One of the most despotic regimes in the world, Burma offers a mix of fear, charm, and beauty. Tourists are welcomed, though they are generally channeled towards the most important sites. The Burmese themselves are unwilling to say much about their situation for fear of the ubiquitous police, and while the ruling generals are very wealthy, the Burmese people are desperately poor. Visitors are treated kindly if circumspectly; the Burmese never know who might be listening in on the conversation. The government even monitors e-mail. The only time a Burmese can speak openly is when he is traveling in a moving vehicle.

Here is an anecdote that somehow encapsulates the craziness. I had just arrived in Rangoon and was staying with a friend who worked there. I had a few dollars and he gave me a wad of Burmese currency (Kyats) and some suggestions on what to see. After spending my $5 on a visit to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, I decided to visit the National Museum. I handed the attendant five Burmese bills, but was told that they were not accepted; as a foreigner I had to provide dollars. So I took the Kyats over to a moneychanger, changed them back into a five-dollar bill, and was permitted entry.