Pelourinho of Salvador. The Pelourinho is the 'old district' of Salvador, now a World Heritage site. It's goes for all your senses - the sounds of samba and bossa nova, the smell of fresh oranges and sandalwood, the coloured colonial houses, the cobbled streets and squares accommodating street peddlers and capoeiristas... it's a fascinating city. You can still breath the dark history of colonial Brazil and its murky past of slavery, but also feel the culture that was ignited as a result of the European and African fusion. The music, dance, religion and food of Salvador are all products of this meeting of cultures.
Casa do Amarelindo is a perfect boutique B&B. It is in keeping with the colonial style, but benefiting from the elegance of it's French owners. It has a fantastic restaurant, two terraces, a small pool (you will need this, even in winter Salvador is hot) and most rooms have a view over the bay. The bay of Salvador is more industrial than the word 'bay' evokes (don't go imagining the Mediterranean riviera) but the view is still impressive.
The rooms are all spacious, not all have the immense bed, you'll have to ask for it! The French owners are delightful, they've really sunk in to Salvador, embracing it, whilst bringing their European standards to the table. They have an instinct for what guests want - hence the all day breakfast offer and the ability to have breakfast wherever you want in the hotel. Also they have double glazing - which you need in the Pelourinho, the music doesn't stop. These touches really make it stand out.
The staff are really wonderful - genuinely kind, always happy to go that little bit further for you. Many of them were involved in the initial construction of the hotel.
Condor Airlines do good cheap rates to Salvador, via Germany, so get onto it. Within hours you could be by the pool, sipping caipirinha, eating gorgonzola and banana toasts, listening to the rhythms of Gilberto Gil. Then you, or two of you, or even three of you, can sleep like octopuses.
Travel Box is a travel items store that carries everything a traveller needs; maps, travel guides, luggage, tech stuch, first aid kits, personal care items, plug adaptors etc.
English spoken (a plus for Salvador) and very friendly staff.
They also sell a bus pass for a city tour "Salvador Bus". You must check this store out!
Rua Marquês de Caravelas, 148 - lj 3
Barra, Salvador
Tel: +55(71)3264-6793
www.travelbox.com.br
contato@travelbox.com.br
Infectious African beats bounce out of this warm, welcoming restaurant and bar in the historic Pelourinho district of Salvador. Inside the restaurant is bathed in rich hues and draped with native fabrics, masks, paintings and a slew of African masks. The beautiful original brick walls area a fitting canvas for the vibrant artworks. By night this is a bar/live music spot where salsa, zouk, kuduru, kizomba, semba, reggae, samba, axe and other beats hold sway. The propietor, DJ Sankofa is quite a character and when he plays he amps up the audience to great effect. By day this spot serves up sumptuous African and Bahian food. Here you can find jollof rice, pepper soup, peanut sauce, curry sauce, coconot sauce served with rice, yam, cassava or African rice and peas. Bahian Moqueqa and Africa Moqueqa stews are also served up. My favorite dishes were the jollof rice and plantains and the peanut sauce with fish. While waiting for your food you can head upstairs to relax in the hammock and watch a film on the audio visual system or check out the huge African map and see you if you recognize all the countries.
www.sankofabrasil.com
Rua 7, Frei Vicente
Pelourinho
Salvador, Bahia
71 3321 7236
A pousada in Pelourinho (very picturesque, in the old part of town, and it has great nightlife). Good value, great atmosphere, very friendly owners who can can advise you about Salvador and elsewhere in Brazil and book travel etc for you. Good breakfast. Free internet/coffee/use of kitchen and washing machine.
A friendly pousada near the beach in the coastal suburb of Barra. 1/2 hour free internet a day. Great breakfast. Washing done for you. Friendly staff.
+55 71 3264 9798
info@pousadaazul.com.br
www.pousadaazul.com.br
The most fantastic beach in Salvador. It is crammed with people. Vendors sell you anything from a cold drink, to clothes to oysters. A must is the roasted cheese with oregano though. This is not a beach to take a book to, there is just too much going on that you have to sit back and watch the world go by and wonder at it all!
Much more real and fun than the Pelourinho.
Barra, a coastal suburb of Salvador
A small eco village north of Salvador. Local bus, about an hour, up the road from Praia de Forte (Tamar turtle project) with a river running alongside the beach, which has a few barracas for cheap food and drinks. A wonderful place.
Morro de Sao Paolo is good too! Stayed in a great place on second beach. Fourth beach is the best, it's got a great Tahitian-style cafe there.
This little town on a beautiful island off the coast of Salvador is a must. No cars. The taxis for luggage only are wheelbarrows.
Connected to Salvador by catamaran service or by small prop plane (max 12Kg weight limit). The beaches are fabulous. The second beach is full of bars, surfers and chilled beach goers who like to party late into the night. I'd recommend taking a pousada on the third beach. The bars along here serve excellent caipirinha at about R$2!
In the centre of town you can find food to suit all tastes and budgets along the sandy main street. Be fluid with onward travel plans - you may just add a few days to your stay here on this lovely island getaway!
Morro de São Paulo
Tinharé Island - Bahia
Info: www.morrodesaopaulo.com.br
Lencois is, to all intents and purposes, the hub of the Chapada Diamantina highlands. It is a sleepy (for now, at least) town which is reached from Salvador da Bahia in around six hours bus ride. From there, you can arrange day excursions on walks and/or to places of astounding beauty, including grottoes and caves some of which allow visitors to snorkel in, as well as longer treks through the hills to the 'Fumaca' Falls (pronounced 'Foo-Massa' = 'Smoke').
The town itself is a wonderfully relaxed place to go to either after the tropical buzz of Salvador or, if you're coming in from Brasilia or another place in the interior, it's a great point to stop off before hitting Bahia's state capital. One of the walks to Fumaca allows walkers to stop at the 'Escorregadeira', an exhilarating natural rock waterslide which may or may not make your local osteopath a few quid in years to come, as well as some stunning pools that precede an under-reported classic experience of travel in Brazil: showering under a waterfall.
The land is known as Chapada Diamantina because it used to be a hunting ground for diamonds. The boom is over, with eco-tourism now a main source of wealth for the region; diamonds aren't forever, but my memories of walking up to Fumaca will be with me for a lot longer.
Bahia state, six hours inland.
A hostel-oasis bit of accommodation on the tropical island of Itaparica, near Salvador in the Bahia region of Brazil. It used to be run by two lovely guys, one who worked as a surgeon and the other a teacher. Both welcoming and thoughtful.
It's a beautifully vivid and tranquil place, bright colours, lots of areas to choose from to read, converse,write, sleep, swim.
Has native landscaping, and electricity run via solar energy. The most beautiful and luminous place I've stayed in. It used to be hard to track down, phoning ahead probably best.
Loteamento Outeiro Gabão, Qd B, Lote 23 - Bom Despacho;
tel: 71 3681 1361/1360;
email: paramita@terra.com.br
Is this your business?Search Been there
