A sanctuary of calm behind the royal palace, this is a great part of the city to while away a few hours or spend a relaxed evening. Nice artsy shops, a handful of cafes that wouldn't feel out of place in Marylebone and a couple of good restaurants, notably Tamarind with its charming roof terrace.

There's also a Seeing Hands blind massage place nearby which is recommended after an afternoon tramping round the Royal Palace.

Street 240, Phnom Penh

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Great staff makes you feel very welcome. The best selection of drinks I've seen in any hostess bar in Phnom Penh apart from DV8. Now it's the most popular bar on the street.

#25 street 104, Phnom Penh. www.phnomphennightlife.com

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This place is a mixed bag. It certainly has the best rooms out of the budget guesthouses along Boeng Kak Lake, and undoubtedly the best view of the sunset. A great place for a beer as the sun sets - only rivalled by the FCC. However, you must run the gauntlet of the Scotsman who runs the place (who is mad as a box of frogs) and his pack of growling dogs.

It's not for the faint-hearted, and Brian's mad jabber can get wearing, but it's definitely worth a visit. If only for the sunset.

Down the very end of the muddy track along the side of Boeng Kak Lake, past Same Same Guesthouse etc.

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Drinking, music, good times in a relaxed (and usually trouble free) environment. Try to ignore the old men with the obviously under age girls and you should have a good evening of drinking and dancing.

As with everything ask a local.

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If you've ever been stuck on the roof of a Cambodian boat with no sunscreen or hat, inhaling toxic exhaust fumes, and enduring this for over six hours, it's advisable to check into a hotel with air conditioning. A word of warning though: don't do what I did and check into the Walkabout Hotel.

Though it's close to a host of popular nightspots and has good amenities, the predatory working girls in the downstairs bar will not leave you alone. Unless you enjoy this sort of harassment, it's best to avoid the bar at all costs.

Corner of Streets 51 and 174

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Go at sunset, for the view of Wat Phnom from the back terrace, it's magical as the sun sets right behind it.

The food and drink is also some of the best in town.

www.fcccambodia.com/phnom_penh

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Cool bar in a developing street scene. Airconditioned and with a great lady to run it - pool table and happy staff. Drinks are varied and reasonably priced. Open from 4.00 till 2.00am [or later if the customers want to keep on].

#82, Street 108 Phnom Penh - just round the corner from Street 51

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A chilled out and cheap backpackers guesthouse built on a pier over Boeung Kak lake. Angkor beer on tap and hammocks in the lounge upstairs for lazing around in, internet access and food available too.

On Boeung Kak lake. Go to the mosque and continue down the dirt road, it's second to last on the right, the internet cafe out front is the entrance.

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