Psar Kandal Market in Phnom Penh, Cambodia:
narrow alleyways full of stalls crammed closely together, this is where the locals of Phnom Penh buy their food, rather than in shops and supermarkets. Cambodia is still a very poor country whose infrastructure has not yet recovered from the devastating Khmer rouge period, yet this open air market supplied food of a freshness and variety that surpasses Western food markets.
Banana flower, mini mangos, herb and spice stalls selling fresh galangal, ginger, chillies, turmeric; fish stalls with live fish in tanks and enormous aluminium basins full of squid and shellfish; egg stalls selling fresh and preserved eggs of all sizes and hues, meat and medicine and drink stalls. Everything was displayed beautifully in large baskets or on rattan mats.
As part of a small group attending a Cambodian cookery class, I was given a tour around and introduced to the ingredients I would be using later in the day, but you don’t have to be a foodie to appreciate the vitality of the place. Finish off by visiting one of the many cafes and small restaurants around the square.

Kandal Market near Wat Ounalom, Phnom Penh. Every morning.
Google map: bit.ly/f1pTmW
www.cambodia-cooking-class.com/

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A sanctuary of calm behind the royal palace, this is a great part of the city to while away a few hours or spend a relaxed evening. Nice artsy shops, a handful of cafes that wouldn't feel out of place in Marylebone and a couple of good restaurants, notably Tamarind with its charming roof terrace.

There's also a Seeing Hands blind massage place nearby which is recommended after an afternoon tramping round the Royal Palace.

Street 240, Phnom Penh

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The Central and Russian markets deserve an afternoon visit. With a vast array of goods from gold and silks to knick-knacks and locally grown food produce. Haggling is a must, but should always be done with a smile - a bit of very basic Khmer thrown in goes a long way.

Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung)
Central Market (Psah Thmei)

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This restaurant is very good. The frenetic pace of Phnom Penh’s roads can be left behind. With a style that is clean and modern, The Shop wouldn’t be out of place in any smart urban setting. There is a great Mediterranean menu offering frittatas, quiche, and delicious sandwiches. It also has a wonderful selection of fruit tarts, fresh breads and croissants.

The Shop: No.39, Street 240, 12006 PP
Tel: 023 986 964
Web: theshopcambodia.com
Email: theshop.cambodia@gmail

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There are still some very beautiful parts to PP for example, Street 240, with its galleries, lovely restaurants and tree lined colonial feel.

Steet 240

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There are still some very beautiful parts to PP. For example, Street 240, with its galleries, lovely restaurants and tree-lined colonial feel.

Steet 240

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Friends Restaurant is a non-profit restaurant run by former street children who are being provided with training. It's part of Mith Samlanh Friends, the Cambodian arm of Friends International. The food is good, the service is friendly, and your bill helps to fund Friends' charitable aims. Go to the shop and gallery while you're there.

House 215, Street 13, Phnom Penh
(+855) 12 802 072
www.streetfriends.org

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These are free publications with detailed listings of bars, restaurants, guesthouses, shops etc plus useful articles, maps and so forth. They are very handy for tourists and other newcomers to this rapidly changing city, where annually published guidebooks can be out of date almost as soon as they are published.

The guides are available at guesthouses, bars, restaurants and shops.

www.cambodiapocketguide.com

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A good places to shop for gifts, cheap essentials for more comfortable backpacking (sarongs, bamboo mats) and, erm, computer software. Be prepared to haggle good-naturedly for excellent bargains. Also great for cheap noodles and ice desserts.

South of central Phnom Penh,
Phsar Toul Tom Poung (streets 155 and 50)

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One of Phnom Penh's better market complexes. Set around a run-down 1930's art-deco building, it has cheap bags, t-shirts, random souvenirs and food on sale; it's a great place to test out your bargaining skills.

Located near the Central Bus Station, you can't really miss it. Every taxi driver knows the location. Phsar Thmey is the Khmer name.

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