Been there | Phnom Penh Profile

Wat Ounalom, Phnom Penh
Photo: Ben Robson

Unforgettable

bRob

A hustling, bustling, choking, colourful, hot and strange place. Not at all what a first-timer to Cambodia would expect, which is what makes it so great and so eye-opening to everyone who visits. A city full of history, torture, class divisions and expats. A place you're not likely to soon forget.

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Best museum

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum

An old school was converted by the Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, into a torture and extermination camp. What remains are preserved holding cells, along with stories and pictures of the victims. Couple this with a visit to Choeung Ek, the burial place for the victims. Breakfast is probably best avoided.

Let a tuk-tuk or moto taxi driver take you to the two sites for around $5 per person. Toul Sleng is in the city centre, but Choeung Ek is miles out along hellish roads

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Best place to haggle

Central Market

One of Phnom Penh's better market complexes. Set around a run-down 1930's art-deco building, it has cheap bags, t-shirts, random souvenirs and food on sale; it's a great place to test out your bargaining skills.

Located near the Central Bus Station, you can't really miss it. Every taxi driver knows the location. Phsar Thmey is the Khmer name.

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Where to stay (moderate)

Lazy Fish Guesthouse

A cosy, friendly place on the edge of Boeung Kak Lake, pushed right to the end of a dirt road crammed full of backpacker's bars, restaurants and guesthouses. The perfect place to wind down after a hectic day's motorcycle taxiing, taking in the sunset from the veranda whilst chatting about travel, beer and home with other backpackers who seem to have been housed up here for their whole lives.

On the edge of Boeung Kak lake, to the north of the train station. Follow the path left as you come to the Mosque and keep going until you can't go any further.

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