Arriving two hours late on the overnight sleeper from Istanbul, after five separate stops for checks by Turkish then Bulgarian border police in the middle of the night, it was bliss to find this cafe. With its worn squashy leather sofas surrounded by a sculpture garden, and a warm unhurried atmosphere, it provided the best hot chocolate I have ever had - pure, smooth, rich, dark nectar which lifted the spirts on a cold, grey October day. The art gallery was not very memorable, the hot chocolate was.

www.nationalartgallerybg.org
1 Prince Alexander Square, Sofia
+359 2 9800093
Google map: bit.ly/VOv8QC

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A nice restaurant in the heart of Sofia, very close to the main landscapes. It is interesting with the ancient Roman wall passing through the restaurant and also with the nice paintings (the restaurant has expositions of Bulgarian artists). The food and the wines are very good, the service is quite attentive. They have also a nice bar to continue the evening ...

17 Al. Stamboliyski Blvd
+359 980 74 77
Google map: bit.ly/rU5YdS

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On arrival at either the main railway or bus station, or airport, march straight to the OK taxi desk for your trip to the city centre: They will give you the fair rate. Don't even think about responding to any of the touts you'll encounter.

On arrival

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Cheap luxury - top floor restaurant with panoramic views in the five-star Arena di Serdica hotel, worth going to if you fancy a bit of luxury for once and still don't want to break the bank. Superb service and food as you would expect from such a hotel and still comes out cheap. Unbelievably attentive and polite staff, most expensive main course was 25lv (£10).

Arena di Serdica Hotel, 2-4 Budapeshta Str. Sofia. (down steps from Moskovska Street)
www.arenadiserdica.com/en/restaurant-bar/

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