The places by the lake are backpackery, obsessed with drugs and Angkor beer. OK for a chilled-out day drinking and watching the lake, but paper-thin walls and minimal security did not make me feel safe.

I certainly wouldn't recommend it to lone women. If anything goes wrong (and it did with me) you will have absolutely no help whatsoever.

Capitol Guesthouse looks awful from the outside but on the inside it's scrupulously clean, has cable TV, private bathroom, air conditioning, good security (proper walls!) and all for about $8-10.

It also runs buses to Ho Chi Minh City, Siem Reap etc so it's very well located. You'll get off the backpackers trail just that little bit and experience much better levels of comfort, security and hygiene. And it's just round the corner from possibly one of the best and friendliest restaurants in Cambodia - Mama's.

Several locations across Phnom Penh. Well known - ask any moto driver. If you get the bus from HCMC or Siem Reap, chances are you'll be dropped off right outside!

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Far and away the best hostel in Phnom Penh. Run and owned by Cambodians, with a relaxed atmosphere, cool bars and happy pizza next door. The clientele were a nice bunch when I was there.

As the name suggests, the best thing about this place is that it is right on the lakeside - I spent many a happy hour swinging in a hammock watching Cambodian lake-life drift by.

Ask any motorcycle taxi guy to take you there. It'll be in your Lonely Planet too.

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The standard cost for a moto journey was 1500 riel in 2005.

Try not to pay more than 2000 riel for any single journey in the capital.

You can actually be quite hard nosed about it and say that you will not accept anything higher - as you know the going rate!

Phnom Penh

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The Boddhi Tree is a stylish, cosy guesthouse located opposite the Tuol Sleng genocide museum. Despite the location, it is a haven of peace with friendly staff and great food. The menu is unbeatable in Phnom Penh - breakfast, lunch and dinner are cooked fresh from local ingredients, all with a healthy, wholefood twist.
The rooms are all good value, and individually designed. Well worth the prices.
The small atmospheric terrace garden is good in the evenings for a drink or two.

Opposite the Tuol Sleng genocide museum

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