
The bamboo train, some 10 miles into the countryside from Cambodia's second city of Battambang, is a journey you are unlikely to forget - ever. Whilst this part of the world is admittedly full of spectacular land journeys - from mountain ranges to rice fields - some of them are incredibly long and arduous. Not so the bamboo train. Ok, so its not exactly a comfortable journey as you trundle along the line at around 20kph - with every uneven join in the track unnervingly within close eye shot, but it is just a 20 minute or so round trip. Its function is for local farmers to transport goods between the small villages. Without this in place, people would have to wait about a week (the frequency of the standard train on this route) This was clearly not acceptable, and so, the bamboo train was born. I think it cost us about £5 per person for the ride. Massively expensive by local standards, but hey, the thrill as you fly past lush paddy fields, water buffalo and fishermen is only matched by the warm glow of goodwill you are left with, having done your bit to help the local community. I'm not sure how much the train costs to run or assemble (its size could be no more than about 10 x 6 foot) covered in bamboo slats - that'll be where the name comes from! One thing seems pretty certain however, given that we handed the money straight onto what I believe was the head of the village, a decent cut must surely be going to help the locals build a better life.
Whilst its not for the faint hearted, anyone who likes an adrenalin rush in the heart of the Cambodian countryside, along with a visit to a local village, relatively off the beaten track - and a chance to do your little bit for the local economy - give it a go - the bamboo train is a quirky experience to remember!
La Villa is a converted colonial house on Battambang riverfront converted lovingly by its owners, a French-Vietnamese couple, into a gorgeous boutique guesthouse and restaurant.
Free-standing bath tubs in the rooms, art deco fans and a really beautifully-done restaurant and bar area make this well worth the 50 USD a night or so rate.
Just be sure to arrive here by boat from Siem Reap (you'll feel you've earned a bit of luxury!) and take advantage of the Smokin' Pot cookery school nearby, one of the highlights of our Cambodia trip.
N 185 Pom Romchek 5 Kom
Rattanak Srok Battambang - Cambodia
Tél. :(855-53) 730 151
lavilla@online.com.kh
www.lavilla-battambang.com
I had great fun taking a day trip into the countryside near Battambang with a local moped driver. You can see a couple of sights - a killing field area and temple - but the best thing is just seeing the small villages and hearing a bit about how locals live. There's a crazy thing called the 'bamboo train', powered by outboard engines on the underused railway line that you can ride. A most unusual means of transport.
One of the Battambang hotels will set you up with a guide.
Learn Khmer cooking! Learn how to make fish amok or lok lak beef - all that yummy Khmer food. A visit to the local wet market is also included. Unlike Thailand, there are hardly any cookery schools in Cambodia. It's well worth visiting this one and it's a nice little restaurant too.
www.smokin-pot.com/index.html
No. 298, Group 8, 20 Ousephea Village, Svaypor Commune, Battambang District, Battambang Province (near Angkor Hotel)
Tel: +855-12-821400
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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