Don't just 'do' Siem Reap in a day, take a bunch of photos and then shoot off to Thailand. Once you've seen one temple you've not seen them all, any guidebook will tell you that.

Take time, find a decent guesthouse and spend at least five days there. Hire a bike and pedal round, stopping at anything that catches your eye. A five-day pass costs 60$USD, it will be one of the best buys you'll make.

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Though most independent tourists hire a moto to take them round the ruins, if you're up to it hire a bicycle and head out in the delicious cool before sunrise.

It is quite a long ride (at least 40km there and back, including the distances between the temples), but you'll have the freedom to explore Angkor at your leisure without the heat, crowds and the pressure of knowing your driver is hanging around waiting for you. It'll also help you see the country more like the locals do, though remember never to venture off the main roads and tracks due to the landmine threat. Wear a krama to spare you the dust and sun.

Available to hire from several guesthouses for a couple of dollars per day.

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